NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

TO THE SHOB.ES OP THE

THE YEARS 1819-20-21-22.

JOHN FRANKLIN, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., M.W.S.,

AND COMMANDER Of THE EXPEntTfON.

PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL BATHURST.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.

LONDON:

l'KINTEl) BV WlI.MAM Cr.OWi:s,
Nortliiintbei-laud-CüHit.

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER VIII.

Page

Transactions at Port EnterpriseMr. Back's Narrative of his
Journey to Chipewyan, and Return - - l

CHAPTER IX.

Continuation of Procecdings at Fort EnterpriseSome Account
of the Copper IndiansPreparations for the Journey to the
Northward.........76

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Fort EnterpriseNavigation of the Copper-
Mine RiverVisit to the Copper MountainInterview with
the EsquimauxDeparture of the Indian HuntersAr-
rangements made with them for our return ... 122

CHAPTER XI.

Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as far as Cape
Turnagain, to the Eastward, a distance exceeding Five
Hundred and Fifty MilesObservations on the probability
of a North-West Passage......193

CHAPTER XII.

Page

Journey across the barren groundsDifficulty and delay in
crossing Copper-Mine RiverMelancholy and fatal Results
thereofExtreme Misery of the whole PartyMurder of
Mr. HoodDeath of several of the CanadiansDesolate
State of Fort EnterpriseDistress suffered at that Place
Dr. Richardson's NarrativeMr. Back's NarrativeCon-
clusion .....-- 237

Three CHARTS to be placed at the end of Volume II. in the follovv-
ing order:

I. Route from York Factory to Isle a la Grosse.
II. From Isle a la Grosse to Slave Lake.
III. From Slave Lake to the Arctic Sea.

JOUKNJEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER VIII.

Transactions at Port EnterpriseMr. Back's Narrative of his
Journey to Chipewyan and Return.

1820. DURING our little expedition to the
September. Copper-Mine River, Mr. Wentzel had
made great progress in the erection of our winter-
house, having nearly roofed it in. But before
proceeding to give an account of a ten months'
residence at this place, henceforth designated
Fort Enterprise, I may premise, that I shall omit
many of the ordinary occurrences of a North-
American winter, as they have been already de-
tailed in so able and interesting a manner by
Ellis*, and confine myself principally to the cir-

* Voyage to Hudson's Bay in the Dobbs and California.
Vot. II. B

2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

cumstances which had an influence on our pro-
gress on the ensuing summer. The observations
on the magnetic needie, the temperature of the
atmosphere, the Aurora Borealis, and other
meteorological phenomena, together with the
mineralogical and botanical notices, being less
interesting to the genera! reader, are omitted in
this edition.

The men continued to work diligently at the
house, and by the 30th of September had nearly
completed it for our reception, when a heavy fall
of rain washed the greater part of the mud off
the roof. This rain was remarked by the Indians
as unusual, after what they had deemed so de-
cided a commencement of winter in the early
part of the month. The mean temperature for
the month was 33f °,but the thermometer had sunk
as low as 16°, and on one occasion risen to 53°.

Besides the party constantly employed at the
house, two men were appointed to fish, and others
were occasionally sent for meat, as the hunters
procured it. This latter employment, although
extremely laborious, was always relished by the
Canadians, as they never failed to use a prescrip-
tive right of helping themselves to the fattest and
most delicate parts of the deer. Towards the
end of the month, the rein-deer began to quit the
barren grounds, and came into the vicinity of the

OP THE POLAR SEA. 3

house, on their way to the woods; and the success
of the hunters being consequently great, the ne-
cessity of sending for the meat considerably re-
tarded the building of the house. In the mean
time we resided in our canvass tents, which
proved very cold habitations, although we main-
tained a fire in front of them, and also endea-
voured to protect ourselves from the piercing
winds by a barricade of pine branches.

On the 6th of October, the house being com-
pleted, we struck our tents, and removed into it.
It was merely a log-building, fifty leet long, and
twenty-four wide, divided into a hall, three bed-
rooms, and a kitchen. The walls and roof were
plastered with clay, the floors laid with planks
rudely squared with the hatchet, and the windows
closed with parchment of deer-skin. The clay,
which, from the coldness of the weather, required
to be tempered before the fire with hot water,
froze as it was daubed on, and afterwards cracked
in such a manner as to admit the wind from every
quarter; yet, compared with the tents, our new
habitation appeared comfprtable; and having
filled our capacious clay-built chimney with fagots,
we spent a cheerful evening before the invigo-
rating blaze. The change was peculiarly bene-
ficial to Dr. Richardson, who, having, in one of
his excursions, incautiously laid down on the

B 2

4 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

frozen side of a hill when heated with walking,
had caught a severe inflammatory sore throat,
which became daily worse whilst we remained in
the tents, but began to mend soon after hè was
enabled to confine himself to the more equable
warmth of the house. We took up our abode at
first on the floor, but our working party, who had
shewn such skill as house-carpenters, soon proved
themselves to be, with the same tools, (the hatchet
and crooked knife,) excellent cabinet-makers, and
daily added a table, chair, or bedstead, to the
comforts of our establishment. The crooked
knife, generally made of an old file, bent and
tempered by heat, serves an Indian or Canadian
voyager for plane, chisel, and auger. With it
the snow-shoe and canoe-timbers are fashioned,
the deals of their sledges reduced to the requisite
thinness and polish, and their wooden bowls and
spoons hollowed out. Indeed, though not quite so
requisite for existence as the hatchet, yet without
its aid there would be little comfort in these wilds.
On the 7th we were gratified by a sight of the
sun, after it had been obscured for twelve days.
On this and several following days the meridian
sun melted the light covering of snow or hoar
frost on the lichens, which clothe the barren
grounds, and rendered them so tender as to at-
tract great herds of rein-deer to our neighbour-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 5

hood. On the morning of the l Oth I estimated the
numbers I saw during a short walk, at upwards of
two thousand. They form into herds of different
sizes, from ten to a hundred, according as their
fears or accident induce them to unite or separate.
The females being at this time more lean and
active, usually lead the van. The haunches of
the males are how covered to the depth of two
inches or more with fat which is beginning to
get red and high flavoured, and is considered a
sure indication of the commencement of the
rutting season. Their horns, which in the middle
of August were yet tender, have now attained
their proper size, and are beginning to lose their
hairy covering which hangs from them in ragged
filaments. The horns of the rein-deer vary, not
only with its sex and age, but are otherwise so
uncertain in their growth, that they are never
alike in any two individuals. The old males
shed their's about the end of December; the fe-
males retain them until the disappearance of the
snow enables them to frequent the barren grounds,
which may be stated to be about the middle or
end of May, soon after which period they proceed
towards the sea-coast and drop their young.
The young males lose their horns about the same
time with the females or a little earlier, some of
them as early as April. The hair of the rein-

6 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

deer falls in July, and is succeeded by a short
thick coat of mingled clove, deep reddish, and
yellowish, browns; the belly and under parts of
the neck, $*c., remaining white. As the winter
approaches the hair becomes longer, and lighter
in its colours, and it begins to loosen in May,
being then much worn on the sides, from the
animal rubbing itself against trees and stones.
It becomes grayish and almost white, before it is
completely shed. The Indians form their robes
of the skins procured in autumn, when the hair is
short. Towards the spring the larvee of the
restrus attaining a large size, produce so many
perforations in the skins, that they are good for
nothing. The cicatrices only of these holes are
to be seen in August, but a fresh set of ova have
in the mean time been deposited*.

The rein-deer retire from the sea-coast in July
and August, rut in October on the verge of the
barren grounds, and shelter themselves in the
woods during the winter. They are often in-
duced by a few fine days in winter, to pay atran-

* "It is worthy of remark, that in the month of May a very
great number of large larvse exist under the mucous inembrane at
the root of the tongue, and posterior part of the nares and pharynx.
The Indians consider them to belong to the saine species with the
cestrus, that deposits its ova under the skin ; to us the larvse of the
former appeared more flattened than those of the latter. Specimens
of both kinds, preserved in spirits, were destroyed by the frequent
falls they received on the portages."DR. RICHARDSON'S Journal.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 7

sitory visit to their favourite pastures in the
barren country, but their principal movement to
the northward commences generally in the end
of April, when the snow first begins to melt on
the sides of the huls, and early in May, when
large patches of the ground are visible, they are
on the banks of the Copper-Mine River. The
females take the lead in this spring migration,
and bring forth their young on the sea-coast about
the end of May or beginning of June. There are
certain spots or passes well knownto the Indians,
through which the deer invariably pass in their
migrations to and from the coast, and it has been
observed that they always travel against the wind.
The principal food of the rein-deer in the barren
grounds, consists of the cetraria nivalis and cu-
cullata, cenomyce rangiferina, cornicularia ochri-
leuca, and other lichens, and they also eat the
hay or dry grass which is found in the swamps in
autumn. In the woods they feed on the different
lichens which hang from the trees. They are
accustomed to gnaw their fallen antlers, and are
said also to devour mice.

The weight of a full grown barren-ground deer,
exclusive of the oflal, varies from ninety to one
hundred and thirty pounds. There is, however,
a much larger kind found in the woody parts of
the country, whose carcass weighs from two hun-

8 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

dred to two hundred and forty pounds. This
kind never leaves the woods, but its skin is as
much perforated by the gad-fly as that of the
others; a presumptive proof that the smaller
species are not driven to the sea-coast solely by
the attacks of that insect. There are a few rein-
deer occasionally killed in the spring, whose
skins are entire, and these are always fat, whereas
the others are lean at that season. This insect
likewise infests the red-deer (wawasJceesh,) but
its ova are not found in the skin of the moose,
or buffalo, nor, as we have been informed, of the
sheep and goat that inhabit the Rocky Mountains,
although the rein-deer found inthose parts,(which,
by the way, are of an unusually large kind,) are
as much tormented by them as the barren-ground
variety.

The herds of rein-deer are attended in their
migrations by bands of wolves, which destroy a
great many of them. The Copper Indians kill
the rein-deer in the summer with the gun, or
taking advantage of a favourable disposition of
the ground, they enclose a herd upon a neck of
land, and drive them into a lake, where they fall
an easy prey ; but in the rutting season and in
the spring, when they are numerous on the skirts
of the woods, they catch them in snares. The
snares are simple nooses, formed in a rope made

OP THE POLAR SEA. 9

of twisted sinew, which are placed in the aper-
ture of a slight hedge, constructed of the branches
of trees. This hedge is disposed so as to form
several winding compartments, aud although it is
by no means strong, yet the deer seldom attempt
to break through it. The herd is led into the
labyrinth by two converging rows of poles, and
one is generally caught at each of the openings
by the noose placed there. The hunter, too,
lying in ambush, stabs some of them with his
bayonet as they pass by, and the whole herd fre-
quently becomes his prey. Where wood is scarce,
a piece of turf turned up answers the purpose of
a pole to conduct them towards the snares.

The rein-deer has a quick eye, but the hunter
by keeping to leeward and using a little caution,
may approach very near; their apprehensions
being much more easily roused by the smell than
the sight of any unusual object. Indeed their
curiosity often causes them to come close up to
and wheel around the hunter; thus affording him
a good opportunity of singling out the fattest of
the herd, and upon these occasions they often
become so confused by the shouts and gestures
of their enemy, that they run backwards and for-
wards with great rapidity, but without the power
of making their escape.

10 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The Copper Indians find by experience that a
white dress attracts them most readily, and they
often succeed in bringing them within shot, by
kneeling and vibrating the gun from side to side,
in imitation of the motion of a deer's horns when
hè is in the act of rubbing his head against a stone.

The Dog-Rib Indians have a mode of killing
these animals, which though simple, is very suc-
cessful. It was thus described by Mr. Wentzel,
who resided long amongst that people. The
hunters go in pairs, the foremost man carrying in
one hand the horns and part of the skin of the
head of a deer, and in the other a small bundie of
twigs, against which hè, from time to time, rubs
the horns, imitating the gestures peculiar to the
animal. His comrade follows treading exactly
in his footsteps, and holding the guns of both in
a horizontal position, so that the muzzles project
under the arms of him who carries the head.
Both hunters have a fillet of white skin round
their foreheads, and the foremost has a strip of
the same kind round his wrists. They approach
the herd by degrees, raising their legs very
slowly, but setting them down somewhat sud-
denly, after the marmer of a deer, and always
taking care to lift their right or left feet simultane-
ously. If any of the herd leave off feeding to

OF THE POLAR SEA. 11

gaze upon this extraordinary phenomenon, it
instantly stops, and the head begins to play its
part by licking its shoulders, and performing
other necessary movements. In this way the
hunters attain the very centre of the herd without
exciting suspicion, and have leisure to single out
the fattest. The hindmost man then pushes for-
ward his comrade's gun, the head is dropt, and
they both fire nearly at the same instant. The
herd scampers off, the hunters trot after them ;
in a short time the poor animals halt to ascertain
the cause of their terror, their foes stop at the
same instant, and having loaded as they ran,
greet the gazers with a second fatal discharge.
The consternation of the deer increases, they run
to and fro in the utmost confusion, and sometimes
a great part of the herd is destroyed within the
space of a few hundred yards.

A party who had been sent to Akaitcho return-
ed, bringing three hundred and seventy pounds
of dried meat, and two hundred and twenty
pounds of suet, together with the unpleasant in-
formation, that a still larger quantity of the latter
article had been found and carried off, as hè sup-
posed,bysomeDog-ribs, who had passed that way.

The weather becoming daily colder, all the
lakes in the neighbourhood of the house were
completely, and the river partially, frozen over

12 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

by the middle of the month. The rein-deer now
began to quit us for more southerly and better-
sheltered pastures. Indeed, their longer resi-
dence in our neighbourhood would have been of
little service to us, for our ammunition was al-
most completely expended, although we had
dealt it of late with a very sparing hand to the
Indians. We had, however, already secured in
the store-house the carcasses of one hundred
deer, together with one thousand pounds of suet,
and some dried meat; and had, moreover, eighty
deer stowed up at various distances from the
house. The necessity of employing the men to
build a house for themselves, before the weather
became too severe, obliged us to put the latter en
cache, as the voyagers term it, instead of adopting
the more safe plan of bringing them to the house.
Putting a deer en cache, means merely protect-
ing it against the wolves, and still more destruc-
tive wolverenes, by heavy loads of wood or stones;
the latter animal, however, sometimes digs under-
neath the pile,and renders the precaution abortive.
On the 18th, Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel set
out for Fort Providence, accompanied by Beau-
parlant, Belanger, and two Indians, Akaiyazza
and Thoolezzeh, with their wives, the Little Fore-
head, and the Smiling Marten. Mr. Back had
volunteered to go and make the necessary ar-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 13

rangements for transporting the stores we ex-
pected from Cumberland House, and to endea-
vour to obtain some additional supplies from the
establishments at Slave Lake. If any accident
should have prevented the arrival of our stores,
and the establishments at Moose-Deer Island
should be unable to supply the deficiency, hè
was, if hè found himself equal to the task, to pro-
ceed to Chipewyan. Ammunition was essential
to our existence, and a considerable supply of
tobacco was also requisite, not only for the com-
fort of the Canadians, who use it largely, and had
stipulated for it in their engagements, but also as
a means of preserving the friendship of the In-
dians. Blankets, cloth, and iron-work, were
scarcely less indispensable to equip our men for
the advance next season.

Mr. Wentzel accompanied Mr. Back, to assist
him in obtaining from the traders, on the score of
old friendship, that which they might be inclined
to deny to our necessities. I forwarded by them
letters to the Colonial Office and Admiralty, de-
tailing the proceedings of the Expedition up to
this period.

On the 22d we were surprised by a visit from
a dog; the poor animal was in low condition,
and much fatigued. Our Indians discovered, by
marks on his ears, that hè belonged to the Dog-

14 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ribs. This tribe, unlike the Chipewyans and
Copper Indians, had preserved that usefül as-
sociate of man, although from their frequent in-
tercourse with the latter people, they were not
ignorant of the prediction alluded to in a former
page. One of our interpreters was immediately
despatched, with an Indian, to endeavour to tracé
out the Dog-ribs, whom hè supposed might be
concealed in the neighbourhood from their dread
of the Copper Indians ; although we had no doubt
of their coming to us, were they aware of our
being her e. The interpreter, however, returned
without having discovered any traces of strange
Indians; a circumstance which led us to con-
clude, that the dog had strayed from his masters
a considerable time since.

Towards the end of the month the men com-
pleted their house, and took up their abode in it.
It was thirty-four feet long and eighteen feet wide;
was divided into two apartments, and was placed
at right angles to the officers' dwelling, and facing
the store-house: the three buildings formingthree
sides of a quadrangle.

On the 26th Akaitcho and his party arrived,

the hunting in this neighbourhood being termi-

nated forthe season, by the deer having retired to

the southward to shelter themselves in the woods.

The arrival of this large party was a serieus

OP THE POLAR SEA. 15

inconvenience to us, from our being compelled tö
issue them daily rations of provision from the
store. The want of ammunition prevented us
from equipping and sending them to the woods to
hunt; and although they are accustomed to sub-
sist themselves for a considerable part of the
year by fishing, or snaring the deer, without hav-
ing recours e to fire-arms, yet, on the present
occasion, they feit little inclined to do so, and
gave scope to their natural love of ease, as long
as our store-house seemed to be well stocked.
Nevertheless, as they were conscious of impair-
ing our future resources, they did not fail, oc-
casionally, to remind us that it was not their
fault, to express an ardent desire to go a hunting,
and to request a supply of ammunition, although
they knew that it was not in our power to give it.

The summer hink by this time had entirely
deserted us, leaving, for our winter companions,
the raven, cinereous crow, ptarmigan, and snow-
bird. The last of the water-fowl that quitted us
was a species of diver, of the same size with the
colymbus arcticus, but differing from it in the ar-
rangement of the white spots on its plumage,
and in having a yellowish white bul. This bird
was occasionally caught in our fishing nets.

The thermometer during the month of October,
at Fort Enterprise, never rose above 37°, or feil

16 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

below5°; the^mean temperature for the month
was 23°.

In the beginning of October a party had been
sent to the westward to search for birch to make
snow-shoe frames, and the Indian women were
afterwards employed in netting the shoes and
preparing leather for winter-clothing to the men.
Robes of rein-deer skins were also obtained from
the Indians, and issued to the men who were to
travel, as they are not only a great deal lighter
than blankets, but also much warmer, and alto-
gether better adapted for a winter in this climate.
They are, however, unfit for summer use, as the
least moisture causes the skin to spoil, and lose
its hair. It requires the skins of seven deer to
make one robe. The finest are made of the skins
of young fawns.

The fishing, having failed as the weather be-
came more severe, was given up on the Sth. It
had procured us about one thousand two hundred
white fish, from two to three pounds each. There
are two other species of Coregoni in Winter
Lake, Back's grayling and the roundfish ; and a
few trout, pike, methye, and red carp, were also
occasionally obtained from the nets. It may be
worthy of notice here, that the fish froze as they
were taken out of "the nets, in a short time be-
came a solid mass of ice, and by a blow or two

OP THE POLAR SEA. 17

of the hatchet were easily split open, when the
intestines might be removed in one lump. If in
this completely frozen state they were thawed
before the ure, they recovered their animation.
This was particularly the case with the carp,
and we had occasion to observe it repeatedly, as
Dr. Richardson occupied himself in examining
the structure of the different species of fish, and
was always, in the winter, under the necessity of
thawing them before hè could cut them. We
have seen a carp recover so far as to leap about
with much vigour, after it had been frozen for
thirty-six hours.

From the 12th to the 16th we had fine, and for
the season, warm weather; and the deer, which
had not been seen since the 26th of October, re-
appeared in the neighbourhood of the house, to
the surprise of the Indians, who attributed their
return to the barren grounds, to the unusual mild-
ness of the season. On this occasion, by melting
some of our pewter cups, we managed to furnish
five balls to each of the hunters, but they were
all expended unsuccessfully, except by Akaitcho,
who killed two deer.

By the middle of the month Winter River was
firmly frozen over, except the small rapid at its
commencement, which remained open all the
winter. The ice on the lake was now nearly two

VOL. II. C

18 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

feet thick. After the 16th we had a succession
of cold, snowy, and windy weather. We had
become anxious to hear of the arrival of Mr.
Back and his party at Fort Providence. The
Indians, who had calculated the period at which
a messenger ought to have returned from thence
to be already passed, became impatient when it
had elapsed, and with their usual love of evil
augury tormented us by their melancholy fore-
bodings. At one time they conjectured that the
whole party had fallen through the ice; at another,
that they had been way-laid and cut off by the
Dog-ribs, In vain did we urge the improbability
of the former accident, or the peaceable character
of the Dog-ribs, so little in conformity with the
latter. " The ice at this season was deceitful,"
they said, " and the Dog-ribs, though unwarlike,
were treacherous." These assertions, so ofteri
repeated, had some effect upon the spirits of our
Canadian voyagers, who seldom weigh any
opinion they adopt; but we persisted in treating
their fears as chimerical, for had we seemed to
listen to them for a moment, it is more than pro-
bable that the whole of our Indians would have
gone to Fort Providence in search of supplies,
frorn whence we should have found it extremely
difficult to have recovered them.
The matter was put to rest by the appearance

OP THE POLAR SEA. 19

of Belanger on the morning of the 23d, and the
Indians, now running into the opposite extreme,
were disposed to give us more credit for our
judgment than we deserved. They had had a
tedious and fatiguing journey to Fort Providence,
and for some days were destitute of provisions.

Belanger arrived alone; hè had walked con-
stantly for the last six-and-thirty hours, leaving
his Indian companions encamped at the last
woods, they being unwilling to accompany him
across the barren grounds during the storm that
had prevailed for several days, and blew with
unusual violence on the morning of his arrival.
His locks were matted with snow, and hè was
incrusted with ice from head to foot, so that we
scarcely recognised him when hè burst in upon
us. We welcomed him with the usual shake of
the hand, but were unable to give him the glass
of rum which every voyager receives on his
arrival at a trading post.

As soon as his packet was thawed, we eagerly
opened it to obtain our English letters. The
latest were dated on the preceding April, They
came by way of Canada, and were brought up
in September to Slave Lake by the North-West
Company's canoes.

We were not so fortunate with regard to our
stores ; of ten pieces, or bales of 901bs. weight,

SO JOURNEY TÖ THE SHORES

which had been sent from York Factory by
Governor Williams, five of the most essential
had been left at the Grand Rapid on the Saskat-
chawan, owing, as far as we could judge from.
the accounts that reached us, to the misconduct
of the officer to whom they were intrusted, and
who was ordered to convey them to Cumberland-
House. Being overtaken by some of the North-
West Company's canoes, hè had insisted on their
taking half of his charge as it was intended for
the service of Government. The North-West gen-
tlemen objected, that their canoes had already got
a cargo in, and that they had been requested to
convey our stores from Cumberland-House only,
where they had a canoe waiting for the purpose.
The Hudson's-Bay officer upon this deposited
our ammunition and tobacco upon the beach,
and departed without any regard .to the serious
consequences that might result to us from the
want of them. The Indians, who assembled at
the opening of the packet, and sat in silence
watching our countenances, were necessarily
made acquainted with the non-arrival of our
stores, and bore the intelligence with unex-
pected tranquillity. We took care, however, in
our Communications with them to dweil upon the
more agreeable parts of our intelligence, and they
seemed to receive particular pleasure on being

OF THE POLAR SEA. 21

infbrmed of the arrival of two Esquimaux inter-
preters at Slave Lake on their way to join the
party. The circumstance not only quieted their
fears of opposition from the Esquimaux on our
descent to the sea next season, but also afforded
a substantial proof of our influence in being able
to bring two people of that nation from such a
distance.

Akaitcho, who is a man of great penetration
and shrewdness, duly appreciated these circum-
stances; indeed hè has often surprised us by his
correct judgment of the character of individuals
amongst the traders or of our own party, although
his knowledge of their opinions was, in most
instances, obtained through the imperfect medium
of interpretation. He was an attentive observer,
however, of every action, and steadily compared
their conduct with their pretensions.

By the newspapers we learned the demise of
our revered and lamented sovereign George III.,
and the proclamation of George IV. We con
cealed this intelligence from the Indians, lest the
death of their great Father might lead them to
suppose that we should be unable to fulfil our
promises to them.

The Indians who had left Fort Providence with
Belanger arrived the day after him, and, amongst
other intelligence, informed Akaitcho of some

23 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

reports they had heard tö our disadvantage.
They stated that Mr. Weeks, the gentleman in
charge of Fort Providence, had told them, that
so far from our being what we represënted our-
selves to be, the officers of a great King, we were
merely a set of dependant wretches, whose oiily
aim was to obtain subsistence for a season in the
plentiful country of the Copper Indians; that, out
of charity, we had been supplied with a portion
of goods by the trading Companies, but that
there was not the smallest probability of our
being able to reward the Indians when their
term of service was completed. Akaitcho, With
great good sense, instantly came to have the
matter explained, stating at the same time, that
hè could not credit it. I then poihted out to him
that Mr. Wentzel, with whom they had long been
accustomed to trade, had pledged the credit of
his Company for the stipulated rewards to the
party that aecompanied us, and that the trading
debts due by Akaitcho and his party had already
been remitted, which was of itself a sufficient
proof of our influence with the North-West Com-
pany. I also reminded Akaitcho, that our having
caused the Esquimaux to be brought up at a
great expense, was evidence of our future inten-
tions, and informed him that I should write to
Mr. Smith, the senior trader in the department,

OP THE POLAR SEA. 23

on the subject, when I had no doubt that a satis-
factory explanation would be given. The Indians
retired from the conference apparently satisfied,
but this business was in the end productive of
much inconvenience to us, and proved very de-
trimental to the progress of the Expedition. In
conjunction also with other intelligence conveyed
in Mr. Back's letters respecting the disposition
of the traders towards us, particularly a state-
ment of Mr. Weeks, that hè had been desired
not to assist us with supplies from his post, it
was productive of much present uneasiness to
me.

On the 28th St..Germain, the interprater, set
out with eight Canadian voyagers and four In-
dian hunters to bring up our stores from Fort
Providence. I wrote by him to Mr. Smith, at
Moose-Deer Island, and Mr. Keith, at Chipe-
wyan, both of the North-West Company, urging
them in the strongest manner to comply with the
requisition for stores, which Mr. Back would pre-
sent. I also informed Mr. Simpson, principal
agent in the Athabasca for the Hudson's Bay
Company, who had proflèred every assistance in
his power, that we should gladly avail ourselves
of the kind intentions expressed in a letter which
I had received from him.

We also sent a number of broken axes to

24 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Slave Lake to be repaired. The dog that came
to us on the 22d of October, and had become
very familiar, followed the party. We were in
hopes that it might prove of some use in drag-
ging their loads, but we afterwards learned, that
on the evening after their departure from the
house, they had the cruelty to kill and eat it,
although they had no reason to apprehend a
scarcity of provision. A dog is considered to be
delicate eating by the voyagers.

Themean temperature of the air for November
was 0°.7. The greatest heat observed was
25° above, and the least 31° below, zero.

On the Ist of December the sky was clear, a
slight appearance of stratus only being visible
near the horizon ; but a kind of snow feil at in-
tervals in the forenoon, its particles so minute as
to be observed only in the sunshine. Towards
noon the snow became more apparent, and the
two limbs of a prismatic arch were visible, one
on each side of the sun near its place in the
heavens, the centre being deficiënt. We have
frequently observed this descent of minute icy
spiculse when the sky appears perfectly clear,
and could even perceive that its silent but con-
tinued action, added to the snowy covering of
the ground.

Having received one hundred balls from Fort

OF THE POLAR SEA. 25

Providence by Belanger, we distributed them
amongst the Indians, iuforming the leader at the
same time, that the residence of so large a party
as his at the house, amounting, with women and
children, to forty souls, was producing a serious
reduction in our stock of provision. He acknow-
ledged the justice of the statement, and promised
to remove as soon as his party had prepared
snow-shoes and sledges for themselves. Under
one pretext or other, however, their departure was
delayed until the lOth of the month, when they
left us, having previously recezved one of our fish-
ing-nets, and all the. ammunition we possessed.
The leader left his aged mother and two female
attendants to our care, requesting that if she died
during his absence, she might be buried at a dis-
tance from the fort, that hè might not be reminded
of his loss when hè visited us.

Keskarrah, the guide, also remained behind,
with his wife and daughter. The old man has
become too feeble to hunt, and his time is almost
entirely occupied in attendance upon his wife,
who has been long affected with an ulcer on the
face, which has nearly destroyed her nose.

Lately hè made an offering to the water spirits,
whose wrath hè apprehended to be the cause of her
malady. It consisted of a knife, a piece of tobacco,
and some other trifling articles, which were tied

SR JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

up in a small bundie, and committed to the rapid
with a long prayer. He does not trust entirely,
however, to the relenting of the spirits for his
wife's cüre, but comes daily to Dr. Richardson
for medicine.

Upon one occasion hè received the medicine
from the Doctor with such formality, and wrapped
it up in his rein-deer robe with such extraordinary
carefulness, that it excited the involuntary laugh-
ter of Mr. Hood and myself. The old man smiled
in his turn, and as hè always seemed proud of the
familiar way in which we were accustomed to
joke with him, we thought no more upon the sub-
ject. But hè unfortunately mentioned the cir-
cümstance to his wife, who imagined in conse-
quence, that the drug was not productive of its
usual good effects, and they immediately came to
the conclusion that some bad medicine had been
intentionally given to them. The distress pro-
duced by this idea, was in proportion to their
former faith in the potency of the remedy, and the
night was spent in singing and groaning. Next
morning the whole family were crying in concert,
and it was not until the evening of the second
day that we succeeded in pacifying them. The
old woman began to feel better, and her faith in
the medicine was renewed.

While speaking of this family, I may remark

OF THE POLAR SEA. 2?

that the daughter, whoffl we designated Green-
stockings from her dress, is considered by her
tribe to be a great beauty. Mr. Hood drew an
accurate portrait of her, although her mother Was
averse to her sitting for it. She was afraid, she
said, that her daughter's likeness would induce
the great Chief who resided in England to send
for the origihal. The young lady, however, was
undeterred by any such fear. She has already
been an object of contëst between her country-
men, and although under sixteen years of age,
has belonged successively to two husbands, and
would probably have been the wife of many more,
if her mother had not required her services as a
nurse.

The weather during this month, was the coldest
we experienced during our residence in America.
The thermometer sunk on one occasion to 57°
below zero, and nevef rose beyond 6° above it;
the mean for the month was 29°. 7. During
these intense colds, however, the atmosphere was
generally calm, and the wood-cutters and others
went about their ordinary occupations without
using any extraördinary precautions, yet without
feeling any bad effects. They had their rein-deer
shirts on, leathern mittens lined with blarikets,
and furred caps ; but none of them used any de-
fence for the face, nor did they need to do so.

28 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Indeed we have already mentioned that the heat
is abstracted most rapidly from the body during
strong breezes, and most of those who have pe-
rished from cold in this country, have fallen a
sacrifice to their being overtaken on a lake or
other unsheltered place, by a storm of wind. The
intense colds, were, however, detrimental to us in
another way. The trees froze to their very een-
tres, and became as hard as stones, and more dif-
cult to cut. Some of the axes were broken daily,
and by the end of the month we had only one left
that was fit for felling trees. By intrusting it orüy
to one of the party who had been bred a carpen-
ter, and who could use it with dexterity, it was
fortunately preserved untü the arrival of our men
with others from Fort Providence.

A thermometer, hung in our bed-room at the
distance of sixteen feet from the fire, but ex-
posed to its direct radiation, stood even in the
day-time occasionally at 15° below zero, and was
observed more than once previous to the kindling
of the fire in the morning, to be as low as 40°
below zero. On two of these occasions the chro-
nometers 2149 and 2151, which during the night
lay under Mr. Hood's and Dr. Richardson's
pillows, stopped whüe they were dressing them-
selves.
The rapid at the commencement of the river

OP THE POLAR SEA. 29

remained open in the severest weather, although
it was somewhat contracted in width. lts tem-
perature was 32°, as was the surface of the river
opposite the house, about a quarter of a mile
lower down, tried at a hole in the ice, through
which water was drawn for domestic purposes.
The river here was two fathoms and a half deep,
and the temperature at its bottom was at least
42° above zero. This fact was ascertained by a
spirit thermometer; in which, probably, from
some irregularity in the tube, a small portion of
the coloured liquor usually remained at 42° when
the column was made to descend rapidly. In the
present instance the thermometer standing at 47°
below zero, with no portion of the fluid in the
upper part of the tube, was let down slowly into
the water, but drawn cautiously and rapidly up
again, when a red drop at + 42° indicated that
the fluid had risen to that point or above it. At
this period the daily visits of the sun were very
short, and owing to the obliquity of his rays,
afforded us little warmth or light. It is half past
eleven before hè peeps over a small ridge of hills
opposite to the house, and hè sinks in the horizon
at half past two. On the 28th Mr. Hood, in
order to attain an approximation to the quantity
of terrestrial refraction, observed the sun's meri-

30 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

dional altitude when the thermometer stood at 46°
below zero, at the imminent hazard of having his
fingers frozen.

He found the sextant had changed its error
considerably, and that the glasses had lost their
parallelism from the contraction of the brass. In
measuring the error hè perceived that the di-
ameter of the sun's image was considerably short
of twice the semi-diameter ; a proof of the uncer-
tainty of celestial observations made during these
intense frosts. The results of this and another
similar observation are given at the bottom of
the page*.

* " The observed meridian altitude of © upper limb was 2° &%
51". Temperature of the air 45° 5'. By comparing¹ this altitude,
corrected by the mean refraction and parallax, with that deduced
from the latitude which was observed in autumn, the increase of re-
fraction is found to be 6' 50", the whole refraction, therefore, for the
altitude 2° 52' 51" is 21' 49". Admitting that the refraction in-
creases in the same ratio as that of the atmosphere at a mean state
of temperature, the horizontal refraction will be 47' 22". But the
diameter of the sun measured iminediately after the obseryation, was
only 27' 7", which shews an increase of refraction at the lower limb
of 3' 29". The horizontal refraction calculated with this diflference,
and the above-mentioned ratio, is 56' S', at the temperature 45°
5'. So that in the parallel 68° 42', where if there was no refraction,
the sun would be invisible for thirty-four days, his upper limb, with
the refraction 56' 3", is, in fact, above the horizon at every noon.

The wind was from the westward a moderate breeze, and the air
perfectly clear. January Ist, 1821. Observed meridian altitude of
O lower limb 2° 35' 2O". Q apparent diameter 29° 20'. For ap-
parent altitude 2° 35' 20", the mean refraction is 16' 5" (Mackay's
Tables), and the true, found as detailed above, is 29 8": which in-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 31

The aurora appeared with more or less bril-
liancy on twenty-eight nights in this month, and
we were also gratified by the resplendent beauty
of the moon, which for many days together per-
formed its circle round the heavens, shining with
undiminished lustre, and scarcely disappearing
below the horizon during the twenty-four hours.

During many nights there was a halo round
the moon, although the stars shone brightly, and
the atmosphere appeared otherwise clear. The
same phenemenon was observed round the ean-
dles, even in our bed-rooms; the diameter of the
halo increasing as the observer receded from the

creasing' in the same ratio as that of the atmosphere, at a mean state
of temperature, is 4)' 19" at the horizon. But the difference of re-
fraction at the upper and lower limhs, increasing also in that ratio,
gives 55' 16" forthe horizontal refraction. Temperature of the air
41°. Wind north, a %ht breeze, a large halo visible about the sun.
January 15th, 1821.Observed an apparent meridian altitude O
lower limb 4° 24' 57". O apparent diameter 31' 5". Por apparent
altitude 4° 24' 57', the mean refraction is Itf 58" (Mackay's Tables),
and the true, found as detailed above, is 14' 39'', which, increasingin
the same ratio as that of the atmosphere at a mean state of tempera-
ture, is 43' 57'' at the horizon. But the difference of refraction be-
tween the upper and lower limbs increasing also in that ratio, gives
48' 30'' for the horizontal refraction.

Temperature of the air 35°, a light air from the westward, very
clear.

The extreme coldness of the weather rendered these operations
difficult and dangerous ; yet I think the observations may be de-
pended upon within 30", as will appear by their approximate results
in calculating the horizontal refraction ; for it must be considered
that an error of 30", in the refraction in altitude, would make a dif-
ference of several minutes in the horizontal refraction."MR.
HOOD'S Journal,

32 JOURNBY TO THE SHORES

light. These halos, both round the moon and
candles, occasionally exhibited faintly some of
the prismatic colours.

As it may be interesting to the reader to know
how we passed our time at this season of the
year, I shall mention briefly, that a considerable
portion of it was occupied in writing up our
journals. Some newspapers and magazines,
that we had received from England with our
letters, were read again and again, and com-
mented upon, at our meals; and we often exer-
cised ourselves with conjecturing the changes that
might take place in the world before we could
hear from it again. The probability of our re-
ceiving letters, and the period of their arrival,
were calculated to a nicety. We occasionally
paid the woodmen a visit, or took a walk for a
mile or two on the river.

In the evenings we joined the men in the hall,
and took a part in their games, which generally
continued to a late hour; in short, we never found
the time to hang heavy upon our hands; and the
peculiar occupations of each of the officers afforded
them more employment than might at first be
supposed. I re-calculated the observations made
on our route; Mr. Hood protracted the charts,
and made those drawings of birds, plants, and
fishes, which cannot appear in this work, but

OP THE POLAR SEA. 33

which have been the admiration of every one
who has seen them. Each of the party sedu-
lously and separately recorded their observations
on the aurora; and Dr. Richardson contrived to
obtain from under the snow, specimens of most of
the lichens in the neighbourhood, and to make
himself acquainted with the mineralogy of the
surrounding country-.

The Sabbath was always a day of rest with
us; the woodmen were required to provide for the
exigences of that day on Saturday, and the party
were dressed in their best attire. Divine service
was regularly performed, and the Canadians
attended, and behaved with great decorum, al-
though they were all Roman Catholics, and but
little acquainted with the language in which the
prayers were read. I regretted much that we
had not a French Prayer-Book, but the Lord's
Prayer and Creed were always read to them in
their own language.

Our diet consisted almost entirely of rein-deer
meat, varied twice a week by fish, and occa-
sionally by a little flour, but we had no vegetables
of any description. On the Sunday mornings we
drank a cup of chocolate, but our greatest luxury
was tea (without sugar), of which we regularly
partook twice a-day. With rein-deer's fat, and
strips of cotton shirts, we formed candles; and

VOL. H. D

.34 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Hepburn acquired considerable skill in the manu-
facture of soap, from the wood-ashes, fat, and salt.
The fbrmation of soap was considered as rather
a mysterieus operation by our Canadians, and,
in their hands, was always supposed to fail if a
woman approached the kettle in which the ley
was boiling. Such are our simple domestic
details.

On the 30th, two hunters came from the leader,
to convey ammunition to him, as soon as OUT men
should bring it from Fort Providence.

The men, at this time, coated the walls of the
house on the outside, with a thin mixture of clay
and water, which formed a crust of ice, that, for
some days, proved impervious to the air; the
dryness of the atmosphere, however, was such,
that the ice in a short time evaporated, and gave
admission to the wind as before. It is a genera!
custom at the forts to give this sort of coating to
the walls at Christmas time. When it was gone,
we attempted to remedy its defect, by heaping
up snow against the walls.

i82i, This morning our men assembled, and
January i. greeted us with the customary salutation
on the commencement of the new year. That
they might enjoy a holiday, they had yesterday
collected doublé the usual quantity of fire-wood,
and we anxiously expected the return of the men

OP THE POLAR SEA. 35

trom Fort Providence, with some additions to
their comforts. We were led the more readily to
hope for their arrival before the evening, as we
knew that every voyager uses his utmost endea-
vour to reach a post upon, or previous to, the
jour de l'an, that hè may partake of the wonted
festivities. It forms the theme of their coriver-
sation for months before and after the period of
its arrival. On the present occasion we could
only treat them with a little flour and fat; these
were both considered as great luxuries, but still
the feast was defective from the want of rum,
although we promised them a little when it should
arrive.

The early part of January proved mild, the
thermometer ros e to 20° above zero, and we were
surprised by the appearance of a kind of damp
fog approaching very nearly to rain. The Indians
expressed their astonishment at this circumstance,
and declared the present to be one of the warmest
winters they had ever experienced. Some of
them reported that it had actually rained in the
woody parts of the country. In the latter part of
the month, however, the thermometer again de-
scended to 49°, and the mean temperature for
the month proved to be 15°.6. Owing to the
fogs that obscured the sky the aurora was visible
only upon eighteen nights in the month.

D 2

38 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

On the 15th seven of our men arrived from
Fort Providence with two kegs of rum, one barrel
of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls of
tobacco, and some clothing. They had been
twenty-one days on their march from Slave Lake,
and the labour they underwent was sufficiently
evinced by their sledge-collars having worn out
the shoulders of their,coats. Their loads weighed
from sixty to ninety pounds each, exclusive of
their bedding and provisions, which at starting
must have been at least as much more. We were
much rejoiced at their arrival, and proceeded
forthwith to pierce the spirit cask, and issue to
each of the household the portion of rum which
had been promised to them on the first day of the
year. The spirits, which were proof, were frozen,
but after standing at the fire for some time they
flowed out of the consistency of honey. The
temperature of the liquid, even in this state, was
so low as instantly to convert into ice the mois-
ture which condensed on the surface of the dram-
glass. The fingers also adhered to the glass,
and would, doubtless, have been speedily frozen
had they been kept in contact with it; yet each of
the voyagers swallowed his dram without expe-
riencing the slightest inconvenience, or complain-
ing even of the tooth-ach.

After the men had retired, an Indian, who had

OP THE POLAR SEA. 37

accompanied them from Fort Providence, informed
me that they had broached the cask on their way
up and spent two days in drinking. This instance
of breach of trust was excessively distressing to
me; I feit for their privations and fatigues, and
was disposed to seize upon every opportunity of
alleviating them, but this, combined with many
instances of petty dishonesty with regard to meat,
shewed how little confidence could be put in a
Canadian voyager when food or spirits were in
question. We had been indeed made acquainted
with their character on these points by the traders;
but we thought that when they saw their officers
living under equal if not greater privations than
themselves, they would have been prompted by
some degree of generous feeling to abstain from
those depredations which, under ordinary circum-
stances, they would scarcely have blushed to be
detected in.

As they were pretty well aware that such a
circumstance could not long be concealed from us,
one of them came the next morning with an artful
apology for their conduct. He stated, that as
they knew it was my intention to treat them with
a dram on the commencement of the new year,
they had helped themselves to a small quantity
on that day, trusting to my goodness for forgive-
ness ; and being unwilling to act harshly at this

88 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

period, I did forgive them, after admonishing thero
to be very circumspect in their future conduct.

The ammunition, and a small present of rum,
were sent to Akaitcho.

On the 18th Vaillant, the woodman, had the
misfortune to break his axe. This would have
been a serious evil had it occurred a few weeks
sooner, but we had just received some others from
Slave Lake.

On the 27th Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain ar-
rived with the two Esquimaux, Tattannoeuck and
Hoeootoerock, (the belly and the ear.) The Eng-
lish names, which were bestowed upon them at
Fort Churchill, are Augustus and Junius. The
former speaks English.

We now learned that Mr. Back proceededwith
Beauparlant to Fort Chipewyan, on the 24th of
December, to procure stores, having previously
discharged J. Belleau from our service at his own
request, and according to my directions. I was
the more induced to comply with this man's de-
sire of leaving us, as hè proved to be too weak
to perform the duty of bowman which hè had
undertaken.

Four dogs were brought up by this party, and
proved a great relief to our wood-haulers during
the remainder of the season.

By the arrival of Mr. Wentzel, who is an ex-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 39

cellent musician, and assisted us (con amore) in
our attempts to amuse the men, we were enabled
to gratify the whole establishment with an occa-
sional dance. Of this amusement the voyagers
were very fond, and not the less so, as it was
now and then accompanied by a dram as long as
our rum lasted.

On the 5th of February, two Canadians came
from Akaitcho for further supplies of ammunition.
We were mortified to learn that hè had received
some further unpleasant reports concerning us
from Fort Providence, and that his faith in our
good intentions was somewhat shaken. He ex-
pressed himself dissatisfied with the quantity of
ammunition we had sent him, accused us of an
intention of endeavouring to degrade him in the
eyes of his tribe, and informed us that Mr. Weeks
had refused to pay some notes for trifling quanti-
ties of goods and ammunition that had been giveh
to the hunters who accompanied our men to Slave
Lake.

Some powder and shot, and a keg of diluted
spirits were sent to him with the strongest assu-
rances of our regard.

On the 12th, another party of six men was sent
to Fort Providence, to bring up the remaining
stores. St. Germain went to Akaitcho for the

40 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

purpose of sending two of his hunters to join this
party on its route.

On comparing the language of our two Esqui-
maux with a copy of St. John's Gospel, printed
for the use of the Moravian Missionary Settle-
ments on the Labrador coast, it appeared that the
Esquimaux who resort to Churchill speak a lan-
guage essentially the same with those who fre-
quent the Labrador coast. The Red Knives, too,
recognise the expression Teyma, used by the
Esquimaux when they accost strangers in a friend-
ly manner, as similarly pronounced by Augustus,
and those of his race who frequent the mouth of
the Copper-Mine River.

The tribe to which Augustus belongs resides
generally a little to the northward of Churchill.
In the spring, before the ice quits the shores, they
kill seal, but during winter they frequent the bor-
ders of the large lakes near the coast, where they
obtain fish, rein-deer, and musk-oxen.

There are eighty-four grown men in the tribe,
only seven of whom are aged. Six Chiefs have
each two wives ; the rest of the men have only
one, so that the number of married people may
amount to one hundred and seventy, He could
give me no certain data whereby I might estimate
the number of children.

OP THE POLAR SEA. 41

Two great Chiefs, or Ac/chaiyoot, have complete
authority in directing the movements of the party,
and in distributing provisions. The Attoogaiv-
nceuck, or lesser Chiefs, are respected principally
as senior men. The tribe seldom suffers from
want of food, if the Chief moves to the different
stations at the proper season. They seem to fol-
low the eastern custom respecting marriage. As
soon as a girl is born, the young lad who wishes
to have her for a wife goes to her father's tent,
and proffers himself. If accepted, a promise is
given which is considered binding, and the girl is
delivered to her betrothed husband at the proper
age.

They consider their progenitors to have come
from the moon. Augustus has no other idea of
a Deity than some confused notions which hè has
obtained at Churchill.

When any of the tribe are dangerously ill, acon-
jurer is sent for, and the bearer of the message
carries a suitable present to induce his attend-
ance. Upon his arrival hè encloses himself in
the tent with the sick man, and sings over him
for days together without tasting food; but Au-
gustus, as well as the rest of the uninitiated, are
ignorant of the purport of his songs, and of the
nature of the Being to whom they are addressed.
The conjurers practise a good deal of jugglery in

42 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

swallowing knives, firing bullets through their
bodies, $c., but they are at these times generally
secluded from view, and the bystanders believe
their assertions, without requiring to be eye-wit-
nesses of the fact. Sixteen men and three women
amongst Augustus' tribe are acquainted with the
mysteries of the art. The skill of the latter is
exerted onïy on their own sex.

Upon the map being spread before Augustus,
hè soon comprehended it, and recognised Ches-
terfield Inlet to be " the opening into which salt
water enters at spring tides, and which receives
a river at its upper end." He termed it Kan-
nceucJc Kkenceuck. He has never been farther
north himself than Marble Mand, which hè dis-
tinguishes as being the spot where the large ships
were wrecked, alluding to the disastrous termina-
tionof Barlow and Knight'g Voyage of Discovery*.
He says, however, that Esquimaux of three dif-
ferent tribes have traded with his countrymen,
and that they described themselves as having
come acroBs land from a northern sea. One tribe,
who named themselves Ahwhacknanhelett, hè sup-
poses may come from Repulse Bay; another,
designated Ootkooseek-kalingmcsoot, or Stone-Ket-
Üe Esquimaux, reside more to the westward;

* See Introduction to HBARNE'S Journey, page xxiv.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 48

and the third, the Kang-orr-mceoot, or White Goose
Esquimaux, describe themselves as coming from
a great distance, and mentioned that a party of
Indians had killed several of their tribe on the
summer preceding their visit. Upon comparing
the dates of this murder with that of the last mas-
sacre which the Copper Indians have perpetrated
on these harmless and defenceless people, they
appear to differ two years ; but the lapse of time
is so inaccurately recorded, that this difièrence in
their accounts is not sufficient to destroy their
identity ; besides, the Chipewyans, the only other
Indians who could possibly have committed the
deed, have long since ceased to go to war. If
this massacre should be the one mentioned by the
Copper Indians, the Kang-orr-moeoOt must reside
near the mouth of the Anatessy, or River of
Strangers.

The winter habitations of the Esquimaux, who
visit Churchill, are built of snow, andjudging
from one constructed by Augustus to-day, they
are very comfortable dwellings. Having selected
a spot on the river, where the snow was about
two feet deep, and sufficiently compact, hè com-
menced by tracing out a circle twelve feet in dia-
meter. The snow in the interior of the circle was
next divided with a broad knife, having a long

44 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

handle, into slabs three feet long, six inches thick,
and two feet deep, being the thickness of the layer
of snow. These slabs were tenacious enough
to admit of being moved about without breaking,
or even losing the sharpness of their angles, and
they had a slight degree of curvature, correspond-
ing with that of the circle from which they were
cut. They were piled upon each other exactly
like courses of hewn stone around the circle which
was traced out, and care was taken to smooth the
beds of the different courses with the knife, and
to cut them so as to give the wall a slight inclina-
tion inwards, by which contrivance the building
acquired the properties of a dome. The dome
was closed somewhat suddenly and flatly by
cutting the upper slabs in a wedge-form, instead
of the more rectangular shape of those below.
The roof was about eight feet high, and the last
aperture was shut up by a small conical piece.
The whole was built from within, and each slab
was cut so that it retained its position without re-
quiring support until another was placed. beside
it, the lightness of the slabs greatly facilitating
the operation. When the building was covered
in, a little loose snow was thrown over it, to close
up every chink, and a low door was cut through
the walls with the knife. A bed-place was next

OF THE POLAR SEA. 45

formed, and neatly faced up with slabs of snow,
which was then covered with a thin layer of pine
branches, to prevent them frotn melting by the
heat of the body. At each end of the bed a pillar
of snow was erected to place a lamp upon, and
lastly, a porch was built before the door, and a
piece of clear ice was placed in an aperture cut
in the wall for a window.

The purity of the material of which the house
was framed, the elegance of its construction, and
the translucency of its walls, which transmitted a
very pleasant light, gave it an appearance far su-
perior to a marble building, and one might sur-
vey it with feelings somewhat akin to those pro-
duced by the contemplation of a Grecian temple,
reared by Phidias ; both are triumphs of art, in-
imitable in their kinds.

Annexed there is a plan of a complete Esqui-
maux snow-house, and kitchen and other apart-
ments, copied from a sketch made by Augustus,
with the names of the different places affixed.
The only fire-place is in the kitchen, the heat of
the lamps sufficing to keep the other apartments
warm:

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES
A

OP THE POLAR SEA. 47

REFERENCES TO THE PLAN.

A. Ablokeyt, steps.
B* PahkEuk, porch.

C. Wadl leek, passage.

D. Haddruvweek, for the reception of the sweepings of the house,

E. G. Tokheuook, ante-chamber, or passage.

F. Annarraartoweek.

H. Eegah, cooking-house.

J. Eegah-natkah, passage.

K. Keidgewack, for piling wood «pon.

M. Keekloot, fire-place built ofstone.

li. Keek kloweyt, cooking side.

N. Eegloo, house.

O. Kattack, door.

P. NattfEuck, clear space in the apartment.

a. d. Eekput, a kind of shelf, where the candle stands; and

b. c. a pit, where they throw their bones, and other offal of their
provision_:

Q. Eegl-luck, bed-place.

S. bed-place, as on the other side.

R. Eegleetetet, bed-side, or sitting-place.

T. Kietgn-nok, small pantry.

U. Hargkack, store-house for provisiona.

48 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Several deer were killed near the house, and
we received some supplies frora Akaitcho. Parties
were also employed in bringing in the meat that
was placed en cache in the early part of the winter.
More than one half of these caches, however, had
been'destroyed by the wolves and wolverenes ; a
circumstance which, in conjunction with the empty
state of our store-house, led us to fear that we
should be much straitened for provisions before
the arrival of any considerable number of rein-
deer in this neighbourhood.

A good many ptarmigan were seen at this time,
and the women caught some in snares, but not in
sufficient quantity to make any further alteration
in the rations of deers' meat that were daily
issued. They had already been reduced from
eight, to the short allowance of five pounds.

Many wolves prowled nightly about the house,
and even ventured upon the roof of the kitchen,
which is a low building, in search of food; Keskar-
rah shot a very large white one, of which a beauti-
ful and correct drawing was made by Mr. Hood.

The temperature in February was considerably
lower than in the preceding month, although not
so low as in December, the mean being 25°.3
The greatest temperature was 1° above zero, and
the lowest 51° below.

On the 5th of March the people returned from
Slave Lake, bringing the remainder of our stores,

OP THE POLAR SEA. 40

consisting of a cask of flour, thirty-six pounds of
sugar, a roll of tobacco, and forty pounds of
tobacco. I received a letter from Mr. Weeks,
wherein hè denied that hè had ever circulated
any reports to our disadvantage ; and stated that
hè had done every thing in his power to assist
us, and even discouraged Akaitcho from leaving
us, when hè had sent him a message, saying,
that hè wished to do so, if hè was sure of being
well received at Fort Providence.

We mentioned the contents of the letter to the
Indians, who were at the house at the time, when
one of the hunters, who had attent¹ ed the men on
their journey, stated, that hè had heard many of
the reports against us from Mr. Weeks himself,
and expressing his surprise that hè should ven-
ture to deny them. St. Germain soon afterwards
arrived from Akaitcho, and informed us, that hè
left him in good humour, and, apparently, not
harbouring the slightest idea of quitting us.

On the 12th, we sent four men to Fort Provi.
dence ; and, on the 17th, Mr. Back arrived from
Fort Chipewyan, having performed, since hè left
us, a journey of more than one thousand miles on
foot. I had every reason to be much pleased with
his conduct on this arduous undertaking ; but his
exertions may be best estimated by the perusal
of the following narrative of his proceedings:

VOL, II. E

50 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

" On quitting Fort Enterprise, with Mr. Wentzel
and two Canadians, accompanied by two hunters
and their wives, our route lay across the barren
hills. We saw, during the day, a number of
deer, and, occasionally, a solitary white wolf;
and in the evening halted near a small knot of
pines. Owing to the slow progress made by the
wives of the hunters, we only travelled the first
day a distance of seven miles and a half. During
the night we had a glimpse of the fantastic beau-
ties of the Aurora Borealis, and were somewhat
annoyed by the wolves, whose nightly howling in-
terrupted our repose. Early the next morning
we continued our march, sometimes crossing
small lakes (which were just frozen enough to
bear us,) and at other times going large circuits,
in order to avoid those which were open. The
walking was extremely bad throughout the day ;
for independent of the general unevenness of the
ground, and the numberless large stones which
lay scattered in every direction, the unusual
warmth of the weather had dissolved the snow,
which not only kept us constantly wet, but de-
prived us of a firm footing, so that the men, with
their heavy burdens, were in momentary appre-
hension of falling. In the afternoon a fine herd
of deer was descried, and the Indians, who are
always anxious for the chase, and can hardly be

OP THE POLAR SEA_? 61

restrained from pursuing every animal which they
see, set out immediately. It was late when they
returned, having had good success, and bringing
with them five tongues, and the shoulder of a
deer. We made about twelve miles this day.
The night was fine, and the Aurora Borealis so
vivid, that we imagined, more than once, that we
heard a rustling noise like that of autumnal leaves
stirred by the wind; but after two hours of atten-
tive listening, we were not entirely convinced of
the fact. The coruscations were not so bright,
nor the transition from one shape and colour to
another so rapid, as they sometimes are ; other-
wise, I have no doubt, from the midnight silence
which prevailed, that we should have ascertained
this yet undecided point.

" The morning of the 20th was so extremely
hazy that we could not see ten yards before us;
it was, therefore, late when we started, and dur-
ing our journey the hunters complained of the
weather, and feared they should lose the track of
our route. Towards the evening it became so
thick that we could not proceed ; consequently, we
halted in a small wood, situated in a valley, after
having only completed a distance of six miles.

" The scenery consisted of high hills, which were
almost destitute of trees, and lakes appeared in
the valleys, The cracking of the ice was so loud

E a

6* JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

during the night as to resemble thunder, and the
wolves howled round us. We were now at the
commencement of the woods, and at an early
hour, on the Sist, continued our journey over high
huls for three miles, when the appearance of
some deer caused us to halt, and nearly the re-
mainder of the day was passed in hunting them.
In the evening we stopped within sight of Pros-
pect Hill, after having killed and concealed six
deer. A considerable quantity of snow feil during
the night.

" The surrounding country was extremely rug-
ged; the hills divided by deep ravines, and the val-
leys covered with broken masses of rocks and
stones ; yet the deer fly (as it were,) over these im-
pediments with apparent ease, seldom making a
false step, and springing from crag to crag with all
the safety of the mountain goat. After passing
Rein-Deer Lake, (where the ice was so thin as to
bend at every step for nine miles,) we halted, per-
fectly satisfied with our escape from sinkirig into
the water. While some of the party were forming
the encampment one of the hunters killed a deer,
a part of which was concealed to be ready for
use on our return. This evening we halted in a
woed near the canoe track, after having travelled a
distance of nine miles. The wind was S.E. and
the night cloudy, with wind and rain,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 53

" On the 24th and 25th weunderwent somefa-
tigue from being obliged to go rourid the lakes,
which lay across our route, and were not suffi-
ciently frozen to bear us. Several rivulets ap-
peared to ernpty themselves into the lakes, no
animals were killed, and few tracks seen. The
scenery consisted of barren rocks and high hills,
covered with lofty pine, birch, and larch trees.

" October 26.We continued our journey, some-
times on frozen lakes, and at other times on high
craggy rocks. When we were on the lakes we
were much impeded in our journey by different
parts which were unfrozen. There was a visible
increase of wood, consisting of birch and larch,
as we inclined to the southward. About ten
A.M. we passed Icy Portage, where we saw va-
rious tracks of the moose, bear, and otter; and
after a most harassing march through thick
woods and over fallen trees, we halted a mile to
the westward of Fishing Lake; our provisions
were now almost expended; the weather -was
cloudy with snow.

" On the 27th we crossed two lakes, and per-
formed a circuitous route, frequently crossing
high hills to avoid those lakes which were not
frozen; during the day one of the women made
a hole through the ice, and caught a fine pike>
which she gave to us ; the Indians would not
partake of it, from the idea (as we afterwards

54 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

learnt,) that we should not have sufficientfor our-
selves : " We are accustomed to starvation," said
they, " but you are not." In the evening, we
halted near Rocky Lake. I accompanied one of
the Indians to the summit of a hul, where hè
shewed me a dark horizontal cloud, extending to
a considerable distance along the mountains in
the perspective, which hè said was occasioned by
the Great Slave Lake, and was considered as a
good guide to all the hunters in the vicinity. On
our return we saw two untenanted bears' dens.

" The night was cloudy with heavy snow; yet
the following morning we continued our tedious
march, many of the lakes remained still open, the
rocks high and covered with snow, which con-
tinued to fall all day, consequently we effected but
a trifling distance, and that too with much difficulty.
In the evening we halted; having only performed
about seven miles. One of the Indians gave us
a fish which hè had caught, though hè had nothing
for himself; and it was with much trouble that hè
could be prevailed upon to partake of it. The
night was cloudy with snow. On the 29th we
set out through deep snow and thick woods ; and
after crossing two small lakes stopped to break-
fast, sending the women on before, as they had
already complained of lameness, and could not
keep pace with the party. It was not long before
we overtook them on the banks of a small lake,

OF THE POLAR SEA. ,55

which though infinitely les s in magnitude than
many we had passed, yet had not a partiële of
ice on its surface. It was shoal, had no visible
current, and was surrounded by huls. We had
nothing to eat, and were not very near an establish-
ment where food could be procured; however, as
we proceeded, the lakes were frozen, and we
quickened our pace, stopping but twice for the
hunters to smoke. Nevertheless the distance we
completed was but trifiing, and at nightwe halted
near a lake, the men being tired, and much bruised
from constantly falling amongstthick broken woods
and loose stones concealed under the snow. The
night was blowing and hazy with snow.

" On the 30th we set out with the expectation of
gaining the _Slave Lake in the evening; but our
progress was again impeded by the same causes
as before, so that the whole day was spent in
forcing our way through thick woods and over
swamps covered with snow. We had to walk
over pointed and loose rocks, which sliding from
under our feet, made our path dangerous, and
often threw us down several feet on sharp-edged
stones lying beneath the snow. Once we had to
climb a towering, and almost perpendicular, rock,
which not only detained us, but was the cause
of great anxiety for the safety of the women,
who being heavily laden with furs, and one of
them with a child on .her back, could not exert

50 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

themselves with the activity which such a task re-
quired. Fortunately nothing serious occurred,
though one of them once feil with considerable
violence. During the day one of the hunters broke
through the ice, but was soon extricated; when it
became dark we halted near the Bow String Port-
age, greatly disappointed at not having reached
the lake. The weather was cloudy, accompanied
with thick mist and snow. The Indians expected
to have found here a bear in its den, and to have
made a hearty meal of its flesh; indeed it had
been the subject of conversation all day, and they
had even gone so far as to divide it, frequently
asking me what part I preferred; but when we
came to the spotoh! lamentable ! it had already
fallen a prey to the devouring appetites of some
more fortunate hunters, who had only left suffi-
cient evidence that such a thing ha J once existed.
One of our men, however, caught a fish, which
with the assistance of some weed scraped from
the rocks, (tripe de roche,} which forms a glutinous
substance, made us a tolerable supper; it was not
of the most choice kind, but yet good enough for
hungry men. While we were eating it I perceived
one of the women busily employed scraping an
old skin, the contents of which her husband pre-
sented us with. They consisted of pounded meat,
fat, and a greater proportion of Indians' and deers-
hair than either; and though such a mixture may

OF THE POLAR SEA. 57

not appear very alluring to an English stomach,
it was thought a great luxury after three days'
privation in these cheerless regions of America.
Indeed had it not been for the precaution and
generosity of the Indians, we must have gone
without sustenance until we had reached the fort.

" On the Ist of November our men began to
make a raft to enable us to cross a river which
was not even frozen at the edges. It was soon
finished, and three of us embarked, being seated
up to the ancles in water. We each took a pine
branch for a paddie, and made an effort to gain
the opposite shore, in which, after some time,
(and not without strong apprehensions of drifting
into the Slave Lake,) we succeeded. In two
hours' time the whole party was over, with a
comfortable addition to it in the shape of some
fine fish, which the Indians had caught: of course
we did not forget to take these friends with us,
and after passing several lakes, to one of which
we saw no termination, we halted within eight
miles of the fort. The Great Slave Lake was
not frozen.

" In crossing a narrow branch of the lake I feil
through the ice, but received no injury; and at
noon we arrived at Fort Providence, and were
received by Mr. Weeks, a clerk of the North-
West Company, and in charge of the establish-

SS JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ment. I found several packets of letters for the
officers, which I was desirous of sending to them
immediately ; but as the Indians and their wives
complained of illness and inability to return be-
fore they had rested, a flagon of mixed spirits
was given them, and their sorrows were soon for-
gotten, and in a quarter of an hour, they pro-
nounced themselves excellent hunters, and capa-
ble of going any where ; however, their boasting
eeased with the last drop of the bottle, when a
crying scène took place, which would have con-
tinued half the night, had not the magie of an ad-
ditional quantity of spirits dried their tears, and
once more turned their mourning into joy. It was
a satisfaction to me to behold these poor creatures
enjoying themselves, for they had behaved in the
most exemplary and active marnier towards the
party, and with a generosity and sympathy sel-
dom found even in the more civilized parts of the
world ; and the attention and affection which they
manifested towards their wives, evinced a bene-
volence of disposition and goodness of nature
which could not fail to secure the approbation of
the most indifferent observer.

" The accounts I here received of ourgoods were
of so unsatisfactory a nature, that I determined to
proceed, as soon as the lake was frozen, to Moose-
Deer Island, or if necessary to the Athabasca

OP THE POLAR SEA. 59

Lake ; both to inform myself of the grounds of
the unceremonious and negligent manner in which
the Expedition had been treated, and to obtain
a sufficient supply of ammunition and other
stores, to enable it to leave its present situa-
tion, and proceed for the attainment of its ulti-
mate object.

" NovemberQ.I despatched to Fort Enterprise
one of the men, with the letters and a hundred
musquet-balls, which Mr. Weeks lent me on the
condition that they should be returned the first
opportunity. An Indian and his wife accompanied
the messenger. Lieutenant Franklin was made
acquainted with the exact state of things ; and I
awaited with much impatience the freezing of the
lake.

" November 16.A band of Slave Indians came
to the fort with a few furs and some bears' grease.
Though we had not seen any of them, it appeared
that they had received information of our being
in the country, and knew the precise situation of
our house, which they would have visited long
ago, but from the fear they had of being pillaged
by the Copper Indians. I questioned the chief
about the Great Bear and Marten Lakes, their
distance from Fort Enterprise, óf c. ; but his an-
swers were so vague and unsatisfactory that they
were not worth attention ; his description of Bou-

60 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

leau's Route, (which hè said was the shortest and
best, and abundant in animals,) was very defec-
tive, though the relative points were sufficiently
characteristic, had we not possessed a better
route. He had never been at the sea; and knew
nothing about the mouth of the Copper-Mine
River. In the evening hè made his young men
dance, and sometimes accompanied them himself.
They had four feathers in each hand. When one
commenced moving in a circular form, lifting both
feet at the same time, similar to jumping side-
ways. After a short time a second and a third
joined, and afterwards the whole band was
dancing, some in a state of nudity, others half
dressed, singing an unmusical wild air with (I
suppose,) appropriate words; the particular
sounds of which were, ha ! ha ! ha! uttered voci-
ferously, and with great distortion of countenance,
and peculiar attitude of body, the feathers being
always kept in a tremulous motion. The ensuing
day I made the chief acquainted with the object
of our mission, and recommended him to keep at
peace with his neighbouring tribes, and to con-
duct himself with attention and friendship towards
the whites. I then gave him a medal, telling him
it was the picture of the King, whom they em-
phatically term " their Great Father."
" November 18.Weobservedtwomockmoons

OP THE POLAR SEA. fll

at equal distances from the central one ; and the
whole were encircled by a halo: the colour of
the inner edge of the large circle was a light red,
inclining to a faint purple.

" November 20.Two parhelia were observable
with a halo ; the colours of the inner edge of the
circle were a bright carmine and red lake, inter-
mingled with a rich yellow, forming a purplish
orange ; the outer edge was pale gamboge.

" December 5,A man was sent some distance
on the lake, to see if it was sufficiently frozen for
us to cross. I need scarcely mention my satisfac-
tion, when hè returned with the pleasing infor-
mation that it was.

" December 7.I quitted Fort Providence, be-
ing accompanied by Mr. Wentzel, Beauparlant,
and two other Canadians, provided with dogs and
sledges. We proceeded along the borders of the
lake, occasionally crossing deep bays ; and at
dusk encamped at the Gros Cap, having proceed-
ed a distance of twenty-five miles.

" December 8.We set out on the lake with an
excessively cold north-west wind, and were fre-
quently interrupted by large pieces of ice which
had been thrown up by the violence of the waves
during the progress of congelation, and at dusk
we encamped on the Rein-Deer Islands.

" The night was fine, with a faint Aurora Borealis.

62 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Next day the wind was so keen, that the men pro-
posed conveying me in a sledge that I might be
the less exposed, to which, after some hesitation,
I consented. Accordingly a rein-deer skin and
a blanket were laid along the sledge, and in these
I was wrapped tight up to the chin, and lashed to
the vehicle, with just leaving sufficient play for
my head to perceive when I was about to be
upset on some rough projecting piece of ice.
Thus equipped, we set off before the wind (a
favourable circumstance on a lake), and went on
very well until noon ; when the ice being driven
up in ridges, in such a manner as to obstruct us
very much, I was released ; and I confess not un-
willingly, though I had to walk the remainder of
the day.

" There are large openings in many parts where
the ice had separated ; and in attempting to cross
one of them, the dogs feil into the water, and
were saved with difficulty. The poor animals
suffered dreadfully from the cold, and narrowly
escaped being frozen to death. We had quick-
ened our pace towards the close of the day, but
could not get sight of the land ; and it was not
till the sun had set that we perceived it about
four miles to our left, which obliged us to turn
back, and head the wind. It was then so cold,
that two of the party were frozen almost immedi-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 68

ately about the face and ears. I escaped, from
having the good fortune to possess a pair of gloves
made of rabbits'-skin, with which ï kept constantly
chafing the places which began to be affected.
At six P.M. we arrived at the fishing-huts near
Stony Island, and remained there the night.
The Canadians were not a little surprised at
seeing us whom they had already given up for
lostnor less so at the manner by which we
had comefor they all affirmed, that the lake
near them was quite free from ice the day
before. »

" December 10.At an earlyhour we quitted the
huts, lashed on sledges as before, with some little
addition to our party ; and at three hours thirty
minutes P.M. arrived at the North-West Fort on
Moose-Deer Island, where I was received by Mr.
Smith, with whom I had been acquainted at the
Athabasca. He said hè partly expected me.
The same evening I visited Messrs. M'Vicar and
M'Aulay at Hudson's Bay Fort, when I found
the reports concerning our goods were but too
true, there being in reality but five packages for
us. I also was informed that two Esquimaux,
Augustus the chief, and Junius his servant, who
had been sent from Fort Churchill by Governor
Williams, to serve in the capacity of interpreters
to the Expedition, were at the Fort. The men

64 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

were short of stature but muscular, apparently
good-natured, and perfectly acquainted with the
purpose for which they were intended. They
had built themselves a snow-houseon an adjacent
island, where they used frequently to sleep. The
following day I examined the pieces, and to my
great disappointment found them to consist of
three kegs of spirits, already adulterated by the
voyagers who had brought them; a keg of flour,
and thirty-five pounds of sugar, instead of sixty.
The ammunition and tobacco, the two most essen-
tial requisites, were left behind.

" I lost no time in making a demand from both
parties ; and though their united list did not
furnish the half of what was required, yet it is pos-
sible that every thing was given by them which
could be spared consistent with their separate
interests, particularly by Mr. M'Vicar, who, in
many articles, gave me the whole hè had in his
possession. These things were sent away im-
mediately for Fort Enterprise, when an interpreter
arrived with letters from Li eutenant Franklin,
which referred to a series of injurious reports said
to have been propagated against us by some one
at Fort Providence.

" Finding a sufficiency of goods could not be
provided at Moose-Deer Island, I determined to
proceed to the Athabasca Lake, and ascertain the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 65

inclinations of the gentlemen there. With this
view I communicated my intentions to both
parties; but could only get dogs enough from
the North-West Company to carry the necessary
provisions for the journey. Indeed Mr. Smith
informed me plainly hè was of opinion that
nothing could be spared at Fort Chipewyan;
that goods had never been transported so long a
journey in the winter season, and that the same
dogs could not possibly go and return; besides,
it was very doubtful if I could be provided with
dogs there ; and finally, that the distance was
great, and would take sixteen days to perform it.
He added that the provisions would be mouldy
and bad, and that from having to walk constantly
on snow-shoes, I should suffer a great deal of
misery and fatigue. Notwithstanding these as-
sertions, on the 23d of December I left the fort,
with Beauparlant and a Bois-brulé, each having
a sledge drawn by dogs, laden with pemmican.
We crossed an arm of the lake, and entered the
Little Buffalo River, which is connected with the
Salt River, and is about fifty yards wide at its
junction with the lakethe water is brackish.
This route is usually taken in the winter, as it
cuts off a large angle in going to the Great Slave
River. In the afternoon we passed two empty
fishing-huts, and in the evening encamped amongst

VOL. H. p

«6 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

some high pines on the banks of the river, having
had several snow showers during the day, which
considerably impeded the dogs, so that we had
not proceeded more than fifteen miles.

"December 24 and 25.We continued along the
river, frequently making small portages to avoid
going round the points, and passed some small
canoes, which the Indians had left for the winter.
The snow was so deep that the dogs were obliged
to stop every ten minutes to rest themselves;
and the cold so excessive, that both the men were
badly frozen on both sides of the face and chin.
At length, having come to a long meadow, which
the dogs could not cross that night, we halted in
an adjoining wood, and were presently joined by
a Canadian, who was on his return to the fort,
and who treated us with some fresh meat in ex-
change for some pemmican. During the latter
part of the day we had seen numerous tracks of
the moose, buffalo, and marten,

" December 26.The weather was so cold that
we were compelled to run to prevent ourselves
from freezing; our route lay across some large
meadows which appeared to abound in animals,
though the Indians around Slave Lake are in a
state of great want. About noon we passed a
sulphur-stream, which ran into the river; it ap-
peared to come from a plain about fifty yards dis-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 67

tant. There were no rocks near it, and the soil
through which it took its course was composed
of a reddish clay. I was much galled by the
strings of the snow-shoes during the day, and
once got a severe fall, occasioned by the dogs
running over one of my feet, and dragging me
some distance, my snow-shoe having become en-
tangled with the sledge. In the evening we lost
our way, from the great similarity of appearance
in the country, and it was dark before we found
it again, when we halted in a thick wood, after
having come about sixteen miles from the last
encampment. Much snow feil during the night.

" At an early hour on the 27th of December, we
continued our journey along the surfacè of a long
but narrow lake, and then through a wood, which
brought us to the grand detour on the Slave River.
The weather was extremely cloudy, with occa-
sional falls of snow, which tended greatly to im-
pede our progress, from its gathering in lumps be-
tween the dogs' toes; and though they did notgo
very fast, yet my left knee pained me so much, that
I found it difficult to keep up with them. At three
P.M. we halted within nine miles of the SaltRiver,
and made a hearty meal of mouldy pemmican.

" December 28 and 29.We had much difficulty
in proceeding, owing to the poor dogs being quite

worn out, and their feet perfectly raw. We én-

F 2

68 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

deavoured to tie shoes on them, to afFord them
some little relief, but they continually came off
\vhen amongst deep snow, so that it occupied one
person entirely to look after them. In this state
they were hardly of any use among the steep
ascents of the portages, when we were obliged to
drag the sledges ourselves. We found a few of
the rapids entirely frozen. Those that were not
had holes and large spaces about them, from
whence issued a thick vapour, and in passing this
we found it particularly cold; but what appeared
anost curious was the number of small fountains
which rose through the ice, and often rendered it
doubtful which way we should take. I was much
disappointed at finding several falls (which I had
intended to sketch) frozen almost even with the
upper and lower parts of the stream; the ice was
connected by a thin arch, and the rushing of the
water underneath might be heard at a consider-
able distance from the place. On the banks of
these rapids there was a constant overflowing of
the water, but in such small quantities as to
freeze before it had reached the surface of the
central ice, so that we passed between two ridges
of icicles, the transparency of which was beauti-
fully contrasted by the flakes of snow and the
dark green branches of the over-hanging pine.
" Beauparlant complained bitterly of the cold

OP THE POLAR SEA. 69

whilst among the rapids, but no sooner had hè
reached the upper part of the river than hè found
the change of the temperature so great. that hè
vented his indignation against the heat." Mais
c'est terrible/' said hè, to be frozen and sun-burnt
in the same day. The poor fellow, who had been
a long time in the country, regarded it as the most
severe punishment that could have been inflicted
on him, and would willingly have given a part of
his wages rather than this clisgrace had happen-
ed; for there is a pride amongst " Old Voyagers,"
which makes them consider the state of being
frost-bitten as effeminate, and only excusable in
a " Pork-eater,'' or one newly come into the coun-
try. I was greatly fatigued, and sufFered acute
pains in the knees and legs, both of which were
much swollen when we halted a little above the
Dog River.

" December 30 and 31.Our journey these days
was by far the most annoying we had yet ex-
perienced ; but, independent of the vast masses
of ice that were piled on one another, as well as
the numerous open places about the rapids (and
they did not a little impede us,) there was a
strong gale from the north-west, and so dreadfully
keen, that our time was occupied in rubbing the
frozen parts of the face, and in attempting to
warm the hands, in order to be prepared for the

70 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

next operation. Scarcely was one place cured
by constant friction than another was frozen ; and
though there was nothing pleasant about it, yet
it was laughable enough to observe the dexterity
which was used in changing the position of the
hand from the face to the mitten, and vice versd.
One of the men was severely affected, the whole
side of his face being almost raw. Towards sun-
set I suffered so much in my knee and ankle, from
a recent sprain, that it was with difBculty I could
proceed with snow-shoes to the encampment on
the Stony Islands. But in this point I was not
singular ; for Beauparlant was almost as bad, and
without the same cause.

1821. " We.set out with a quick step, the wind
January l. _g^ blowing fresh from the north-west,
which seemed in some measure to invigorate the
dogs ; for towards sunset they left me a consider-
able distance behind. Indeed my legs and ankles
were now so swelled, that it was excessive pain
to drag the snow-shoes after me. At night we
halted on the banks of Stony River, when I gave
the men a glass of grog, to commemorate the new
year ; and the next day, January 2, we arrived
at Fort Chipey wan, after a journey of ten days
and four hoursthe shortest time in which the
distance had been done at the same season of the
year. I found Messrs. G. Keith and S. M'Gilli-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 71

vray in charge of the fort, who were not a little
surprised to see me. The commencement of
the new year is the rejoicing season of the Ca-
nadians, when they are generally intoxicated a
few days. I postponed making any demand till
this time of festivity should cease ; but on the
same day I went over to the Hudson's Bay Fort,
and delivered Lieuteoant Franklin's letters to Mr.
Simpson. If they were astonished at one side to
see me, the amazement was still greater on the
other ; for reports were so far in advance, that we
were said to have already fallen by the spears of
the Esquimaux.

" January 3.I made a demand from both par-
ties for supplies ; such as ammunition, gun-flints,
axes, files, clothing, tobacco, and spirits. I stated
to them our extreme necessity, and that without
their assistance the Expedition must be arrested
in its progress. The answer from the North-
West gentleman was satisfactory enough; but on
the Hudson Bay side I was told, " that any far-
ther assistance this season entirely depends on
the arrival of supplies, expected in a few weeks
hence from a distant establishment." I remained
at Fort Chipewyan five weeks, during which time
some laden sledges did arrive, but I could not
obtain any addition to the few articles I had pro-
cured at first. A packet of letters for us, from

72 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

England, having arrived, I made preparations for
my return, but not before I had requested both
Companies to send, next year, from the depots a
quantity of goods for our use, specified in lists
furnished to them.

" The weather, during my abode at Chipewyan,
was generally mild, with occasional heavy stonns,
most of which were anticipated by the activity of
the Aurora Borealis ; and this I observed had
been the case between Fort Providence and the
Athabasca in December and January, though not
invariably so in other parts of the country. One of
the partners of the North-West Company related
to me the following singular story:' He was
travelling in a canoe in the English River, and
had landed near the Kettle Fall, when the corus-
cations of the Aurora Borealis were so vivid and
low, that the Canadians feil on their faces, and
began praying and crying, fearing they should
be killed; hè himself threw away his gun and
knife, that they might not attract the flashes, for
they were within two feet from the earth, flitting
along with incredible swiftness, and moving
parallel to its surface. They continu ed for up-
wards of five minutes, as near as hè could judge,
and made a loud rustling noise, like the waving of
a flag in a strong breeze. After they had ceased,
the sky became clear, with little wind.'

OF THE POLAR SEA. 73

" Februari/ 9.Having got every thing arranged,
and having had a hearty breakfast with a coup
de l'eau de me, (a custom amongst the traders,) I
took my departure, or rather attempted to do so,
for on going to the gate there was a long range of
women, who came to bid me farewell. They
were all dressed.(afterthe manner of the country)
in blue or green cloth, with their hair fresh greased,
separated before, and falling down behind, not in
careless tresses, but in a good sound tail, fastened
with black tape or riband. This was considered
a great compliment, and the ceremony consisted
in embracing the whole party.

" I had with me four sledges, laden with goods
for the Expedition, and a fifth one belonging to
the Hudson's Bay Company. We returned ex-
actly by the same route, suffering no other incon-
venience but that arising from the chaffing of the
snow-shoe, and bad weather. Some Indians,
whom we met on the banks of the Little Buffalo
River, were rather surprised at seeing us, for
they had heard that we were on an island, which
was surrounded by Esquimaux. The dogs were
almost worn out, and their feet raw, when, on
February the 20th, we arrived at Moose-Deer
Island with our goods all in good order. Towards
the end of the month two of our men arrived with
letters from Lieutenant Franklin, containing some

74 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

fresh demands, the major part of which I was
fortunate enough to procure without the least
trouble. Having arranged the accounts and re-
ceipts between the Companies and the Expedi-
tion, and sent every thing before me to Fort Pro-
vidence, I prepared for my departure ; and it is
but justice to the gentlemen of both parties at
Moose-Deer Island to remark, that they afForded
the means of forwarding our stores in the most
cheerful and pleasant manner.

" March 5.I took leave of the gentlemen at the
forts, and, in the afternoon, got to the fisheries
near Stony Island, where I found Mr. M'Vicar,
who was kind enough to have a house ready for
my reception; and I was not a little gratified at
perceiving a pleasant looking girl employed in
roasting a fine joint, and afterwards arranging the
table with all the dexterity of an accomplished
servant.

" March 6.We set out at day-light, and break-
fasted at the Hein-Deer Islands. As the day
advanced the heat became so oppressive, that
each pulled ofF his coat and ran tul sunset, when
we halted with two men, who were on their return
to Moose-Deer Island. There was a beautiful
Aurora Borealis in the night; it rose about
N.b.W., and divided into three bars, diverging at
equal distances as far as the zenith, and then

OF THE POLAR SEA. 75

converging until they met in the opposite horizon;
there were some flashes at right angles to the
bars.

" March 7.We arrived at Fort Providence, and
found our stores safe and in good order. There be-
ing no certainty when the Indian, who was to accom-
pany me to our house, would arrive, and my impa-
tience to join my companions increasing as I
approached it, after making the necessary arrange-
ments with Mr. Weeks respectirig our stores, on
March the lOth I quitted the fort, with two of our
men, who had each a couple of dogs and a sledge
laden with provision. On the 13th we met the
Indian, near Icy Portage, who was sent to guide me
back. On the 14th we killed a deer, and gave the
dogs a good feed; and, on the 17th, at anearly hour,
we arrived at Fort Enterprise, having travelled
about eighteen miles a-day. I had the pleasure
of meeting my friends all in good health, after an
absence of nearly five months, during which time
I had travelled one thousand one hundred and
four miles, on snow shoes, and had no other
covering at night, in the woods, than a blanket
and deer-skin, with the thermometer frequently
at 40°, and once at 57°; and sometimes
passing two or three days without tasting food."

76 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER IX.

Continuation of Proceedings at Fort EnterpriseSome Account of the
Copper IndiansPreparations for the Journey to the Northvvard.

I SHALL now give a brief account of the
. Copper Indians, termed by the Chipe-
wyans, Tantsawhot-dinneh, or Birch-rind Indians.
They were originally a tribe of the Chipewyans,
and, according to their own account, inhabited
the south side of Great Slave Lake, at no very
distant period. Their language, traditions, and
customs, are essentially the same with those of
the Chipewyans, but in personal character they
have greatly the advantage of that people ; a cir-
cumstance which is to be attributed, probably, to
local causes, perhaps to their procuring their food
more easily and in greater abundance. They hold
women in the same low estimation as the Chipe-
wyans do, looking upon them as a kind of pro-
perty, which the stronger may take from the
weaker, whenever there is just reason for quar-
relling, if the parties are of their own nation, or
whenever they meet, if the weaker party are
Dog-ribs or other strangers. They suffer, how-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 77

ever, the kinder affections to shew themselves
occasionally; they, in general, live happily with
their wives, the women are contented with their
lot, and we witnessed several instances of strong
attachment. Of their kindness to strangers we
are fully qualified to speak; their love of pro-
perty, attention to their interests, and fears for
the future, made them occasionally clamorous and
unsteady; but their delicate and humane attention
to us, in a season of great distress, at a future
period, are indelibly engraven on our memories.
Of their notions of a Deity, or future state, we
never could obtain any satisfactory account; they
were unwilling, perhaps, to exposé their opinions
to the chance of ridicule. Akaitcho generally
evaded our questions on these points, but ex-
pressed a desire to learn from us, and regularly
attended Divine Service during his residence at
the fort, behaving with the utmost decorum.

This leader, indeed, and many ethers of his
tribe, possess a laudable curiosity, which might
easily be directed to the most important ends;
and I believe, that a well-conducted Christian
mission to this quarter would not fail of producing
the happiest effect. Old Keskarrah alone used
boldly to express his disbelief of a Supreme
Deity, and state that hè could not credit the ex-
istence of a Being, whose power was said to

78 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

extend every where, but whom hè had not yet
seen, although hè was now an old man. The old
sceptic is not a little conceited, as the following
exordium to one of his speeches evinces: "It is
very strange that I never meet with any one who
is equal in sense to myself." The same old man,
in one of his communicative moods, related to us
the following tradition: The earth had been
formed, but continued enveloped in total dark-
ness, when a bear and a squirrel met on the
shores of a lake; a dispute arose as to their
respective powers, which they agreed to settle by
running in opposite directions round the lake,
and which ever arrived first at the starting point,
was to evince his superiority by some signal act
of power. The squirrel beat, ran up a tree, and
loudly demanded light, which instantly beaming
forth, discovered a bird dispelling the gloom with
its wings; the bird was afterwards recognised to
be a crow. The squirrel next broke a piece of
bark from the tree, endowed it with the power of
floating, and said, Behold the material which
shall afford the future inhabitants of the earth the
means of traversing the waters.

The Indians are not the first people who have
ascribed the origin of nautics to the ingenuity of
the squirrel. The Copper Indians consider the
bear, otter, and other animals of prey, or rather

OF THE POLAR SEA. 79

some kind of spirits which assume the forms of
these creatures, as their constant enemies, and
the cause of every misfortune which happens to
them; and in seasons of difficulty or sickness they
alternately deprecate and abuse them.

Few of this nation have more than one wife at
a time, and none but the leaders have more than
two. Akaitcho has three, and the mother of his
only son is the favourite. They frequently marry
two sisters, and there is no prohibition to the in-
termarriage of cousins, but a man is restricted
from marrying his niece.

The last war excursion they made against the
Esquimaux was about ten years ago, when they
destroyed about thirty persons, at the mouth of
what they term Stony-Point E-iver, not far from
the mouth of the Copper-Mine River. They now
seem desirous of being on friendly terms with
that persecuted nation, and hope, through pur
means, to establish a lucrative commerce with
them. Indeed, the Copper Indians are sensible
of the advantages that would accrue to them, were
they made the carriers of goods between the
traders and Esquimaux.

At the time of Hearne's visit, the Copper In-
dians being unsupplied with fire-arms, were
oppressed by the Chipewyans; but even that
traveller had occasion to praise their kindness of

80 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

heart. Since they have received arms from the
traders, the Chipewyans are fearful of venturing
upon their lands ; and all of that nation, who
frequent the shores of Great Slave Lake, hold
the name of Akaitcho in great respect. The
Chipewyans have no leader of equal authority
amongst themselves.

The number of the Copper Indians may be
one hundred and ninety souls, viz., eighty men
and boys, and one hundred and ten women and
young children. There are forty-five hunters in
the tribe. The adherents of Akaitcho amount to
about forty men and boys ; the rest follow a
number of minor chiefs.

For the following notices of the nations on
Mackenzie's River, we are principally indebted
to Mr. Wentzel, who resided for many years in
that quarter.

The Thlingcha-dinneh, or Dog-ribs, or, as they
are sometimes termed after the Crees, who for-
merly warred against them, Slaves, inhabit the
country to the westward of the Copper Indians,
as far as Mackenzie's River. They are of a
mild, hospitable, but rather indolent, disposition.
They spend much of their time in amusements,
and are fond of singing and dancing. In this
respect, and in another, they differ very widely
from most of the other Aborigines of North Ame-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 81

rica. I allude to their kind treatment of the
women. The men do the laborious work, whilst
their wives employ themselves in ornamenting
their dresses with quill work, and in other occu-
pations suited to their sex. Mr. Wentzel has
often knovvn the young married men to bring
specimens of their wives' needle-work to the
forts, and exhibit them with much pride. Kind
treatment of the fair sex being usually consi-
dered as an indication of considerable progress
in civilization, it might be worth while to inquire
how it happens, that these people have stept so
far beyond their neighbours. They have had,
undoubtedly, the same common origin with the
Chipewyans, for their languages differ only in
accent, and their mode of life is essentially the
same. We have not sufficient data to prosecute
the inquiry with any hope of success, but we
may recall to the reader's memory what was
formerly mentioned, that the Dog-ribs say they
came from the westward, whilst the Chipewyans
say that they migrated from the eastward.

When bands of Dog-ribs meet each other after
a long absence, they perform a kind of dance.
A piece of ground is cleared for the purpose, if
it is winter of the snow, or if summer of the
bushes; and the dance frequently lasts for two
or three days, the parties relieving each other as

VOL. II. G

62 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

they get tired. The two bands commence the
dance with their backs turned to each other, the
individuals following oae another in Indian file,
and holding the bow in the left hand and an
arrow in the right. They approach obliquely,
after mariy turns, and when the two bands are
closely back to back, they feign to see each other
for the first time, and the bow is instantly trans-
ferred to the right hand, and the arrow to the
left, signifying that it is not their iritention to use
them against their friends. At a fort they use
feathers instead of bows. The dance is accom-
panied with a song. These people are the
dancing-masters of the country. The Copper
Indians have neither dance nor music but what
they borrow from them. On our first interview
with Akaitcho, at Fort Providence, hè treated us,
as has already been mentioned, with a representa-
tion of the Dog-rib dance ; and Mr. Back, during
his winter journey, had an opportunity of observ-
ing it performed by the Dog-rib s themselves.

The chief tribe of the Dog-rib nation, termed
Horn Mountain Indians, inhabit the country be-
twixt Great Bear Lake, and the west end of
Great Slave Lake. They muster about two
hundred men and boys capable of pursuing the
chase, Small detachments of the nation frequent
Marten Lake, and during the summer hunt in

OF THE POLAR SEA. «3

the neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise. Indeed
this part of the country was formerly exclusively
their's, and most of the lakes and remarkable
hills bear the names which they imposed upon
them. As the Copper Indians generally pillage
them of their women and furs when they meet,
they endeavour to avoid them, and visit their
ancient quarters on the barren grounds only by
stealth.

Immediately to the northward of the Dog-ribs,
on the north side of Bear Lake River, are the
Kawcho-dinneh, or Hare Indians, who also speak
a dialect of the Chipewyan language, and have
much of the same manners with the Dog-ribs,
but are considered both by them and by the
Copper Indians, to be great conjurers. These
people report that in their hunting excursions to
the northward of Great Bear Lake they meet
small parties of Esquimaux.

Immediately to the northward of the Hare In-
dians, on both banks of Mackenzie's River, are
the Tykothee-dinneh, Loucheux, Squint-Eyes, or
Quarrellers. They speak a language distinct
from the Chipewyan. They war often with the
Esquimaux at the mouth of Mackenzie's River,
but have occasionally some peaceable intercourse
with them, and it would appear that they find no
difficulty in understanding each other, there being

84 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

consideratie similarity in their languages. Their
dress also resembles the Esquimaux, and differs
from that of the other inhabitants of Mackenzie's
River. The Tykothee-dinneh trade with Fort
Good-Hope, situated a considerable distance
below the confluence of Bear Lake River with
Mackenzie's River, and as the traders suppose,
within three days' march of the Arctic Sea. It
is the most northern establishment of the North-
West Company, and some small pieces of Rus-
sian copper coin once made their way thither
across the continent from the westward. Blue
or white beads are almost the orily articles of
European manufacture coveted by the Loucheux.
They perforate the septum of the nose, and
insert in the opening three small shells which
they procure at a high price from the Esquimaux.
On the west bank of Mackenzie's River there
are several tribes who speak dialects of the
Chipewyan language, that have not hitherto been
mentioned. The first you come to, on tracing
the river to the southward from Fort Good-Hope,
are the Ambawtawhoot-dinneh, or Sheep Indians.
They inhabit the Rocky Mountains near the
sources of the Dawhoot-dinneh River which
flows into Mackenzie's, and are but little known
to the traders. Some of them have visited Fort
Good-Hope. A report of their being cannibals

OF THE POLAR SBA. 85

may have originated in an imperfect knowledge
of them.

Some distance to the southward of this people
are the Rocky Mountain Indians, a small tribe
which musters about forty men and boys capable
of pursuing the chase. They differ but little
from the next we are about to mention, the
Edchawlawhoot-dinneh, Strong-bow, Beaver, or
Thick-wood Indians, who frequent the Rivière
aux Liards, or south branch of Mackenzie's River.
The Strong-bows resemble the Dog-ribs some-
what in their disposition ; but when they meet
they assume a considerable degree of superiority
over the latter, who meekly submit to the haugh-
tiness of their neighbours. Until the year 1813,
when a small party of them from some unfortu-
nate provocation, destroyed Fort Nelson on the
Rivière aux Liards, and murdered its inmates,
the Strong-bows were considered to be a friendly
and quiet tribe, and esteemed as excellent hun-
ters. These people take their names, in the first
instance, from their dogs. A young man is the
father of a certain dog, but when hè is married,
and has a son, hè styles himself the father of the
boy. The women have a habit of reproving the
dogs very tenderly when they observe them
fighting," Are you not ashamed," say they,

85 JOURNEY TO THE 5HORES

" are you not ashamed to quarrel with your little
brother?" The dogs appear to understand the
reproof and sneak off.

The Strong-bows, and Rocky-Mountain In-
dians, have a tradition in common with the Dog-
ribs, that they came originally from the westward,
from a level country, where there was no winter,
which produced trees, and large fruits, now un-
known to them. It was inhabited also by many
strange animals, amongst which there was a small
one whose visage bore a striking resemblance to
the human countenance. During their residence
in this land, their ancestors were visited by a
man who healed the sick, raised the dead, and
performed many other miracles, enjoining them
at the same time to lead good lives, and not to eat
of the entrails of animals, nor to use the brains
for dressing skins until after the third day ; and
never to leave the skull of deer upon the ground
within the reach of dogs and wolves, but to hang
them carefully upon trees. No one knew from
whence this good man came, or whither hè went.
They were driven from that land by the rising of
the waters, andfollowing the tracks of animals on
the sea-shore, they directed their course to the
northward. At length they came to a strait,
which they crossed upon a raft, but the sea has

OP THE POLAR SEA. S»

since frozen, and they have never been able to
return. These traditions are unknown to the
Chipewyans.

The number of men and boys of the Strong-
bow nation, who are capable of hunting, may
amount to seventy.

There are some other tribes who also speak
dialects of the Chipewyan, upon the upper
branches of the Rivière aux Liards, such as the
Nohhannies and the Tsïllawdawhoot-dinneh, or
Brushwood Indians. They are but little known,
but the latter are supposed occasionally to visit
some of the establishments on Peace River.

Having now communicated as briefly as I could
the principal facts that came to our knowledge re-
garding the Indians in this quarter, I shall resumé
the narrative of events at Fort Enterprise.The
month of March proved fine. The thermometer
rose once to 24° above zero, and feil upon
another day 49° below zero, but the mean was
- 11!°.

On the 23d the last of our winter's stock of
deer's meat was expended, and we were com-
pelled to issue a little pounded meat which we
had reserved for making pemmican for summer
use. Our nets, which wére set under the ice on
the 15th, produced only two or three small fish
daily. Amongst these was the round fish, a

88 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

species of Coregonus, which we had not seen
previously.

On the following day two Indians came with a
message frora the Hook, the chief next to Akaitcho
in authority amongst the Copper Indians. His
band was between West Marten and Great Bear
Lakes, and hè offered to provide a quantity of
dried meat for us on the banks of the Copper-
Mine River in the beginning of summer, provided
we sent him some goods and ammunition. It
was in his power to do this without inconvenience,
as hè generally spends the summer months on.
the banks of the river near the Copper Moun-
tain; but we had no goods to spare, and I could
not venture to send any part of our small stock of
ammunition until I saw what the necessities of
our own party required, I told them, however,
that I would gladly receive either provisions or
leather when we met, and would pay for them by
notes on the North-West Company's post; but to
prevent any misunderstanding with Mr. Weeks,
I requested them to take their winter's collection
of furs to Fort Providence before they went to the
Copper-Mine River. They assured me that the
Hook would watch anxiously for our passing, as
hè was unwell, and wished to consult the doctor.

Several circumstances having come lately to
my knowledge that led me to suspect the fidelity

OF THE POLAK SEA. 89

of our interpreters, they were examineduponthis
subject. It appeared that in their intercourse
with the Indians they have contracted very fearful
ideas of the danger of our enterprise, which aug-
ment as the time of our departure draws near,
and have not hesitated to express their dislike to
the journey in strong terras amongst the Cana-
dians, who are accustomed to pay much deference
to the opinions of an interpreter. But this is not
all; I had more than sufficient reason for suspect-
ing that they had endeavoured to damp the exer-
tions of the Indians, with the hope that the want
of provision in the spring would put an end to our
progress at once. St. Germain, in particular,
had behaved in a very equivocal way, since his
journey to Slave Lake. He denied the principal
parts of the charge in a very dogged manner, but
acknowledged that hè had told the leader that we
had not paid him the attention that a chief like
him ought to have received ; and that we had put
a great affront on him in sending him only a small
quantity of rum. An artfulman like St. Germain,
possessing as hè did such a flow of language, and
capable of saying even what hè confessed to, had
the means of poisoning the minds of the Indians
without committing himself by any direct asser-
tion that they could communicate ; and it is to be
remarked, that unless Mr. Wentzel had possessed

«O JOUENEY TO THE SHORES

a Competent knowledge of the Copper Indian
language, we should not have learned what we
did.

Although perfectly satisfied of his baseness,
I could not dispense with his services ; and I had
no other resource but to give him a serious ad-
monition, and desire him to return to his duty,
after endeavouring to work upon his fears by an
assurance, that I would certainly convey him to
England for trial if the Expedition should be
stopped through his fault. He replied, " It is
immaterial to me where I lose my life, whether in
England, or accompanying you to the sea, for
the whole party will perish." After this discus-
sion, however, hè was more circumspect in his
conduct.

On the 28th we received a small supply of meat
from the Indian lodges. They had now moved
into a lake, about twelve miles distant from us,
in expectation of the deer coming soon to the
northward.

On the 29th Akaitcho arrived at the house,
having been sent for to make some arrangements
respecting the procuring of provision, and that
we might learn from him what his sentiments were
with regard to accompanying us on our future
journey. Next morning we had a conference,
which I commenced by shewing him the charts

OF THE POLAR SEA. 91

and drawings that were prepared to be sent to
England, and explaining fully our future inten-
tions. He appeared much pleased at this mark
of attention, and, when his curiosity was satisfied,
began his speech by saying, that " although a
vast number of idle rumours had been floating
about the barren grounds during the winter," yet
hè was convinced that the representations that
had been made to him at Fort Providence regard-
ing the purport of the Expedition were perfectly
correct. I next pointed out to him the necessity
of our proceeding with as little delay as possible
during the short period of the year that was fit
for our operations, and that to do so it was requi-
site we should have a large supply of provisions
at starting. He instantly admitted the force of
these observations, and promised that hè and his
young men should do their utmost to comply with
our desires; and afterwards, in answer to my
questions, informed us that hè would accompany
the Expedition to the mouth of the Copper-Mine
River, or, if we did not meet with Esquimaux
there for some distance along the coast, hè was
anxious, hè said, to have an amicable interview
with that people ; and hè further requested, that,
in the event of our meeting with Dog-ribs on the
Copper-Mine River, we should use our influence
to persuade them to live on friendly terms with

92 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

his tribe. We were highly pleased to find his
sentiments so favourable to our views, and, after
making some minor arrangements, we parted,
mutually content with each other.

Akaitcho left us on the morning of the 3lst,
accompanied by Augustus, who, at his request,
went to reside for a few days at his lodge.

On the 4th of April our men arrived with the
last supply of goods from Fort Providence, the
fruits of Mr. Back's arduous journey to the Atha-
basca Lake ; and on the 17th Belanger Ie gros
and Belanger Ie rouge, for so our men discrimi-
nated them, set out for Slave Lake, with a box
containing the journals of the officers, charts,
drawings, observations, and letters addressed to
the Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs. They
also conveyed a letter for Governor Williams, in
which I requested that hè would, if possible, send
a schoener to Wager Bay with provisions and
clothing, to meet the exigencies of the party,
should they succeed in reaching that part of the
coast.

Connoyer, who was much tormented with bi-
liary calculi, and had done little or no duty all the
winter, was discharged at the same time, and
sent down in company with an Indian named the
Belly.
The commencement of April was fine, and for

OP THE POLAR SEA. 93

several days a considerable thaw took place in
the heat of the sun, which laying bare some of
the lichens on the sides of the huls, produced a
consequent movement of the rein-deer to the north-
ward, and induced the Indians to believe that the
spring was already commencing. Many of them,
therefore, quitted the woods, and set their snares
on the barren grounds near Fort Enterprise.
Two or three days of cold weather, however, to-
wards the middle of the month, damped their
hopes, and they began to say that another moon
must elapse before the arrival of the wished-for
season. In the mean time their premature de-
parture from the woods, caused them to suffer
from the want of food, and we were in some de-
gree involved in their distress. We received no
supplies from the hunters, our nets produced but
very few fish, and the pounded meat which we
had intended to keep for summer use was nearly
expended. Our meals at this period were always
scanty, and we were occasionally restricted to
one in the day.

The Indian families about the house, consisting
principally of Vomen and children, suffered most.
I had often requested them to move to Akaitcho's
lodge, where they were more certain of receiving
supplies ; but as most of them were sick or in-

94 JOURNEF TO THE SHORES

firm, they did not liketo quit the house, where they
daily received medicines from Dr. Richardson,
to encounter the fatigue of following the move-
ments of a hunting camp. They cleared away the
snow on the site of the autumn encampments to
look for bones, deers' feet, bits of hide, and other
offal. When we beheld them gnawing the pieces
,of hide, and pounding the bones, for the purpose
of extracting some nourishment from them by boil-
ing, we regretted our inability to relieve them,
but little thought that we should ourselves be
afterwards driven to the necessity of eagerly col-
lecting these same bones a second time from the
dunghill.

At this time, to divert the attention of the men
from their wants, we encouraged the practice of
sliding down the steep bank of the river upon
.sledges. These vehicles descended the snowy
bank with much velocity, and ran a great distance
upon the ice. The officers joined in the sport,
and the numerous overturns we experienced
seemed to form no small share of the amusement
of the party; but on one occasion, when I had
been thrown from my seat and almost buried in
the snow, a fat Indian woman drove her sledge
over me, and sprained my knee severely.

On the 18th at eight in the evening a beautiful

OF THE POLAR SEA. 9,3

halo appeared round the sun when it was about
8° high. The colours were prismatic, and very
bright, the red next the sun,

On the 21 st the ice in the river was measured,
and found to be five feet thick, and on the same
day in setting the nets in Round Rock Lake, the
ice there was ascertained to be six feet and a half
thick, the water being six fathoms deep. The
stomachs of some fish were at this time opened
by Dr. Richardson, and found filled with insects
which appear to exist in abundance under the
ice during the winter.

On the 22nd a moose-deer was killed at the
distance of forty-five miles, and St. Germain
went for it with a dog sledge, and returned with
unusual expedition on the morning of the third
day. This supply was soon exhausted, and we
passed the 27th without eating, and had a prospect
of fasting a day or two longer, when old Kes-
karrah entered with the unexpected intelligence of
his having killed a deer. It was divided betwixt
our own family and the Indians, and during the
night a seasonable supply arrived from Akaitcho.
Augustus returned with the men who brought it,
much pleased with the attention hè had received
frora the Indians during his visit to Akaitcho.

Next day Mr. Wentzel set out with every man
that we could spare from the fort, for the purpose

95 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

of bringing meat from the Indians as fast as it
could be procured. Dr. Richardson followed
them two days afterwards to collect specimens of
the rocks in that part of the country. On the
same day the two Belangers arrived from Fort
Providence, having been only five days on the
march from thence.

The highest temperature in April was + 40°,
the lowest 39°, the mean + 4°.6. The tem-
perature of the rapid, examined on the 30th by
Messrs. Back and Hood, was 32° at the surface,
33° at the bottom.

On the 7th of May, Dr. Richardson returned
from his excursion. He informed me that the
rein-deer were again advancing to the riorthward,
but that the leader had been joined by several
families of old people, and that the daily con-
sumption of provision at the Indian tents was con-
sequently great. This information excited some
painful apprehensions of being very scantily pro-
vided when the period for our departure should
arrive.

The weather in the beginning of May was fine
and warm. On the 2nd some patches of sandy
-ground near the house were cleared of snow. On
the 7th the sides of the hills began to appear
bare, and on the 8th a large house-fly was seen.
This interesting event spread cheerfulness through

OF THE POLAR SEA. 97

our residence and formed a topic of conversation
for the rest of the day.

On the 9th the approach of spring was still
more agreeably confirmed by the appearance of
a merganser and two gulls, and some loons, or
arctic divers, at the rapid. This day, to reduce
the labour of dragging meat to the house, the
vvomen and children and all the men, except four,
were sent to live at the Indian tents.

The blue-berries, crow-berries, eye-berries, and
cran-berries, which had been covered, and pro-
tected by the snow during the winter, might at
this time be gatherecl in abundance, and proved
indeed a valuable resource. The ground con-
tinued frozen, but the heat of the sun had a visible
effect on the vegetation; the sap thawed in the
pine-trees, and Dr. Richardson informed me that
the mosses were beginning to shoot, and that the
calyptree of some of the jungermanniee were al-
ready visible.

On the llth Mr. Wentzel returned from the
Indian lodges, having made the necessary ar-
rangements with Akaitcho for the drying of meat
for summer use, the bringing of fresh meat to the
fort, and the procuring a sufficient quantity of
the resin of the spruce-fir, or as it is termed by
the voyagers gum, for repairing the canoes pre-
vious to starting, and during the voyage. By my

VOL. II. H

98 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

desire, hè had promised payment to the Indian
women who should bring in any of the Jatter
article, and had sent several of our own men to
the woods to search for it. At this time I com-
municated to Mr. Wentzel the mode in which I
meant to conduct the journey of the approaching
summer. Upon our arrival at the sea, I proposed
to reduce the party to what would be sufficient to
man two canoes, in order to lessen the consump-
tion of provisions during our voyage, or journey
along the coast; and as Mr. Wentzel had ex-
pressed a desire of proceeding no further than
the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, which was
seconded by the Indians, who wished him to re-
turn with them, I readily relieved his anxiety on
this subject; the more so as I thought hè might
render greater service to us by making deposits
of provision at certain points, than by accompany-
ing us through a country which was unknown to
him, and amongst a people with whom hè was
totally unacquainted. My intentions were ex-
plained to him in detail, but they were of course
to be modified by the circumstances that might
occur.

On the 14th a robin (turdus migratoriusj ap-
peared; this bird is considered by the natives
as the infallible precursor of warm weather.
Ducks and geese were also seen in numbers,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 99

and the rein-deer advanced to the northward.
The merganser, (inergus serrator,) which preys
upon small fish, was the first of the duck tribe
that appeared ; next came the teal, (anas crecca,}
which lives upon small insects that abound in the
waters at this season ; and lastly the goose, which
feeds upon berries and herbage. Geese appear
at Cumberland House, in latitude 54°, usually
about the 12th of April; at Fort Chipewyan, in
latitude 59°, on the 25th of April; at Slave Lake,
in latitude 61°, on the Ist of May ; and at Fort
Enterprise, in latitude 64° 28', on the 12th or
14th of the same month.

On the 16th a minor chief ampngst the Copper
Indians, attended by his son, arrived from Fort
Providence to consult Dr. Richardson. He was
affected with snow-blindness, which soon yielded
to the dropping of a little laudanum into his eyes
twice a day. Most of our own men have been
affected with the same complaint of late, but it
has always yielded in twenty or thirty hours to
the same remedy.

On the 21 st all our men returned from the In-
dians, and Akaitcho was on his way to the fort.
In the afternoon two of his young men arrived to
announce his visit, and to request that hè might
be received with a salute and other marks of re-
spect that hè had been accustomed to on visiting

H 2

100 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Fort Providence in the spring. I complied with
his desire although I regretted the expenditure
of ammunition, and sent the young men away
with the customary present of powder to enable
him to return the salute, some tobacco, vermilion
to paint their faces, a comb, and a looking-glass.
At eleven Akaitcho arrived; upon the first no-
tice of his appearance the flag was hoisted at
the fort, and upon his nearer approach, a number
of musquets were fired by a party of our people,
and returned by his young men. Akaitcho, pre-
ceded by his standard-bearer, led the party, and
advanced with a slow and solemn step to the
door where Mr. Wentzel and I received him.
The faces of the party were daubed with vermi-
lion, the old men having a spot on the right cheek,
the young ones on the left. Akaitcho himself was
not painted. On entering hè sat down on a chest,
the rest placed themselves in a circle on the floor.
The pipe was passed once or twice round, and in
the mean time a bowl of spirits and water, and a
present considerablefor our circumstances of cloth,
blankets, capots, shirts, &c., was placed on the
floor for the chief s acceptance, and distribution
amongst his people. Akaitcho then commenced
his speech, but I regret to say, that it was very
discouraging, and indicated that hè had parted
with his good humeur, at least since his March

OP THE POLAR SEA. 101

visit. He first inquired, whether, in the event of
a passage by sea being discovered, we should
come to his lands in any ship that might be sent ?
And being answered, that it was probable but not
quite certain, that some oné amongst us might
come; hè expressed a hope that some suitable
present should be forwarded to himself and
nation; " for," said hè, " the great Cliief who
commands where all the goods come from, must
see from the drawings and descriptions of us and
our country that we are a miserable people." I
assured him that hè would be remembered,
provided hè faithfully fulfilled his engagement
with us.

He next complained of the non-payment of my
notes by Mr. Weeks, from whence hè appre-
hended that his own reward would be withheld.
" If," said hè, " your notes to such a trifling
amount are not accepted, whilst you are within
such a short distance, and can hold communica-
tion with the fort, it is not probable that the large
reward which has been promised to myself and
party, will be paid when you are far distant; on
your way to your own country. It really appears
to me," hè continued, " as if both of the Com-
panies consider your party as a third company,
hostile to their interests, and that neither of them
will pay the notes you give to the Indians."

103 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Afterwards, in the course of a long conference,
hè enumerated many other grounds of dissatis-
faction ; the principal of which were our want of
attention to hun as chief, the weakness of the
rum formerly sent to him, the smallness of the
present now offered to him, and the want of the
chief's clothing, which hè had been accustomed
to receive at Fort Providence every spring. He
concluded, by refusing to receive the goods now
offered to him.

In reply to these complaints it was stated that
Mr. Weeks's conduct could not be properly dis-
cussed at the distance we were from his fort;
that no dependance ought to be placed on the
vague reports that floated through the Indian
territory; that, for our part, although we had
heard many stories to his (Akaitcho's) disad-
vantage, we discredited them all; that the rum
we had sent him, being what the great men in
England were accustomed to drink, was of a
milder kind, but, in fact, stronger than what hè
had been accustomed to receive; and that the
distance we had come, and the speed with which
we travelled, precluded us from bringing large
quantities of goods like the traders; that this had
been fully explained to him when hè agreed to
accompany us ; and that, in consideration of his
not receiving his usual spring outfit, his debts to

OP THE POLAR SEA. 103

the Company had been cancelled, and a present,
much greater than any hè had ever received be-
fore, ordered to be got ready for his return. He
was further informed, that we were much dis-
appointed in not receiving any dried meat from
him, an article indispensable for our summer
voyage, and which, hè had led us to believe there
was no difficulty in procuring ; and that, in fact,
his complaints were so groundless, in comparison
with the real injury we sustained from the want
of supplies, that we were led to believe they were
preferred solely for the purpose of cloaking his
own want of attention to the terms of his engage-
ment. He then shifted his ground, and stated,
that if we attempted to make a voyage along the
sea-coast we would inevitably perish; and hè
advised us strongly against persisting in the
attempt. This part of his harangue being an
exact transcript of the sentiments formerly ex-
pressed by our interpreters, induced us to con-
clude that they had prompted his present line of
conduct, by telling him, that we had goods or
rum concealed. He afterwards received a por-
tion of our dinner, in the manner hè had been
accustomed to do, and seemed inclined to make
up matters with us in the course of the evening,
provided we added to the present offered to him.
Being told, however, that this was impossible,

101 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

since we had already offered him all the rum we
had, and every article of goods we could spare
from our own equipment, his obstinacy was a
little shaken, and hè made some concessions, but
deferred giving a final answer, until the arrival
of Humpy, his elder brother. The young men,
however, did not choose to wait so long, and at
night came for the rum, which we judged to be a
considerable step towards a reconciliation.

St. Germain, the most intelligent of our two
interpreters, and the one who had most influence
with the Indians, being informed that their de-
fection was, in a great measure, attributed to the
unguarded conversations hè had held with them,
and which hè had in part acknowledged, exerted
himself much, on the following day, in bringing
about a change in their sentiments, and with
some success. The young men, though they de-
clined hunting, conducted themselves with the
same good humour and freedom as formerly.
Akaitcho being, as hè said, ashamed to shew him-
self, kept close in his tent all day.

On the 24th, one of the women who accom-
panied us from Athabasca, was sent down to Fort
Providence, under charge of the old chief, who
came some days ago for medicine for his eyes.
Angelique and Roulante, the other two women,
having families, preferred accompanying the In-

OF THE POLAR SEA. lofi

dians during their summer hunt. On the 25th,
clothing, and other necessary articles, were issued
to the Canadians as their equipment for the en-
suing voyage. Two or three blankets, some
cloth, iron work, and trinkets were reserved for
distribution amongst the Esquimaux on the sea-
coast. Laced dresses were given to Augustus
and Junius. It is impossible to describe the joy
that took possession of the latter on the receipt of
this present. The happy little fellow burst into
ecstatic laughter, as hè surveyed the different
articles of his gay habiliments.

In the afternoon Humpy, the leader's elder
brother; Anncethai-yazzeh, another of his bro-
thers ; and one of our guides, arrived with the
remainder of Akaitcho's band ; as also Long-legs,
brother to the Hook, with three of his band.
There were now in the encampment, thirty hunters,
thirty-one women, and sixty children, in all one
hundred and twenty-one Indians of the Copper-
Indian or Red-Knife tribe. The rest of the nation
were with the Hook on the lower part of the
Copper-Mine River.

Anncethai-yazzeh is remarkable amongst the
Indians for the number of his descendants; hè
has eighteen children living by two wives, of
whom sixteen were at the fort at this time.

In the evening we had another formidable con-
ference. The former complaints were reiterated,

105 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

and we parted about midnight, without any satis-
factory answer being given to my questions, as
to when Akaitcho would proceed towards the
River, and where hè meant to make provision for
our march. I was somewhat pleased, however,
to find, that Humpy and Annoethai-yazzeh cen-
sured their brother's conduct, and accused him
of avarice.

On the 26th the canoes were removed from
the places where they had been deposited, as we
judged that the heat of the atmosphere was now
so great, as to admit of their being repaired with-
out risk of cracking the bark. We were rejoiced
to find that two of them had suffered little injury
from the frost during the winter. The bark of
the third one was considerably rent, but it was
still capable of being repaired.

The Indians sat in conference in their tents all
the morning; and in the afternoon, came into
the house charged with fresh matter for discus-
sion.

Soon after they had seated themselves, and
the room was filled with the customary volume of
smoke from their calumets, the goods which had
been laid aside, were again presented to the
leader; buthe at once refused to distribute so small
a quantity amongst his men, and complained that
there were neither blankets, kettlés, nor daggers,
amongst them; and in the warmth of his anger,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 1(17

hè charged Mr. Wentzel with having advised the
distribution of all our goods to the Canadians,
and thus defrauding the Indians of what was in-
tended for them. Mr. Wentzel, of course, im-
mediately repelled this injurious accusation, and
reminded Akaitcho again, that hè had been told,
on engaging to accompany us, that hè was not
to expect any goods until his return. This hè
denied with an effrontery that surprised us all,
when Humpy, who was present at our first inter-
view at Fort Providence, declared that hè heard
us say, that no goods could be taken for the sup-
ply of the Indians on the voyage ; and the first
guide added, " I do not expect any thing here,
I have promised to accompany the white people
to the sea, and I will, therefore, go, confidently
relying upon receiving the stipulated reward on
my return." Akaitcho did not seem prepared to
hear such declarations from his brothers, and in-
stantly changed the subject, and began to descant
upon the treatment hè had received from the
traders in his concerns with them, with an as-
perity of language that bore more the appearance
of menace than complaint. I immediately re-
fused to discuss this topic, as foreign to our pre-
sent business, and desired Akaitcho to recall to
his memory, that hè had told me on our first
meeting, that hè considered me the father of every

108 JOÜRNEY TO THE SHORES

person attached to the Expedition, in which cha-
racter it was surely my duty to provide for the
comfort and safety of the Canadians as wel] as
of the Indians. The voyagers, hè knew, had a
long journey to perform, and would, in all pro-
bability, be exposed to much suffering from cold
on a coast destitute of wood ; and, therefore, re-
quired a greater provision of clothing than was
necessary for the Indians, who, by returning im-
mediately from the mouth of the river, would
reach Fort Providence in August, and obtain
their promised rewards. Most of the Indians
appearedto assentto this argument, but Akaitcho
said, " I perceivethe traders have deceived you;
you should have brought more goods, but I do
not blame you." I then told him, that I had
brought from England only ammunition, tobacco,
and spirits; and. that being ignorant what other
articles the Indians required, we were dependent
on the traders for supplies; but hè must be
aware, that every endeavour had been used on
our parts to procure them, as was evinced by
Mr. Back's journey to Fort Chipewyan. With
respect to the ammunition and tobacco, we had
been as much disappointed as themselves in not
receiving them, but this was to be attributed
to the neglect of those to whom they had been
intrusted. This explanation seemed to satisfy

OF THE POLAR SEA. . 109

him. After some minutes of refiection, his coun-
tenance became more cheerful, and hè made in-
quiry, whether his party might go to either of the
trading posts they chose on their return, and
whether the Hudson's Bay Company were rich,
for they had been represented to him as a poor
people ? I answered him, that we really knew
nothing about the wealth of either Company,
having never concerned ourselves with trade, but
that all the traders appeared to us to be respect-
able. Our thoughts, I added, are fixed solely
on the accomplishment of the objects for which
we came to the country. Our success depends
much on your furnishing us' with provision
speedily, that we may have all the summer to
work in ; and if we succeed, a ship will soon
bring goods in abundance to the mouth of the
Copper-Mine River. The Indians talked together
for a short time after this conversation, and then
the leader made an application for two or three
kettles and some blankets, to be added to the
present to his young men; we were unable to
spare him any kettles, but the officers promised
to give a blanket each from their own beds.

Dinner was now brought in, and relieved us
for a time from their importunity. The leading
men, as usual, received each a portion from the
table. When the conversation was resumed, the

110 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

leader renewed his solicitations for goods, but it
was now too palpable to be mistaken, that hè
aimed at getting every thing hè possibly could,
and leaving us without the means of making any
presents to the Esquimaux, or other Indians we
might meet. I resolved, therefore, on steadily
refusing every request that hè should make at
this time ; and when hè perceived that hè could
extort nothing more, hè rose in an angry manner,
and addressing his young men, said: " There
are too few goods for me to distribute ; those that
mean to follow the white people to the sea may
take them."

This was an incautious speech, as it rendered
it necessary for his party to display their senti-
ments. The guides, and most of the hunters,
declared their readiness to go, and came forward
to receive a portion of the present, which was
no inconsiderable assortment. This relieved a
weight of anxiety from my mind, and I did not
much regard the leader's retiring in a very dis-
satisfied mood.

The hunters then applied to Mr. Wentzel for
ammunition, that they might go a hunting in the
morning, and it was cheerfully given to them.

The officers and men amused themselves at
prison-bars, and other Canadian games till two
o'clock in the morning, and we were pleased to

OF THE POLAR SEA. 111

observe the Indians sitting in groups enjoying the
sport. We were desirous of filling up the leisure
moments of the Canadians with amusements, not
only for the purpose of enlivening their spirits,
but.also to prevent them from conversing upon
our differences with the Indians, which they must
have observed. The exercise was also in a pe-
culiar manner serviceable to Mr. Hood. Ever
ardent in his pursuits, hè had, through close at-
tention to his drawings and other avocations,
confined himself too much to the house in winter,
and his health was impaired by his sedentary
habits. I could only take the part of a spectator
in these amusements, being still lame from the
hurt formerly alluded to.

The sun now sinks for so short a time below
the horizon, that there is more light at midnight,
than we enjoyed on some days at noon in the
winter-time.

On the 27th the hunters brought in two rein-
deer. Many of the Indians attended divine ser-
vice this day, and were attentive spectators of our
addresses to the throne of the Almighty.

On the 28th I had a conversation with Long-
legs, whose arrival two days ago has been men-
tioned. I acquainted him with the objects of our
expedition, and our desire of promoting peace
between his nation and the Esquimaux, and

118 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

learned from him, that his brother the Hook was
by this time on the Copper-Mine River with his
party ; and that, although hè had little ammuni-
tion, yet it was possible hè might have some pro-
vision collected before our arrival at his tents. I
then decorated him with a medal similar to those
given to the other chiefs. He was highly pleased
with. this mark of our regard, and promised to do
every thing for us in his power. Akaitcho came
in during the latter part of our conversation, with
a very cheerful countenance. Jealousy of the
Hook, and a knowledge of the sentiments of the
young men being different from his own, with
respect to the recent discussions, had combined
to produce this change in his conduct, and next
morning hè took an opportunity of telling me
that I must not think the worse of him for his
importunities. It was their custom, hè said, to
do so, however strange it might appear to us,
and that hè, as the leader of his party, had to
beg for them all; but as hè saw that we had not
deceived him by concealing any of our goods,
and that we really had nothing left, hè should ask
for no more. He then told me that hè would set
out for the river as soon as the state of the coun-
try admitted of their travelling. The snow, hè
remarked, was still too deep for sledges to the
northward, and the moss too wet to make fires.

OP THE POLAR SEA. 113

He was seconded in this opinion by Long-legs,
whom I was the more inclined to believe, from
knowing that hè was anxious to rejoin his family
as soon as possible.

Akaitcho now accepted the dress hè had for-
merly refused, and next day clothed himself in
another new suit, which hè had received from us
in the autumn. Ever since his arrival at the fort,
hè had dressed meanly, and pleaded poverty ;
but, perceiving that nothing more could be gained
by such conduct,. hè thought proper to shew some
of his riches to the strangers who were daily ar-
riving at the fort. In the afternoon, however, hè
made another, though a covert, attack upon us.
He informed me that two old men had just ar-
rived at the encampment with a little pounded
meat, which they wished to barter. It was evi-
dent that his intention was merely to discover
whether we had any goods remaining or not. I
told him that we had nothing at present to give for
rneat, however much we stood in need of it, but
that we would pay for it by notes on the North-
West Company, in any kind of goods they pleased.
After much artful circumlocution, and repeated
assurances of the necessities of the men who
owned the meat, hè introduced them, and they
readily agreed to give us the provision on our
own terms.

VOL. II. I

114 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I have deemed it my duty to give the preceding
details of the tedious conversations we had with
Akaitcho, to point out to future travellers, the art
with which these Indians pursue their objects,
their avaricious nature, and the little reliance
that can be placed upon them when their interests
jar with their promises. In these respects they
agree with other tribes of northern Indians ; but,
as has been already mentioned, their dispositions
are not cruel, and their hearts are readily moved
by the cry of distress.

The average temperature for May was nearly
32°, the greatest heat was 68°, the lowest 8°.

We had constant daylight at the end of the
month, and geese and ducks were abundant, in-
deed rather too much so, for our hunters were
apt to waste upon them the ammunition that was
given to them for killing deer. Uncertain as to
the length of time that our ammunition might be
required to last, we did not deern a goose of
equal value with the charge it cost to procure it.

Dr. Richardson and Mr. Back having visited
the country to the northward of the Slave Rock,
and reported that they thought we might travel
over it, I signified my intention of sending the
first party off on Monday the 4th of June. I was
anxious to get the Indians to move on before, but
they lingered about the house, evidently with the

OP THE POL AR SEA. 115

intention of picking up such articles as we might
deern unnecessary to take. When Akaitcho was
made acquainted with my purpose of sending
away a party of men, hè came to inform me that
hè would appoint two hunters to accompany them,
and at the same time requested that Dr. Richard-
son, or as hè called him, the Medicine Chief,
might be sent with his own band. These Indians
set a great value upon medicine, and made many
demands upon Dr. Richardson on the prospect of
his departure. He had to make up little packets,
of the different articles in his chest, not only for
the leader, but for each of the minor chiefs, who
carefully placed them in their medicine bags,
noting in their memories the directions hè gave
for their use. The readiness with which their
requests for medical assistance were complied
with, was considered by them as a strong mark of
our good intentions towards them; arid the leader
often remarked, that they owed much to our kind-
ness in that respect; that formerly numbers had
died every year, but that not a life had been lost
since our arrival amongst them. In the present
instance, however, the leader's request could not
be complied with. Dr. Richardson had volun-
teered to conduct the first party to the Copper-
Mine River, whilst the rest of the officers re-
mained with me to the last moment, to complete

I 2

116 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

our astronomical observations at the house. He,
therefore, informed the leader that hè would re-
main stationary at Point Lake untüthe arrival of
the whole party, where hè might be easily con-
sulted if any of his people feil sick, as it was in
the neighbourhood of their hunting-grounds.

On the 2nd the stores were packed up in pro-
per-sized bales for the journey. I had intended
to send the canoes by the first party, but they
were not yet repaired, the weather not being suf-
ficiently warm to permit the men to work con-
stantly at them, without the hazard of breaking
the bark. This day one of the new trading
guns, which we had recently received from Fort
Chipewyan, burst in the hands of a young Indian;
fortunately, however, without doing him any ma-
terial injury. This is the sixth accident of the
kind which has occurred to us since our departure
from Slave Lake. Surely this deficiency in the
quality of the guns, which hazards the lives of so
many poor Indians, requires the serious consi-
deration of the principals of the trading Com-
panies.

On the 4th, at three in the morning, the party
under the charge of Dr. Richardson started. It
consisted of fifteen voyagers, three of them con-
ducting dog-sledges, Baldhead and Basil, two
Indian hunters with their wives, Akaiyazzeh a

OP THE POLAR SEA. 117

sick Indian and his wife, together with Angelique
and Roulante; so that the party consisted of
twenty-three exclusive of children.

The burdens of the men were about eighty
pounds each, exclusive of their personal baggage,
which amounted to nearly as much more. Most
of them dragged their loads upon sledges, but a
few preferred carrying them on their backs.
They set off in high spirits.

After breakfast the Indians struck their tents,
and the women, the boys, and the old men who
had to drag sledges, took their departure. It
was three P.M., however, before Akaitcho and
the hunters left us. We issued thirty balls to
the leader, and twenty to each of the hunters and
guides, with a proportionate quantity of powder,
and gave them directions to make all the pro-
vision they could on their way to Point Lake. I
then desired Mr. Wentzel to inform Akaitcho, in
the presence of the other Indians, that I wished
a deposit of provision to be made at this place
previous to next September, as a resource should
we return this way. He and the guides not only
promised to see this done, but suggested that it
would b e more secure if placed in the cellar, or
in Mr. Wentzel's room. The Dog-ribs, they
said, would respect any thing that was in the

118 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

house, as knowing it to belong to the white people.
At the close of this conversation Akaitcho ex-
claimed with a smile, " I see now that you have
really no goods left, (the rooms and stores being
completely stripped,) and therefore I shall not
trouble you any more, but use my best endea-
vours to préparé provision for you, and I think if
the animals are tolerably numerous, we may get
plenty before you can embark on the river."

Whilst the Indians were packing up this morn-
ing, one of the women absconded. She belongs
to the Dog-rib tribe, and had been taken by force
from her relations by her present husband, who
has treated her very harshly. The fellow was in
my room when his mother announced the depar-
ture of his wife, and received the intelligence with
great composure, as well as the seasonable reproof
of Akaitcho. "You are rightly served," said the
chief to him, " and will now have to 'carry all
your things yourself, instead of having a wife to
drag them." One hunter remained after the de-
parture of the other Indians.

On the 5th the Dog-rib woman presented her-
self on a hill at some distance from the house,
but was afraid to approach us, until the inter-
preter went and told her that neither we nor the
Indian who remained with us, would prevent her

OP THE POLAR SEA. 119

from going where she pleased. Upon this she
came to solicit a fire-steel and kettle. She was
at first low-spirited, from the non-arrival of a
country-woman, who had promised to elope with
her, but had probably been too narrowly watched.
The Indian himter, however, having given her
some directions as to the proper mode of joining
her own tribe, she became more composed, and
ultimately agreed to adopt his advice of proceed-
ing at once to Fort Providence, instead of wander-
ing about the country all summer in search of
them, at the imminent hazard of being starved.

On the 7th, the wind, changing to the south-
ward, dispersed the clouds which had obscured
the sky for several days, and produced a change
of temperature under which the snow rapidly dis-
appeared. The thermometer rose to 73°, many
nies came forth, musquitoes shewed themselves
for the first time, and one swallow made its ap-
pearance. We were the more gratified with these
indications of summer, that St. Germain was
enabled to commence upon the repair of the
canoes, and before night had completed the two
which had received the least injury. Augustus
killed two deer to-day.

On the lOth the dip of the magnetic needie
being observed, shewed a decrease of 22' 44",

120 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

since last autumn. The repairs of the third canoe
were finished this evening.

The snow was now confined to the bases of the
hills, and our Indian hunter told us the season
was early. The operations of nature, however,
seemed to us very tardy. We were eager to be
gone, and dreaded the lapse of summer, before
the Indians would allow it had begun.

On the llth the geese and ducks had left the
vicinity of Fort Enterprise, and proceeded to the
northward. S ome young ravens and whiskey-
johns made their appearance at this time.

On the 12th Winter River was nearly cleared
of ice, and on the 13th the men returned, having
left Dr. Richardson on the borders of Point Lake.
Dr. Richardson informed me by letter that the
snow was deeper in many parts near his encamp-
ment than it had been at any time last winter
near Fort Enterprise, and that the ice on Point
Lake had scarcely begun to decay. Although
the voyagers were much fatigued on their arrival,
and had eaten nothing for the last twenty-four
hours, they were very cheerful, and expressed a
desire to start with the remainder of the stores
next morning. The Dog-rib woman, who had
lingered about the house since the 6th of June,
took alarm at the approach of men, thinking,

OP THE POLAE SEA. m

perhaps, that they were accompanied by Indians,
and ran off. She was now provided with a
hatchet, kettle, and fire-steel, and would probably
go at once to Fort Providence, in the expectation
of meeting with some of her countrymen before
the end of summer.

122 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER X*.

Departure from Fort EnterpriseNavigation of the Copper-Mine
RiverVisit to the Copper MountainInterview with the Esqui-
mauxDeparture of the Indian HuntersArrangements made
with them for our return.

1821. THE trains for the canoes having been
June 14. finished during the night, the party at-
tached to them commenced their journey at ten
this morning. Each canoe was dragged by four
men, assisted by two dogs. They took the route
of Winter Lake, with the intention of following,
although more circuitous, the water-course as far
as practicable, it being safer for the canoes than
travelling over land. After their departure, the
remaining stores, the instruments, and our small
stock of dried meat, amounting only to eighty
pounds, were distributed equally among Hepburn,
three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux; with
this party and two Indian hunters, we quitted

* It will be seen hereafter that I had the misfortune to lose my
portfolio containing my journals from Fort Enterprise to the I4th
of September. But the loss has been amply redeemed by my
brother officers' journals, from which the narratire up tü that period
has been chiefly compiled.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 133

Fort Enterprise, most sincerely rejoicing that the
long-wished-for day had arrived, when we were
to proceed towards the final object of the Expe-
dition.

We left in one of the rooms a box, containing
a jouroal of the occurrences up to this date, the
charts, and som e drawings, which was to be con-
veyed to Fort Chipewyan by Mr. Wentzel, on his
return from the sea, and from thence to be sent to
England. The room was blocked up, and, by
the advice of Mr. Wentzel, a drawing represent-
ing a man holding a dagger in a threatening atti-
tude, was affixed to the door, to deter any Indians
from breaking it open. We directed our course
towards the Dog-rib Rock, but as our companions
were loaded with the weight of near one hun-
dred and eighty pounds each, we of necessity
proceeded at a slow pace. The day was ex-
tremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose attacks
had hitherto been feeble, issued forth in swarms
from the marshes, and were very tormenting.
Having walked five miles we encamped near a
small cluster of pines about two miles from the
Dog-rib Rock. The canoe party had not been
seen since they set out. Our hunters went for-
ward to Marten Lake, intending to wait for us at
a place where two deer were deposited. At nine
P.M. the temperature of the air was 63°.

1S1 JOUENEY TO THE SHORES

We resumed our march at an early hour, and
crossed several lakes which lay in our course, as
the ice enabled the men to drag their burdens on
trains formed of sticks and deer's horns, with
more ease than they could carry them on their
backs. We were kept constantly wet by this
operation, as the ice had broken near the shores
of the lakes, but this inconvenience was not re-
garded, as the day was unusually warm : the tem-
perature at two P.M. being at 82^°. At Marten
Lake we joined the canoe party, and encamped
with them. We had the mortification of learning
from our hunters that the meat they had put en
cache here, had been destroyed by the wolverenes,
and we had, in consequence, to furnish the supper
from our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind
changed from S.E. to N.E. in the evening, and
the weather became very cold, the thermometer
being at 43° at nine P.M. The few dwarf
birches we could collect afForded fire insuffi-
cient to keep us warm, and we retired under the
covering of our blankets as soon as the supper
was despatched. The N.E. breeze rendered the
night so extremely cold, that we procured but
little sleep, having neither fire nor shelter; for
though we carried our tents, we had been forced
to leave the tent-poles which we could not now
replace; we therefore gladly recommenced the

OP THE POLAR SEA. 125

journey at five in the morning, and travelled
through the remaining part of the lake on the ice.
lts surface being quite smooth, the canoes were
dragged along expeditiously by the dogs, and the
rest of the party had to walk very quick to keep
pace with them, which occasioned them to get
many heavy falls. By the time we had reached
the end of the lake, the wind had increased to a
perfect gale, and the atmosphere was so cold that
we could not proceed further with the canoes
without the risk of breaking the bark, and se-
riously injuring them; we thèreforecrossed Win-
ter River in them, and put up in a well-sheltered
place on a ridge of sand hills. But as the stock
of provision was scanty, we determined on pro-
ceeding as quick as possible, and leaving the
canoe-party under the charge of Mr. Wentzel.
We parted from them in the afternoon, and first
directed our course towards a range of hills,
where we expected to fmd Antonio Fontano, who
had separated from us in the morning. In cross-
ing towards these hills I feil through the ice into
the lake, with my bundie on my shoulders, but
was soon extricated without receiving any injury;
and Mr. Back, who left us to go in search of the
straggler, met with a similar accident in the even-
ing. We put up on a ridge of sand hills, where
we found some pines, and made a large fire to

126 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

apprize Mr. Back and Fontano of our situation.
St. Germain having killed a deer in the afternoon,
we reeeived an acceptable supply of meat. The
night was stormy and very cold.

At five the next morning, our men were sent in
different directions after our absent companions ;
but as the weather was foggy, we despaired of
finding them, unless they should chance to hear the
muskets our people were desired to fire. They re-
turned, however, at ten, bringing intelligence of
them. I went immediately with Hepburn to join
Mr. Back, and directed Mr. Hood to proceed
with the Canadians, and halt with them at a spot
where the hunters had killed a deer. Though
Mr. Back was much fatigued hè set off with me
immediately, and in the evening we rejoined our
friends on the borders of the Big Lake. The
Indians informed us that Fontano only rerrmined
a few hours with them, and then continued his
journey. We had to oppose a violent gale and
frequent snow-storms through the day, which un-
seasonable weather caused the temperature to de-
scend below the freezing point this evening. The
situation of our encampment being bleak, and our
fuel stunted green willows, we passed a very
cold and uncomfortable night,

June 18.Though the breeze was moderate
this morning, the air was piercingly keen.

OP THE POLAR SEA. ÏST

When on the point of starting, we perceived
Mr. Wentzel's party coming, and awaited
his arrival to learn whether the canoes had re-
ceived any injury during the severe weather of
yesterday. Finding they had not, we proceeded
to get upon the ice on the lake, which could not
be effected without walking up to the waist in
water, for some distance from its borders. We
had not the command of our feet in this situation,
and the men feil often; poor Junius broke through
the ice with his heavy burden on his back, but
fortunately was not hurt.

This lake is extensive, and large arms branch
from its main course in different directions. At
these parts we crossed the projecting points of
land, and on each occasion had to wade as be-
fore, which so wearied every one, that we rejoiced
when we reached its north side and encamped,
though our resting-place was a bare rock. We
had the happiness of finding Fontano at this
place. The poor fellow had passed the three
preceding days without tasting food, and was
exhausted by anxiety and hunger. His sufferings
were considered to have been a sufBcient punish-
ment for his imprudent conduct in separating from
us, and we only admonished him to be more cau-
tious in future.

Having received information that the hunters

188 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

had killed a deer, we sent three men to fetch the
meat, which was distributed between our party
and the canoe-men who had been encamped near
to us. The thermometer at three P.M. was 46°,
at nine 34°.

We commenced the following day by crossing
a lake about four miles in length, and then passed
over a succession of rugged hills for nearly the
same distance. The men being anxious to reach
some pine-trees, which they had seen on their
former journey, walked a quick pace, though they
were suffering from swelled legs and rheumatic
pains ; we could not, however, attain the desired
point, and therefore encamped on the declivity
of a hill, which sheltered us from the wind; and
used the rein-deer moss for fuel, which afforded
us more warmth than we expected. Several
patches of snow were yet remaining on the sur-
rounding hills. The thermometer variedto-day
between 55° and 45°.

On the 20th of June we began our march by
crossing a small lake, riot without much risk, as
the surface of the ice was covered with water to
the depth of two feet, and there were many holes
into which we slipped, in spite of our efforts to
avoid them. A few of the men, being fearful of
attempting the traverse with their heavy loads,
walked round the eastern end of the lake. The

OF THE POLAR SEA. 129

parties met on the sandy ridge, which separates
the stream s that fall into Winter Lake from those
that flow to the northward; and here we killed
three deer. Near to the base of this ridge we
crossed a small but rapid stream, in which there
is a remarkable cascade of about fifty feet de-
scent. Some Indians joined us here, and gave
information respecting the situation of Dr.
Richarclson's tent, which our hunters considered
was sufficient for our guidance, and therefore
proceeded as quickly as they could. Wc marclied
a few miles farther in the evening, and encamped
among some pines ; but the comfort of a good fire
did not compensate for the torment,we suffered
from the host of musquitoes we found at this spot.
The temperature was 52°.

We set off next morning at a very early
hour. The men took the course of Point Lake,
that they might use their sledges, but the officers
pursued the nearest route by land to Dr. Richard-
soirs tent, which we reached at eleven A.M. It
was situated on the western side of an arm of
the lake, and near to the part through which the
Copper-Mine River runs. Our men arrived soon
after us, and in the evening Mr. Wentzel and his
party, with the canoes in excellent condition.
They were much jaded by their fatiguing journey,

VOL. II. K

130 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

and several were lame from swellings of the lower
extremities. The ice on the lake was still six or
seven feet thick, and there was no appearance of
its decay except near the edges ; and as it was
evident that, by remaining here until it shouldbe
removed, we might lose every prospect of suc-
cess in our undertaking, I determined on drag-
ging our stores along its surface, until we should
come to a part of the river where we could em-
bark ; and directions were given this evening for
each man to préparé a train for the conveyance of
his portion of the stores. I may remark here, as
a proof of the strong effect of radiation from the
earth in melting the ice, that the largest holes in
the ice were always formed at the base of the
high and steep cliffs, which abound on the borders
of this lake.

We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped
here, but their families, and the rest of the tribe,
had gone off two days before to the Beth-see-to,
a large lake to the northward, where they intend-
ed passing the summer. Long-legs and Keskar-
rah had departed, to desire the Hook to collect
as much meat as hè could against our arrival at
his lodge. We were extremely distressed to
learn from Dr. Richardson, that Akaitcho and his
party had expended all the ammunition they had

OP THE POLAR SBA. J31

received at Fort Enterprise, without having con-
tributed any supply of provision. The Doctor
had, however, through the assistance of two
hunters hè kept with him, prepared two hundred
pounds of dried meat, which was now our sole
dependance for the journey. On the following
morning I represented to Akaitcho that we had
been greatly disappointed by his conduct, which
was so opposite to the promise of exertion hè had
made, on quitting Fort Enterprise. He offered
many excuses, but finding they were not satisfac-
tory, admitted that the greater part of the am-
munition had been given to those who accom-
panied the womento the Beth-see-to, and promised
to behave better in future. I then told him, that
I intended in future to give them ammunition only
in prcportion to the meat which was brought in,
and that we should commence upon that plan, by,»
supplying him with fifteen balls, and each of the
hunters with ten.

The number of our hunters was now reduced
to five, as two of the most active declined going
any further, their father, who thought himself
dying, having solicited them to remain and close
his eyes. These five were furnished with am-
munition, and sent forward to hunt on the south
border of the lake, with directions to place any

139 JOURNEY TO THE SIIORES

meat they might procure near to the edge of the
lake, and set up marks to guide us to the spots.
Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and three other
men, remained to accompany us. We were much
surprised to perceive an extraordinary difference
in climate in so short an advance to the northward
as fifty miles. The snow here was lying in large
patches on the hills. The dwarf-birch and willows
were only just beginning to open their buds,
which had burst forth at Fort Enterprise many
days previous to our departure. Vegetation
seemed to be three weeks or a month later here
than at that place. We had heavy showers of
rain through the night of the 22d, which melted
the snow, and visibly wasted the ice.

On the 23d, the men were busily employed in
making their trains, and in pounding the meat for
pemmican. The situation of the encampment
was ascertained, latituds 65° 12' 40" N., longi-
tude 113° 8' 25" W., and the variation 43° 4' 20" E.
The arrangements being completed, we purposed
commencing our journcy next morning, but the
vveather was too stormy to admit of our venturing
upon the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon
a heavy fall of snow took place, which was suc-
ceeded by sleet and rain, The north-east gale
continued, but the thermometer rose to 39°.

OF THE P.OLAR SKA. 133

Juiie 25.The wind having abated in the night,
we prepared for starting at an early hour. The
three canoes were mounted on sledges, and nine
men were appointed to conduct them, having the
assistance of two dogs to each canoe. The stores
and provisions were distributed equally among
the rest of our men, except a few small articles
which the Indians carried. The provision con-
sisted of only two bags of pemmican, two of
pounded meat, five of suet, and two small bundies
of dried provision, together with fresh meat suffi-
cient for our supper at night. It was gratifying
to witness the readiness with which the men pre-
pared for and commenced the journey, which
promised to be so very laborious, as each of them
had to drag upwards of one hundred and eighty
pounds on his sledge.

Our course led down the main channel of the
lake, which varied in breadth from half a mile to
three miles; but we proceeded at a slow pace, as
the snow, which feil last night, and still lay on the
lake, very much impeded the sledges. Many
extensive arms branched off on the north side of
this channel, and it was bounded on the south by
a chain of lofty islands. The hills on both sides
rose to the height of six or seven hundred feet,
and high steep cliffs were numerous. Clusters
of pines were occasionally seen in the valleys.

131 .TOURNEY TO THE SHORES

We put up, at eight P.M., in a spot which afforded
us but a few twigs for fuel. The party was much
fatigued, and several of the men were affected by
an inflammation on the inside of the thigh at-
tended with hardness and swelling. The distance
made to-day was six miles.

We started at ten next morning. The day
was extremely hot, and the men were soon jaded ;
their lameness increased very much, and some
not previously affected began to complain. The
dogs too shewed symptoms of great weakness,
and one of them stretched himself obstinately on
the ice, and was obliged to be released from the
harness. Under these circumstances we were
compelled to encamp at an early hour, having
come only four miles. The sufferings of the peo-
ple in this early stage of our journey were truly
discouraging to them, and very distressing to us,
whose situation was comparatively easy. I,
therefore, determined on leaving the third canoe,
which had been principally carried to provide
against any accident happening to the others. By
this we gained three men, to lighten the loads of
those who were most lame, and an additional dog
for each of the other canoes. It was accordingly
properly secured on a stage erected for the pur-
pose near the encampment. Dried meat was
issued for supper, but in the course of the evening

OF THE POLAR SEA. 135

the Indians killed two deer, for which we imme-
diately sent.

The channel of the lake through which we had
passed to-day was bounded on both sides by
islands of considerable height, presenting bold
and rugged scenery. We were informed by our
guide, that a large body of the lake lies to the
northward of a long island which we passed.

Another deer was killed next mofning, but as
the men breakfasted off it before they started, the
additional weight was not materially feit. The
burthens- of the men being considerably lightened
by the arrangements of last evening, the party
walked at the rate of one mile and three quarters
an hour until the afternoon, when our pace was
slackened, as the surface of the ice was more
rough, and our lame companions feit their sores
very galling. At noon we passed a deep bay on
the south side, which is said to receive a river.
Throughout the day's march the huls on each side
of the lake bore a strong resemblance, in height
and form, to those about Fort Enterprise. We
encamped on the north main shore, among some
spruce trees, having walked eight miles and a
half. Three or four fish were caught with lines
through holes, which the water had worn in the
ice. We perceived a light westerly current at
these places.

135 JOURJNTEY TO THE SIIORES

It rained heavily during thenight, and thiswas
succeeded by a dense fog on the morning of the
28th. Being short of provisions we commenced
our journey, though the points of land were not
discernible beyond a short distance. The sur-
faceof the ice, being honeycombed by the recent
rains, presented innumerable sharp points. which
tore our shoes, and lacerated the feet at every
step. The poor dogs, too, marked their path
with their blood.

In the evening the atmosphere became clear,
and, at five P.M., we reached the rapid by which
Point Lake communicates with Red-Rock Lake.
This rapid is only one hundred yards wide, and
we were much disappointed at fmding the Copper-
Mine River such an inconsiderable stream. The
canoes descended the rapid, but the cargoes were
carried across the peninsula, and placed again on
the sledges, as the next lake was still frozen.
We passed an extensive arm, branching to the
eastward, and encamped just below it, on the
western bank, among spruce pines, having walked
six miles of direct distance. The rolled stones
on the beach are principally red clay slate, hence
its Indian appellation, which AVG have retained.

We continued our journey at the usual hour
next morning. At noon the variation was ob-
served to be 47° east. Our attention was after-

OF THE I'OLAÏl SEA. 137

wards directed to some pine branches, scattered
on the ice, which proved to be marks placed by
our hunters, to guide us to the spot where they
had deposited the carcasses of two small deer.
This supply was very seasonable, and the men
cheerfully dragged the additional weight. Akait-
cho, judging from the appearance of the nieat,
thought it had been placed here three days ago,
and that the hunters were considerably in advance.
We put up, at six P. M., near the end of the lake,
having come twelve miles and three quarters, and
found the channel open by which it is connected
with the Rock-nest Lake. A river was pointed
out, bearing south from our encampment, which
is said to rise near Great Marten Lake. Red-
Tock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving
banks are well clothed with wood, and even the
hills, which attain an elevation of four hundred or
five hundred feet, are ornamented, half way up,
with stunted pines.

On June 30, the men having gummed the
canoes, embarked with their burdens to descend
the river ; but we accompanied the Indians about
five miles across a neck of land, when we also
embarked. The river was about two hundred
yards wide, and its course being uninterrupted,
we cherished a sanguine hope of now getting on
more speedily, until we perceived that the waters

133 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

of Rock-nest Lake were still bound by ice, and that
recourse must again be had to the sledges. The
ice was muchdecayed, and the party wereexposed
to great risk of breaking through in making the
traverse. In one part we had to cross an open
channel in the canoes, and in another were com-
pelled to quit the lake, and make a portage
along the land. When the party had got upon
the ice again, our guide evinced much uncertainty
as to the route. He first directed us towards the
west end of the lake; but when we had nearly
gained that point, hè discovered a remarkable
rock to the north-east, named by the Indians the
Rock-nest, and then recollected that the river ran
at its base. Our course was immediately changed
to that direction, but the traverse we had then to
make was more dangerous than the former one.
The ice cracked under us at every step, and the
party were obliged to separate themselves widely
to prevent accidents. We landed at the first
point we could approach, but having found an
ópen channel close to the shore, we were obliged
to ferry the goods across on pieces of ice. The
fresh meat being expended we had to make ano-
ther inroad on our pounded meat. The evening
was very warm, and the musquitoes numerous.
A large fire was made to apprize the hunters of
our advance, The scenery of Rock-nest Lake is

OF THE POLAR SEA. 139

picturesque, its shores are rather low, except at
the Rock's-nest, and two or three eminences on
the eastern side. The only wood is the pine,
which is twenty or thirty feet high, and about
one foot in diameter. Our distance to-day was
six miles.

July l.Our guide directed us to proceed to-
wards a deep bay on the north side of the lake,
where hè supposed we should find the river. In
consequence of the bad state of the ice, we em-
ployed all the different modes of travelling we
had previously followed in attaining this place ;
and, in crossing a point of land, had the misfor-
tune to lose one of the dogs, which set off in
pursuit of some rein-deer. Arriving at the bay,
we only found a stream that feil into it from the
north-east, and looked in vain for the Copper-
Mine River. This circumstance confused the
guide, and hè confessed that hè was now doubt-
ful of the proper route; we, therefore, halted,
and despatched him, with two men, to look for
the river from the top of the high huls near the
Nest-rock. During this delay a slight injury was
repaired, which one of the canoes had received.
We were here amused by the interesting spec-
tacle of a wolf chasing two rein-deer on the ice.
The pursuer being alarmed at the sight of our
men, gave up the chase when nëar to the hind-

149 JOÜRNEY TO THE SHOKES

most, much to our regret, for we were calculating
upon the chance of sharing in his capture.

At four P.M. our men returned, with the agree-
able information that they had seen the river
flowing at the base of the Rock-nest. The canoes
and stores were immediately placed on the ice,
and dragged thither; we tlien embarked, but soon
had to cut through a barrier of drift ice that
blocked up the way. We afterwards descended
two strong rapids, and encamped near to the dis-
charge of a small stream which flows from an
adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River, at this
point, is about two hundred yards wide, and ten
feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a rocky
bottom. The scenery of its banks is picturesque,
the huls shelve to the water-side, and are well
covered with wood, and the surface of the rocks
is richly ornamented with lichens. The Indians
say that the same kind of country prevails as far
as Mackenzie's River in this parallel; but that
the land to the eastward is perfectly barren.
Akaitcho and one of the Indians killed two deer,
wlrich were immediately sent for. T\vo of the
hunters arrived in the night, and we learned that
their companions, instead of being in advance,
as we supposed, were staying at the place where
\ve first found the river open. They had only
seen our fires last evening, and had sent to exa-

OF THE POLAR SEA. Hl

mine who we were. The circumstance of having
passed them was very vexatious, as they had three
deer en cache at their encampment. However, an
Indian was sent to desire those who rcmained to
join us, and bring the meat.

We embarked at nine A.M. on July 2nd, and
descended a succession of strong rapids for three
miles. We were carried along with extraordi-
nary rapidity, shooting over large stones, upon
which a single stroke would have been destruc-
tive to the canoes ; and we were also in danger
of breaking them, from the want of the long
poles which He along their bottoms and equalize
their cargoes, as they plunged very much, and on
one occasion the first canoe was almost fiiled with
the waves. B ut there was no rececling after we
had once launeheel into the stream, and our safety
depended on the skill and dexterity of the bow-
men and steersmen. The banks of the river here
are rocky, and the scenery beautiful; consisting
of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the
edge of the stream, and flanked on both sides at
the distance of three or four miles by a range of
round-backed barren hills, upwards of six hun-
dred feet high. At the foot of the rapids the
high lands receded to a greater distance, and the
river flowed with a more gentle current, in a
wider channel, through a level and open country

142 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

consisting of alluvial sand. In one place the
passage was blocked up by drift ice, still covered
to some depth with snow. A channel for the
canoes was made for some way with the hatchets
and poles; but on reaching the more compact
part we were under the necessity of transporting
the canoes and cargoes across it; an operation of
much hazard, as the snow concealed the numer-
ous holes which the water had made in the ice.
This expansion of the river being mistaken by
the guide for a lake, which hè spoke of as the
last on our route to the sea, we supposed that we
should have no more ice to cross, and therefore
encamped after passing through it, for the pur-
pose of fitting the canoes properly for the voyage,
and to provide poles, which are not only neces-
sary to strengthen them when placed in thé
bottom, but essentially requisite for the safe
management of them in dangerous rapids. The
guide began afterwards to doubt whether the
lake hè meant was not further on, and hè was
sent with two men to examine into the fact, who
returned in the evening with the ^information of
its being below us, but that there was an open
channel through it. This day was very sultry,
several plants appeared in flower.

The men were employed in repairing their
canoes to a late hour, and commenced very early

OF THE POLAR SEA. 143

next morning, as we were desirous of availing
ourselves of every part of this favourable wea-
ther for their operations. The hunters arrived
in the course of the night. It appeared that the
dog which escaped from us two days ago came
into the vicinity of their encampment, howling
piteously ; seeing him without his harness, they
came to the hasty conclusion that our whole party
had perished in a rapid; and throwing away part
of their baggage, and leaving the meat behind
them, they set off with the utmost haste to join
Long-legs. Our messenger met them in their
flight, but too far advanced to admit of their re-
turning for the meat. Akaitcho scolded them
heartily for their thoughtlessness in leaving the
meat, which we so much wanted. They expressed
their regret, and being ashamed of their panic,
proposed to remedy the evil as much as possible
by going forward, without stopping, until they
came to a favourable spot for hunting, which
they expected to do about thirty or forty miles
below our present encampment. Akaitcho ac-
companied them, but previous to setting off hè
renewed his charge that we should be on our
guard against the bears, which was occasioned
by the hunters having fired at one this morning
as they were descending a rapid in their canoe.
As their small canoes would only carry five per-

14* JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

sons, two of the hunters had to walk in turns
along the banks.

In our rambles round the encampment, we
witnessed with pleasure the progress which the
vegetation had made within the few last warm
days ; most of the trees had put forth their leaves,
and several fiowers ornamented the moss-covered
ground; many of the smaller summer birds were
observed in the woods, and a variety of ducks,
gulls, and plovers, were seen on the banks of the
river. The river is about three hundred yards
wide at this part, is decp and flows over a bed
of alluvial sand. We caught some trout of con-
siderable size with our lines, and a few white
fish in the nets, which maintained us, with alittle
assistance from the pemmican. The repair of our
canoes was completed this evening. Previous to
-embarking I issued an order that no rapid should
in future be descenJed until the bpwmen had
examined it, and decided upon its being safe to
run. V/herever the least danger was to be ap-
prehended, or the crew had to disembark for the
purpose of lightening the canoe, the ammunition,
guns and Instruments, were always to be put out
and carried along the bank; that we might be
provided with the means of subsisting ourselves,
in case of any accident befalling the canoes.

The situation of our eneampment was ascer-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 145

tained to be 65° 43'28" N., longitude 114° 26'
45" W., and the variation 42° 17' 22" E.

At four in the morning of July 4th we em-
barked and descended a succession of very agi-
tated rapids, but took the precaution of landing
the articles mentioned yesterday, wherever there
appeared any hazard; notwith standing all our
precautions the leading canoe struck with great
force against a stone, and the bark was split, but
this injury was easily repaired, and we regretted
only the loss of time. At eleven we came to an
expansion of the river where the current ran with
less force, and an accumulation of drift ice had, in
consequence, barred the channel; over which the
canoes and cargoes were carried. The ice in many
places adhered to the banks, and projected in
wide ledges several feet thick over the stream,
which had hollowed them out beneath. On one
occasion as the people were embarking from one
of these ledges, it suddenly gave way, and three
men were precipitated into the water, but were
rescued without further damage than a sound
ducking, and the canoe fortunately, (and nar-
rowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one
of the Indians sitting on the east bank of the river,
we landed, and having learned from him that
Akaitcho and the hunters had gone in pursuit of

VOL. II. L

146 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

a herd of musk oxen, we encamped, having come
twenty-four miles and a half.

In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable
intelligence of their having killed eight cows, of
which four were full grown. All the party were
immediately despatched to bring in this season-
able supply. A young cow irritated by the firing
of the hunters ran down to the river, and passed
close to me when walking at a short distance from
the tents. I fired and wounded it, when the animal
instantly turned, and ran at me, but I avoided its
fury by jumping aside and gettmg upon an ele*
vated piece of ground. In the mean time some
people came from the tents, and it took to flight.

The musk oxen, like the bufFalo, herd together
in bands, and generally frequent the barren
grounds during the summer months, keeping
near to the banks of the rivers, but retire to the
woods in winter. They seem to be less watch-
ful than most other wild animals, and when
grazing are not difficult to approach, provided the
hunters go against the wind ; when two or three
men get so near a herd as to fire at them from
different points, these animals instead of sepa-
rating or running away, huddle closer together,
and several are generally killed; but if the wound
is not mortal they become enraged and dart in

OP THE POLAR SEA. 147

the most furieus manner at the hunters, who must
be very dexterous to evade them. They can de-
fend themselves by their powerful horns against
the wolves and bears, which as the Indians say,
they not unfrequently kill.

The musk oxen feed on the same substances
with the rein-deer, and the prints of the feet of
these two animals are so much alike, that it re-
quires the eye of an experienced hunter to dis-
tinguish them. The largest of these animals
killed by us did not exceed in weight three hun-
dred pounds. The flesh has a musky disagree-
able flavour, particularly when the animal is lean,
which unfortunately for us was the case with all
that were now killed by us.

During this day's march the river varied in
breadth from one hundred to two hundred feet,
and except in two open spaces, a very strong
current marked a deep descent the whole way.
It flows over a bed of gravel, of which also its
immediate banks are composed. Near to our
encampment it is bounded by cliffs of fine sand
from one hundred to two hundred feet high.
Sandy plains extend on a level with the summit
of these cliffs, and at the distance of six or seven
miles are terminated by ranges of hills eight hun-
dred or one thousand feet high. The grass on
these plains affords excellent pasturage for the

L 2

148 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

musk oxen, and they generally abound here. The
hunters added two more to our stock in the course
of the night. As we had now more meat than
the party could consume fresh, we delayed our
voyage next day for the purpose of drying it.
The hunters were supplied with more ammuni-
tion, and sent forward; but Akaitcho, his bro-
ther, and another Indian remained with us.

It may here be proper to mention, that the
officers had treated Akaitcho more distantly since
our departure from Point Lake, for the purpose
of shewing him their opinion of his misconduct.
The diligence in hunting, however, which hè had
evinced at this place, induced us to receive him
more familiarly when hè came to the tent this
evening. During our conversation hè endeavoured
to excite suspicions in our minds against the
Hook, by saying, " I am aware that you consider
me the worst man of my nation; but I know the
Hook to be a great rogue, and, I think, hè will
disappoint you."

On the morning of the 6th we embarked, and
descended a series of rapids, having twice un-
loaded the canoes where the water was shallow.
After passing the mouth of the Fairy* Lake

* This is an Indian name. The Northern Indian fairies are six
inches high, lead a life similar to the Indians, and are excellent
huuters. Those who have had the good fortune to fall in with their

OF THE POLAR SEA. 149

River the rapids ceased. The main stream was
then about three hundred yards wide, and gene-
rally deep, though, in one part, the channel was
interrupted by several sandy banks, and low
alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows
between banks of sand thinly wooded, and as we
advanced the barren hills approached the water's
edge.

At ten we rejoined our hunters, who had killed
a deer, and halted to breakfast. We sent them
forward; one of them, who was walking along
the shore afterwards, fired upon two brown bears,
and wounded one of them, which instantly turned
and pursued him. His companions in the canoes
put ashore to his assistance, but did not succeed
in killing the bears, which fled upon the reinforce-
ment coming up. During the delay thus occa-
sioned we overtook them, and they continued
with us during the rest of the day.

We encaniped at the foot of a lofty range of
mountains, which appear to be from one thousand
two hundred to one thousand five hundred feet
high; they are in general round backed, but the
outline is not even, being interrupted by craggy

tiny encampmcnts have been kindly treated, and regaled on venison.
We did not learn with certainty whether the existence of these
delig-htful crcatures is knovvn from Indian tradition, or whether the
Indians owe their knowledge of them to their intercourse with the
traders, but think the furuier probable.

150 JOURNEY TO THE SIIORES

conical eminences. This is the first ridge of hills
we have seen in this country, that deserves the
appellation of a mountain range ; it is probably
a continuation of the Stony Mountains crossed by
Hearne. Many plants appeared in full flower
near the tents, and Dr. Richardson gathered some
high up on the hills. The distance we made to-
day was fifty miles.

There was a hoar frost in the night, and the
temperature, at four next morning, was 40°: em-
barking at that hour, we glided quickly down the
stream, and by seven arrived at the Hook's en-
campment, which was placed on the summit of a
lofty sand cliff, whose base was washed by the
river. This chief had with him only three
hunters, and a few old men and their families,
the rest of his band having remained at their
snares in Bear Lake. His brother, Long-legs,
and our guide, Keskarrah, who had joined him
three days before, had communicated to him our
want of provision, and we were happy to find
that, departing from the general practice of Indian
chiefs, hè entered at once upon the business,
without making a long speech. As an introduc-
tory mark of our regard, I decorated him with a
medal similar to those which had been given to
the other leaders. The Hook began by stating,
" that hè was aware of our being destitute of

OF THE POLAR SEA. 151

provision, and of the great need we had of an
ample stock, to enable us to execute our under-
taking; and his regret, that the unusual scarcity
of animals this season, together with the circum-
stance of his having only just received a supply
of ammunition from Fort Providence, had pre-
vented him from collecting the quantity of meat
hè had wished to do for our use. The amount,
indeed," hè said, " is very small, but I will cheer-
fully give you what I have: we are too much
indebted to the white people, to allow them to
want food on our lands, whilst we have any to
give them. Our families can live on fish until
we can procure more meat, but the season is too
short to allow of your delaying, to gain subsist-
ence in that manner." He immediately desired,
aloud, that the women should bring all the meat
they had to us; and we soon collected sufficient
to make three bags and a half of pemmican, be-
sides some dried meat and tongues. We were
truly delighted by this prompt and cheerful be-
haviour, and would gladly have rewarded the
kindness of himself and his companions by some
substantial present, but we were limited by the
scantiness of our store to a small donation of
fifteen charges of ammunition to each of the chiefs.
In return for the provision they accepted notes on
the North-West Company, to be paid at Fort

152 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Providence; and to these was subjoined an order
for a few articles of clothing, as an additional
present. I then endeavoured to prevail upon the
Hook to remain in this vicinity with his hunters
until the autumn, and to make deposits of pro-
vision in different parts of the course to the sea,
as a resource for our party, in the event of our
being compelled to return by this route. He re-
quired time, however, to consider this matter,
and promised to give me an answer next day.
I was rejoiced to find him then prepared to meet
my wish, and the following plan was agreed
upon:As the animals abound, at all times, on
the borders of Bear Lake, they promised to re-
main on the east side of it until the month of
November, at that spot which is nearest to the
Copper-Mine River, from whence there is a com-
munication by a chain of lakes and portages.
There the principal deposit of provision was to be
made; but during the summer the hunters were
to be employed in putting up supplies of dried
meat at convenient distances, not only along the
communication from this river, but also upon its
banks, as far down as the Copper Mountain.
They were also to place particular marks to guide
our course to their lodges. We contracted to repay
them liberally, whether we returned by this way
or not; if we did, they were to aceompany us to

OF THE POLAR S E A. 153

Fort Providence to receive the reward; and, at
any rate, I promised to send the necessary docu-
ments by Mr. Wentzel, from the sea-coast, to en-
sure their having an ample remuneration. With
this arrangement they were perfectly satisfied,
and we could not be less so, knowing they had
every motive for fulfilling their promises, as the
place they had chosen to remain at is their usual
hunting-ground. The uncommon anxiety these
chiefs expressed for our safety, appeared to us as
likely to prompt them to every care and attention,
and I record their expressions with gratitude.
After representing the numerous hardships we
should have to encounter in the strongest manner,
though in language similar to what we had often
heard from our friend Akaitcho, they earnestly en-
treated we would be constantly on our guard against
thetreacheryof theEsquimaux; and no less forcibly
desired we would not proceed far along thecoast, as
they dreaded the consequences of our being ex-
posed to a tempestuous sea in canoes, and having
to endure the cold of the autumn on a shore desti-
tute of fuel. The Hook, having been an invalid
for several years, rejoiced at the opportunity of
consulting Dr. Richardson, who immediately
gave him advice, and supplied him with me-
dicine.

The pounded meat and fat were converted
into pemmican, preparatory to our voyage.

154 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The result of our observations at the Hook's
encampmerit was, latitude 66° 45' 11" N., longi-
tude 115° 42' 23" W., variation of the compass
46° 7' 30" E.

We embarked at eleven to proceed on our
journey. Akaitcho and his brother, the guide,
being in the first canoe, and old Keskarrah in the
other. We wished to dispense with the further
attendance of two guides, and made a proposition
that either of them might remain here, but neither
would relinquish the honour of escorting the Ex-
pedition to the sea. One of our hunters, how-
ever, was less eager for this honour, and pre-
ferred remaining with Green Stockings, Keskar-
rah's fascinating daughter. The other four, with
the Little Singer, accompanied us, two of them
conducting their small canoes in turns, and the
rest walking along the beach.

The river flows over a bed of sand, and winds in
an uninterrupted channel of from three quarters
to a mile broad, between two ranges of hills,
which are pretty even in their outline, and round
backed, but having rather steep acchvities. The
immediate borders of the stream consisted either
of high banks of sand, or steep gravel cliffs ; and
sometimes, where the hills receded to a little dis-
tance, the intervening¹ space was occupied by
high sandy ridges.

At three P.M., after passing along the foot of

OP THE POLAR SEA. 155

a high range of hills, we arrived at the portage
leading to the Bear Lake, to which we have pre-
viously alluded. lts position is very remarkable,
being situated at the most westerly part of the
Copper-Mine River, and at the point where it
résumés a northern course, and forces a passage
through the lofty ridge of mountains, to which it
had run parallel for the last thirty miles. As the
Indians travel from hence, with their families, in
three days to the point where they propose stay-
ing for us, the distance, I think, cannot exceed
forty miles ; and, admitting the course to be due
west, which is the direction the guide pointed,
that distance would place the eastern part of
Bear Lake in 118|° W. longitude.

Beyond this spot the river is diminished in
breadth, and a succession of rapids are formed;
but as the water was deep, we passed through
them without discharging any part of the cargoes.
It still runs between high ranges' of mountains,
though its actual boundaries are banks of mud
mixed with clay, which are clothed with stunted
pines. We picked up a deer which the hunters
had shot, and killed another from the canoe; and
also received an addition to our stock of provision
of seven young geese, which the hunters had
beaten down with their sticks. About six P.M.
we perceived a mark on the shore, which on ex-

156 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

amination, was found to have been recently put
up by some Indians ; and, on proceeding further,
we discerned strenger proofs of their being near
to that spot; we, therefore, encamped, and made
a large fire as a signal, which they answered in a
similar way. Mr. Wentzel was immediately sent,
in expectation of getting provision from them.
On his return, we learned that the party con-
sisted of three old Copper Indians, with their
families, who had supported themselves with the
bow and arrow since last autumn, not having
visited Fort Providence for more than a year;
and so successful had they been, that they were
enabled to supply us with upwards of seventy
pounds of dried meat, and six moose skins fit for
making shoes, which were the more valuable, as
we were apprehensive of being barefooted before
the journey could be completed. The evening
was sultry, and the musquitoes appeared in great
numbers. The distance made to-day twenty-five
miles.

On the following morning we went down to
these Indians, and delivered to them notes on the
North-West Company, for the meat and skins
they had furnished; and we had then the mortifi-
cation of learning, that not having people to
carry a considerable quantity of pounded meat,
which they had intended for us, they had left it

OF THE POLAR SEA. 157

upon the Bear Lake Portage. They promised,
however, to get it conveyed to the banks of this
river before we could return, and we rewarded
them with a present of knives and files.

After re-embarking we continued to descend
the river, which was now contracted between lofty
banks to about one hundred arid twenty yards
wide ; the current was very strong. At eleven we
came to a rapid, which had been the theme of dis-
course with the Indians for many days, and which
they had described to us as impassable in canoes.
The river here descends for three quarters of a
mile, in a deep, but narrovv and crooked, channel,
which it has cut through the foot of a hill of five
hundred or six hundred feet high. It is confined
between perpendicular cliffs reserabling stone
walls, varying in height from eighty to one hun-
dred and fifty feet, on which lies a mass of fine
sand. The body of the river pent within this
narrow chasm, dashed furiously round the pro-
jecting rocky columns, and discharged itself at the
northern extremity in a sheet of foam. The
canoes, after discharging part of their cargoes,
ran through this defile without sustaining any in-
jury. Accurate sketches of this interesting scène
were taken by Messrs. Back and Hood. Soon
after passing this rapid, we perceived the hun-
ters running up the east side of the river, to pre-

158 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

vent us from disturbing a herd of musk oxen,
which they had observed grazing on the opposite
bank; we put them across, and they succeeded
in killing six, upon which we encamped for the
purpose of drying the meat. The country below
the Rocky Defile Rapid consists of sandy plains,
broken by srnall conical eminences also of sand ;
and bounded to the westward by a continuation
of the mountain chain, which we had crossed at
the Bear Lake Portage; and to the eastward
and northward, at the distance of twelve miles,
by the Copper Mountains, which Mr. Hearne
visited. The plains are crowned by several
clumps of moderately large spruces, about thirty
feet high.

This evening the Indians made a large fire, as
a signal to the Hook's party that we had passed
the terrific rapid in safety.

The position of our encampment was ascer-
tained to be, latitude 67° l' 10" N., longitude
116° 27' 28" W., variation of the compass 44° 11'
43" E., dip of the needie 87° 31' 18".

Some thunder showers retarded the drying of
the meat, and our embarkation was delayed next
day. The hunters were sent forward to hunt at
the Copper Mountains, under the superintendence
of Adam, the interpreter, who received strict in-
junctions not to permit them to make any large

OF THE POLAR SEA. 159

fires, lest they should alarm straggling parties of
the Esquimaux.

The musquitoes were now very numerous and
annoying, but we consoled ourselves with the
hope that their season would be short.

On the llth we started at three A.M., and as
the guide had represented the river below our
encampment to be full of shoals, some of the
men were directed to walk along the shore, but
they were assailed so violently by the musquitoes,
as to be compelled to embark very soon ; and we
afterwards passed over the shallow parts by the
aid of the poles, without experiencing much in-
terruption. The current ran very rapidly, having
been augmented by the waters of the Mouse
River and several small streams. We rejoined
our hunters at the foot of the Copper Mountains,
and found they had killed three musk oxen.
This circumstance determined us on encamping
to dry the meat, as there was wood at the spot.
We availed ourselves of this delay to visit the
Copper Mountains in search of specimens of the
ore, agreeably to my instructions ; and a party of
twenty-one persons, consisting of the oiScers,
some of the voyagers, and all the Indians, set off
on that excursion. We travelled for nine hours
over a considerable space of ground, but found

160 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

only a few small pieces of native copper. The
range we ascended was on the west side of the
river, extending W.N.W. and E.S.E. The moun-
tains varied in height from one thousand two
hundred to one thousand five hundred feet.
The uniformity of the mountains is interrupted
by narrow valleys traversed by small streams.
The best specimens of metal we procured
were among the stones in these valleys, and
it was in such situations that our guides de-
sired us to search most carefully. It would ap-
pear, that when the Indians see any sparry sub-
stance projecting above the surface, they dig
there ; but they have no other rule to direct them,
and have never found the metal in its original re-
pository. Our guides reported that they had
found copper in large pieces in every part of this
range, for two days' walk to the north-west, and
that the Esquimaux come hither to search for it.
The annual visits which the Copper Indians were
accustomed to make to these mountains, when
most of their weapons and utensils were made of
copper, have been discontinued since they have
been enabled to obtain a supply of ice chisels
and other instruments of iron by the establish-
ment of trading posts near to their hunting
grounds. That none of those who accompanied

OF THE POLAR SEA. WI

u s had visited them for many yeaxs was evident,
from their ignorance of the spots most abundant
in metal.

The impracticability of navigating the river
upwards from the sea, and the want of wood for
forming an establishment, would prove insuper-
able objections to rendering the collection of
cópper at this part worthy of mercantile specula-
tion.

We had the opportunity of surveying the coun-
try from several elevated positions. Two or
three small lakes only were visible, still partly
frozen; and much snow remained on the moun-
tains. The trees were reduced to a scanty fringe
on the borders of the river, and every side was
beset by naked mountains.

The day was unusually warm, and, therefore,
favourable for drying the meat. Our whole stock
of provision, calculated for preservation was suf-
ficient for fourteen days, without any diminution
of the ordinary allowance of three pounds to each
man per day. The situation of our tents was
67° 10' 30" N., longitude 116° 25' 45" W.'

June 12.The Indians knowing the course of
the river below this point to be only a succession
of rapids, declined taking their canoes any fur-
ther ; but as I conceived one of them would be
required, should we be compelled to walk along

Vot. II. M

162 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the coast, two of our men were appointed to con-
duct it.

As we were now entering on the confines of the
Esquimaux country, our guides recommended us
to be cautious in lighting fires, lest we should
discover ourselves, adding that the same reason
would lead themto travel asmuchaspossible in the
valleys, and to avoid crossing the tops of the hills.
We embarked at six A.M., taking with us only
old Keskarrah. The other Indians walked along
the banks of the river. Throughout this day's
voyage the current was very strong, running four
or five miles an hour; but the navigation was
tolerable, and we had to lighten the canoes only
once, in a contracted part of the river where the
waves were very high. The river is in many
places eonfined between perpendicular walls of
rock to one hundred and fifty yards in width, and
there the rapids were most agitated, Large
masses of ice twelve or fourteen feet thick, were
still adhering to many parts of the bank, indicat-
ing the tardy departure of winter from this in-
hospitable land, but the earth around them was
rich with vegetation. In the evening two musk-
oxen being seen on the beach, were pursued and
killed by our men. Whilst we were waiting to
embark the meat, the Indians rejoined us, and
reported they had been attacked by a bear, which

OP THE POLAR SEA. 163

sprung upon them whilst they were conversing
together. His attack was so sudden that they
had not time to level their guns properly, and they
all missed except Akaitcho, who, les s confused
than the rest, took deliberate aim, and shot the
animal dead. They do not eat the flesh of the
bear, but knowing that we had no such prejudice,
they brought us some of the choice pieces, which
upon trial we found to be excellent meat.

The Indians having informed us that we were
now within twelve miles of the rapid where the
Esquimaux have invariably been found, we
pitched our tents on the beach, under the shelter
of a high hul whose precipitous side is washed
by the river, intending to send forward some per-
sons to determine the situation of their present
abode. Some vestiges of an old Esquimaux en-
campment were observed near the tents, and the
stumps of the trees bore marks of the stone
hatchets they use. A strict watch was appointed,
consisting of an officer, four Canadians, and an
Indian, and directions were given for the rest of
the party to sleep with their arms by their side.
That as little delay as possible might be experi-
enced in opening a communication with the Es-
quimaux, we immediately commenced the ar-
rangements for sending forward persons to dis-
cover whether there were any in our vicinity.

154 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Akaitcho and the guides proposed that two of the
hunters should be despatched on this service, who
had extremely quick sight, and were accustomed
to act as scouts, an office which required equal
caution and circumspection. A strong objection,
however, lay against this plan in the probability
of their being discovered by a straggling hunter,
which would be destructive to every hope of ac-
commodation. It was therefore determined to
send Augustus and Junius, who were very desir-
ous to undertake the service. These adventurous
men proposed to go armed only with pistols con-
cealed in their dress, and furnished with beads,
looking-glasses, and other articles, that they might
conciliate their countrymen by presents. We
could not divest our minds of the apprehension,
that it might be a service of much hazard if the
Esquimaux were as hostile to strangers as the
Copper Indians have invariably represented them
to be ; and we feit great reluctance in exposing
our two little interpreters, who had rendered them-
selves dear to the whole party, to the most dis-
tant chance of receiving injury ; but this course
of proceeding appeared in their opinion and our
owa to offer the only chance of gaining an inter-
view. Though not insensible to the danger, they
cheerfully prepared for their mission, and clothed
themselves in Esquimaux dresses, which had been

OP THE POLAR SEA. 165

made for the purpose at Fort Enterprise. Au-
gustus was desired to make his presents, and to
teil the Esquimaux that the white men had come
to make peace between them and all their ene-
mies, and also to discover a passage by which
every article of which they stood in need might
be brought in large ships. He was not to men-
tion that we were accompanied by the Indians,
but to endeavour to prevail on some of the Esqui-
maux to return with him. He was directed to
come back immediately if there were no lodges at
the rapid.

The Indians were not suffered to move out of
our sight, but in the evening we permitted two of
them to cross the river in pursuit of a musk-ox,
which they killed on the-beach, and returned im-
mediately. The officers prompted by an anxious
solicitude for Augustus and Junius crawled up
frequently to the summit of the mountain, to watch
their return. The view, however, was not ex-
tensive, being bounded at the distance of eight
miles by a range of huls similar to the Copper
Mountains, but not so lofty. The night came
without bringing any intelligence of our messen-
gers, and our fears for their safety increased with
the length of their absence.

As every one had been interested in the wel-
fare of these men through their vivacity and good-

168 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

nature, and for the assistance they had cheerfully
rendered in bearing their portion of whatever
labour might be going on, their detention formed
the subject of all our conversation, and numerous
conjectures were hazarded as to the cause.

Dr. Richardson having the first watch, had gone
to the summit of the hill, and remained seated
contemplating the river that washed the precipice
under his feet, long after dusk had hid distant
objects from his view. His thoughts were, per-
haps, far distant from the surrounding objects,
when hè was roused by an indistinct noise behind
him, and on looking round, perceived that nine
white wolves had ranged themselves in form of a
crescent, and were advancing, apparently with
the intention of driving him into the river. On
his rising up they halted, and when hè advanced
they made way for his passage down to the tents.
He had his gun in his hand but forebore to fire,
lest there should be Esquimaux in the neighbour-
hood. During Mr. WentzePs middle watch the
wolves appeared repeatedly on the summit of the
hill, and at one time they succeeded in driving a
deer over the precipice. The animal was stunned
by the fall, but recovering itself, swam across the
stream, and escaped up the river. I may remark
here that at midnight it was tolerably dark in the
valley of the river at this time, but that an object

OF THE POLAR SEA. 167

on the eminence above could be distinctly seen
against the sky.

The following observations were taken at this
encampment, latitude 67° 23' 14" N., longitude
116° 6' 51" W., variation 49° 46' 24" E. Ther-
mometer 75° at three P.M. Sultry weather.

Augustus and Junius not having returned next
morning, we were more alarmed respecting them,
and determined on proceeding to find out the
cause of their detention, but it was eleven A.M.
before we could prevail upon the Indians to re-
main behind, which we wished them to do, fear-
ing that the Esquimaux might suspect our inten-
tions, if they were seen in our suite. We promised
to send for them when we had paved the way for
their reception, but Akaitcho ever ready to augur
misfortune, expressed his belief that our mes-
sengers had been killed, and that the Esquimaux
warned of our approach, were lying in wait for
us, and " although," said hè, " your party may
be sufficiently strong to repulse any hostile
attack, my band is too weak when separated from
you to offer an effectual resistance ; and there-
fore we are determined to go on with you, or to
return t o our lands." After much argument, how-
ever, hè yielded to our request, and agreed to
stay behind provided Mr. Wentzel would remain
with him. This gentleman was accordingly left

168 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with a Canadian attendant, and they promised
not to pass a range of hills then in view to the
northward, unless we sent notice to them.

The river during the whole of this day's voy-
age flowed between alternate cliffs of loose sand
intermixed with gravel, and red sand stone rocks,
and was everywhere shallow and rapid. As its
course was very crooked, much time was spent
in examining the different rapids previous to
running them, but the canoes descended them,
except at a single place, without any difficulty.
Most of the officers and half the men marched
along the land to lighten the canoes, and recon-
noitre the country, each person being armed with
a gun and a dagger. Arriving at a range of
mountains which had terminated our view yes-
terday, we ascended it with much eagerness, ex-
pecting to see the rapid that Mr. Hearne visited
near to its base, and to gain a view of the sea;
but our disappointment was proportionably great,
when we beheld beyond, a plain similar to that
we had just left, terminated by another range of
trap hills, between whose tops the summits of
some distant blue mountains appeared. Our
reliance on the information of the guides, which
had been for some time shaken was now quite at
an end, and we feared that the sea was still far
distant. The flat country here is covered with

OF THE POLAR SEA. 1C9

grass, and is devoid of the large stones, so frequent
in the barren grounds, but the ranges of trap hills
which seem to intersect it at regular distances
are quite barren. A few decayed stunted pines
were standing on the borders of the river. In
the evening we had the gratification of meeting
Junius, who was hastening back to inform us
that they had found four Esquimaux tents at the
Fall which we recognised to be the one described
by Mr. Hearne. The inmates were asleep at the
time of their arrival, but rose soon afterwards,
and then Augustus presented himself, and had
some conversation across the river. He told
them the white people had come, who would
make them very useful presente. The informa-
tion of our arrival, seemed to alarm them very
much, but as the noise of the rapid prevented
them from hearing distinctly, one of them came
nearer to him in his canoe, and received the rest
of the message. He would not, however, land on
his side of the river, but returned to their tents
without receiving the present. His language
differed in some respects from Augustus's, but
they understood each other tolerably well. Au-
gustus trusting for a supply of provision to the
Esquimaux, had neglected to carry any with him,
and this was the main cause of Junius's return.

170 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

We now encamped, having come fourteen miles.
After a few hours' rest Junius set olT again to re-
join his companion, being accompanied by Hep-
burn, who was directed to remain about two miles
above the fall, to arrest the canoes on their pas-
sage, lest we should too suddenly surprise the
Esquimaux. About ten P. M. we were mortified by
the appearance of the Indians withMr. Wentzel,who
had in vain endeavoured to restrainthem from fol-
lowing us. The only reason assigned by Akaitcho
for this conduct was, that hè wished a re-assurance
of my promise to establish peace between his
nation and the Esquimaux. I took this occasion
of pointing out again the necessity of their remain-
ing behind, until we had obtained the confidence
and good-will of their enemies. After supper
Dr. Richardson ascended a lofty hul about three
miles from the encampment, and obtained the
first view of the sea ; it appeared to be covered
with ice. A large promontory, which I named
Cape Hearne, bore N.E., and its lofty mountains
proved to be the blue land we had seen in the
forenoon, and which had led us to believe the sea
was still far distant. He saw the sun set a few
minutes before midnight from the same elevated
situation. It did not rise during the half hour
hè remained there, but before hè reached

OF THE POLAK SEA. 171

the encampment its rays gilded the tops of the
huls.

The night was warm and we were much an-
noyed by the musquitoes.

June 15.We this morning experienced as
much difficulty as before in prevailing upon the
Indians to remain behind, and they did not con-
sent to do so until I had assured them that they
should lose the reward which had been promised,
if they proceeded any farther, until we had pre-
pared the Esquimaux to receive them. We left
a Canadian with them, and proceeded on our
journey, not without apprehension that they would
follow us, and derange our whole plan by their
obstinacy. Two of the officers and a party of the
men walked on the shore, to lighten the canoes.
The river, in this part, flows between high and
stone cliffs, reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving
banks of white clay, and is full of shoals and dan-
gerous rapids, One of these was termed Escape
Rapid, from both the canoes having narrowly
escaped foundering in its high waves. We had
entered the rapid before we were aware, and the
steepness of the cliflfs preventing us from landing,
we were indebted to the swiftness of our descent
for our preservation. Two waves made a com-
plete breach over the canoes; a third would in
all probability have filled and overset them, which

172 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

must have proved fatal to every one in them.
The powder fortunately escaped the water, which
was soon discharged when we reached the bottom
of the rapid. At noon we perceived Hepburn
lying on the left bank of the river, and landed
immediately to receive his Information. As hè
represented the water to be shoal the whole way
to the rapid (below which the Esquimaux Were,)
the shore party were directed to continue their
march to a sandy bay at the head of the fall, and
there await the arrival of the canoes. The land
in the neighbourhood of the rapid, is of the most
singular form: large irregular sand hills bound-
ing both banks, apparently so unconnected that
they resemble icebergs ; the country around them
consisting of high round green hills. The river
becomes wide in this part, and full of shoals,
but we had no difficulty in finding a channel
through them. On regaining the shore party,
we regretted to find that some of the men had
incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills,
just at the time Augustus was conversing with
one of the Esquimaux, who had again approached
in his canoe, and was almost persuaded to land.
The unfortunate appearance of so many people
at this instant, revived his fears, and hè crossed
over to the eastern bank of the river, and fled
with the whole of his party. We learned from

OF THE POLAR SEA. 173

Augustus that this party, consisting of four men
and as many women, had manifested a friendly
disposition. Two of the former were very tall.
The man who first came to speak to him, inquired
the number of canoes that we had with us, ex-
pressed himself to be not displeased at our ar-
rival, and desired him to caution us not to attempt
running the rapid, but to make the portage on
the west side of the river. Notwithstanding this
appearance of confidence and satisfaction, it seems
they did not consider their situation to be free
irom danger, as they retreated the first night, to
an island somewhat farther down the river, and
in the morning they returned and threw down
their lodges, as if to give notice to any of their
nation that might arrive, that there was an enemy
in the neighbourhood. From seeing all their
property strewed about, and ten of their dogs
left, we entertained the hope that these poor
people would return after their first alarm had
subsided; and therefore I determined on remain-
ing until the next day, in the expectation of see-
ing them, as I considered the opening of an early
communication to be a matter of the greatest im-
portance in our state of absolute ignorance re-
specting the sea-coast. The canoes and cargoes
were carried across the portage, and we encamped
on the north side of it. We sent Augustus and

174 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Junius across the river to look for the runaways,
but their search was fruitless. They put a few
pieces of iron and trinkets in their canoes, which
were lying on the beach. We also sent some
men to put up the stages of fish, and secure them
as much as possible from the attacks of the dogs.
Under the covering of their tents were observed
some stone kettles and hatchets, a few fish spears
made of copper, two small bits of iron, a quantity
of skins, and some dried salmon, which was
covered with maggots, and half putrid. The
entrails of the fish were spread out to dry. A
great many skins of small birds were hung up to
a stage, and even two mice were preserved in the
same way. Thus it would appear that the neces-
sities of these poor people induce them to pre-
serve every article that can be possibly used as
food. Several human skulls which bore the
marks of violence, and many bones were strewed
about the ground near to the encampment, and as
the spot exactly answers the description given by
Mr. Hearne, of the place where the Chipewyans
who accompanied him perpetrated the dreadful
massacre on the Esquimaux, we had no doubt of
thi& being the place, notwithstanding the dif-
ference in its position as to latitude and longitude
given by him, and ascertained by our observa-
tion. We have, therefore, preserved the appel-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 175

lation of Bloody Fall, which hè bestowed upon
it. lts situation by our observations is, in latitude
67° 42' 35" N., longitude 115° 49' 33" W., varia-
tion 50° 20' 14" E. This rapid is a sort of shelv-
ing cascade, about three hundred yards in length,
having a descent of from ten to fifteen feet. It is
bounded on each side by high walls of red sand
stone, upon which rests a series of lofty green
huls. On its north side, close to the east
bank, is the low rocky island which the Esqui-
maux had. deserted. The surrounding scenery
waa accurately delineated in a sketch taken
by Mr. Hood. We caught forty excellent fish
of the salmon and white fish species in a
single net below the rapid. We had not seen
any trees during this day's journey; our fuel
consisted of small willows and pieces of dried
wood that were picked up near to the en-
campment. The ground is well clothed with
grass, and nourishes most of the shrubs and
berry-bearing plants that we have seen north
of Fort Enterprise; and the country altogether
has a richer appearance than the barren lands
of the Copper Indians. We had a distinct
view of the sea from the summit of a hill behind
the tents; it appeared choked with ice and full
of islands»

On the morning of the 16th three men were
sent up the river to search for dried wood to

176 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

make floats for the nets. Adam, the interprater,
was also despatched with a Canadian, to inform
Akaitcho of the flight of the Esquimaux. We
were preparing to go down to the sea in one of
the canoes, leaving Mr. Back to await the return
of the men who were absent; but just as the crew
were putting the canoe in the water, Adam re-
turned in the utmost consternation, and informed
us that a party of Esquimaux were pursuing the
men whom we had sent to collect floats. The
orders for embarking were instantly counter-
manded, and we went with a party of men to
their rescue. We soon met our peopie returning
at a slow pace, and learned that they had come
unawares upon the Esquimaux party, which con-
sisted of six men, with their women and children,
who were travelling towards the rapid with a
considerable number of dogs carrying their bag-
gage. The women hid themselves on the first
alarm, but the men advanced, and stopping at
some distance from our men, began to dance in
a circle, tossing up their hands in the air, and
accompanying their motions with much shoutirig,
to signify, I conceive, their desire of peace. Our
men saluted them by pulling off their hats, and
making bows, but neither party was willing to
approach the other; and, at length, the Esqui-
maux retired to the hul, from whence they had
descended when first seen. We proceeded in

OF THE POLAR SEA. 177

the hope of gaining an interview with them, but
lest our appearance in a body should alarm them,
we advanced in a long line, at the head of which
was Augustus. We were led to their baggage,
which they had deserted, by the howling of the
dogs; and on the summit of the hill we found,
lying behirid a stone, an old man, who was too
infirm to effect his escape with the rest. He was
much terrified when Augustus advanced, and
probably expected immediate death; but that the
fatal blow might not be unrevenged, hè seized
his spear, and made a thrust with it at his sup-
posed enemy. Augustus, however, easily re-
pressed his feeble effort, and soon calmed his
fears by presenting him with some pieces of iron,
and assuring him of his friendly intentions. Dr.
Richardson and I then joined them, and, after
receiving our presents, the old man was quite
composed, and became communicative. His
dialect differed from that used by Augustus, but
they understood each other tolerably well.

It appeared that his party consisted of eight
men and their families, who were returning from
a hunting excursion with dried meat. After
being told who we were, hè said, that hè had
heard of white people from different parties of his
nation which resided on the sea-coast to the east-
ward; and to our inquiries respecting the pro-

VOL. II. N

178 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

vision and fuel we might expect to get on our
voyage, hè informed us that the rein-deer frequent
the coast during summer, the fish are plentiful at
the mouths of the rivers, the seals are abundant,
but there are no sea-horses nor whales, although
hè remembered one of the latter, which had been
killed by some distant tribe, having been driven
on shore on his part of the coast by a gale of
wind. That musk oxen were to be found a little
distance up the rivers, and that we should get
drift wood along the shore. He had no know-
ledge of the coast to the eastward beyond the
next river, which hè called Nappa-arktok-towock, or
Tree River. The old man, contrary to the Indian
practice, asked each of our names; and, in reply
to a similar question on our part, said his name
was Terregannoeuck, or the White Fox; and that
his tribe denominated themselves Nagge-ook-tor-
mceoot, or Deer Horn Esquimaux. They usually
frequent the Bloody Fall during this and the fol-
lowing moons, for the purpose of salting salmon,
and then retire to a river which flows into the sea,
a short way to the westward, (since denominated
Richardson's River,) and pass the winter in
snow-houses.

Afterthis conversationTerregannceuck proposed
going down to his baggage, and we then per-
ceived hè was too mfirm to walk without the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 179

assistance of sticks. Augustus, therefore, ofFered
him his arm, which hè readily accepted, and, on
reaching his store, hè distributed pieces of dried
meat to eaeh person, which, though highly tainted,
were immediately eaten ; this being an universat
token among the Indians of peaceable intention.

We then informed him of our desire to procure
as much meat as we possibly could, and hè told
us that hè had a large quantity concealed in the
neighbourhood, which hè would cause to be car-
ried to us when his people returned.

I now communicated to him that we were ac-
companied by some Copper Indians, who were
very desirous to make peace with his nation, and
that they had requested me to prevail upon the
Esquimaux to receive them in a friendly manner ;
to which hè replied, hè should rejoice to see an
end put to the hostility that existed between the
nations, and therefore would most gladly welcome
our companions. Having despatched Adam to
inform Akaitcho of this circumstance, we left
Terregannceuck, in the hope that his party would
rejoin him; but as we had doubts whether the
young men would venture upon coming to our
tents, on the old man's bare representation, we
sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening,
to remain with him until they came, that they
might fully detail to them our intentions.

ysa

180 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The countenance of Terregannceuck was oval,
with a sufBciently prominent nose, and had no-
thing very different from an European face, except
in the smallness of his eyes, and, perhaps, in the
narrowneas of his forehead. His complexion
was very fresh and red, and hè had a longer beard
than I have hitherto seen on any of the aboriginal
inhabitants of America. It was between two
and three inches long, and perfectly white. His
face was not tattooed. His dress consisted of a
shirt, or jacket with a hood, wide breeches, reach-
ing only to the knee, and tight leggins sewed to
the shoes, all of deers' skins. The soles of the
shoes were made of seal-skin, and stuffèd with
feathers instead of socks. He was bent with age,
but appeared to be about five feet ten inches high.
His hands and feet were small in proportion to
his height. Whenever Terregannceuck received
a present, hè placed each article first on his right
shoulder, then on his left; and when hè wished
to express still higher satisfaction, hè rubbed it
over his head. He held hatchets, and other iron
Instruments, in the highest esteem. On seeing
his countenance in a glass for the first time, hè
exclaimed, " I shall never kill deer more," and
immediately put the mirror down. The tribe to
which hè belongs repair to the sea in spring,
and kill seals ; as the season advances they hunt

OP THE POLAR SEA. 181

deer and musk oxen at some distance from the
coast. Their weapon is the bow and arrow, and
they get sufficiently near to the deer, either by
crawling, or by leading these animals by ranges
of turf towards a spot where the archer can con-
ceal himself. Their bows are formed of three
pieces of fir, the centre piece alone bent, the
other two lying in the same straight line with the
bowstring; the pieces are neatly tied together
with sinew. Their canoes are similar to those
we saw in Hudson's Straits, but smaller. They
get fish constantly in the rivers, and in the sea
as soon as the ice breaks up. This tribe does
not make use of nets, but they are tolerably suc-
cessful with the hook and line. Their cooking
utensils are made of pot-stone, and they form very
neat dishes of fir, the sides being made of thin
deal bent into an oval form, secured at the ends
by sewirig, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as
to be perfectly water tight. They have also large
spoons made of the horns of the musk oxen.

Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents
in the evening, and we learned that they had seen
the Esquimaux the day before, and endeavoured,
without success, to open a communication with
them. They exhibited no hostile intention, but
were afraid to come near. Akaitcho, keeping
out of their sight, followed them at a distance,

183 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

expecting that ultimately finding themselves en-
closed between our party and his, they would be
compelled to come to a parley with one of us.
Akaitcho had seen Terregannoeuck soon after our
departure ; hè was much terrified at their ap-
proach, and thrust his spear at Akaitcho as hè had
done at Augustus; but hè was soon reconeiled
after the demonstrations of kindness the Indians
made, in cutting off the buttons from their dress
to present to him.

July 17.We waited all this forenoon in mo-
mentary expectation of the return of Augustus
and Junius, but as they did not appear at two
P.M., I sent Mr. Hood, with a party of men, to
inquire into the cause of their detention, and to
bring the meat which Terregannoeuck had pro-
mised us. He returned at midnight with the in-
formation, that none of the Esquimaux had yet
ventured to come near Terregannoeuck except his
aged wife, who had concealed herself amongst
the rocks at our first interview ; and she told him
the rest of the party had gone to a river, a short
distance to the westward, where there was ano-
ther party of Esquimaux fishing. Augustus and
Junius had erected the tent, and done every thing
in their power to make the old man comfortable
in their absence. Terregannoeuck being unable
to walk to the place where the meat was con-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 183

cealed, readily pointed the spot out to Mr. Hood,
who went thither; but after experiencing much
difficulty in getting at the column of rock on which
it was deposited, hè found the meat too putrid
for our use. The features of Terregannceuck's
wife were remarkable for roundness and flatness;
her face was much tattoed, her dress differed
little from the old man's.

In the afternoon a party of nine Esquimaux
appeared on the east bank of the river, about a
mile below our encampment, carrying their canoes
and baggage on their backs ; but they turned and
fled as soori as they perceived our tents. The
appearance of so many different bands of Esqui-
maux terrified the Indians to such a degree, that
they determined on leaving us the next day, lest
they should be surrounded and their retreat cut
off. I endeavoured, by the offer of any remu-
neration they would choose, to prevail upon one
or two of the hunters to proceed, but in vain;
and I had much difficulty even in obtaining their
promise to wait at the Copper Mountains for Mr.
Wentzel and the four men, whom I intended to
discharge at the sea,

The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain
and Adam, entertained respecting the voyage,
were now greatly increased, and both of them
came this evening to request their discharges,



		LONDON: l'KINTEl) BV WlI.MAM Cr.OWi:s, Nortliiintbei-laud-CüHit.



		CONTENTS

			o v

	THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER VIII. Page Transactions at Port EnterpriseMr. Back's Narrative of his Journey to Chipewyan, and Return - - l CHAPTER IX. Continuation of Procecdings at Fort EnterpriseSome Account of the Copper IndiansPreparations for the Journey to the Northward.........76 CHAPTER X. Departure from Fort EnterpriseNavigation of the Copper- Mine RiverVisit to the Copper MountainInterview with the EsquimauxDeparture of the Indian HuntersAr- rangements made with them for our return ... 122 CHAPTER XI. Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as far as Cape Turnagain, to the Eastward, a distance exceeding Five Hundred and Fifty MilesObservations on the probability of a North-West Passage......193



			iv CONTENTS.

		CHAPTER XII. Page Journey across the barren groundsDifficulty and delay in crossing Copper-Mine RiverMelancholy and fatal Results thereofExtreme Misery of the whole PartyMurder of Mr. HoodDeath of several of the CanadiansDesolate State of Fort EnterpriseDistress suffered at that Place Dr. Richardson's NarrativeMr. Back's NarrativeCon- clusion .....-- 237



			JOUKNJEY TO THE SHORES

					OF

				THE POLAR SEA.

	CHAPTER VIII. Transactions at Port EnterpriseMr. Back's Narrative of his Journey to Chipewyan and Return.

1820. DURING our little expedition to the September. Copper-Mine River, Mr. Wentzel had made great progress in the erection of our winter- house, having nearly roofed it in. But before proceeding to give an account of a ten months' residence at this place, henceforth designated Fort Enterprise, I may premise, that I shall omit many of the ordinary occurrences of a North- American winter, as they have been already de- tailed in so able and interesting a manner by Ellis*, and confine myself principally to the cir-

		* Voyage to Hudson's Bay in the Dobbs and California. Vot. II. B



		2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES cumstances which had an influence on our pro- gress on the ensuing summer. The observations on the magnetic needie, the temperature of the atmosphere, the Aurora Borealis, and other meteorological phenomena, together with the mineralogical and botanical notices, being less interesting to the genera! reader, are omitted in this edition. The men continued to work diligently at the house, and by the 30th of September had nearly completed it for our reception, when a heavy fall of rain washed the greater part of the mud off the roof. This rain was remarked by the Indians as unusual, after what they had deemed so de- cided a commencement of winter in the early part of the month. The mean temperature for the month was 33f °,but the thermometer had sunk as low as 16°, and on one occasion risen to 53°. Besides the party constantly employed at the house, two men were appointed to fish, and others were occasionally sent for meat, as the hunters procured it. This latter employment, although extremely laborious, was always relished by the Canadians, as they never failed to use a prescrip- tive right of helping themselves to the fattest and most delicate parts of the deer. Towards the end of the month, the rein-deer began to quit the barren grounds, and came into the vicinity of the



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 3 house, on their way to the woods; and the success of the hunters being consequently great, the ne- cessity of sending for the meat considerably re- tarded the building of the house. In the mean time we resided in our canvass tents, which proved very cold habitations, although we main- tained a fire in front of them, and also endea- voured to protect ourselves from the piercing winds by a barricade of pine branches. On the 6th of October, the house being com- pleted, we struck our tents, and removed into it. It was merely a log-building, fifty leet long, and twenty-four wide, divided into a hall, three bed- rooms, and a kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered with clay, the floors laid with planks rudely squared with the hatchet, and the windows closed with parchment of deer-skin. The clay, which, from the coldness of the weather, required to be tempered before the fire with hot water, froze as it was daubed on, and afterwards cracked in such a manner as to admit the wind from every quarter; yet, compared with the tents, our new habitation appeared comfprtable; and having filled our capacious clay-built chimney with fagots, we spent a cheerful evening before the invigo- rating blaze. The change was peculiarly bene- ficial to Dr. Richardson, who, having, in one of his excursions, incautiously laid down on the B 2



		4 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES frozen side of a hill when heated with walking, had caught a severe inflammatory sore throat, which became daily worse whilst we remained in the tents, but began to mend soon after hè was enabled to confine himself to the more equable warmth of the house. We took up our abode at first on the floor, but our working party, who had shewn such skill as house-carpenters, soon proved themselves to be, with the same tools, (the hatchet and crooked knife,) excellent cabinet-makers, and daily added a table, chair, or bedstead, to the comforts of our establishment. The crooked knife, generally made of an old file, bent and tempered by heat, serves an Indian or Canadian voyager for plane, chisel, and auger. With it the snow-shoe and canoe-timbers are fashioned, the deals of their sledges reduced to the requisite thinness and polish, and their wooden bowls and spoons hollowed out. Indeed, though not quite so requisite for existence as the hatchet, yet without its aid there would be little comfort in these wilds. On the 7th we were gratified by a sight of the sun, after it had been obscured for twelve days. On this and several following days the meridian sun melted the light covering of snow or hoar frost on the lichens, which clothe the barren grounds, and rendered them so tender as to at- tract great herds of rein-deer to our neighbour-



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 5 hood. On the morning of the l Oth I estimated the numbers I saw during a short walk, at upwards of two thousand. They form into herds of different sizes, from ten to a hundred, according as their fears or accident induce them to unite or separate. The females being at this time more lean and active, usually lead the van. The haunches of the males are how covered to the depth of two inches or more with fat which is beginning to get red and high flavoured, and is considered a sure indication of the commencement of the rutting season. Their horns, which in the middle of August were yet tender, have now attained their proper size, and are beginning to lose their hairy covering which hangs from them in ragged filaments. The horns of the rein-deer vary, not only with its sex and age, but are otherwise so uncertain in their growth, that they are never alike in any two individuals. The old males shed their's about the end of December; the fe- males retain them until the disappearance of the snow enables them to frequent the barren grounds, which may be stated to be about the middle or end of May, soon after which period they proceed towards the sea-coast and drop their young. The young males lose their horns about the same time with the females or a little earlier, some of them as early as April. The hair of the rein-



		6 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES deer falls in July, and is succeeded by a short thick coat of mingled clove, deep reddish, and yellowish, browns; the belly and under parts of the neck, $c., remaining white. As the winter approaches the hair becomes longer, and lighter in its colours, and it begins to loosen in May, being then much worn on the sides, from the animal rubbing itself against trees and stones. It becomes grayish and almost white, before it is completely shed. The Indians form their robes of the skins procured in autumn, when the hair is short. Towards the spring the larvee of the restrus attaining a large size, produce so many perforations in the skins, that they are good for nothing. The cicatrices only of these holes are to be seen in August, but a fresh set of ova* have in the mean time been deposited. The rein-deer retire from the sea-coast in July and August, rut in October on the verge of the barren grounds, and shelter themselves in the woods during the winter. They are often in- duced by a few fine days in winter, to pay atran- "It is worthy of remark, that in the month of May a very great number of large larvse exist under the mucous inembrane at the root of the tongue, and posterior part of the nares and pharynx. The Indians consider them to belong to the saine species with the cestrus, that deposits its ova under the skin ; to us the larvse of the former appeared more flattened than those of the latter. Specimens of both kinds, preserved in spirits, were destroyed by the frequent falls they received on the portages."DR. RICHARDSON'S Journal.



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 7 sitory visit to their favourite pastures in the barren country, but their principal movement to the northward commences generally in the end of April, when the snow first begins to melt on the sides of the huls, and early in May, when large patches of the ground are visible, they are on the banks of the Copper-Mine River. The females take the lead in this spring migration, and bring forth their young on the sea-coast about the end of May or beginning of June. There are certain spots or passes well knownto the Indians, through which the deer invariably pass in their migrations to and from the coast, and it has been observed that they always travel against the wind. The principal food of the rein-deer in the barren grounds, consists of the cetraria nivalis and cu- cullata, cenomyce rangiferina, cornicularia ochri- leuca, and other lichens, and they also eat the hay or dry grass which is found in the swamps in autumn. In the woods they feed on the different lichens which hang from the trees. They are accustomed to gnaw their fallen antlers, and are said also to devour mice. The weight of a full grown barren-ground deer, exclusive of the oflal, varies from ninety to one hundred and thirty pounds. There is, however, a much larger kind found in the woody parts of the country, whose carcass weighs from two hun-



		8 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES dred to two hundred and forty pounds. This kind never leaves the woods, but its skin is as much perforated by the gad-fly as that of the others; a presumptive proof that the smaller species are not driven to the sea-coast solely by the attacks of that insect. There are a few rein- deer occasionally killed in the spring, whose skins are entire, and these are always fat, whereas the others are lean at that season. This insect likewise infests the red-deer (wawasJceesh,) but its ova are not found in the skin of the moose, or buffalo, nor, as we have been informed, of the sheep and goat that inhabit the Rocky Mountains, although the rein-deer found inthose parts,(which, by the way, are of an unusually large kind,) are as much tormented by them as the barren-ground variety. The herds of rein-deer are attended in their migrations by bands of wolves, which destroy a great many of them. The Copper Indians kill the rein-deer in the summer with the gun, or taking advantage of a favourable disposition of the ground, they enclose a herd upon a neck of land, and drive them into a lake, where they fall an easy prey ; but in the rutting season and in the spring, when they are numerous on the skirts of the woods, they catch them in snares. The snares are simple nooses, formed in a rope made



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 9 of twisted sinew, which are placed in the aper- ture of a slight hedge, constructed of the branches of trees. This hedge is disposed so as to form several winding compartments, aud although it is by no means strong, yet the deer seldom attempt to break through it. The herd is led into the labyrinth by two converging rows of poles, and one is generally caught at each of the openings by the noose placed there. The hunter, too, lying in ambush, stabs some of them with his bayonet as they pass by, and the whole herd fre- quently becomes his prey. Where wood is scarce, a piece of turf turned up answers the purpose of a pole to conduct them towards the snares. The rein-deer has a quick eye, but the hunter by keeping to leeward and using a little caution, may approach very near; their apprehensions being much more easily roused by the smell than the sight of any unusual object. Indeed their curiosity often causes them to come close up to and wheel around the hunter; thus affording him a good opportunity of singling out the fattest of the herd, and upon these occasions they often become so confused by the shouts and gestures of their enemy, that they run backwards and for- wards with great rapidity, but without the power of making their escape.



		10 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES The Copper Indians find by experience that a white dress attracts them most readily, and they often succeed in bringing them within shot, by kneeling and vibrating the gun from side to side, in imitation of the motion of a deer's horns when hè is in the act of rubbing his head against a stone. The Dog-Rib Indians have a mode of killing these animals, which though simple, is very suc- cessful. It was thus described by Mr. Wentzel, who resided long amongst that people. The hunters go in pairs, the foremost man carrying in one hand the horns and part of the skin of the head of a deer, and in the other a small bundie of twigs, against which hè, from time to time, rubs the horns, imitating the gestures peculiar to the animal. His comrade follows treading exactly in his footsteps, and holding the guns of both in a horizontal position, so that the muzzles project under the arms of him who carries the head. Both hunters have a fillet of white skin round their foreheads, and the foremost has a strip of the same kind round his wrists. They approach the herd by degrees, raising their legs very slowly, but setting them down somewhat sud- denly, after the marmer of a deer, and always taking care to lift their right or left feet simultane- ously. If any of the herd leave off feeding to



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 11 gaze upon this extraordinary phenomenon, it instantly stops, and the head begins to play its part by licking its shoulders, and performing other necessary movements. In this way the hunters attain the very centre of the herd without exciting suspicion, and have leisure to single out the fattest. The hindmost man then pushes for- ward his comrade's gun, the head is dropt, and they both fire nearly at the same instant. The herd scampers off, the hunters trot after them ; in a short time the poor animals halt to ascertain the cause of their terror, their foes stop at the same instant, and having loaded as they ran, greet the gazers with a second fatal discharge. The consternation of the deer increases, they run to and fro in the utmost confusion, and sometimes a great part of the herd is destroyed within the space of a few hundred yards. A party who had been sent to Akaitcho return- ed, bringing three hundred and seventy pounds of dried meat, and two hundred and twenty pounds of suet, together with the unpleasant in- formation, that a still larger quantity of the latter article had been found and carried off, as hè sup- posed,bysomeDog-ribs, who had passed that way. The weather becoming daily colder, all the lakes in the neighbourhood of the house were completely, and the river partially, frozen over



		12 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES by the middle of the month. The rein-deer now began to quit us for more southerly and better- sheltered pastures. Indeed, their longer resi- dence in our neighbourhood would have been of little service to us, for our ammunition was al- most completely expended, although we had dealt it of late with a very sparing hand to the Indians. We had, however, already secured in the store-house the carcasses of one hundred deer, together with one thousand pounds of suet, and some dried meat; and had, moreover, eighty deer stowed up at various distances from the house. The necessity of employing the men to build a house for themselves, before the weather became too severe, obliged us to put the latter en cache, as the voyagers term it, instead of adopting the more safe plan of bringing them to the house. Putting a deer en cache, means merely protect- ing it against the wolves, and still more destruc- tive wolverenes, by heavy loads of wood or stones; the latter animal, however, sometimes digs under- neath the pile,and renders the precaution abortive. On the 18th, Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel set out for Fort Providence, accompanied by Beau- parlant, Belanger, and two Indians, Akaiyazza and Thoolezzeh, with their wives, the Little Fore- head, and the Smiling Marten. Mr. Back had volunteered to go and make the necessary ar-



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 13 rangements for transporting the stores we ex- pected from Cumberland House, and to endea- vour to obtain some additional supplies from the establishments at Slave Lake. If any accident should have prevented the arrival of our stores, and the establishments at Moose-Deer Island should be unable to supply the deficiency, hè was, if hè found himself equal to the task, to pro- ceed to Chipewyan. Ammunition was essential to our existence, and a considerable supply of tobacco was also requisite, not only for the com- fort of the Canadians, who use it largely, and had stipulated for it in their engagements, but also as a means of preserving the friendship of the In- dians. Blankets, cloth, and iron-work, were scarcely less indispensable to equip our men for the advance next season. Mr. Wentzel accompanied Mr. Back, to assist him in obtaining from the traders, on the score of old friendship, that which they might be inclined to deny to our necessities. I forwarded by them letters to the Colonial Office and Admiralty, de- tailing the proceedings of the Expedition up to this period. On the 22d we were surprised by a visit from a dog; the poor animal was in low condition, and much fatigued. Our Indians discovered, by marks on his ears, that hè belonged to the Dog-



		14 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ribs. This tribe, unlike the Chipewyans and Copper Indians, had preserved that usefül as- sociate of man, although from their frequent in- tercourse with the latter people, they were not ignorant of the prediction alluded to in a former page. One of our interpreters was immediately despatched, with an Indian, to endeavour to tracé out the Dog-ribs, whom hè supposed might be concealed in the neighbourhood from their dread of the Copper Indians ; although we had no doubt of their coming to us, were they aware of our being her e. The interpreter, however, returned without having discovered any traces of strange Indians; a circumstance which led us to con- clude, that the dog had strayed from his masters a considerable time since. Towards the end of the month the men com- pleted their house, and took up their abode in it. It was thirty-four feet long and eighteen feet wide; was divided into two apartments, and was placed at right angles to the officers' dwelling, and facing the store-house: the three buildings formingthree sides of a quadrangle. On the 26th Akaitcho and his party arrived, the hunting in this neighbourhood being termi- nated forthe season, by the deer having retired to the southward to shelter themselves in the woods. The arrival of this large party was a serieus



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 15 inconvenience to us, from our being compelled tö issue them daily rations of provision from the store. The want of ammunition prevented us from equipping and sending them to the woods to hunt; and although they are accustomed to sub- sist themselves for a considerable part of the year by fishing, or snaring the deer, without hav- ing recours e to fire-arms, yet, on the present occasion, they feit little inclined to do so, and gave scope to their natural love of ease, as long as our store-house seemed to be well stocked. Nevertheless, as they were conscious of impair- ing our future resources, they did not fail, oc- casionally, to remind us that it was not their fault, to express an ardent desire to go a hunting, and to request a supply of ammunition, although they knew that it was not in our power to give it. The summer hink by this time had entirely deserted us, leaving, for our winter companions, the raven, cinereous crow, ptarmigan, and snow- bird. The last of the water-fowl that quitted us was a species of diver, of the same size with the colymbus arcticus, but differing from it in the ar- rangement of the white spots on its plumage, and in having a yellowish white bul. This bird was occasionally caught in our fishing nets. The thermometer during the month of October, at Fort Enterprise, never rose above 37°, or feil



		16 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES below5°; the^mean temperature for the month was 23°. In the beginning of October a party had been sent to the westward to search for birch to make snow-shoe frames, and the Indian women were afterwards employed in netting the shoes and preparing leather for winter-clothing to the men. Robes of rein-deer skins were also obtained from the Indians, and issued to the men who were to travel, as they are not only a great deal lighter than blankets, but also much warmer, and alto- gether better adapted for a winter in this climate. They are, however, unfit for summer use, as the least moisture causes the skin to spoil, and lose its hair. It requires the skins of seven deer to make one robe. The finest are made of the skins of young fawns. The fishing, having failed as the weather be- came more severe, was given up on the Sth. It had procured us about one thousand two hundred white fish, from two to three pounds each. There are two other species of Coregoni in Winter Lake, Back's grayling and the roundfish ; and a few trout, pike, methye, and red carp, were also occasionally obtained from the nets. It may be worthy of notice here, that the fish froze as they were taken out of "the nets, in a short time be- came a solid mass of ice, and by a blow or two



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 17 of the hatchet were easily split open, when the intestines might be removed in one lump. If in this completely frozen state they were thawed before the ure, they recovered their animation. This was particularly the case with the carp, and we had occasion to observe it repeatedly, as Dr. Richardson occupied himself in examining the structure of the different species of fish, and was always, in the winter, under the necessity of thawing them before hè could cut them. We have seen a carp recover so far as to leap about with much vigour, after it had been frozen for thirty-six hours. From the 12th to the 16th we had fine, and for the season, warm weather; and the deer, which had not been seen since the 26th of October, re- appeared in the neighbourhood of the house, to the surprise of the Indians, who attributed their return to the barren grounds, to the unusual mild- ness of the season. On this occasion, by melting some of our pewter cups, we managed to furnish five balls to each of the hunters, but they were all expended unsuccessfully, except by Akaitcho, who killed two deer. By the middle of the month Winter River was firmly frozen over, except the small rapid at its commencement, which remained open all the winter. The ice on the lake was now nearly two VOL. II. C



		18 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES feet thick. After the 16th we had a succession of cold, snowy, and windy weather. We had become anxious to hear of the arrival of Mr. Back and his party at Fort Providence. The Indians, who had calculated the period at which a messenger ought to have returned from thence to be already passed, became impatient when it had elapsed, and with their usual love of evil augury tormented us by their melancholy fore- bodings. At one time they conjectured that the whole party had fallen through the ice; at another, that they had been way-laid and cut off by the Dog-ribs, In vain did we urge the improbability of the former accident, or the peaceable character of the Dog-ribs, so little in conformity with the latter. " The ice at this season was deceitful," they said, " and the Dog-ribs, though unwarlike, were treacherous." These assertions, so ofteri repeated, had some effect upon the spirits of our Canadian voyagers, who seldom weigh any opinion they adopt; but we persisted in treating their fears as chimerical, for had we seemed to listen to them for a moment, it is more than pro- bable that the whole of our Indians would have gone to Fort Providence in search of supplies, frorn whence we should have found it extremely difficult to have recovered them. The matter was put to rest by the appearance



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 19 of Belanger on the morning of the 23d, and the Indians, now running into the opposite extreme, were disposed to give us more credit for our judgment than we deserved. They had had a tedious and fatiguing journey to Fort Providence, and for some days were destitute of provisions. Belanger arrived alone; hè had walked con- stantly for the last six-and-thirty hours, leaving his Indian companions encamped at the last woods, they being unwilling to accompany him across the barren grounds during the storm that had prevailed for several days, and blew with unusual violence on the morning of his arrival. His locks were matted with snow, and hè was incrusted with ice from head to foot, so that we scarcely recognised him when hè burst in upon us. We welcomed him with the usual shake of the hand, but were unable to give him the glass of rum which every voyager receives on his arrival at a trading post. As soon as his packet was thawed, we eagerly opened it to obtain our English letters. The latest were dated on the preceding April, They came by way of Canada, and were brought up in September to Slave Lake by the North-West Company's canoes. We were not so fortunate with regard to our stores ; of ten pieces, or bales of 901bs. weight, C2



		SO JOURNEY TÖ THE SHORES which had been sent from York Factory by Governor Williams, five of the most essential had been left at the Grand Rapid on the Saskat- chawan, owing, as far as we could judge from. the accounts that reached us, to the misconduct of the officer to whom they were intrusted, and who was ordered to convey them to Cumberland- House. Being overtaken by some of the North- West Company's canoes, hè had insisted on their taking half of his charge as it was intended for the service of Government. The North-West gen- tlemen objected, that their canoes had already got a cargo in, and that they had been requested to convey our stores from Cumberland-House only, where they had a canoe waiting for the purpose. The Hudson's-Bay officer upon this deposited our ammunition and tobacco upon the beach, and departed without any regard .to the serious consequences that might result to us from the want of them. The Indians, who assembled at the opening of the packet, and sat in silence watching our countenances, were necessarily made acquainted with the non-arrival of our stores, and bore the intelligence with unex- pected tranquillity. We took care, however, in our Communications with them to dweil upon the more agreeable parts of our intelligence, and they seemed to receive particular pleasure on being



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 21 infbrmed of the arrival of two Esquimaux inter- preters at Slave Lake on their way to join the party. The circumstance not only quieted their fears of opposition from the Esquimaux on our descent to the sea next season, but also afforded a substantial proof of our influence in being able to bring two people of that nation from such a distance. Akaitcho, who is a man of great penetration and shrewdness, duly appreciated these circum- stances; indeed hè has often surprised us by his correct judgment of the character of individuals amongst the traders or of our own party, although his knowledge of their opinions was, in most instances, obtained through the imperfect medium of interpretation. He was an attentive observer, however, of every action, and steadily compared their conduct with their pretensions. By the newspapers we learned the demise of our revered and lamented sovereign George III., and the proclamation of George IV. We con cealed this intelligence from the Indians, lest the death of their great Father might lead them to suppose that we should be unable to fulfil our promises to them. The Indians who had left Fort Providence with Belanger arrived the day after him, and, amongst other intelligence, informed Akaitcho of some



		23 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES reports they had heard tö our disadvantage. They stated that Mr. Weeks, the gentleman in charge of Fort Providence, had told them, that so far from our being what we represënted our- selves to be, the officers of a great King, we were merely a set of dependant wretches, whose oiily aim was to obtain subsistence for a season in the plentiful country of the Copper Indians; that, out of charity, we had been supplied with a portion of goods by the trading Companies, but that there was not the smallest probability of our being able to reward the Indians when their term of service was completed. Akaitcho, With great good sense, instantly came to have the matter explained, stating at the same time, that hè could not credit it. I then poihted out to him that Mr. Wentzel, with whom they had long been accustomed to trade, had pledged the credit of his Company for the stipulated rewards to the party that aecompanied us, and that the trading debts due by Akaitcho and his party had already been remitted, which was of itself a sufficient proof of our influence with the North-West Com- pany. I also reminded Akaitcho, that our having caused the Esquimaux to be brought up at a great expense, was evidence of our future inten- tions, and informed him that I should write to Mr. Smith, the senior trader in the department,



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 23 on the subject, when I had no doubt that a satis- factory explanation would be given. The Indians retired from the conference apparently satisfied, but this business was in the end productive of much inconvenience to us, and proved very de- trimental to the progress of the Expedition. In conjunction also with other intelligence conveyed in Mr. Back's letters respecting the disposition of the traders towards us, particularly a state- ment of Mr. Weeks, that hè had been desired not to assist us with supplies from his post, it was productive of much present uneasiness to me. On the 28th St..Germain, the interprater, set out with eight Canadian voyagers and four In- dian hunters to bring up our stores from Fort Providence. I wrote by him to Mr. Smith, at Moose-Deer Island, and Mr. Keith, at Chipe- wyan, both of the North-West Company, urging them in the strongest manner to comply with the requisition for stores, which Mr. Back would pre- sent. I also informed Mr. Simpson, principal agent in the Athabasca for the Hudson's Bay Company, who had proflèred every assistance in his power, that we should gladly avail ourselves of the kind intentions expressed in a letter which I had received from him. We also sent a number of broken axes to



		24 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES Slave Lake to be repaired. The dog that came to us on the 22d of October, and had become very familiar, followed the party. We were in hopes that it might prove of some use in drag- ging their loads, but we afterwards learned, that on the evening after their departure from the house, they had the cruelty to kill and eat it, although they had no reason to apprehend a scarcity of provision. A dog is considered to be delicate eating by the voyagers. Themean temperature of the air for November was 0°.7. The greatest heat observed was 25° above, and the least 31° below, zero. On the Ist of December the sky was clear, a slight appearance of stratus only being visible near the horizon ; but a kind of snow feil at in- tervals in the forenoon, its particles so minute as to be observed only in the sunshine. Towards noon the snow became more apparent, and the two limbs of a prismatic arch were visible, one on each side of the sun near its place in the heavens, the centre being deficiënt. We have frequently observed this descent of minute icy spiculse when the sky appears perfectly clear, and could even perceive that its silent but con- tinued action, added to the snowy covering of the ground. Having received one hundred balls from Fort



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 25 Providence by Belanger, we distributed them amongst the Indians, iuforming the leader at the same time, that the residence of so large a party as his at the house, amounting, with women and children, to forty souls, was producing a serious reduction in our stock of provision. He acknow- ledged the justice of the statement, and promised to remove as soon as his party had prepared snow-shoes and sledges for themselves. Under one pretext or other, however, their departure was delayed until the lOth of the month, when they left us, having previously recezved one of our fish- ing-nets, and all the. ammunition we possessed. The leader left his aged mother and two female attendants to our care, requesting that if she died during his absence, she might be buried at a dis- tance from the fort, that hè might not be reminded of his loss when hè visited us. Keskarrah, the guide, also remained behind, with his wife and daughter. The old man has become too feeble to hunt, and his time is almost entirely occupied in attendance upon his wife, who has been long affected with an ulcer on the face, which has nearly destroyed her nose. Lately hè made an offering to the water spirits, whose wrath hè apprehended to be the cause of her malady. It consisted of a knife, a piece of tobacco, and some other trifling articles, which were tied



		SR JOURNEY TO THE SHORES up in a small bundie, and committed to the rapid with a long prayer. He does not trust entirely, however, to the relenting of the spirits for his wife's cüre, but comes daily to Dr. Richardson for medicine. Upon one occasion hè received the medicine from the Doctor with such formality, and wrapped it up in his rein-deer robe with such extraordinary carefulness, that it excited the involuntary laugh- ter of Mr. Hood and myself. The old man smiled in his turn, and as hè always seemed proud of the familiar way in which we were accustomed to joke with him, we thought no more upon the sub- ject. But hè unfortunately mentioned the cir- cümstance to his wife, who imagined in conse- quence, that the drug was not productive of its usual good effects, and they immediately came to the conclusion that some bad medicine had been intentionally given to them. The distress pro- duced by this idea, was in proportion to their former faith in the potency of the remedy, and the night was spent in singing and groaning. Next morning the whole family were crying in concert, and it was not until the evening of the second day that we succeeded in pacifying them. The old woman began to feel better, and her faith in the medicine was renewed. While speaking of this family, I may remark



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 2? that the daughter, whoffl we designated Green- stockings from her dress, is considered by her tribe to be a great beauty. Mr. Hood drew an accurate portrait of her, although her mother Was averse to her sitting for it. She was afraid, she said, that her daughter's likeness would induce the great Chief who resided in England to send for the origihal. The young lady, however, was undeterred by any such fear. She has already been an object of contëst between her country- men, and although under sixteen years of age, has belonged successively to two husbands, and would probably have been the wife of many more, if her mother had not required her services as a nurse. The weather during this month, was the coldest we experienced during our residence in America. The thermometer sunk on one occasion to 57° below zero, and nevef rose beyond 6° above it; the mean for the month was 29°. 7. During these intense colds, however, the atmosphere was generally calm, and the wood-cutters and others went about their ordinary occupations without using any extraördinary precautions, yet without feeling any bad effects. They had their rein-deer shirts on, leathern mittens lined with blarikets, and furred caps ; but none of them used any de- fence for the face, nor did they need to do so.