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THE HORSE.
A BOOK FOR THE PEOPLE.
CONTAINING
THE PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE, IN ALL ITS FORMS, OF A HORSEMAJT
OF THIRTY-SEVEN YEARS STANDING ; ALSO EVERY DESIRA-
BLE KNOWLEDGE OF THE HORSE, AND HOW TO HAN-
DLE, SHOE, AND TAKE CARE OF HIM ; WITH
A NUMBER OF RECEIPTS WHICH THE
AUTHOR HAS USED FOR YEARS,
A.ND FOUND TO BE GOOD
BOTH FOR THE HORSE
AND FOR MAN.
jl Jd. !PXTGxi!Ejxv«.
WITH APPENDIX,
CONTAINING
A GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE; TREATISES ON THE EDUCA-
TION AND AGE OF THE HORSE; AND IN CONCLUSION,
THE STATUTES AND BETTING-RULES OF "THE
NATIONAL TROTTING ASSOCIATION."
EIGHTH, ENLARGED AND IMPROVED, EDITION.
43 ILLUSTRATIONS.
PUBLISHED FOR TH« AUTHOR.
THE GERMAN NEWS COMPANY,
CHICAGO:
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Kntered According to Act of Congress, in the year 1880,
By B. PITCHEB,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
All rights reserved.
Entered According to Act of Congress, in the year 1881,
Bt THE GERMAN NEWS COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
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PREFACE.
To thk Public :
In presenting this book to the public, I am well aware of
the prejudice that now exists in the minds of the people against
all books of this kind, and will here say that I am no professor,
college graduate, horse doctor, or doctor of any kind, but a hum-
ble mechanic. What is contained in this book is my experience
and observation for the last thirty-seven years.
Most works on this and kindred subjects are written by
men who, though having a theory on the matter, cannot take the
hammer, and follow their own advice. The book teaches how
the horse should be bred, broken, handled, shod, doctored and
cared for ; together with a number of valuable receipts collected
by the author and used by him for years, any one of these being
worth the cost of the book.
The Author.
PREF1CE TO FIFTH EDITION.
The extraordinary sale this work met with in course of the
first year of its appearance, has induced the publishers to issue
this fifth edition, considerably enlarged and improved in every
respect. Many valuable illustrations have been added, and, in
fact, no pains have been spared to render the work a useful and
reliable guide to horse-owners. Believing that we thereby supply
a long felt want, we trust the book will, in its new form, meet
the favor of all horse-owners and every friend of horses.
The Publishers.
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE.
Lord Clyde.........................................................2
Points on the Horse................................................ 26
A Grup of Bots____.............................................. 63a
Section of the Abdomen...........................................68a
Longitudinal Section of the Thorax................................ 68a
An English Draft Horse...........................................108
The Arab Horse ..................................................110
Ok Horse Shoeing.
Section of the Parts Entering into the Composition of the Foot,
Fig. 12. The Hoof—Fig. 13. Right Front Foot—Fig. 14. Right
Hind Foot—Fig. 15.........................................68b
Shoe, Fig, 1................................................... 70
Shoe, Fig. 2................................................... 71
Shoe, Fig. 3 .................................................. 72
Shoe, Fig. 4................................................... 73
Shoe, Fig. 5........'........................................... 76
Shoe, Fig. 6____.............................................. 78
Shoe, Fig. 7.................................................. 8i
Shoe, Fig. 8................................................... 81
Shoe, Fig. 9................................................... 82
Foot Hook, Fig. 10............................................ 83
Instrument for Clinching the Nails, Fig. 11..................... 83
The Foot Spreater...... ...................................... 101
On Training op Horses.
Fig. 1. To Halter the Colt..................................... 120
Fig. 2. To Hnlterthe Colt..................................... 121
Fig. 9. The Bitting Bridle..................................... 123
Fie. 4. The Bitting Bridle.................................. 124
Fig.5. Hitching up the Colt................................. 126
Fig. 6. Riding the Colt...................................... 129
Fig. 7. Pulling at Halter.................................... 136
Fig.8. How to Throw a Horse................................ 134
Fig. 9. A Jumping Rig................<...................... 135
On the Age op the Horse.
Fig. 1. Section of Incisor.....................................  136
Fig.2. Milk Nippers.........................................  138
Fig. 3. Incisor of the Matured Horse...........................  138
Fig 4. TheTushes..........................................  138
Fig. 5. Three-Year-Old Mouth ...............................  140
Fig.6. Mouth of the Colt at i% Years.........................  140
Fig. 7. Upper Ni ppers and Tushes at Five Years Old...........  140
Fig. 8. Lower Nippers and Tushes at'Five Years Old...........  140
Fig. 9. The Lower Teeth of a Six Years Old Horse.............  141
Fig. 10. At Seven Years Old..................................  141
Fig. 11. At Nine Years....................................  141
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CONTENTS.
PAGE
Age of the Horse, The.......................................... 136
Appendix......................................................... 107
General Histobt of the Horse................................ 109
Arabian Horse, the............................................. 110
Canadian Horse, the........................................... 115
General Description.......................................... 109
Horse Breeding in England................................... 112
Indian Pony, the................................................. 114
Mustang, or North American Horse............................. 114
Origin of the Horse............................................. 110
South American Horse, the.................................... 113
Thoroughbred, the............................................ 115
Trakehner Horse, the.......................................... 112
General Remarks.........,..................................... 13
Balky Horses and Drivers..................................... 25
Check or the Over-Drawn Check Rein, The...................... 19
Clipping Horses............................................... 16
Cupped Ankles............................................... 20
General Treatment............................................. 15
Horse Talk.................................................. 22
Horses Feet, Cruel Treatment of................................ 21
Lameness in Stifle Joint..................................... 20
Lameness in Horses, General Cause of........................;. 19
Navicular Disease .. -......................................... 20
Nursing, Notes On............................................. 18
Soaking and Bathing Horses................................... 23
Horse, the..................................................... 27
Horse Collar..................................................... 104
Mechanical Receipts............................................ 103
To Temper Taps and Dies...................................... 103
To Temper Mill Picks...............:........................ 103
To Weld Cast or Any Kind of Steel............................. 103
National Trotting Association, the
Betting Rules...............................................| 180
By-Laws.................................................... 145
Rules and Regulations........................................ 155
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8                                             CONTENTS.
PAGB.
Rbceipts........................................................   36
Appetite, to Restore Less of...................................    49
Black Oil Liniment...........................................   41
Blue Ointment................................................   47
Bots, the.....................................................  53a
Bots, the True Symptoms of the................................   57
Breaking of Bad Habits.......................................   37
Breeding Horses.............................................   36
Brood Mares, Cows, etc........................................    37
Carthartic Powder.............................................    63
Catarrh, or Common Cold......................................   66
Colic.........................................................  53a
Cleansing Lotion for Foul Sores................................    66
Cleansing the Blood of the Horse...............................    52
Sondition Powder.............................................    46
Cornet of the Hoof, Injuries, Accidents to the, from Treads, Calks,
Bruises, Interfering, etc......................................   65
Cough Ball...................................................    68
Cracked or Greasy Heels......................................    43
Diarrhoea, Dysentery, Scowers, etc..............................   63
Disease of Liver, or Yellow Water..............................    51
Distemper....................................................    49
Eye Wash..... ..............................................   50
Eye Salve..........,..........................................   50
Fatten the Poorest Horse, How to..............................    45
Fever Ball....................................................    62
Fistula.......................................................   59
Fistula or Poll Evil......... ..................................   47
Founder......................................................   44
Fresh Wounds....................................... ........   44
Galls, Scratches..............................................    66
Green Mountain Salve........................................   44
Growth of the Hair, Ointment to Promote tie....................   64
Heaves, a Sure Cure for the....................................    62
Hoof-Ail in Sheep.............................................    43
Hoof-Bound or Tender Feet....................................   42
Hoof Liquid..................................................   41
Hoof Ointment................................................    45
Inflammation of the Bowels....................................    51
Lampers.....................................................   62
Laxative.....................................................    64
Laxative Clysters..................................-...........    63
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CONTENTS.                                            9
PAGE.
Lice on Animals, How to Kill..................................   47
Lightning Pain Killer.........................................    62
Liniment, Black Oil...........................................    41
Liniment, for Splint and Spavin................................   48
Liniment, mild general........................................    44
Liquid Blister.................................................    46
Lock-Jaw....................................................   47
Love Drops, to make ahorse like you...........................   48
Lung Fever.....................................;...........    50
Magic Liniment, How to Make the.............................    5£
Mange, or Other Eruptive Skin Diseases........................    65
Mild General Liniment........................................   44
Milk or Big Leg.............................................   46
Physic Ball....................................................    45
Physic for Cattle..............................................   49
Piles, Sure Cure for............................................   48
Pine Tar......................................................   49
Poll Evil......................................................   58
Proud Flesh, for...............................................    65
Purgatives................................................    63
Purgative Clysters............................................   63
Quittor.......................................................    64
Rheumatic Pains, Cramp, String Halt...........................    67
Rheumatism in Man.........................................    68
Ringbone, Spavin, Curb Splint, Through Pin or Windgall's and
Stocked Ankles or Milk Leg......................... .......   45
Saddle Galls................................................    64
Salve, Green Mountain........................................   44
Salve, Soft Soap..............................................    43
Scratches, Grease Heels, Quittors and Foul Sores Generally, Salve  .
for..........................................................   66
Shoe Balls, as they are called..................................    37
Soft Soap Salve..............................................   43
Sore Eyes...................................................    50
Splint and Spavin Liniment....................................    48
Stiff Shoulders................................................   42
Sweeney......................................................   42
Stomachs, Gorged................................... .......    64
Strains and Swellings, Liniment for............................   63
Swellings after Bruises........................................   64
Trush, the......................... ...........................   60
Turkish Liniment.............................................  53a
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10                                          CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Ulcers, Ointment for Cleansing Foul............................ 66
Urinary Organs, Diseases of the................................ 59
Urinary Organs, Diseases of the................................ 60
Urinary Organs, Bloody Urine.............. ................... 60
Warts on Horses, to Remove................................... 46
Warts on Persons, to Take Off................................. 50
Wind Galls.................................................. 59
Worms.......... :........................................... 51
Worms....................................................... 64
White Ointment..............................................• 46
White Salve for Sores, Scratches, etc............................ 66
Shoeing Horses.................................................. 69
Application of Hot Shoes..................................... 86
Clips, as they are Called...................................... 69
Corns on Horses' Feet......................................... 98
Foot Spreader, The............................................ 101
Over-Reaching............................................... 97
Picking up Kails, Stubs, eta................................... 101
Pressure on the Frog.......................................... 93
Remarks on the Frog.......................................... 90
Rules for Shoeing Horses, In Regard to the...................... 84
Shoeing the Mule............................................. 83
Training of Horses.............................................. 117
Bridle-pulling.................................................133
Bitting Bridle, The............................................ 123
Halter-break the Colt.......................................... 117
Harnessing of the Colt......................................... 135
Hitching the Colt in the Stall.................................. 123
Hitching up the Colt........................................... 136
Jumping Rig................................................. 135
Kicking in Double Harness................................... 131
Mount the Colt, To......................*'..................___ 131
Pulling at Halter............................................. 132
Riding the Colt............................................... 139
Teaching the Colt to Back..................................... 138
Throw a Horse, How to........................................ 134
Used to the Bit, To Get the Colt................................ 125
Wild Colt, The.......,....................................... 117
*
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Lord C^yde,
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THE OLD HORSE'S COMPLAINT.
BY FRANCIS S. SMITH.
I once had a master who thought me a prize,
The gem of his stable, the light of his eyes;
He called me pet names when I fed from his hand,
And gave me a stall which was costly and grand;
He watched me with tenderness, made soft my bed—
No draught was allowed to blow over my head;
No ill could assail me, no danger come nigh,
And my hay was the sweetest that money could buy.
My satin-like hide was by every one praised;
I'd a clean set of limbs, and like stars my eyes blazed;
My quarters were broad, and my shoulders were strong,
And my tail, mane and foretop were silky and long.
I was a true type of the thoroughbred horse,
And when in a race I flew over the course,
No urging was Deeded, no spur my flank tore—
My pluck always carried me first to the score.
But time sapped my strength, and my triumphs were o'er;
With the young and the fleet I could struggle no more,
And one day my master remarked, with a sigh,
"The old horse is in the way now, and must die!
He is old and decrepit and eats too much hay.
So put on his halter and lead him away:
Make sure of your work, take him off to the plains,
Then pull out your pistol and blow out his brains!"
I am ready and willing to yield my last breath,
But still it seems hard he should order my death.
If I had the power I'd work for him still—
But enough! it is over! — now hear my last will:
Let my hide into leather for harness be made,
Give my bones to the turner for use in his trade,
Then lay the old carcass, at set of the sun,
'Neath the soil on the track where my triumphs were won.
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GEKEKAL EEMAEKS.
THE author belongs to no particular sect or school. He be-
lieves that the enlightened physician will cull something
valuable from all sects and systems, and from every mode of
treatment that has been employed, even by the most humble
authors. The utility of this book will consist mainly of its
practical suggestions. It will furnish reliable memoranda in
many emergencies.
Many diseases commonly considered incurable are found to
be readily curable, and others that were considered difficult to
cure are found curable. Contracted feet, corns, quarter-cracks,
however severe, are absolutely curable, with scarcely an excep-
tion. Contraction and navicular diseases are absolutely pre-
vented by a proper method of shoeing. In the early stages of
founder and knee-spring they are readily curable; and in the
latter stages, where they are not absolutely curable, they can be
improved to a remarkable degree. The author holds views and
opinions upon these matters which will bear the test of experi-
ment— more than can be said of much that has been written
and said about the foot of the horse. Its practical value to horse
breeders and owners cannot be over-estimated. The author con-
siders his theory and practice upon the diseases of the foot of
the horse absolutely unassailable, and he purposes to devote his
entire time and energies to the instruction of others, believing
that while he is thus subserving his personal interests, he will be
promoting the higher interests of humanity and civilization.
In selecting a horse, first make up your mind what kind of
labor you mean him to perform; for there are the same rules to
be observed in the horse that there are in the man. If I wanted
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14
GENERAL REMARKS.
a man to Mow and strike in the blacksmith-shop, I would not
select a young man with narrow chest, slim limbs and fine, deli-
cate countenance, weighing only from eighty to one hundred
pounds, where one hundred and fifty pounds are necessary, with
broad chest and shoulders; for to do hard work it is very essen-
tial to have strong, well-developed muscles, and weight to back
it. Horses, like men, are adapted some to light work and some
to heavy.
The first thing I look at in selecting a horse is his feet. If
they are deep walls, full, round, broad heels, nice, soft, large frog
and black hoofs, then they will do; white hoofs are not as tough
as black ones. Then I look farther. No foot, no horse. Then
examine his eyes; then all over. A good large sheath and small
rectum is a good sign; close ribbed, round hips, full breast and
shoulders, well^raised weathers, a fine neck and head; and see
that he carries his head at a proper height without checking — I
am no friend to checks. Let the horse carry his head in his nat-
ural position, then he will travel easy. See that he stands with
his feet well under him. Never buy a horse with a roached back
or a hollow one, for they are weak in the spine. Select for slow
work and heavy hauling, fourteen hundred pounds and upwards',
for the farm, eleven to thirteen hundred pounds; for the buggy,
eight to eleven hundred pounds.
The old Mohawk Dutchmen of New York always had good
horses. Their rule was to .select a good horse,— round built,,
short legs. For they said they did not want too much daylight
under them; also, one that would eat hearty, for if they cannot
eat they cannot work. Watch a horse when he eats. If he sticks
his nose clear to the bottom of the manger, and paws, he is a
good one. He can work. Large, round, well-built horses can
stand hard work; but a tall, raw-boned horse cannot do the work,
and will eat as much, or more, than the round, fine-made one.
In driving horses, when you start in the morning first drive slow,
for their stomachs are full, and they feel heavy, and if driven fast
tfley will be in much pain. If on the road, water often, but only
a little at a time. This keeps their mouth and nostrils moist,
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GENERAL REMARKS.                                      lfr
and they will breathe easy. At noon put your horse in a stable,
cover a little while until he cools off. Give a little hay moistened
with clean water. After he is cooled off, then give a light draught
of cold water and a small quantity of grain. Feed lighter at
noon than at night or morning. Avoid stopping your horse in a
strong current of air, when warm, without putting on a blanket,
if you can help it; for he is liable to take cold, and this is the
cause of founder and lung fever. Do not be in too great a hurry
to get in the house—first take good care of your horse.
GENERAL TREATMENT.
Eugs and flannel bandages conduce to the vigor of the circu-
lation through the skin and extremities. Food should never be
forced upon a horse, except in extreme cases. He should be
tempted by choice bits. Food, however good, acts as an irritant
upon a disordered stomach. Bran, carrots, oatmeal, linseed and
linseed cake, green food and hay tea, furnish the best dietary for
sick horses. Steaming by hot bran mashes, or hay tea, is good
in all diseases of the air-passages. Linseed, from its nutritious
qualities and oily nature, is soothing to the irritable mucous
membranes. Cold water is refreshing, and should be always near
the sick horse. Bandages are applied to the legs for the sake of
pressure, moisture, warmth and protection.
Cooking food for horses, as a steady feed, is becoming quite
universal in America as well as in the old countries. In an in-
terview with the President of the United States Steam Feed
Company, who originated the practice in this country* I was im-
pressed with the theory, and took great pains to demonstrate the
practical value of their feed prepared in Chicago. I found the
opinion universal, that it improved the horse, and by the in-
creased nutriment by cooking, was more economical, insuring
perfect freedom from colic and other diseases incident to fer-
mentation ; and I believe when proper attention is given to the
subject, the time will not be far distant when cooked food will
be the rule and not the exception.
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16                                      GENERAL REMARKS.
CLIPPING HORSES.
This is carried on to a great extent at the present day in large
cities, and as I think it a great injury to the horse, in various ways,
I thought I would give this subject some attention in this book,
and in so doing it may do some good to the horse and owner.
In a recent number of Dunton's " Spirit of the Turf" I found
an article on this subject by Dr. G. S. Otis, so ably and well written
that I have taken the liberty to take a few extracts from it. " The
practice of clipping horses was introduced some sixty years ago
by Spaniards; and, according to Mr. Gamagee, it was also cus-
tomary in England, at one time, to shave the horse. After this
operation was completed the animal was as bare as the hide of a
pig that had just been killed, scalded and scraped, and if delayed
until the growth of the thick coat had subsided, the horse re-
mained throughout the winter naked like an elephant. Advo-
cates of clipping urge, and with perfect truth, that it diminishes
the labor of the groom; that it prevents the horse from sweating
in the stable, and that the animal perspires less at its work."
Prof. Going uses as an argument in its favor, " that owners reap
great benefits from it. Otherwise they would not have it done."
In our opinion, the practice of allowing an animal to run about
in full possession of natures' clothing during the summer heat,
and then to deprive them of every protection during the winter
months, is not only cruel to the animal but also highly injurious.
There are four depuratory surfaces—the skin, lungs, digestive
surface and kidneys. Each is continually eliminating materials,
many of which, if retained, would prove injurious to the ani-
mal. It has been estimated that a horse weighing eight hun-
dred pounds loses, in twenty-four hours, about fourteen pounds
and five ounces of fluid by insensible perspiration. That which is
caused by severe exercise is involved in much greater quan-
tity, and by accumulating on the surface it becomes visible
and forms sweat. This perspiration is a direct product of vital
process, and not a mere exudation of watery particles through
the skin, as many suppose. In the clipped horse the surface of
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GENERAL BEMARKS.                                      17
the body is easily chilled, the blood-vessels of the skin become
contracted in their diameter, partially shutting up the natural
outlet of the superfluous heat of the body, and at the same time
checks the exit of waste matter which ought to be thrown out,
and which is known to be as injurious to the animal's system as
an active poison administered to the horse through the mouth. The
skin, the bowels, the lungs and the kidneys sympathize readily with
each other, because they have all the common office of throwing
waste matter out of the system, each in a way peculiar to its own
structure, so that if the exhalation from the skin, for example, be
stopped, by matter which it was charged to excrete, it will most
probably be thrown upon one or other of the above named organs,
whose functions will become excited; and if any of them, from
constitutional or accidental causes be already weaker than the
rest, as often happens, its health will naturally be the first to suf-
fer. In this way the bowels become irritated in one animal, and
scouring is the consequence, while in another it is the kidneys that
become affected, giving rise to diabetes. Shepherds are well aware
that sheep, after being sheared, not infrequently die of tetanus,
inflammation of the lungs and bowels, and some are affected with
a peculiarly malignant form of erysipelas. Veterinary surgeons
are also aware that clipping the heels and legs df horses exposes
the skin to wet and dirt, causing inflammation, ulceration, deep fis-
sures in the heels, attacks of grease, swelling of the legs, stiffness
of the joints, etc. etc. If such pathological conditions arise from
clipping the heels and legs alone, what must the consequences be
where the whole body is denuded of hair ? But, says the advo-
cate of clipping, the horse should be well clothed and the stable
kept warm to make up for deficiency of the last coat. We will
here state that no number of blankets and no degree of stable-
heat, obtained as it is at the expense of purity of the atmosphere,
can make up for the uniformly distributed hairy coat. The hair,
being a bad conductor of heat, prevents that of the horses' body
from being quickly dissipated, and protects the animal from the
injurious influence of sudden external changes. Mayheu says the
clipped horse is a deformity. It requires no practical eye to see
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18                                       GENEBAL EEMABKS.
that the hair of the clipped horse is unnatural. It is lighter. A
black horse becomes a rusty brown; it is dull and stubborn, look-
ing most unlike that polished surface which is natural to the quad-
ruped. In conclusion, it is proper to state that clipping is being
carried on to a great extent in Chicago and other cities the pres-
ent winter. The weather thus far has been very mild, conse-
quently the amount of suffering to animals is somewhat reduced.
Otherwise many owners would have cause to regret that they
ever sanctioned the foolish practice of depriving the horse of its
natural protection, the hairy coat.
NOTES ON NURSING.
When a horse is ill he should be placed in a clean, well-ven-
tilated stable. Never, if you can help it, put a horse in a base-
ment stable, sick or well, if you can avoid it. Give them plenty
of air — it is cheap. Give your sick horse a large box stall, with
plenty of clean bedding, and as often as it becomes filthy, remove
it, particularly in colic. Sufficient clothing should be put on to
insure a comfortable degree of warmth. The legs should be
wrapped in flannel bandages, which should be removed occasion-
ally; the legs hand-rubbed, and put on again. In diet, follow the
cravings of the appetite. Give little and often. Good and clean
hay is always good in small quantities. Cold water and hay tea
should not be forgotten. Bran mashes are good in most illnesses,
and boiled linseed in cases of sore throats and colds. Carrots
and boiled oats are always relished during recovery from every
illness. Also, use green food when it can be got. Occasionally
it is necessary, when the horse is unable to eat, to give food in a
drench or injection. Avoid rough usage, both for humanity's
sake and for medical reasons. An angry word, or rough hand-
ling, causes a great increase of suffering. Always take the gen-
tle side. My ideas about taking care of well horses are to have
them fat in the fall. Then they are half wintered, if you keep
them in a warm stable, as you should in all cases. Try this, and
see if you do not winter your horses on nearly half of the usual
quantity of food.
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19
GENERAL REMARKS.
THE CHECK, OR THE OVER-DRAWN CHECK-REIN,
Is, I think, a general source of torture to the horse, for it forces
the head and neck out of its natural position. My idea is, that a
horse, in order to travel naturally and easy, should have the free
use of his head and neck. Then he is comfortable. If he has
naturally a high head, he will carry it so; if not, all you do by
checking to make him is a source of great torture. Some claim
that the reason they use the check is, it makes the horse look
stylish and graceful. I. do not think so. Some of the best horse-
men of the present day have discarded the check-rein altogether,
and especially the over-drawn, with a small separate bit, for that
draws directly up against the upper jaw or roof of the mouth,
and if used long will make the gums very sore. Now stop this
cruel treatment. If you do not think it is cruel, try it on your-
self. Draw your head back until your head forms a right angle
with your body, and you would be little less deformed than is a
horse in the position described. Every horse owner and driver
should discontinue a practice which is at once cruel, useless and
inelegant. Nothing to my eye looks so nice and comfortable on
a horse as a light bridle without blinders or cheek-rein, and I am
very glad to see so many adopting this plan.
GENERAL CAUSE OF LAMENESS IN HORSES..
Sprains, rheumatism, founder, swellings, diseases of bone, in-
juries to the feet, such as contraction, corns, quarter-cracks, par-
ing away the frog, braces and sole, burning the foot with a hot
shoe, the thrush, disease of the frog. Bad fitting collars will
lame the shoulders and make fistula and poll-evil; strain of the
knee joint, caused by too long toes and low heels. To cure, pare
down the toes and leave the heels alone. Put on high-heeled
; shoes, and bathe the whole legs with hot salt and water, and rub
the cords well with black oil liniment. This will cure bad
cases of knee-spring. In nearly all cases of lameness I put on
high-heeled shoes, bathe freely with hot salt and water, and use
the black oil liniment and bandage. This, with a few days'
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20                                       GENERAL REMARKS.
rest, will cure most cases if taken in time, and that is when they
first limp, for if they were not sore they would not limp. There
is no deception in a horse.
You will find cures under the proper heads.
NAVICULAR DISEASE.
This is a disease of the navicular bone that connects with the
coffin-bone, forming a combination joint of the coffin and navic-
ular bones in the hoof; the disease is caused (in nearly all cases)
by contraction of the foot, causing the cords, tendons, ligaments
and blood-vessels, to contract and make the joint stiff and sore;
the horse in traveling will chafe this joint, and it becomes in-
flamed and sore. There are other causes, such as strain and
bruises of all kinds, picking up nails, etc. The most successful
mode of treatment is to poultice for a few days with linseed meal,
and soak in warm salt and water; then use the black oil lini-
ment, and you will effect a cure; this will take the soreness out
and expand the foot; never blister or put in sections, it will do no
good.
CUPPED ANKLES.
This is caused by strain of the ankle joint, and if not attended
to at once the cords and ligaments will become sore, and the
horse will stand on his toe to relieve the joint, and in this way
the cords will contract; the mode of treatment is, first put on
high-heel calks, then bathe with vinegar, one quart; saltpetre,
one-quarter pound; oil of wormwood, one ounce; apply hot and
bandage tight, and in a little while your horse is well — if attend-
ed to at once.
LAMENESS IN THE STIFLE JOINT.
This is caused by slipping, causing strain of the stifle joint.
The ligaments that surround the joint will part and relax, and
the joint will slip out of place. Treatment: put on high heels
on the shoe, ferment the joint on and around with vinegar, one
quart; saltpetre, one-quarter pound; oil of wormwood, one ounce;
apply hot as you can, then bathe with the black oil liniment.
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GENERAL REMARKS.                                      21
Let the horse rest a few days in order that the joint and liga-
ments may become united again, and you will effect a cure.
CRUEL TREATMENT OP HORSES' FEET.
The treatment of horses' feet is a subject I have given much
thought to, as I have shod horses for over thirty-seven years. If
the people will allow me to give them a few hints which I con-
sider valuable, I may be the means of doing some good to the
horse and its owner, and save the torture which the former now
endures in consequence of improper shoeing. Some people think
(or act as though they did) that the horse's foot is a block of
i wood, susceptible of any kind of treatment. What makes me
think so is the way they treat it. Nearly all shoers in large
cities at the present day, unless told not to, cut the frogs, braces
| and soles and heels, leave the toe long, and then fit the shoe nar-
| row on the ball of the foot, and turn the heels out, and cut the
\ wall or shell at the quarters. They fit a shoe concaved, clear
j back to the heels, and then burn the foot with the hot shoe un-
: til it has a bearing. They also put on clips at the toe, and often
on the side, and burn them in, also. Now, all this treat-
ment I consider wrong and hurtful. Why do we shoe horses ?
• It is because we at the present day have macadamized and paved
streets and roads, and the horse's feet cannot stand the hard work
; required of him barefooted; consequently, we put iron on them
! to protect them, the same as ferrules on canes, tires on wagons,
etc. When we put iron on horses' feet, we should put it on so
that it will not be a source, of torture instead of a benefit. The
way to shoe a horse properly is to take a long look at the foot,
and find out what it is made of, and try to come at some rational
understanding as to the intention of the Creator when he made
; it, and leave it as we find it, except to protect the wall against
wear, and prevent them from slipping; for if we attempt to im-
prove on what the Creator has done, I think we will fail. The
way I shoe a horse is this: Look and see if the foot stands in a
natural position, so he stands upright, as we do. If so, level the
■wall to receive the shoe, and nothing more. Never cut the frog,
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22
GENERAL REMARKS.
braces and soles, nor the heels. Let nature do its own work. If
let alone, once in six weeks or two months the frog, braces and
soles will shed. Make the shoe light at the toe, heavy at the
heels (for the heels are the tender part of the foot). Put the
nails well forward of the quarters. Use light nails, concave the
shoe until you get to the quarter, to protect the soles, then con-
vex the heels a little, and you cannot make narrow heels, corns,
quarter-cracks or contracted feet. Fit the shoe cold, and fit it
to the foot, not the foot to the shoe. Follow the wall nicely.
Fit the shoe as broad as you can. Bring the heels around to the
frog, but not touch it. Never make the shoe longer than the
foot. Never use bar shoes; in every case they are wrong and
hurtful. Never rasp the outside wall, for you destroy the gloss
or enamel that protects it. This improper method of shoeing
is the cause of more lameness than any other one thing; it causes
corns, quarter-cracks and contracted feet. Whoever pares or
allows to be pared a horse's sole, brace or frog, and burns the foot
with a hot shoe in front or sides, is guilty of cruelty to the horse,
whose foot is so mutilated. No frog, no foot; no foot, no horse.
HORSE TALK.
Horses, I think, have reasoning powers, and are susceptible of
fine feelings. I imagine I hear a horse talk thus to his owner:
You and I are partners — we each have our respective labor to
perform; but I am the silent partner, and have been for some
time. Now, suppose we reverse it. You take the harness and
the shafts and haul the load, and I will take the reins and
whip. I will put the blinders on the bridle so you cannot see
only in front, then I can hit you with the whip before you can
see me. Then if something makes a noise behind you, or some-
thing passes by you and you get scared and shy out of the road
and nearly upset the wagon, I will yank and pull you back in the
road, and every step you take I will whip you, for you cannot see
only in front. I will learn you to keep the road. I will put on
the over-drawn check, and if you don't hold your head up to
suit me, I will make you, if I break your neck and spine in so
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GENERAL EEMAEKS.                                      23
doing. Then, when I stop and hitch you to eat post-meal for
three or four hours, I will leave you checked up to learn you to
hold your head my way. Then, if you slip in traveling, I will
take you to my horse-shoer and tell him that I want you shod fine
so that your feet will look nice. He will cut your frog, braces,
sole and heels, then fit the shoe to your foot hot and burn it to a
crisp, then nail it on and rasp the outside of the foot to make
it look nice; and if you do not stand, and without saying a word,
I will tell the shoer to hit you a few licks with the hammer to
bring you to your senses. If this does not do, I will hold you
while he puts the twitch on your nose. Then I guess you will
stand and learn some sense. Then if you get lame I will take
you to some shoer and tell him you have got corns and quarter-
cracks, your feet are withered, they are hot and full of fever. He
will say, I will fix that all right. I will put on bar-shoes, and
give you another cutting and burning. Then if you don't get
well, I will take you to a veterinary surgeon. He will put you
through an examination. He will say you are lame in the shoul-
ders ; he will rowel and blister your shoulders, and still you are
no better. Now, I will turn you out, I am sure that will cure
you. I will leave you out awhile—you are a little better. I will
bring you in, take you to be shod, and the shoer will give you
another cutting and burning, and in a little while you are as bad
as ever. Well, I think I will fix you up and sell you. Now, I
will take you to one of those horse-clippers, have your hair cut
and burnt off; then you will look nice, no matter if the pores of
your skin are closed and sore, and you break out with the mange.
You have nothing to say—you are mine. You are nothing but
a horse. Now, if you go through this kind of treatment and
live, you will know something that I have suffered at your hands.
SOAKING AND BATHING HORSES.
This is one of the most important subjects in this book. You
have a horse that is stiff in the shoulders, or he has been foun-
dered, or lame everywhere. You cannot use too much salt and
water. In the summer use it cold: in the winter use it hot as
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24
GENERAL REMARKS.
you can bear your hand in. Now, the way to do so is to take
an iron-bound coal-oil barrel, saw it off about to the third hoop;
then you hare a nice soaking tub. Put it about half full of salt
and water that will bear a potato; back your horse into a stall or
one corner, and tie his head with guide straps each way so he
cannot get out; then put his feet in there; take a sponge and
bathe him well clear to the top of shoulders; for if the horse is
foundered, or lame in the shoulders, he is lame clear to the feet,
for the cords run from the shoulders to feet; then cover the
shoulders with thick blankets, and bind the legs with woolen
bandages so as to ferment and sweat them. Now this is almost
indispensable in all stables, to use at night when you bring your
horse in. Put his feet in the tub; take a foot-hook and pick out
all the dirt in the foot, and if he has picked up a nail or stone
you will be sure to find it, and at the same time you will feed the
feet with moisture, and this is very important in cities on pave-
ments, for they do not get the moisture that they do in the coun-
try, and they require it to keep them from contracting and be-
coming dry and hard. Now I use another soaking-box or vat to
put the whole horse in and bathe him all over. Take two-inch
plank in the rough and spike it together; then take oakum and cork
the joints; then pitch them, and you have a good and cheap one.
The right size is two by five feet in the clear, eight to twelve in
depth; then put on side boards a little flaring, so the horse will not
step out, and they will catch the water as you bathe the horse.
This you can have on the stable floor. Lead the horse in at one
end and out at the other, then you can get all around him to
bathe. Use this, and you will see the benefit it is in keeping a
horse from galls, for you wash off all the sweat and dirt, and
toughen the skin. Use salt and water the same as in the other.
There is another mode of soaking and bathing a horse's feet, and
that is a soaking-boot. Some use a leather with a wood bottom;
others use a wire web to put a sponge in. The objections I have
to the first is, they soon wear out and are hard to keep on the
feet; the other is, when the horse puts his weight on the sponge
the weight presses out all the moisture in the sponge at once.
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25
GENERAL REMARKS.
There is a boot now made by B. Pitcher, author of this book.
This is the only sensible boot now made. It is made of malleable
iron, strong, durable, effective and cheap. It holds the sponge,
the sponge holds the moisture. You can also use it for a poltac-
ing boot.
BALKY HORSES AST) DRIVERS.
Some people think there are natural balky horses. I do not
think so. There are more balky drivers than horses, in my opinion,
and this is caused from the want of a proper understanding of the
true nature of the horse. The colt, in the state of nature, before
he is domesticated is in a state of ignorance of what a man wants
of him, and he has to be learned as you would a child going to
school, and if you do this in a proper manner you will not have
any balky horses. I have seen men pull on the lines and whip a
horse and halloo " whoa" and apply the whip, and do the same
thing to make them go ahead. Now, this is wrong. How does
the horse know which you mean ? Others will put on more load
than the horse can draw, and whip him if he does not haul it
out of a mud hole, and then he says, " damn you," when the horse
is doing all he can. Then he says you are balky, when the man
is the one that is balky. Try and learn some horse sense; treat
a horse as you would like to be treated yourself. Suppose you get
tired and sit down to rest, and your master would put dirt in your
ears or take a bundle of straw and set it on fire to make you get
up and go to work. What would you think ? You would feel
like kicking him over, and I wish some of the horses would do
the same thing. Treat a horse kindly and you will not have any
balky ones, and keep your temper down, and take off some of the
load. Give the horse a few gentle pats. It is better than high
pitched words and whips. Try it.
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26
POINTS OF THE UOKSE.
POINTS 07 THE HOESE.
23.  23. Bibs (forming together the bar-
rel or ch t).
24.  24. The circumference of the chest
at thia point, called the girth.
25.  The loins.
26.  The croup.
27.  The hip.
. Muzzle.
Nostril.
Forehead.
Jaw.
Poll.
NECK.
6. Crest.
, Thropple or windpipe
FOKE-QUARTER.
. Shoulder-blade.
Point of shoulder.
28.  The flank.
11
29.  The Bheath.
30.  The root of the dock or tail.
THE HIND-QUABTEB.
31.  The hip joint, round, or whirl-bone.
32.  The stifle-joint.
33.  33. Lower thigh or gaskin.
34.  Tile quarters.
35.  The hock.
36.  The point of the hock
37.  The curb place.
38.  The cannon-bone.
39.  The back tinew.
40.  Pastern or fetlock-join
41.  Coronet.
42.  Foot or hoof.
43.   Heel.
44.  Spavin-place.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
IS.
16.
IT.
18.
19,
20
Bosom or breast.
11. True-arm.
Elbow.
Forearm (arm).
Knee.
Cannon bone.
Black sinew.
Fetlock or pastern-joint.
Coronet.
Hoof or foot.
Heel.
BODY OB MIDDLBriBOB.
21.  Withers.
22.  Back.
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THE HORSE.
THE horse is one of the best and most abused servants that
our Creator has given to us for our use.
From the time he is taken up and put to work, or broken,
he is maltreated. Then he is as a child: he does not know
what you want of him. When you put the harness on him
and tell him to go he has not had any training, yet you expect
him to go at the word of command, and pull like an old horse,
without having learned how to do all this. Then, if he does
not obey, you get angry and begin to apply the whip, as you
think that all horses must be taught to do all you wish them
to do by the free use of the whip.
This, I think, is one of the worst of mistakes, for how does
the colt know what you are whipping him for? He does not
know the word "whoa" from the words "get up;"—how can
he, since he has never been taught? "But," says one, "how
can you teach a dumb brute?" I will say, in the same way
as you would a child. You take a child and try to teach it,
and every time it makes a mistake or does not do what you
tell or expect it to do, strike it with a whip, and what would
be the result? The child would always expect the whip, and
if you did not apply it he would not obey you. I think the
same is true of a colt. If you treat him kindly, and let him
know that you will not harm him, he is your obedient servant.
I find this true in shoeing colts. When a colt is taken
into a shop to be shod he does not know what he is there for
any more ^han a child that is taken into a school-room for the
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28
THE HOUSE.
first time. You must teach him. Let me tell you what was
the practice in New York, where I served my time.
When a colt was taken to a shop to be shod the owner
must needs procure a quart of whisky — as the smiths in those
days called it, a colt tail — before they would touch the colt.
Then both colt and whisky had to suffer. Now commences
the torture. The colt is in a strange place; he has no idea
why he is there; he sees the fire and hears the ring of the
anvil, and it necessarily frightens him. Then the smith, full
of whisky, commences the work. The colt flounders; the smith
says "whoa;" the colt don't know what that means and con-
tinues to struggle; the smith strikes him with the hammer,
but that does no good, for the colt is frightened. Now he
says, " Damn you, I'll fix you," and puts a twitch on his nose,
and three or four strong men hold him while the smith puts
on the shoes, but how, he does not care — any way to get them
on and get rid of the colt.
In this way he is shod. But how? His foot, that our
Creator made round, or nearly so, is cut and burnt until it
looks more like a clevis or a fiat iron than like a horse's foot;
and, my word for it, every time he comes to the shop you will
be obliged to go through the same process. Why? Because
that is the way he was taught, and he will always remain so
unless he is taught differently, and this may be done.
I am thankful that people are awakening more and more,
each day, to the study of the horse and how he should be
treated; and yet there are many at the present day that are
still treading the same beaten paths that their fathers trod.
Now, I will tell you how a colt should be shod and handled.
When he is taken to the smith shop he should have an old
horse with him for company. Hitch them and let them stand
for a short time. Then the smith should go to him, give him
a few gentle pats on the neck, rub his head and legs, and in
a few minutes the colt will allow you to do almost anything
yon wish with him. Why? Because he is not afraid.
Never get in a hurry in shoeing a colt, or keep his foot
■_'_-^
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29
THE HORSE.
up too long, for he will become tired and restless. Then dress
the foot properly. Always look at the foot when it is on the
floor and see if the horse stands level; if so, simply dress and
level the rim or shell; never cut the frog or braces, or the sole,
for when you do this you destroy the foot and take away what
our Creator put there for a most useful purpose, as will be
more fully explained hereafter. When you have the foot true
and level, so that the horse stands squarely and straight up,
then make the shoe to fit the foot. Bring it out to the edge
of the shell all around to the heels, and not as some do, after
they reach the quarter turn the heels out like to a bull's horns.
This is wrong, for the shoe presses on the outside of the shell of
the heels and presses the heels inward. This is, I think, one of
the grand causes of, and has more to do with, making narrow
and contracted feet than any other one thing. Make your shoes
as light as possible; concave them till near the heels, then make
them flat or a little convex. If you put on corks, put on short
ones, for it is hard work for a horse to travel set up on high
corks. Make the holes in the shoe small, so that you can use
small nails. This is very important, in order that, after the
nails are driven and clinched, they may not destroy the sur-
face of the shell. Do not rasp the shell more than is necessary,
and never above the clinches, for this destroys the enamel, or
gloss, and makes it hard and brittle, and it will contract and
grow rigid.
The shoe should be taken off in six weeks, the foot properly
dressed, and the shoe put back; for the foot in that time will
grow so much that the heels of the shoe will begin to rest on
the braces and do great harm. "But," says one, "you want
me to keep my horse in the shop all the time; besides, see
what it will cost me. Why, there is John Smith, he is the
best shoer I ever saw; he will make them stick three, four or
six months. He is my man." Now, we w\U see whether he
is or not. It is not the man that makes the shoe "stick" the
longest that is the best, but he that keeps the foot in good
order, and makes the horse travel easily.
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30
THE HOKSE.
Now we will take a horse that has had his shoes on for a lon£
time, for the sake of economy, and how do we find him ? He
will stumble; his coffin and pastern joints are sore; his knees
are sprung; he goes stumbling along, and in a short time the
cords of his legs will contract and the contraction extend to the
shoulder. Your horse is lame; you go to a horse doctor; he
will bleed, blister and lay your horse up, and then charge you
ten or twenty dollars. And still you are satisfied because you
have done all you can. You ran to the doctor instead of listen-
ing to reason, as given to you by that ignorant blacksmith, that
wanted you to have your horse shod often and kept in good order.
Your horse is ruined. Who is your friend ? Is this economy ?
There are many ways by which the horse's foot may be
spoiled, if we are to credit all that is said and written on the
. subject. One says at once, when looking at a foot that shows
signs of disease: " Been fed when heated, or drank too much
cold water." Another, " Stood on a hard floor too much; ought
to have clay in his stall." Another, " Ate too much meal; oats
are better for horses; meal too heating." But the genuine horse-
man at once exclaims, " He's seen some thunder," which means,
in ordinary English, " hard drawing."
It is almost impossible to get a horse shod without having the
frog cut away. All veterinary surgeons, all leading blacksmiths,
agree that the frog should not be pared one particle, not even
trimmed. No matter how pliable and soft the frog is, cut it
away smooth on all sides, and in two days it will be dry and hard
as a chip. You might as well cut all the leaves off trees and
expect them to flourish, as to pare away the frog and leave a
healthy foot. The rough, spongy part of the frog is to the foot
what leaves are to the tree — the lungs.
The horse's foot is a most wonderful piece of mechanism, and
excites far more surprise and admiration than the feet of all
other creatures. So wonderful, indeed, is it, that any one who
had not closely studied its structure and functions would scarcely
believe the hard, insensible hoof could contain such a multi-
plicity of beautiful arrangements, all adapted to serve most
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31
THE HORSE.
important purposes and to render the animal so useful to man-
kind. The bones are constructed and placed with a view to
speed, lightness and strength; ligaments of marvelous tenacity
bind them together so firmly that disunion is all but impossible,
while they are so ingeniously disposed as not to hinder in the
slightest degree the remarkably swift and easy movements of the
bones upon each other; elastic pads and cartilages are situated in
those parts of the foot where they are most required to protect
it from jar, and serve to compensate for the absence of the toes,
which are seen on the feet of all other creatures, except the horse
species. All these parts are covered by a living membrane,
which envelops them like a sock, and is exquisitely sensitive, in
addition to being everywhere covered by fine networks of blood
vessels in the greatest profusion. This membrane endows the
foot with the sense of touch, without which the horse could not
be so sure footed, nor run with such astonishing speed; and it
also furnishes the blood from which the hoof is formed. The
hoof itself, so rough, insensible, and to all appearances scarcely
worthy of observation, reveals a world of wonders after we have
exhausted those to be found in its interior. It is made of fibres,
all growing in one direction—toward the ground — and that
direction the most favorable for sustaining strain. These fibres
are extremely fine, and they are hardest and most resisting on
the outer surface; each is a tube, composed of thousands of
minute cells, so arranged as to confer strength and durability,
while the tubular form of the fibre insures lightness. Each part
of the hoof has its own share of responsibility in protecting the
living parts it contains. The wall is the portion we see when
the horse is standing firmly on the ground. It grows from the
upper parts of the foot, the coronet, and this growth is always
going on to counterbalance the wear that is taking place at its
lower border. Its outer surface is beautifully dense and smooth
in the natural state, and altogether the wall is perfectly adapted
to meet the wear that occurs when the horse is running at liberty
in an unshod state. This is also the part on which the shoe rests,
and through which the farrier drives the nails that attach it.
-ocr page 31-
32
THE HORSE.
When the foot is lifted up backward, we see the sole and frog.
The sole is the part that lies within the wall; it is slightly hollow
in a good foot, and is thick, strong and covered with flakes of
loose horn in one which has not been pared by a farrier's knife.
The frog is a soft triangular piece of horn in the middle of the
sole, toward the heel. It is very elastic and serves a most im-
portant purpose, as it acts as a cushion to prevent concussion,
and also hinders the horse from slipping. The sole, frog and
lower border of the wall have all to come in contact with the
ground and loose stones; therefore, nature has furnished them
with an abundance of horn to make them strong enough to bear
the horse's weight, withstand wear and keep the delicate parts
inside from injury.
So long as the horse is not compelled to work on hard roads
his hoofs are well suited to all that is required of him; but our
civilization demands that we should have paved and macadam-
ized streets, and on these the hoofs would be quickly worn away,
especially if the horse had to carry or draw heavy loads; conse-
quently lameness would ensue. It is, therefore, absolutely neces-
sary to prevent this mishap by shoeing the hoof with iron, as we
shoe carriage wheels with tires, the ends of walking sticks with
ferrules, etc. This shoeing has been a great boon to mankind, as
it has rendered the horse a hundred-fold more useful than he
otherwise would be, and has made him independent of the kind
of road over which he has to travel.
The number of horses tortured and ruined by unreasonable
paring and rasping, in addition to the heavy shoes, too small for
the feet an'd badly formed, is beyond computation. The frog,
braces, or bars, and sole should never be pared; they flake off
gradually when they have reached a certain and proper thickness,
which is once a month; and as they have to come in contact
with the inequalities of the ground, and with the loose sharp
stones so frequently on its surface, is it not reasonable to urge
that they should be allowed to retain their natural condition ?
Whoever pares, or causes to be pared, a horse's soles, or braces or
bars or frogs, or burns the foot with a shoe, or puts clips on the
_... ...',.. ■■■- -■'■■
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33
THE HOESE.
shoe, either in front or on the sides, is guilty of cruelty to the
horse whose feet are so mutilated. No frog, no foot; no foot, no
horse.
The front of the wall should never be rasped. It destroys it,
and makes it thin and brittle. It ought to be allowed to retain
its close, glossy, tough surface, so well adapted 'for resisting the
weather and holding the nails. As the wall is always growing,
and as the shoe prevents its being worn down to a natural length,
when the old shoe is taken off, in the operation of shoeing, the
lower end only of this part of the hoof should be rasped down
until the excess of length has been removed, nothing more.
The shoes should be as light as possible, and fastened on with
as small a number of nails as will retain them, and never should
be allowed to remain on the foot over four weeks. They ought
to be the full size of the circumference of the hoof, and the hoof
should never be made to fit the shoe, but the shoe to fit the hoof.
A proper and rational method of shoeing is a boon to the
horse and its owner; an improper method, which destroys the
integrity of the hoof and wearies the limbs, is a curse and a tor-
ture to the one, and loss and annoyance to the other.
When horses go to be shod at a forge, care should be taken
that they are not ill-treated or frightened, porticularly young
horses. By bad treatment, or unskillfulness in handling their
legs and feet, they are frequently made so timid and vicious that
severe measures have to be resorted to in order to insure safety
to the farrier while he is shoeing him. A few kind words, a few
pats on the neck, a few gentle strokings of the limbs, and a little
persuasive coaxing, will prove a thousand-fold more effectual in
inducing horses to be patient in shoeing than all the harsh, loud-
pitched words, hard knocks, twitches on the nose, and other un-
meaning and unhorsemanlike proceedings can do. A humane
and intelligent farrier is a boon to every community; but one
who is harsh, inobservant, and pays no attention to perfecting
his most useful art, is a torturer of animals and a destroyer of
property.
Farriers, of all men who have to do with horses, can confer
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THE HOKSE.
upon these good creatures the greatest amount of relief and
comfort, by attending to the simple indications of nature, and
using their own common sense and judgment, instead of adhering
to stupid and blind routine, which never improves, but, on the
contrary, retrogrades. Every lover of the horse should see that
its beauty is not deformed, or its utility marred by a system
which is as outrageous to the meanest comprehension as it is
disgraceful to the age we live in. The more we understand the
great Creator's merciful intentions, the less likely are we to
thwart them.
I have told you that you must teach a colt as you would a
child. Now for how to do it. When a colt gets to be two or
three years old you should begin to handle him, by patting him
every time you approach him. Give him some name, he will
soon learn it; give him an ear of corn, some salt or grass every
time he comes where you are, for he will soon learn to like you.
Then commence to handle his limbs and feet; put on a halter
and lead him; then put on a bitting bridle, turn him in the
barn-yard, and by gentle means—not with a whip — teach him
the word "whoa," the most important word you can teach the
horse, since, when in after years anything goes wrong, and you
speak the word "whoa," he will stop, because he was taught to
do so at the sound of that word.
The next thing to do is to teach him the words "get up" or
" go ahead." The bits should be put on once every day, for a
week or ten days, but for a short time only, say one or two hours,
that he may not become over-tired. Then put on a complete
harness, turn him in the yard, and let him run for a time, for a
few days. Then get a log of wood or a sled and hitch him to it,
and drive him around the yard until he has learned the use of
the bits, and will obey when you pull the reins; then hitch him,
with an old horse, to a sleigh or wagon, and drive him slowly,
always on a walk. This is one of the most important gaits of a
horse — a fast walk; if he has a fast trot or run in him, he will
show it of himself. Never try to make more of a horse than he
really is, for if you do you will surely fail. And let me here say
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THE HORSE.
this: In handling colts always control yourself; don't get ex-
cited. Follow these directions, and you will have good, obedient
horses, safe to drive anywhere.
In working horses, feed liberally, work steadily and clean
thoroughly is my motto. My great trouble is to have the horses
rubbed dry and clean before leaving them for the night. Have a
bucket of salt and water, with a quart of vinegar in it, always in
the barn. Use it freely on breast, legs and back, wipe dry, and
you will never have sore horses. Use a foot hook, clean out the
feet well, and wash with the salt and water; put them in the
water and wash thoroughly; you cannot give them too much
moisture. The dirt gets under the shoes and becomes as hard as
the iron, consequently it must be painful to the sole of the foot;
the water softens the dirt, and the foot hook takes it out. Did
you ever wash your feet before going to bed ? Try it on a horse,
and see if he will not say, "Thanks."
Where horses are worked six days in the week, thorough
grooming is absolutely essential to their health. The more
highly they are fed the more important it is to clean them.
Most men use the currycomb too much, and the whisk and
brush too little. I do not myself insist upon it, but I believe it
would pay always to take the whole harness from the horse when
put in the stable at noon, and don't be in too great a hurry to go
to dinner, but rub them dry, washing the shoulders with salt
and water, afterward thoroughly drying them with a cloth. I
question if one farmer in a hundred duly appreciates how much
he loses from having poor horses, and in not keeping them in
vigorous health, and in a condition to do a maximum day's
work.
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VETERINARY.
IPKESENT these receipts with confidence, since I have, by
experience, fully tested their value.
BREEDING HORSES.
This is one of the most important subjects in this book — to
breed good stock. You have a mare that is crippled; she is not
worth anything for work, but is good stock; she has raised you
several colts that is fine, and you don't want to kill her; but
she is old and will not breed any longer. What are you to do ?
You say: " I have used the best horses ^hat I can find, but to no
purpose." Now I think I can show you how to breed the oldest
mare that you have, even to twenty years old, and raise a colt
every year, without any trouble, provided you follow my direc-
tions. When you have a mare that has not had a colt for some
time, either from old age, or, as you think, from barrenness, and
she will come around in season, or, as the saying is, she is " hors-
ing," you examine her, by putting your hand into the opening,
with the fingers held out straight, bearing upward toward the
backbone, until you reach the womb or the mouth of the womb.
This is a small lump about the size of a walnut. Then, with
the fingers, ascertain if the opening of the womb is closed; if so,
open it easily, first with one finger, then two, then three, until
you are sure it is open, so that the womb will receive the dis-
eharge of the horse, and you will get any mare that will get a
horsing with foal, even if she has not had a colt for two or three
years. If you have one of this description, and you are anxious
to breed her, have her examined first, then you are sure that she
will breed. After the operation, let her stand one or two hours
before you let the horse to her, or over night is better, if you can.
This never fails.
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BROOD MARES, COWS, ETC.
All brood mares and cows, say from three months from the
commencement of pregnancy and up, are liable to have a pre-
mature flow of milk to the udder or milk veins. The udder and
milk veins will become painful, swollen and full of fever, and if
not relieved, will'cause serious trouble, and will cause ulcers, and
have to be lanced, and if not attended to in time will cause death.
Cure.—Use the soft-soap salve after first washing the udder
or milk veins freely with warm soap suds, and wipe dry. Thea
move the bowels and urine if relief does not come. This is good
to do in any case; and bathe the loins with black oil liniment
to strengthen secretion.
SHOE BALLS, AS THEY ARE CALLED.
This is a lump or callus on the inner side of the fore leg, or
the upper end of the fore arm near the body, and is caused
by the horse lying down on the hoof and shoe of the same
foot. Many horses do this from habit, the same as horses will
crib, or, as they are called, wind suckers. For wind suckers
there is no remedy that I have ever found. For shoe balls I
blister, and make the lump or callus sore, so that the horae will
take his hoof away, for it will hurt him, and the blister wiU
remove the lump; then apply any salve to heal up the blister,
take off the heels of the shoe, and in this way you will cure the
horse and break him of this bad habit.
FOR BREAKING OF BAD HABITS.
The Blinders Prevent Seeing Plainly.— It must be remem-
bered that the blinders in general use to cover up the eyes so as
to make it impossible to see things plainly sideways, and wholly
so from behind, must tend to this result; and certainly we are
convinced of this, when we see that to overcome the animal's
fear of any object, the first and most obvious point is to induce
an understanding of its appearance and character. Blinders are
admissible only when there is a desire to conceal the defects of a
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large head, and to cause a naturally lazy horse to drive steadily,
by preventing his ability to see when the whip is about to be
applied. But in general terms I would say, never use the
blinders—it is undoubtedly wrong.
The Horse must See the Object of Fear from Different Posi-
tions.—It is one of the peculiarities of the horse to understand
and be reconciled to an object, or cause of excitement, only from
the position and circumstances brought to his notice. This
seems to be on account of the horse's reasoning powers being so
limited as to be unable to retain the same understanding of the
object beyond the position from which it is brought to notice.
Every progressive change of position requires almost the same
care and patience of that preceding; for example, if in teaching
a horse to become regardless of an umbrella, it were shown only
from the near side, upon carrying it to the other side it would
inspire nearly as much fear as at first from the near side; or
there may be aversion to some particular object, or resistance may
be inspired only under certain circumstances. You may succeed
in getting a colt gentle to be ridden from the near side, but upon
attempting to do so from the off side, would, in all probability, be
resisted. A gentle horse, upon being hitched to a top buggy for
.the first time, upon getting a glimpse of the top over the blind-
ers, became so alarmed as to defy all control, kicked clear of the
carriage and ran away, was as usual gentle and fearless to an open
buggy, but would not bear a top. A fine young stallion, perfectly
regardless of a locomotive, and apparently of everything else,
was so frightened by the sound and appearance of an engine
suddenly from behind, which was a position he had never seen it
in before, that he kicked himself clear of the wagon and got
away, and would thereafter not only kick in harness upon hear-
ing the least rattle or unusual sound, but would not bear a loco-
motive. The impulse of fear first induced by the engine prompted
the kicking, which brought the feet in contact with the crosspiece
of the shafts, which increased his terror, and associating thereby
the wagon with the engine, its rattling noise became a cause of
equal repugnance as that of the engine or cars.
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A high spirited but gentle mare was taken to a smith
shop; the smith struck her sharply with his hammer two or
three times for not standing or submitting the foot to his sat-
isfaction, which so frightened the mare that she would not
bear any one having a leather apron on to go near her, or
allow her feet to be handled. Have frequently found instances
of horses being gentle single, but vicious and unmanageable
double, and gentle double, but not single, etc.
These peculiarities imply the necessity, as experience proves,
of forcing an understanding of the object from every side, and
in every manner it is usually seen by him in use.
If, for instance, a horse is afraid of an umbrella while in
harness, he may be taught to care nothing about it out of har-
ness ; but if not taught to feel and understand its character in
harness, would be apt to be as much frightened at it in that
position as if he knew nothing about it.
This seems to puzzle many well meaning men, and is often
the cause of much disappointment.
A horse that is afraid of an umbrella is brought forward to
illustrate the management of such habits. In a short time the
horse will bear the umbrella over and around him in any man-
ner without seeming to care anything about it. The owner is
pleased with the belief that his horse is broken; when in har-
ness at some future time he raises an umbrella behind the
animal, and is astonished to find him as bad as ever, and he
naturally condemns the instruction as of no account; and, in-
deed, without reflection, this would seem to be about the truth
of the matter.
But when it is seen, in the first place, that it is often ne-
cessary to repeat the lesson several times a day, possibly for
days, to fix an impression of the harmless character of the ob-
ject, and in the second place that it is necessary to give the
horse the same understanding of the object in harness, that
expecting the animal to be broken of the habit by a single
direct lesson only tends to defeat success, for without ability
to control the horse every attempt to force upon him the ob-
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ject of aversion only inspires greater resistance, because taught
to a still greater degree to resist control, and a sense of free-
dom always tends to increase the animal's fear of the object.
Now, the efforts of the owner to control the horse directly, in
a position of so great disadvantage, may produce exactly this
result, and then, in ignorance of the cause of the failure, it is
believed impossible to make the horse gentle.
The main point of success in overcoming nervous sensibility
is in the tact of preventing the horse from becoming fright-
ened from any cause, and when excited with fear of an object,
as circumstances and opportunity will permit, to let him see
and understand that it is harmless. Let the object be seen and
brought to his notice from different directions, and, above all,
the lesson must be repeated day after day, if necessary, so long
as the animal shows any fear of the object, otherwise the effort
will be useless, and the horse made more unmanageable and
timid than before.
The management of old horses of this character is virtually
the same as that of colts, the only difference being in the greater
restraint necessary to overcome the extreme resistance a great
sense of fear may cause. A horse excited with great fear of
an object may not only try with all the energy of despair to
free himself from restraint and get away, but fight most wick-
edly. Indeed, I regard a horse feeling extreme fear of an object
as being in one sense the most difficult and dangerous we have
to encounter. He is likely at any instant to throw all his
strength into the contest for freedom, and if held near the object
may strike and kick at it with all the recklessness of despair.
The control of such should be made as severe as possible by
thorough training with the rope halter. Then tie down as tight
as possible. The horse will be so disconcerted and disabled by
this that he is unable either to wholly concentrate his attention
upon the object or resist the severe strain upon the mouth. If
an umbrella, robe or anything of the kind is the cause of fear, it
can now be brought gently to his notice, and, as he will bear it,
against his nose, head, neck and body, as before described.
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EECEIPTS.
Should the animal prove to be not only extremely nervous,
but vicious, tie the head to the tail, as for balking, etc., and
keep the horse moving until resistance becomes impossible, and,
while tied, force an understanding of the object, gradually giv-
ing freedom, and repeating the lesson as may be necessary. If
a top wagon is the cause of fear, get thorough control of the
mouth with the rope halter, then gradually work the horse up
to the wagon, rattling it, etc. Then lead him into the shafts,
and, as he will bear, turning him around and backing him into
and pulling the shafts upon him, raise and lower the top, etc.,
repeating the lesson as may be found necessary. "When the
horse is attached to the wagon the top should be lowered and
the greatest care should be taken to have the harness strong,
and every detail of the hitching perfect, and to guard against
possible resistance or accident attach a strap to one or each of
the fore feet, with the ends carried over the bellyband back to
the wagon, and hold it with the reins. Such a horse, it must
be remembered, is likely to do his utmost to get away, and as
it is not always possible to control by the reins, the advantage
of controlling by the feet becomes indispensable. The horse
must now be driven and made to submit to control with the
top up or down at will, until regardless of it and perfectly
manageable.
HOOF LIQUID.
For tender feet, hoof-bound, etc.: Eaw linseed oil, or neat's
foot oil, one-half pint of either; turpentine, four ounces; oil of
tar, six ounces; origanum, three ounces. Shake this well and
apply freely once a day on the hoof, inside and outside. Apply
at night after having first washed and dried the foot; this for
horses that have been lame and contracted long. It is very pene-
trating and will take out the soreness. Keep the horse at work
moderately.
BLACK OIL LIKIMESTT.
One-half pint spirits of turpentine; one pint raw linseed oil;
one-half ounce oil of vitriol; one ounce tincture of hartshorn;
one-half ounce oil of wormwood. Put all, except the vitriol, to-
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KECEIPTS.
gether; then put the vitriol in, and stir with a pine stick until
cool; the vitriol will make it warm. Make it in a stone crock;
never put it in tin, or take any inwardly. This I consider one of
the best cure-alls ever compounded. I have made and used it for
twenty-five years. In 1856 I sold this receipt to a merchant of
Cedar Kapids, Iowa, for fifty dollars. I always keep some in the
shop, and have sold large quantities of it. In horses, it will cure
poll evil when it first comes, and will kill it when it has been
neglected until the pipes are formed; it will cure it in six weeks,
and leave no scar. I will give directions for its use hereafter.
It cures stiff joints, sore shoulders, greasy heels, contracted
cords, scratches, galls, cuts, bruises, etc. In the family it is
almost indispensable for sprains, cuts, bruises, burns, chapped
hands, etc. In salt-rheum, rheumatism or anything else in which
you use liniment of any kind, it has never failed.
STIFF SHOULDERS OR SWEENY.                      ,
Produce a counter irritation by making an incision, about five
inches from the wethers, down on the shoulder-blade; then take
hold of the skin on either side of the incision with the fore-
finger and thumb of each hand, and draw outward; by so doing
the air is forced in. Then rub and force the air all around the
shoulder-blade, from top to bottom. Use the black-oil liniment
freely, once a day, rubbing hard. Wash with salt and water that
will bear up an egg, with a quart of strong vinegar in it. Use
this in the morning and liniment in the evening. This will cure
any case of long or short standing. Let the horse work moder-
ately.
HOOF-BOUND OR TENDER FEET.
Cause.—Fever in the feet, founder, or gravel, corns, etc.
Symptoms.—The feet are hot, hoof and frog dry, hard and con-
tracted.
Cure.—Take off the old shoe, pare the foot level, or a little
the lowest at the toe, but never cut the frog or braces; take a
figure five shoe, light at the toe, heavy at the heels, concaved
at the toe and sides and con vexed at the heels; fit it truly and
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nicely; let it rest easily on the heels; put the nails well forward
of the quarter and one in the toe; fit the shoe as wide as possible
on the balls, and follow the heels around; if the shoe touches at
the heels, the convexed heels will force them outward. Use
small nails; set the shoe once in every four weeks, and use
weak lye and Furlong's Boots.
HOOF-AIL IS SHEEP.
Muriatic acid and butter of antimony, of each two ounces;
white vitriol, pulverized, one ounce. Mix; lift the foot up and
put a little on the bottom. It need be applied only once or twice
a week—as often as they limp. It kills the old hoof and a new
one takes its place. Have no fear in using it, it has been well
tested.
CRACKED OE GREASY HEELS.
• Cause.—Over feeding and want of exercise, or standing in a
filthy stable.
Symptoms are well known: A discharge of offensive matter
from the frog of the foot, or around the top of the foot; often
the frog will come out, and sometimes the whole foot will come
off; in that case kill the horse.
Cure.— Clean the foot out thoroughly, by using warm soap-
suds; then rinse with vinegar and water, an equal amount of
each; then use the black oil liniment once a day. You must
wash as well-as use the liniment every day. Pare the foot down
more than you would to shoe, and weaken the heels; then the
foot will spread. While you are curing, keep him on a clean,'
dry floor for about two weeks, and your horse is well.
SOFT-SOAP SALVE.
Kosin, one-half pound; beeswax, one-half pound; mutton tal-
low, one-half pound; gum camphor, four ounces; soft-soap, six
ounces. Put the first three in a saucepan and dissolve; add the
others while cooling; put into a tin can and keep tightly covered.
This is one of the best salves for the human family in use.
Por pains, swellings of all kinds, broken breasts, or before the
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breast breaks, in scattering the swelling, it is invaluable; also
in swollen or caked udders on cows. Wash the udder and apply
the salve three or four times, and the swelling will all disappear.
Also, for cuts, burns, etc., upon children, it is extremely useful.
Make and use it, and you will be convinced.
GREEN MOUNTAIN SALVE.
To make: Rosin, two and a half pounds; Burgundy pitch,
mutton tallow, beeswax, of each, two ounces; oil of hemlock,
balsam of fir, oil of origanum, oil of red cedar and Venice tur-
pentine, of each, one-half ounce; oil of wormwood, one-half
ounce; verdigris, finely pulverived, one ounce. Melt the first
articles together and add the oils, having first rubbed the verdi-
gris up with a little of the oils, and put the verdigris in while it
is cooling. Take it out, and work as you would molasses-candy,
into sticks, and it is ready for use.
MILD GENERAL LINIMENT.
Neat's foot oil, one quart; spirits of turpentine, one pint;
aqua ammonia, two ounces ; oil of wormwood, one ounce; crude
petroleum, half pint. Mix and shake before using.
FRESH WOUNDS.
First stop the blood by tying the arteries or by applying the
following wash: four grains of nitrate of silver; one ounce of
soft water. Wet the wound with this, then draw the edges
together by stitches one inch apart; then wash clean, and if
there be any swelling in twenty-four hours, bleed and apply the
black oil liniment. Keep the bowels open.
FOUNDER.
Symptoms.—The horse is stiff, his feet are hot, he often trem-
bles, is thirsty.
Cure.—Take off the shoes, pare down the toes, not the heels,
until they are near bleeding; then bleed in the toe thoroughly.
Let the shoes remain off until the next day, for you may wish to
bleed again if he does not get better. Some bleed in other places,
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but in all cases of founder the blood settles in the extremities;
hence I think that is the proper place to take it from. Then
give the following; one half ounce of aloes, four drachms of
gamboge, one half ounce oil of sassafras; make this into a pill;
give him all the sassafras tea he will drink; bathe his legs well
with warm water often, and rub them dry. In two or three
days he is well.
HOOF OINTMENT.
Take rosin, four ounces; beeswax, six ounces; lard, one
pound; melt together and pour into a pot with three ounces of
turpentine, two ounces of verdigris finely powdered, and one
pound of tallow; stir until cool. This is to soften and make the
hoof grow tough in cases of founder and contracted hoofs.
PHYSIO BALL.
One half ounce aloes, four drachms of gamboge, twenty drops
oil of juniper; make into a ball with a few drops of molasses;
wrap in a thin paper, and grease it; draw out the tongue with
the left hand, place a gag in the mouth, run the ball back until
it drops off, give a little water; give the horse a mash before and
after.
HOW TO FATTEN THE POOREST HOESE.
Take nitric acid, three drachms; saleratus, two ounces; salt-
petre, three ounces; black antimony, three ounces; assafcetida,
three ounces; mix, and give one tablespoonful in every mess for
two weeks, and your horse is fat, if you give him good care and
plenty of good feed. This for jockeying.
RINGBONE, SPAVIN, CURB SPLINT, TOROUGH, PIN OR WIND-
GALLS, AND STOCKED ANKLES OR HILK LEG.
Cure.— Oil of origanum, tincture iodine, oil stone, tincture
of camphor, spirits turpentine, tincture cantharides, corrosive
sublimate, oil of cedar, croton oil, gum euphorbium, of each one
ounce; mix with ten ounces hog's lard. Then cut off the hair
the size of the lump; use the ointment lightly once a day for
three days, then leave off for three days and grease with castor
oil, to preserve the roots of the hair, then wash it clean with soap
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and water; use as before, and so on, for twenty-four days and
your horse will be cured of his lameness and the lumps will be
removed, if not united to the general bone.
WHITE OINTMENT.
For rheumatism, sprains, cuts, burns, swellings, bruises, or
inflammation of man or beast, chapped hands or lips, black
eyes, or any kinds of bruises: Take fresh butter, two pounds;
tincture of iodine, one ounce; oil of origanum, two ounces. Mix
this well for fifteen minutes and it is fit for use. Apply it every
night; rub it in well with the hands; if for the human flesh lay
on warm flannel.
LIQUID BLISTER.
Alcohol, one-half pint; turpentine, one-half pint; aqua am-
monia, four ounces; oil of origanum, one ounce. Cut off the
hair and apply every three hours until it blisters; repeat in eight
days; if oftener it will kill the hair.
CONDITION POWDER.
Finagrieke, Powdered,         -         -         -                  4 Ounces.
Ginger,              "                      .... 2 "
Golden Seal, "              ! -         -         -         - 2 "
Assafbetida, "                      .... 2 "
Nitre, pure, '*                  ....        4 "
Poplar Bark, "                      .... 4 "
Mix and use as occasion requires. Dose, one tablespoonful
three times a day.
TO REMOVE WARTS ON HORSES.
Muriate of ammonia, two drachms; powered savin, one ounce;
lard, twelve ounces. Mix all together, and it is ready for use.
Apply daily, and in a little while they will come off.
BIG OR MILK LEG.
This is brought on by a hurt or by a want of action in the
absorbent system. It is dropsy of the muscle of the leg.
Cure.—Apply the liquid blister every three or four hours
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until it blisters; then, in six hours, grease with soft oil of any
kind; in eight days wash the parts clean with warm soap suds
and apply it again. Eepeat it three or four times, then use the
white ointment. If this does not remove it apply the spavin
medicine, that will remove it.
TO KILL LICE OK ANIMALS.
Take four ounces coculous indicus and boil for thirty min-
utes in two quarts of vinegar, then wash or rub the animal where
the lice or nits are, and they will be dead in one hour.
FISTULA OE POLL EVIL.
To cure, before it breaks out, use the black oil liniment freely
twice a day, rubbing hard with the hand. After breaking, sponge
thoroughly with warm soap suds, then rinse with vinegar and
water, equal quantities of each; wipe dry. Then apply the black
oil liniment twice a day, and you are sure of a cure, even after
the pipes have been formed. There will be no scar.
BLUE OINTMENT.
Take one-half ounce of verdigris, one ounce of blue vitriol,
four ounces of rosin, one ounce spirits of turpentine. Grind all
fine; mix well with one pound of lard, and it is fit for use. This
is good to put on after blistering and on sores generally.
LOCK-JAW.
There is nothing that has baffled the skill of the best doctors,
both for dumb brutes and for humans, than the curing of this
disease.
The following I got from Dr. Menso White, of Cherry Valley,
New York, over thirty years since, and it has never failed where
it has been thoroughly tried. The cause is, generally, taking
cold in a wound. The first thing to do is to bleed, until the
patient shows signs of weakness and the limbs relax. Then find
the wound and wash with warm soap suds; take strong plug
tobacco and steep in hot water; make a poultice of this, bind it
on the wound, and wet the poultice and bandage, and keep it
warm and wet. You cannot get too much on it. Then take
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some dry smoking tobacco, put it m a pan, set it on the fire, blow
it with a hand bellows or a pipe, and hold it under the nostrils.
In a short time the jaws will open; then put a gag in. Give
two ounces tincture of assafoetida every six hours and a dose of
physic. If this will not cure, there is no cure. If there is no
wound that you can find, put on a large poultice along the back
and loins; cover with two or three blankets, and rub the limbs
with strong hot salt and water; bleed and smoke the same. For
the human family do the same, only smoke with a clay pipe filled
with tobacco; put the bowl in your mouth and blow smoke in
the face. The object is to relax the whole system.
SURE CURE FOR PILES.
External Application.—Inner bark of white oak tree. Boil
and strain, and boil again until you get half pint of the extract
very thick; then add half pint of the oil of oldest and strongest
bacon you can procure; simmer together till a union takes place
when cold; then apply by the finger up the rectum every night
until well. Be very strict to abstain from strong and stimulat-
ing diet. The above is a sure cure for blind or bleeding piles, in
all cases, sooner or later.
SPLINT AKD SPAVIN- LINIMENT.
Take a large-mouthed bottle and put into it: oil of origanum,
six ounces; gum camphor, two ounces; mercurial ointment, two
ounces; iodine ointment, one ounce. Melt by putting the bottle
into a kettle of hot water. Apply it to bone spavin or splint
twice daily for four or five days; the lameness will trouble you
no more. Try this; this alone is worth twice the price of the
book.
LOVE DROPS, TO MAKE A HORSE LIKE YOU.
Take the horse castor or wart that grows on the inside of the
leg; grate fine; give him a little on loaf sugar, apple or potato;
or take the oil of cumin in a small phial; put a few drops on
your hand and get a little on his nose or tongue; or use the oil
of rhodium in the same way. Keep all these separate in air-tight
bottles; never use more than eight drops at a time. Put a little
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of the oil of cumin on your hands and go on the windward
side of your horse in the field, and he will allow you to catch
and halter him.
PHTSIC FOB CATTLE.
Barbadoes aloes, two drachms; tartrate of potassa, one-half
drachm; ginger and castile soap, each one drachm; oil of anise
or peppermint ten drops; glauber salts, eight ounces. Dissolve
all in gruel, one quart, and give as a drench. For horses give
double the quantity of i*±L vK above, except the salts. Make into
a ball. Before giving a hi>,ee physic, give scalded bran mash,
instead of corn or oats, for two days at least; give water that
has had the chill taken off, and continue this food and drink
during the operation. If it should not operate within forty-eight
hours, repeat half the dose.
DISTEMPEB.
To Distinguish and Cure.—If it is thought that a horse has
the distemper, and you don't feel certain, knead up bran with weak
lye; if not too strong, he will eat freely of it. If he has the dis-
temper a free discharge from the nostrils and a consequent cure
will be the result if continued for a few days; but if only a cold,
with swelling of the glands, no change will be discovered.
TO BESTOBE LOSS OF APPETITE IK HOESES AND CATTLE.
Take four quarts finely pulverized charcoal; one-half pound
saltpeter, and one pound of sulphur. Mix and give two table-
spoonfuls in cut feed every morning until restored to health.
AKOTHEB.
One ounce tincture of nux vomica, one ounce tincture of
gentian. Dose, two drachms in two ounces of water. Give with
a syringe in the mouth three times a day with soft food.
PIKE TAB.
A Short Chapter on Tar; Its Use.— It is something that
every man that owns a horse should keep in the stable. Why?
Because it is good for cracks, cuts, bruises, etc., and is one of
the best of things to put in the summer on horses' hoofs, together
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with a little hot tallow. It causes them to grow, and to grow
tough and smooth. In the case of sores, it covers them and keeps
out the cold and dirt, and is in itself very healing. Get some.
Every blacksmith should keep it in the shop and put it on cracked
hoofs hot; also on sore and contracted heels, mixing with a little
tallow.
TO TAKE OFF WARTS ON PERSON'S.
Take one-fourth ounce sal ammoniac; one ounce of rain-
water ; dissolve and it is ready for use. Wet the wart often and
it will disappear in a few days, and without pain. Never cut
warts.
FOR SORE EYES.
Sugar of lead, one-half ounce; loaf-sugar, one ounce; fine
salt, one ounce; soft water, one pint. Mix and shake well before
using. Wash the eye well all around, and be sure you get some
in the eye. This has cured bad cases. This is good also for the
human family
ANOTHER EYE WASH.
Sugar of lead, sulphate of zinc, blue vitriol, alum and salt, of
each one drachm, two ounces epsom salts; put all in one quart
of soft water, and wash the eyes twice a day until cured. This
is very good for man or beast.
EYE SALVE.
Take one nutmeg and grate it very fine; mix with one large
tablespoonful of hog's lard, and grease in the hollow above the
eyes twice a day; thjs will clear them up in ten or twelve days.
LUNG FEVER.
Symptoms.—The horse is taken with a chill, then breaks out
in a cold, clammy sweat, holds down his head, never offers to lie
down; stands wide in front; groans when he is made to move;
his legs and ears are deadly cold, caused by letting him stand in
some cold place, or giving him too much cold water when warm.
To cure, first ascertain the stage of the pulse, which beats from
thirty-six to forty-two per minute in a sound horse; bleed till
his pulse becomes natural; then blister around the breast and
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chest with the liquid blister; then take tincture aconite, spirits
of niter and laudanum, of each one ounce; add to it one gallon
of spring water; let him drink one pint of it every two hours;
rub and foment his legs with alcohol, camphor and red pepper
till they get warm; give him water to drink that slippery-elm
bark has been boiled in, or hay tea with plenty of gum arabic in;
let that be his constant drink. Peed moist food; open his bowels
moderately with salts and linseed oil; never give aloes in case of
lung fever. Keep on with the above, and your horse will be
cured if taken in time.
DISEASE OF LIVEK, OK YELLOW WATER.
Symptoms.—The eyes run and turn yellow; the bars of the
mouth the same; the hair and mane get loose, and he often gets
lame in the right shoulder, and very costive.
Cure.—Give the following ball every morning, until it oper-
ates on the bowels: Take seven drachms of aloes; one drachm
of calomel; four drachms of ginger; and molasses enough to
make it into a ball; wrap it in paper and give it; give scalded
bran and oats—grass, if it can be gotten. When his bowels have
moved, stop the physic, and give him one ounce of spirits of cam-
phor in a pint of water every morning for twelve days; rowel in
the breast, and give a few doses of cathartic powder. Turn him
out.
WORMS.
Symptoms.—The horse eats, but will not thrive; his belly
gets big; his hair strays.
Cure.—Give one quart of strong tea, made of wormwood, at
night; the next day give seven drachms of calomel; make it into
a ball and give it; give no cold water for forty-eight hours, but
make it milk warm; give him two or three bran mashes and some
of the cathartic powder; if he shows any more symptoms, repeat
the dose in three weeks. This will never fail.
INFLAMMATION OF THE BOWELS.
Cause.—Large quantities of water when overheated; sudden
change from warm to cold atmosphere; plunging the horse, when
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hot, into cold water; high fed horses are more subject to this
disease.
Remedies.—Bleed one half gallon from the neck, and give the
following: Gruel, two pints; prepared chalk, one ounce; catechu,
four ounces; opium, three scruples. The above should be repeated
every six hours until the purging ceases. The horse must be kept
clothed and well rubbed. If there is much tenderness in the
bowels, by the pressure of the hands, it will be proper to apply
the liquid blisters over the bowels.
LAMPEBS.
All young horses are liable to this trouble. It is nothing but
inflammation of the gums.
Cure.—Bleed or scarify the gums; never burn, for it spoils
the teeth and adds to the cause of the disease. Give a bran mash,
rub the gums with salt, give the cleansing powders.
HOW TO MAKE THE MAGIC LINIMENT.
Oil of spike, two ounces; one ounce oil of origanum; two
ounces spirits of turpentine; three ounces sweet oil; two ounces
spirits of wine; one half ounce tincture of Spanish fly; one
ounce spirits of hartshorn. Put in a bottle and shake and apply
to all strains, sprains and bruises.
FOB CLEANSING THE BLOOD OF THE HOESE.
Bleed the horse through the nostrils, after which use the fol-
lowing purgative: Ball of barbadoes aloes, six drachms; of pul-
verized ginger, two drachms; of pulverized gentian root, one
drachm. Twenty-four hours after give one of the following
powders twice a day, in his mess: Black antimony, one ounce;
saltpetre, one and one-half ounces; flour of sulphur, two ounces.
Mix and divide into eight powders.
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DISEASES OF THE HORSE.
DISEASES OF THE HORSE.
1. Caries of the lower jaw.
17. A tread upon the coronet.
2. Fistula of the parotid duct.
18. Quittor.
3. Bony excrescence or exostosis of the
19. Sandcrack.
lower jaw.
20. Contracted or ring
foot of a foun-
4. Swelling by pressure of the bridle.
dered horse.
5. Poll-evil.
21. Capped hock.
6. Inflamed parotid gland.
22. Malanders.
7. Inflamed jugular vein.
23. Spavin.
8. Fungus tumor, produced by pressure of
24. Curb.
the collar.
25. Swelled sinews.
9. FiBtula in the withers.
26. Thick leg.
10. Saddle-gall.
27. Grease.
11. Tumor of the elbow.
28. A crack in front of the foot, called
12. Induration of the knee.
cow-crack.
13. Clap of the back sinews.
29. Quarter-crack.
14. Malanders. i
30. Ventral hernia.
15. Splint.
31. Hat-tail.
16. Ring-bone.
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TURKISH LINIMENT.
Oil of Pennyroyal,......        1 Ounce.
" Red Ced'ar,......    1 "
Camphor Gum,......i "
Barbadoes Tar,              - - - - - - i "
Tincture of Lobelia,.....                4 "
Mix, shake and use, and rub hard on all lameness. This is
the Boss.
COLIC.
Cure.—Tine, opium, §• oz., tine, assafoetida, 1 oz., spirits of
camphor, J dr., sulphuric ether, 1 oz., tine, cyan, 2 drs., sweet
spirits nitre, 1 oz., raw linseed oil, 1J pint. Give all at a dose,
as a drench.
Symptoms.—The horse lies down and gets up often, and looks
at his flanks ; his ears and legs are cold.
Cause.—Too much cold water and change of feed, and over
quantity of acid in the stomach.
Cure.—Take laudanum, one-half ounce ; sulphuric either, one
ounce; one pint water milk warm. Drench, and if not better in
forty or fifty minutes, bleed
and repeat the drench. Do
not allow the horse to be
moved while sick.
BOTS.
The bot has been a mys-
tery until of late years, with
the best men that ever wrote
upon the horse. I am asked
almost daily by horsemen or
farmers: " Is a colt folded
with bots ; or is it necessary
for a horse to have bots ?"
GROUP OP BOT8 ATTACHED TO THE           _           . , . .                              -
stomach.                       Certainly it is necessary tor a
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horse to have bots, and he could not live very long without them.
They are a part of the horse. They aid and assist the digestion of
the food in the stomach. A colt is foaled with a certain quantity
of red bots, which adhere to the coating of the stomach and which
are natural for a horse to have to preserve health. They never
let go to take hold of any strong poisonous or sweet medicine you
may pour down his throat. They live upon the gastric juices and
mucus of the stomach, and are a substitute for the gall-bladder
upon a horse's liver—a horse having no gall-bladder upon his
liver as other animals have. But a horse has a gall duct through
the center of his liver, which serves to convey the gall-bile to the
intestines to assist the digestion of the food. But there is another
bot that originates from a species of gad-fly that you see in the
fall of the year busily engaged depositing their nits upon the legs,
shoulders and under jaws of the horse. While rubbing their jaws
about the trough, or rubbing their legs with their teeth, they get
those nits in their mouth and among their food, and they are con-
veyed with the food to the stomach, and there hatched out, and
adhere to the inner coating of the stomach. This is a yellow bot
which forms an internal army that is always contriving a plan to
destroy the horse. Yellow bots will certainly kill a horse in three
ways: the horse will get an over-quantity of them, and they will
get up in the cardiac orifice, produce a stoppage, and choke the
horse to death; then again they will get down in the pyloric ori-
fice, produce a stoppage, and the horse is perhaps taken with
flatulent colic, and they kill him in that way; then again they
may perforate the stomach and kill him in that way. But they
have always got something to contend with before they will injure
the animal. A sound horse is never injured by a bot as long as
he eats his food regularly three times a day. His stomach is
sweet, and his whole system in good order; they have then plenty
of food to live upon without injuring the horse. But the horse
has the smallest stomach of any animal of his size living, conse-
quently the food is not long detained in the stomach, but is con-
verted into chyme, passes through the pyloric orifice, enters the
duodenum; there it receives the secretion of the excretory duct
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54
of the pancreas, the gall-bile from the liver, and is converted into
chyle, passes off into the small and large intestines, and is princi-
pally digested there. Therefore, if you hitch up your horse in
the morning and work him hard all day long, and omit feeding
him at noon (when he is regularly accustomed to having his food
three times a day), or in the afternoon, or toward evening, his
stomach becomes very empty, and those bots are liable to let go
at any moment and go to work upon the inner coating of the
stomach. Then again there may be some disease approaching or
gnawing upon the animal's system. He loses his appetite and
eats but little; you begin to wonder what is the matter with your
horse. Just as soon as he loses his appetite, his stomach becomes
sour, and then we call it a diseased stomach; and the bots are
again liable to let go at any moment and go to work on the coat-
ing of the stomach. Just as soon as the disease threatens the
life of the horse it also threatens the life of the bot, and they will
try to make their escape out of the stomach as best they can.
You may take Youatt with Prof. Spooner's notes, Dr. Brack-
en's, Bartlett's, Magee's or Stewart's works, and they are all wild
upon the bot. They will tell you that a bot never perforated, or
in other words, eat through a horse's stomach whilst he lived,
and they thus show that they know nothing about it, for while
practicing in the army and while traveling through the States, I
have seen horses that died with bots that had eaten entirely
through the stomach and its contents also, within ten minutes
after the death of the horse; and this goes to show that they will
certainly eat through the stomach whilst he lives.
, Now, we have tried almost all the strong and poisonous med-
icines imaginable to kill the bot, such as nitric acid, sulphuric
acid, muriatic acid, strong elixir vitriol, a strong decoction of
pink root, strychnine, arsenic, turpentine, alcohol and all those
medicines commonly fatal to vermin, and they will actually live
in any of those medicines from one to twenty-four hours, which
goes to show that you may pour all the strong medicine down
a horse that you please, and you will kill the horse instead of
the bots. But now we have a vegetable that every farmer grows
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upon, his farm every year, the juice of which will kill a bot in
ten seconds, where nitric acid will not kill them in twenty-four
hours; not because it is strong or poisonous, but it is a well-
known fact that when farmers or stock-owners get sick horses
they will send off for the best horse doctor (so called) that they
have in the country. He comes and examines the animal; he
is perhaps not thoroughly posted in anatomy and physiology, or
in the different symptoms of the different diseases that the horse
is subject to, and he is unable to tell exactly what is the matter
with the patient; but he knows enough to know that there is
something wrong, and about the first thing that he will tell you is
that he has got the bots. Certainly he has the bots, but the ques-
tion is, are the bots afflicting the animal at the time ? I will
teach any boy fourteen years old, who may enter my class, so that
he can always tell when the bots are at their destructive work,
and when a man knows exactly what is the matter with his
horse, he can always form some opinion what to give to cure.
But this man may tell you that your horse has the bots, and
he is going to kill them; and he will drench him with strong
dose after strong dose of medicine, and still the horse is perhaps
getting worse all the time. When he has given him all he knows,
some one else in the crowd knows of a cure, and they will give
him that, and still they have no relief. Perhaps some one else
will say: "That horse acts just as mine or my neighbor's horse
some time ago, and we gave him so and so and it cured him,"
and they will also give him that. After a while they will have
ten or a dozen strong doses of medicine poured down his throat,
and make, as it were, a drug-store out of his stomach; and
eventually the medicine kills the horse, instead of the disease.
Hundreds and thousands of horses are killed yearly by overdoses
of strong medicine administered by men that don't understand
the properties of medicine, or do/'t understand their business.
Whether it be a veterinary surgeon or a physician who admin-
isters a dose of medicine to his patient, he should be able to
tell what effect it will produce upon the patient, or he should
not administer the medicine.
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Now I can give you several prescriptions that will afford
temporary relief for the bots when you find your horse is plagued
with them. If you will bleed him in the mouth, or take one
quart of blood from the neck vein, and give as a drench, some-
times that will give the horse relief; then again you can give
him sweet milk and molasses; half an hour after you will give
him strong boiled sage tea or alum water; half an hour after
you will give him a physic; the milk and molasses will cause
the bots to let go; the sage tea or alum water will shrivel them
up; they will lie in a dead or dormant state, and the physic
will carry them off. Then, again, you can. turn up his upper
lip, rub it with spirits of turpentine, rub his breast and chest
with turpentine, and you may get relief through or by any of
those operations in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes; but it
is only temporary relief—those bots still remain in the stom-
ach to take hold at any time that there is a disease gnawing
upon his system or that he has an empty stomach. But the
beauty of the vegetable juice is that you have it in your house
the year round; when you find that the bots are working upon
your horse, go and get one quart of the juice and give it as a
drench, and as soon as it gets to the stomach the bots will let
go and suck themselves as full as ticks, and the gas that is in
the vegetable juice will actually burst them in the stomach.
That is the only medicine which we have found in the experi-
ments that we. have ever tried, that will kill the bots in a
horse's stomach without injury to the horse. Next day you will
see them pass off with the evacuation of the bowels, not the
bot, but the outside skin or shell of the bot; then your horse
will not be plagued with them again until the next season, when
those gad-flies will come back and deposit their nits in the same
places above mentioned; thev are again taken with the food to
the stomach, hatch out and remain there till the next summer;
then their time has come, they will let go their hold, pass off
with the evacuation of the bowels, get in the earth or manure
piles, go through some kind of transformation similar to the
silkworm; there they lie in a dead or dormant state from three
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to five weeks, then they burst their horny shell like a locust,
and come out in that same gad-fly again, and deposit their nits
in the same places as above stated. Thus those unnecessary
yellow bots that destroy so many valuable horses originate from
generation to generation. You can prevent those bots by rub-
bing the nits in the fall of the year with spirits of turpentine
two or three times; it kills them and they drop off. If you
will shove them off in the palm of your hand, spit upon them,
put the palms of your hands together for two minutes, you
will have them hatched. If you will take a live bot from
the stomach of a horse that has died or been killed, and put
him into a phial, put a cork in, giving him a little air by cut-
ting a bit out of the cork, then tie a string to the phial and
hang it in a warm room, in twelve or fifteen days it will
come out a perfect gad-fly and creep around in the phial; in
that way you can all see where they originate from.
THE TRUE SYMPTOMS OF THE BOT.
When the horse is taken with the bots, while in the team, you
will frequently see him paw first with one foot then with the other,
whisk his tail down between his legs; he will become uneasy,
shifting around from one position to another; if you unhitch
him he will lie down, roll over and over; sometimes he will lie
on his side and put the muscle of his nose around to his side, and
give signs of pain; frequently he will turn up his upper lip; if
you will examine his upper lip, you will find the true representa-
tion of the mouth of the bot; you will find little pimples upon
the inner surface of the lip, which, in a sound horse, or any other
disease, are perfectly white; but when the horse is plagued with
bots they will turn to a purple red and become enlarged. By
those symptoms you will know that it is the bots; then to cure,
you will get one quart of the vegetable juice above mentioned,
which is common potato juice, obtained by grating them fine or
mashing them as best you can, and press out the juice and drench
the horse. This will cure any case in twenty-five minutee, unless
they have eaten entirely through the stomach.
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POLL EVIL.
Among all the evils in this world, poll evil is the greatest evil
It is brought on by a bruise or a stroke of some kind, which pro-
duces fever or inflammation of the muscles of the poll of the
neck; in first stages you will find an enlargement sometimes on
one side and sometimes on both sides of the neck, with fever
or inflammation. In its first stages, all that is necessary is fo
bathe the enlargement twice a day with any of the liniments that
you find in this work, and in a few days you will scatter the
swelling and draw all the inflammation out, and your horse will
be cured: but if you neglect and let it run on too long, there
will eventually grow roots, core or pipes in the enlargement. It
has been calculated by the best of authors, until of late years, to
be incurable without stiffening the neck, because they would put
strong or poisonous medicine in the orifice or tumor upon the
neck, such as corrosive sublimate. Arsenic or acids eat down
and injure the ligaments of the joint, and the result is a stiff
neck; but we have tried experiments upon that disease until we
now have a cure that will never fail. We first secure the horse
against danger to ourselves by putting a twitch upon his upper
lip and strapping up by one fore-leg; then we take a six-inch
seton needle, thread it with a tape one-half inch wide, then
we run a seton through from the bottom of the enlargement
to the top, draw the tape through and tie it; then make the
following lotion: take muriate of ammonia, two ounces; spirits
of turpentine, six ounces; four ounces linseed oil; one ounce
oil of tar; one ounce corrosive sublimate; one ounce oil origa-
num ; tincture of iodine, one ounce; one ounce croton oil; shake
all well together, and anoint the tapes twice a day and draw them
through back and forth every time you apply the medicine, and
so keep on as long as it runs a thick yellow matter; but as soon
as it runs a thin bloody matter, and the enlargement is all gone
down, then you will cut the tape, draw it out, and keep the parts
washed clean with castile soap and warm water, and use the magic
liniment until it is all healed, and your horse will be cured sound
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without spot or blemish, and without a stiff neck. Keep the
parts washed clean every day or two while using the medicine,
which will hasten the cure and keep the hair from dropping out;
also use the cleansing powder as directed, to cleanse his blood and
system thoroughly.
FISTULA.
This disease is one and the same as poll evil, only a different
location gives it a different name. What will cure one will cure
the other. Follow strictly the directions of the poll evil receipt,
and you will never fail to cure the fistula, unless it has passed
down between the shoulder-blade and the ribs; then it is too
deeply seated to apply any medicine to the seat of the disease;
consequently it is then incurable, and your horse will be well
sold at five dollars.
FOB WIND GALLS.
One-half ounce oil of origanum, one-half ounce spirits of
turpentine, one ounce camphorated spirits. Mix and apply with
tow or cotton, and cover with sheet lead, as large as the puff, and
bind lightly on. Remove once a day, moisten the tow or cotton,
and put back. At the commencement this will remove wind
galls in a short time. If they have been on long it takes longer,
but in time it will take them off. Let the bandage remain on;
it will not hurt the horse to travel.
DISEASES OF THE URINARY ORGANS.
Inflammation of the Kidneys—Special Symptoms.—Roached
back and tenderness of the loins, staggering and straggling gait,
attempts to urinate without being able to do so.
Treatment—Stimulating Liniment.—Use black oil liniment
to the loins, together with hot rags or sheep skins. Give sweet
spirits nitre, one ounce; spirits camphor, one-half ounce; raw lin-
seed oil, four ounces; castor oil, four ounces. Put all together
and give as a drench. This will move the bowels as well as the
urine, and carry off inflammation. If it does not operate in one
hour, repeat the dose. Examine the sheath and the end of the
penis and see if he is foul, or a bean on the end of the penis. If
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anything is wrong, wash out the sheath and penis with warm
soap soads and grease with lard. Give bran-mash gruel and
vegetables.
ANOTHER.
For the Urine.—First cleanse the sheath and penis with warm
soap-suds, and rinse out with cold water. Grease thoroughly with
lard, then take nitrate of potash, one ounce; acetate of potash,
one ounce. Mix and dissolve in pint of warm water. Give one-
half with syringe or drench every two or three hours with the
rest.
BLOODY URINE.
It is generally the result of a rupture or some of the small
blood-vessels of the kidneys, induced by straining, etc. Avoid
everything that will provoke or increase urine.
Give acetate of lead, two drachms, in ball or aromatic sul-
phuric acid; one drachm in drinking water twice daily for a few
days, and apply cold water cloths to the loins, moistened freely
with pure tincture of arnica.
THE THRUSH.
This is a discharge of offensive matter from the clift of the
frog. It is inflammation of the lower surface of the sensible
frog, and during which pus is secreted, together with, or instead
of, horn. When the frog is in its sound state the cleft sinks but
a little way into it, but when it becomes contracted, or otherwise
diseased, it extends in length, and penetrates even to the sensible
horn within, and through this unnaturally deepened fissure the
thrushy discharge proceeds. The immediate cause of thrush is
moisture. This should never be forgotten, for it will lead a great
many toward the proper treatment of the disease if the feet are
habitually covered with any moist application. His standing on
his own dung is a fair example. Thrush will inevitably appear.
It is caused by anything that interferes with the healthy struc-
ture and action of the frog. We find it in the hind feet oftener,
and worse than the fore, because in our stable management the
hind feet are too much exposed to the pernicious effects of the
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dung, and the urine moistening, or, as it were, irritating them.
In the fore feet, thrushes are usually connected with contraction.
The pressure on the frog from wiring-in of the heels will pro-
duce pain and inflammation, and the inflammation, by the in-
creased heat and suspended functions of the part, will dispose to
contraction. Horses of all ages, and in almost all situations, are
subject to thrush. The unshod colt is frequently thus diseased.
Thrushes are not always accompanied by lameness. In a great
many cases the appearances of the foot is scarcely, or not at all,
altered, and the disease can only be detected by close examination,
or the peculiar smell of the discharge, the frog not appearing to
be rendered in the slightest degree tender by it, and, therefore,
the horse may not be considered by many as unsound. The progress
of a neglected thrush, although sometimes slow, is sure. The frog
begins to contract in size; it becomes rough, ragged, brittle and
tender; the discharge is more copious and more offensive, the
horn gradually disappears; a mass of hardened mucous usurps its
place; this easily peels off, and the sensible frog remains exposed;
the horse cannot bear it to be touched; fungus granulations
spring from it; they spread around, the sole becomes underrun,
and canker starts over the greater part of the foot. The disease
can scarcely be attacked too soon, or subdued too rapidly, and
especially when it steals on so insidiously, and has such fatal
consequences in its train. I have seen the whole hoof come off
in consequence of neglect, and then you might as well kill the
horse. There are many receipts to stop a running thrush.
Almost every application of an astringent, but not of too caustic
nature, will have the effect. Before using anything, wash the frog
and foot well with soap suds, and scrape all offensive matter out;
cut off all small tags of frog and wipe dry, and after this keep the
foot out of any kind of moisture, unless you should soak the foot
in a strong liquid made of equal parts of tobacco and gum
catechu. This is good, for it is a very strong astringent, and this
will kill the alkali of the soap. Then hold up the foot and drop
in the center of the frog, and around the frog, carbolic acid, then
coat it over with pine tar. The acid kills the disease, and the tar
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will heal it up, and keep out any moisture and dirt. This should
be repeated until you effect a cure, which will not be long. The
horse should be kept in a clean, dry box-stall, and not, as some
do, turn him out, for it needs close attention every day, and kept
out of the wet.
COUGH BALL.
Pulverized ipecac, three-quarters of an ounce; gum camphor,
two ounces; squils, one-half an ounce. Mix with honey to form
into mass; divide into eight balls; give one every morning.
FEVER BALL.
Emetic tartar, one-half an ounce; gum camphor, one-half an
ounce; nitre, two ounces. Mix with linseed meal and molasses;
make into eight balls; give one twice a day.
LIGHTNING PAIN KILLER
That will beat Perry Davis' or anything else that I have ever
seen tried.
Take sulphuric ether, oil of spike, tincture of opium, oil of
sassafras, aqua ammonia, British oil, of each one ounce; put all
in a bottle and shake well before using. Apply with the hand
and rub smartly. This is for all sharp pains, " stitches," sprains
or pains of any kind. Use as directed, and if the pain doesn't
" git," then my name is not Pitcher.
A SURE CURE FOR THE HEAVES.
Take oil of tar, in one vial, two ounces; sulphuric acid, in
another vial, two ounces; drop twelve drops of the oil of tar into
a mash, or into oats, at night; drop twelve drops of the sul-
phuric acid into half a bucket of water, and let him drink it;
put one teaspoonful of pulverized rosin into the feed at the same
time you do the tar. Use in this way once a day, and when you
have used the oil of tar and acid up, your horse is well. Wet the
hay or straw, and you can sell him for a sound horse. I would
not take one dollar less for a horse because he has the heaves.
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CAETHAETIC POWDER.
To clean out horses in the spring, making them look sleek
and healthy: Black sulphuret of antimony, two ounces; nitre,
two ounces; sulphur, two ounces. Mix well together, and give
a tablespoonful every morning.
LINIMENT FOE SPRAINS AND SWELLINGS.
Aqua ammonia, two ounces; spirits camphor, two ounces; oil
of origanum, one-half an ounce; laudanum, one-half an ounce.
Mix, and use with a great deal of friction.
i
ANOTHER.
For swellings caused by strains: One-quarter of a pound of
saltpetre, one ounce oil of wormwood, one quart strong vinegar.
Heat all, and bathe while hot, and bandage tight, then wet the
bandages and cover with dry ones, and repeat until the swelling
is gone.
DIARRHC3A, DYSENTERY, SCOWERS, ETC.
To cure.—Use powdered chalk, one ounce; gum catechu, one
ounce; opium, one-half ounce; ginger, one drachm. Bub to-
gether with an egg, and add half a pint of gruel, with sulphuric
ether, one ounce. Give as the occasion requires.
PURGATIVE CLYSTEES.
Aloes, eight to ten drachms; washing soda, one ounce; com-
mon salt, eight ounces. Dissolve in one gallon of warm water.
Give until it operates.
LAXATIVE CLYSTERS.
Tepid water, two quarts; epsom salts, six ounces; frequently
tepid water and a handful of salt will do. Give according to the
circumstances of the case.
PURGATIVES.
Castor oil, eight ounces; croton oil, ten drops. Give as a
drench. Repeat if it does not operate in one hour.
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LAXATIVE.
Castor oil, four ounces; raw linseed oil, four ounces. Give
in gruel.
GORGED STOMACHS.
Tincture capsicum, two drachms in eight ounces warm water
every fifteen or twenty minutes until relieved. As soon as re-
lieved, give linseed tea or gruel. Diet for some time.
ANOTHER FOR WORMS.
When the horse eats well and still loses flesh, give three Dran
mashes, then give three tablespoonfuls of powdered poplar bark
in feed once a day for three days, then two the same for three
days, then one the same for three days, or until you discover a
change and plenty of worms passing.
OINTMENT TO PROMOTE THE GROWTH OF THE HAIR.
Carbolic acid, one ounce; lard, eight ounces; or, iodine, one
ounce; lard, four ounces. Mix well and rub on when wanted.
ANOTHER TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW.
Sweet oil, four ounces; coal oil, two ounces. Rub this on
where the hair is off.
FOR SADDLE-GALLS.
For these and all other galls, first wash the place with strong,
hot salt and water, and wipe dry, then apply the black oil lini-
ment, and rub hard every day until cured.
FOR SWELLINGS AFTER BRUISES.
Use the soft-soap salve freely, and rub it in with the hand,
using a great deal of friction, and heat in.
QUITTOR.
This has been described as the result of neglected or bad
tread, or an over-reach, but it may be the consequence of any
wound in the foot, and in any part of the foot. In the natural
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process of ulceration, matter is thrown out from the wound; it
proceeds from the natural healing of the part. The matter which
is secreted in wounds of the foot is usually pent up there, and
increasing in quantity, and urging its way in every direction it
forces the little plates of the coffin-bone from the horny ones, of
the crust or the horny sole from the fleshy sole, or eats deeply
into the internal parts of the foot; these pipes, or sinews, run in
every direction, and constitute the essence of quittor. The mode
of cure consists in the introduction of caustic into the sinews un-
til the same is cleansed; or, if not very bad, and there are no pipes
formed, the burnt alum and sulphate of zinc, mixed equal parts,
and put in and around the wound, will do; then rinse with the
cleansing lotion and anoint with the white salve to heal it up.
FOR PBOUD FLESH.
Burnt alum, one ounce; sulphate of zinc, one-quarter ounce.
Pulverize and put in and around the sore.
ANOTHER.
Bed precipitate, one-half ounce; burnt alum, two drachms; or
calcined white vitriol and alum.
MANGE, OB OTHEB EBUPTIVE SKIN DISEASES.
To cure.—Take carbolic acid, eight ounces, and acetic acid,
eight ounces. Mixed and added to one gallon of water, will cure,
in one or two dressings at most, the worst cases.
INJURIES, ACCIDENTS TO THE CORNET OF THE HOOF FROM
TREADS, CALKS, BRUISES, INTERFERING, ETC.
To cure.—The best thing I have found, if done at once, is
pine tar and tallow, equal parts. Put on the wound — this will
keep out the air and cold, and will heal. Also, in cases of pick-
ing up nails and stubs: Draw out the nail or stub, cleanse the
foot with water — not cut as some do — then put in a few drops
of muriatic acid to kill the poison; then coat it over with tar and
tallow.
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SALVE FOR SCRATCHES, GREASE HEELS, QUITTORS, AND FOUL
SORES GENERALLY.
Cosmoline, four ounces; olive oil, one ounce; oxide of zinc,
one ounce; carbolic acid, one-half ounce; sugar of lead, two
drachms. Mix well together and rub well in the sores, after
first cleansing with the cleansing lotion. This you will find valu-
able.
OINTMENT FOR CLEANSING FOUL ULCERS.
Four ounces beef or mutton suet; six ounces Venice turpen-
tine ; two ounces red precipitate. Mix well and it is ready for
use. First cleanse the sore with warm soap-suds, rinse, and then
apply the ointment.
WHITE SALVE FOR SORES, SCRATCHES, ETC.
Spermaceti ointment, four ounces; Olive oil, one ounce; ox-
ide of zinc, one ounce; sugar of lead, two drachms. Use this on
all sores as you would any salve, and rub well in.
CLEANSING LOTION FOR FOUL SORES, GALLS, SCRATCHES.
Alum, four drachms; sulphate of zinc, two scruples; carbolic
acid, one ounce; distilled or rain water, one quart. Cleanse the
sore with this; use the white salve.
CATARRH OR COMMON COLD.
Symptoms.—General chilliness; staring coat; frequent sneez-
ing and coughing.
To cure.— First, good nursing; then, give one-half drachm
ginger, one-half drachm cayenne pepper or one drachm of com-
mon pepper in mash; or, spirits of nitre, one ounce; camphor,
two drachms; tartar emetic, two drachms in mash. Sore throat
generally follows after a bad cold. The throat and glands be-
come sore and enlarged; heavy and difficult breathing; also
difficult to swallow.
Treatment.—Good nursing; in slight cases bathe the throat
with coal oil, four ounces; sweet oil, four ounces. If this does
not do, add a little more coal oil. If necessary, poultice the
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throat, winding it with flannel. Steam the nostrils with hot
mashes or boiling water and vinegar on hay. For inward medi-
cine use the same as in catarrh and colds. If there is any rattle
in the throat, hot breath or high pulse, put bandages on the lega
and plenty of blankets on the body. Give clysters, mashes, hay
and liniment tea, and mustard applications to the sides and
breast, windpipe and throttle. If the extremities remain cold,
give two ounces of nitric ether in one-half pint of cold water or
gruel. If diarrhoea sets in, stop giving clysters and give one ounce
of nitric ether, one ounce of tincture of opium in water or gruel.
In a day or two stop giving mash diet, and give good sweet hay
and green vegetables. Feed in small quantities, but often. In
extreme debility, give two drachms powdered ginger, two drachms
of powdered golden seed, three or four times a day, in.gruel.
As soon as the pulse lowers and fever subsides, then give the
following tonic: Two drachms quassia, two drachms canella, one
drachm ginger; after a day or two, add to the above one drachm
sulphate of iron. Avoid cold draughts, and have a good warm
stable and bed.
RHEUMATIC PAIN'S, CRAMPS, STRING HALT.
Horses have rheumatism as well as man. To cure, you must
use the same remedy. To cure, keep the horse in a clean stable,
and bathe the legs or any part affected freely twice a day with
hot salt and water. Take a barrel, saw off one end and make a
soaking tub. Put in two buckets of hot water; then put in salt
until it will bear a potato. Put the feet in, take a sponge and
bathe clear to the back, and rub hard. Then bathe freely with
the black oil liniment as often as you bathe with salt and
water, and rub hard with the hand and cover with woolen blan-
kets, which you must heat hot. Let them stay on so as to sweat.
Then take two ounces of gum guaiac; put it in half a pint of
alcohol to cut it. Then take horse-radish roots and slice them
thin, until you have one quart of slices. Put them in a kettle,
pour on one gallon of hot water. Then let them stand all day
on the stove and simmer, covered tight. Then strain in a jug,
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and put in the gum guaiac and alcohol and cork tight, and it
is ready for use.
Shake the jag and give one-half pint of this liquid in a bran
mash every night for three nights; then every other night until
gone. This is for the blood. I use the same for all horses that
are foundered, stiff and sore in feet or legs.
When horses' feet are contracted they are more or less sore
clear to the top of the shoulders, for the cords running from the
shoulder center in the hoof under the coffin and navicular bones.
So as to spread the feet and cure the horse of his lameness, I
work all the way down to the foot. Put them in the same tub
as for rheumatism. You cannot bathe too much for lameness.
BHETJMATISM IN MAN.
Much has been written and said about this terrible complaint,
and all claim they have a sure cure. I have one that I have used
on myself and others for years with success. Here let me say,
according to my experience you cannot cure rheumatism with an
inward or outward application alone. You must work on the
blood; and do it in this way: Take one tablespoonful of grated
horse-radish, one-quarter ounce of gum guaiac; put this in
one quart of good whisky.
Dose.— One tablespoonful of this three times a day before
eating. Then rub freely, using a great deal of friction with the
hand, and heat in the black oil liniment. Then spread a plas-
ter on thin leather of the green mountain salve. Put this on
where the pain is located and let it stay on as long as it will, and
rub every day with the black oil liniment. Then take four
glass tumblers or dishes and put the legs of your bedstead in
them. This is to cut off the electricity from the £arth to your
body. In bad cases, put the glass under the legs of your chair if
you sit in one place long. This is plain, simple and cheap.
Take care of yourself, guard against sudden changes, and I
will guarantee a cure.
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SECTION OF THE ABDOMEN AND PELVIS WITH THE INTESTINES AND LITER REMOYED.
a. The Stomach (10 Cardiac orifice—11 Pylorus).
6. Spleen.
c.  Left kidney,
d.  Broad ligament of the uterus, with left cornu and ovary displayed.
e.  Rectum,
/. Anus.
g. h. i. j. If. I. Internal muscles of the thigh.
LONGITUDINAL S ECTION OF THE THORAX, ETC.
1.  Occiput.               5. Tongue.                                 9.9.9. (Esophagus.                                12. 12. Posterior surface of the diaphragm.
2.  Cerebellum.         6. 6. Cervical vertebrae.              10. Cardiac orifice of the stomach pass- 13. 13. Trachea.
3.  Cerebrum.           7. 7.7.7. Spinal cord,                           ing through the diaphragm.          14, Lungs.
11, Pylorus.
15. Heart.
4.. Nasal membrane. 8. Pharynx.
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SHOEING HORSES.
I HAVE already told you how a horse should be broken, and
now I will tell you how he should be shod; and I will begin
with a short treatise on
CLIPS, AS THEY ARE CALLED.
These are sharp points of iron that are forced or drawn from
the edge of the shoe on the front, at the toe and on the sides.
Never put them on, as they injure the foot, as I will show.
Professor York once said that he wished that he had the
power to have a law passed in every State to compel all black-
smiths to put on all shoes with clips, for this reason: that they
hold the shoe in place while the smith nails it on, and that they
help to hold it on afterward. Now, I will take issue with the
so-called Professor York, or any other professor, that the clips
are an injury; and if I had the power to pass laws, I would put
any smith that would put clips on shoes into the penitentiary
until he learned something. Why ? Because, as I said before,
they are an injury. When you put a clip on a shoe, you are
obliged to cut out the shell of the foot where the clip is to go;
then it does not fit, and so you heat the shoe and burn it in to
make it fit. What is the result ? You destroy the shell as far as
the clip goes, and more, the shell becomes hard, brittle and dead,
because you have burned it. Take your finger nail, cut and burn
it, and the effect is the same. What our nails are to us, the
horse's hoof is to him. And by this practice, in a short time,
you have a center crack or a quarter crack that will, in a little
while, run to the top or hair of the foot, and you have it to cure.
Again I say, never put on clips.
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THE IFOOT.
(To Chapter on Horse-shoeing.)
Fig. 12.
Section of the parts entering into the
composition of the Foot and the Fetlock and
the Pastern joints.
A,  Os snffraginis.
B.  Os coronac.
0.  Os pedis.
D.  Os navicnlare.
E.  E. The perforatus and perforatus ten-
dous.
G. Inferior sesamoida! ligament.
H. Cleft of frog.
1.  Side of frog cleft.
J. Sole.
K. Krust.
L. Coronary substance.
Fig. 12. The Hoof.
A.  Outer surface of crust.
B.  Inner surface of crust.
G. Upper surface of sole.
D.  Part corresponding with the cleft of the*
frog.
E.  Coronary band.
Fig. 14. Right front foot.
Fig. 15. Right Hind Foot.
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SHOEING HORSES.
Fit the shoe properly, use light nails and you will always haye
your shoes to stay as long as they should for the good of the*-
foot. If a smith does not know enough to put on a shoe without
clips, he had better go and learn how to do it.
The horse shoes here represented are those that I have used
for years, and they will show you that you cannot shoe all kinds
of feet alike.
The first cut represents the heavy draft, with corks. This
shoe is designed for horses that have heavy loads to draw on hard
roads. The shoe is heavy, with corks half an inch high from the
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SHOEING HORSES.
top of the shoe. This is as high £s they should ever be for win-
ter or summer. I am no friend to high corks. Just enough to
keep the horse from slipping is all that is needed. The shoe is
concaved until near the heels, then convexed. And here let me
say that all shoes should be somewhat convexed at the heels, so
that when they come in contact with the heels, as they become
loose, they will press the heels outward, while if they were con-
caved all the way back, they would press the heels inward. Use
light nails, No. 7.
This shoe is designed for light draft or driving; for the
buggy. It has corks one-fourth of an inch high, concaved and
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con vexed heels; make the toe a little the lower; fit nicely to the
foot.
This shoe is designed for the buggy and saddle and light
driving. It is a spring heel, with a piece of fiat steel welded on
the toe to keep it from wearing. It is one of the best shoes for
contracted feet in use, because it lets the frog come close to the
ground, and if fitted properly with the heels con vexed, will soon
spread the foot. Use No. 6 Globe nails, and put them well toward
the toe, in order to leave the quarters and heels free. Never cut
the frog or braces.
Shoe Fig. 4 is designed for horses that interfere or strike the
knees and ankles. You will see by its peculiar shape that it is
made heavy and thick on the inside, high at the heel, low at the
toe and on the outside. Make the shoe like Fig. 4,— a little
straighter, perhaps, on the inside; at the front quarter cut
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SHOEING HORSES.
off a little of the shell, for a horse never strikes with the heels.
The object of this is to throw the ankles outward, so as to allow
the other foot to pass. If this is used and the foot properly
dressed, they will never strike. Put the nails around the toe as
represented in the cut; use light nails, No. 7.
Now for the cause of horses interfering. I claim that there
are no naturally interfering horses or colts. I think the cause is in
letting the toe of the foot grow too long, and the inside get
broken off. In that case the foot tips inward, and this throws
the ankle inward, and the foot in passing strikes it. Then the
animal gets afraid to travel; drags his toes and tries to avoid
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SHOEING HOKSES.
hitting; he loses "confidence in his feet. Then there are other
causes. One says: "My horse never strikes when he is bare-
footed. Why can't he be shod so that he will not strike?"
Here conies in one of the troubles. You take him to the smith
to be shod; he cuts away the heels and lets the toe remain.
Why ? Because the heel cuts the easier and is nearer to him.
He does not look to see whether the foot is level or not. He
thinks that he must cut the foot somewhere, or the horse is not
shod. He does not look to see if one side of the foot is wider
than the other; and if it be so, cut off the side that is the wider
until the foot is true, so that the horse will stand up straight,
and not on his heels. Neither does he put on the shoe truly and
squarely; all of which he should do. It is a good thing to learn
when to cut, how much to cut, and when to stop. But says one:
" How am I to know when a foot is not true ? " I will tell you.
Take the frog as a guide — it is the center of the foot — and
keep it such, and you will find, I think, that what I say is true.
You will never have a horse to strike unless he is very poor, or is
driven too hard and gets leg weary, or you try to make him go
faster than he is capable of doing. I never have found a horse
that I could not stop with two or three shoeings. After that you
may come gradually back to a level shoe.
The next evil prevalent in a faulty method of shoeing is that
of paring the foot, so as to produce unnecessary length of hoof
at the toe. These long toes are of a mechanical disadvantage to
the horse; he cannot raise the limb and foot evenly upward and
forward; hence describes a sort of curve, and in so doing often
strikes the opposite fetlock, and thus, as the saying is, " inter-
feres."
Long toes also tend to produce strain or sprain of the flexor
tendons and other parts, and soon the knee bulges out in front
on a line with the lengthened toe; then the flexor tendons either
shorten, or the annular ligament, at the back part of the knee,
contracts, and then we have a genuine ease of " sprung knee,"
an unnecessary disease, a permanent eye-sore, and the animal is
ever afterward unsound, unless by the operation of tendinotomy,
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SHOEING HORSES.
and the feet being put into proper shape by a sensible shoeing
smith, the animal is able to perform ordinary horse labor, or, in
other words, is able to perform the " ordinary duties of an ordi-
nary horse." Dr. Cuming, a very experienced man in the art of
shoeing horses, thus discourses on the evils of lengthy toes:
"Another evil, resulting from the length at which the toes
are commonly left, is interfering. The horse, finding the long
projection in front of his foot as so much leverage, acting to
his disadvantage, gradually gets into the habit of shifting it,
by raising himself from one or the other of the quarters. This
is still more the case when, in addition to the long toe left on
the hoof, a small round knob of steel is set into the point of
the shoe, as if in contempt of all that nature teaches. With
these absurd contrivances placed between his weight and the
ground which supports it, it is next to impossible for a horse
to raise himself evenly upward and forward, and hence the
number that one way or another interfere. If, in raising his
weight from the ground, the pressure be upon the inside quar-
ter of the foot, then the thick part of the pastern is thrown
inward, in the way of being struck by the upper edge of the
hoof of the other side. If the cant be the other way, and the
outside raise the weight, the inside edge of the shoe is thrown
round and upward, and he runs the risk of cutting with it the
opposite leg. Even when the horse, from having a naturally
good gait, escapes both these evils, still he is not free from the
trouble caused by this shape of shoe.
" The fore foot of the horse, as nature makes it, has no such
projection in front and downward as that which the smiths
here give it, but rather the reverse. The sole surface at the
toe is commonly broken off and notched back at the middle,
so that the pressure, when the foot strikes the ground or the
animal is raising his weight, is distributed over the whole front
of the foot. In accordance with this, the coffin bone, which
fills the internal cavity of the hoof, has the same turned-up
and notched-back form. In England, Prance, and on the con-
tinent of Europe generally, wherever veterinary schools exist,
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SHOEING HORSES.
and scientific attention is giyen to shoeing, this natural form
of the foot is more or less followed in the shape of the shoe,
and the animal has preserved to him, along with the protec-
tion from wear which the shoe gives, the position of tread for
which nature has constructed the other mechanical arrange-
ments of his organs of motion. Why it is not so here is per-
haps partially due to the too frequent use of the knife in clean-
ing out the foot when it is shod, as it is impossible with the
knife to bring the hoof to the proper shape in all its parts;
but it is more due to want of study on the part of those who
shoe, of the structure of the foot, its uses and the relation ex-
isting between it and the other motive organs."
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SHOEING HORSES.
Shoe Pig. 5 is peculiar in shape, and at the present day one of
the most valuable in use, on account of the great number of
horses crippled in the feet. It is especially useful for quarter
cracks, corns in the heel, founder and contracted heels.
The shoe originated in an idea of my own; you cannot find
it described in any work that I have ever seen published. It is
made heavy, so as not to spring, but to hold the foot firm in
front, and not to rest on the false quarter. For toe cracks use
Fig. 6.
The best plan for shoeing horses with quarter-cracks and toe-
cracks is as follows: Before operating on the foot or applying
the shoe, the foot should be poulticed with linseed or slippery
elm; the poultices to remain on the parts for a period of at
least twelve hours. The object in applying a poultice is to
soften the hoof, and abate any irritation or lameness which may
exist. Then, by means of a crooked end of a knife, all extra-
neous matter is to be removed from the crack or fissure; a fine
awl, corresponding to the size of the clinch (which is a round
shoe nail), is then to be sent through the hoof directly across the
crack, taking care not to get too deep a hold, for fear of wound-
ing the sensitive tissues which lie in contact with the inner part
of the hoof. The nail or rivet is now to be sent through the awl
hole — across the crack — and by means of hammer and pincers
it must be well clinched; then the projecting heads are to be
rasped oif. The hoof is now to be cut through across the crack,
close up to the coronet, and thereby all communication between
the new growth and the fissure, or crack, is effectually cut off.
When the crack is quite extensive it may be necessary to
insert more than one rivet. So soon as the process of riveting is
completed the crack or fissure may be dressed with a small
quantity of strong spirits of hartshorn or pine tar; then it may
be kept cool by frequent spongings of cold water. A shoe like
Fig._ 5, affording equal pressure around from the crack, then off-
setting, to protect the quarter, but not to rest on it, should be
applied; three nails on the inside, and three on the outside and
around the toe, as remote from the heels as possible. This form
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78                                         SHOEING HOESES.
of shoe is, under the above circumstances, the best that can be
applied. Follow these directions, and in a little while you will
have a sound foot.
From what I have already written in reference to the art of
shoeing, the reader will probably infer that there is no great diffi-
culty in shoeing a strong, well-formed foot, and all that is neces-
sary in the preparation of such a foot is to level the crust and
sole and scrape off any loose portions of horny substance that
may be found on the sole, frog or bars.
When the bottom or sole of a horse's foot is flat or convex,
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SHOEING HOBSES.
instead of concave, it is at the same time much thinner and less
capable of bearing pressure. The shoe for such a foot should be
broader than the ordinary one, and must have a good flat seat at
the region of the junction of crust and sole, and a deep concave
in order that it may protect the sole, but not rest on it. This
form of foot being naturally weak, in consequence, perhaps, of
some hereditary predisposition, great care should be taken in
nailing the same, otherwise the nail is apt, if driven too far in an
upward direction, to enter the sensitive tissues, and thus the
horse is pricked, as we say.
Finally, the feet of horses are often variously deformed, in
consequence of predisposition lurking in breed, from bad man-
agement and accidental causes. Therefore, it is the business of
all persons engaged in the art of shoeing horses to make them-
selves acquainted with the structure and function of a horse's
foot, for, in the present progressive era, when improvements are
treading on the heels of improvements, a blacksmith cannot
afford to plead ignorance on such important subjects, which are
vital to his success as a practical shoeing smith.
I cannot conscientiously close this article without offering a
few remarks in favor of that much-abused class of men known
as " blacksmiths." It is my firm belief that they are often, very
often, blamed without any rational excuse for censure. For
example, a horse IB recently shod, becomes suddenly lame; the
lameness may be so obscure and unaccountable that the owner
and his advisers cannot, by ordinary observation, determine the
seat of lameness, and they come to the conclusion that the mys-
terious lameness has its origin in faulty shoeing, which may not
be the case, for many horses are predisposed to various diseases
of the feet and lameness of limbs, which, under the very bad
system of shoeing, cannot be prevented.
In regard to bad shoeing, it is my opinion that many smiths
do not obtain a fair compensation for their services in the pros-
ecution of their laborious and dangerous vocation, hence they
cannot afford to employ the best kind of help; and if, under the
circumstances, a horse's shoes are merely tacked on to the feet, at
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the rate of the prevalent bread and butter price, the owner of the
horse is more culpable than the smith.
If horse oivners have a desire to guard against the conse-
quences of faulty shoeing, and wish to have their horses shod
in a satisfactory manner, I advise them to pay the blacksmith
a living price, so that he can afford to employ " good help"—
men who know how to perform work in a workmanlike manner.
Taking a rational view of the art of shoeing, the greatest
wonder is how so many horses used for draft purposes on our
unyielding pavements enjoy freedom from foot lameness.
This shoe is a trotting plate for the front foot. It is made
very heavy, concaved upward nearly to the heels, then con vexed;
nails around the toe to make it firm and fast. The weight is
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SHOEIKG HORSES.
to give the horse momentum, as dumb-bells are used by per-
sons in jumping. These shoes are in general use, and it is not
necessary for me to dwell on them.
This shoe is designed for the hind foot of a trotting horse.
It is made convexed and light, to give the shoe some chance
to catch, without corks, and not to carry any dirt. This, too,
is well known among horsemen.
6
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SHOEING HORSES.
This shoe is a steel plate for a running horse. It is made
light, as no other kind would do. It is intended simply to
cover the rim of the foot during one race, then it is taken off
and a heavy shoe put on.
The above shoes are all of my own making. It is not ex-
however, that all shoers will make their own shoes, nor
is it necessary, for the National Steel Shoe, with solid toe calks,
made by the National Horse Shoe Company, of Chicago, are good
and cheaper than an iron shoe, and, if properly fitted, are good
enough for any one. I made these simply to show the principle
on which they are formed and the manner of fitting. As for
nails, I would say the Olobe nail is the best now made, as I have
tried them all; they are made by the Globe Horse Nail Com-
pany, of Boston. The above shoes and nails can be had of any
hardware dealer.
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8;i
SHOEING HOSSES.
Th:s is a foot-hook, too simple and well-known to need a
description. Use it.
Th:s instrument is for clinching the nails on the foot of a
horse without the use of a hammer. This I think a very useful
tool, »nd one that all shoeing smiths should adopt, especially
on sere and tender feet, for you do the work very easily and
then it saves the torture of hammering on the tender feet.
Make one and try it.
SHOEING THE MULE.
[ have already told you how to shoe the horse. To shoe a
mule use the same rules as in shoeing a horse, except that as
the foot of the mule is rather inclined to "throw out" at the
toe and stand backward, bearing more on the coffin joint and
ankle, the space being greater between the ankle and coffin
joint than in the horse's foot, you must keep the toe well cut
down and the heels high. Pit the shoe to the rim of the foot,
especially at the heels, and do not turn the heels of the shoe
outward, as some do. The shoe should be a little longer than
the horse's, in order to keep the heels high. Convex the heels
and in a little while the foot will spread and be broad and
strong. I can grow a mule's foot as wide as a horse's.
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SHOEING HORSES.
IN REGARD TO THE RULES FOR SHOEING HORSES.
The reader is probably well aware that great diversity of
opinion exists among men regarding the best method of applying
shoes to horses' feet; yet it is my firm belief that the best system
is that which is calculated to preserve the natural function, posi-
tion and action of the feet, and adopts that kind of shoe which
affords the most protection, yet allows the frog to come in con-
tact with the ground on which the animal stands, or over which
it travels.
No specific rule can obtain in the general art of shoeing, for
the simple reason that the feet differ very much under the con-
ditions of health and disease; hence a certain form of shoe well
adapted to meet the requirements of one condition miglt prove
positively injurious in another, as is often the case.
It is generally understood that the hoof is sufficiently elastic
to guard against the jar and concussion which occurs every
time the feet are planted on the ground. This elasticity, as
observed in a healthy and unfettered hoof, occurs in dovnward
and backward directions. It is scarcely perceptible, yet wisely
is it so ordained, for if there was much expansibility or lateral
motion to the hoof, it would prove ruinous to the foot, and
the chances of securing a shoe to the same without positive
injury would be very small.
It is evident that nature has provided for some slight action
of this kind, for the hoof is left open at the heels, between
which is interposed a soft, elastic substance known as the frog,
which allows of the motions alluded to. Had the intention
been otherwise the hoof might have presented itself in the form
of a hollow cylinder.
The parts within the hoof Known as the laminae, or haves,
articulate with each other, and the extent of their articulation
is that of the joint contraction and expansion of the hoof, mod-
ified, of course, under the influence of partial or complete press-
ure while traveling on the road.
Now, in order to favor this physiological action of the foot,
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SHOEING HOKSES.
the nails must not be inserted any nearer the heels than the
safety of the shoe requires; for, should the shoe be nailed all
around, as the saying is, the hoof at its solar border is fettered,
hence the action of articulation cannot occur and the horse
soon becomes lame. Three nails are often all that are needed
to secure the shoe to the foot, provided, however, that the nail-
heads be countersunk, and the points well clinched; if they are
not, the shoe becomes loose, in consequence of the nails being
driven upward by repeated blows on their heads, as the horses
travel on hard roads and unyielding pavements.
If possible, the frog should be allowed to come in contact
with the ground, for it acts as a pad and very much lessens
jar or concussion, which otherwise must necessarily occur; it
thus becomes a wall of defense, and the nature of the ground
over which the creature travels determines the form, character
and endurance of the frog.
Thus in the unshod colt we usually, in a healthy foot, find
the frog well formed, prominent and callous; this is the result
of the stimulating knocks it receives when traveling on hard
roads. On the other hand, should we examine some animals'
feet after they have been long submitted to the evils of domes-
tication, which includes faulty shoeing, we shall find that the
frog is often imperfect, both in function and structure. Our
Creator made a foot nearly round; the smith makes it like a
clevis or a flat iron, which shows that you can grow a foot of
any shape you may wish.
I would not have the reader infer from these remarks that
the blacksmith is always blamable for the loss of frog, etc.,
for in the winter calks seem to be necessary, and under such
circumstances it is almost impossible to bring the frog in con-
tact with the ground, hence it may deteriorate. Then, again,
there are various diseases of the foot which interfere with the
integrity of the frog as well as that of other parts which enter
into the composition of a horse's foot.
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ON THE APPLICATION OF HOT SHOES.
Hot shoes, as they are often applied, tend to carbonize the sole
and crust, increase the temperature of the foot or feet, and thus,
for the time being, induce functional derangement of the plantar
system; and if the horse be the subject of an inflammatory dia-
thesis, or at all predisposed to disease of the feet, of an acute char-
acter, the hot shoe may possibly, and it often does, operate as an
exciting cause to develop a latent affection.
In view of giving the ?«ora-professional reader some idea of the
anatomy of the parts, that he may exercise his own judgment in
the premises, I offer the following: By means of a microscope, we
detect on the inside of the hoof— superior and inferior parts — a
vast number of perforations, resembling the net-work of a sieve;
these are termed " plantar porosities." In contact With these parts
are the sensitive tissues, composed of slender fibres or filaments,
termed papillae (nipple), highly organized structures, consisting
of cellular, venous, arterial and nervous tissues. Supposing that
we use a microscope which magnifies two hundred and fifty times
or diameters, each papillary arrangement appears of the size of
four twenty-fifths of an inch, and they are to be found throughout
the entire circumference of the fleshy sole; the papillse are in
contiguity with the porosities, and their function is to secrete the
equivalents of organization, and thus maintain the integrity of the
feet.
The porosities alluded to are the inlets, outlets, commence-
ments and terminations of the agglutinated hollow tubes —
numbering many thousands—which collectively compose the
wall and base of the hoof. Into these hollow tubes are prolonga-
tions. The latter are heated, burned, or altered in structure
when brought in contact with a red-hot shoe; hence the function
of the same must necessarily be impaired.
In the crust, or wall of the foot, the tubular arrangement is
somewhat perpendicular. They insidiously increase in length in
a downward and forward direction, which gives length to the
hoof. In the sole the tubes are horizontal, which explains the
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SHOEING HORSES.                                         87
multiplication of the same, and the modus operandi of the physi-
ological or natural thickening of the sole.
The tubes of the crust and sole are usually considered as con-
tinuous ; consequently, if we cut or pare in the region of their
junction, we not only open their canals, but weaken their bond
of union; and in such cases we must expect dislocation of the
laminae, which is equivalent to descent of sole, known as " flat or
convex feet."
Hence, a red-hot shoe applied to the living tissues of a healthy
foot must necessarily contract the calibre of the porosities with
which it is brought in contact, and impair the function of the
same.
The reader is probably aware that moist heat does tend to
relax all tissues of the animal economy, and that the reverse is
the case when heat alone is applied. For example, a dry floor, or
a stall floor, strewed with sawdust, a dry, sandy beach, all abstract
moisture from moist bodies; yet a heated shoe is a more direct
absorber of moisture than either of the above, and must, neces-
sarily, communicate an undue amount of caloric to the parts.
By this method the foot is not only carbonized, but a febrile or
inflammatory condition is inaugurated.
In view of sustaining the latter proposition, I introduce the
following evidence from a report on the subject, made by a dis-
tinguished professor of the veterinary art, a resident of France.
By a series of experiments he-discovered that the hoof and the
sole were conductors of caloric; that the conductile power of the
crust was inferior to that of the sole (yet the latter often gets a
pretty essential burning whenever a horse is brought to be shod),
the very part that ought not to be burned. He found, also, that
it is not before the lapse of four or five minutes after combustion
that the thermometer indicates the highest degree of heat to the
foot. Also, that the thinner the crust is, the more heat becomes
transmitted to the internal parts.
Having thus assured himself of the hoof's conducting power,
his next object was to ascertain the amount of heat transmitted
to the sensitive tissues. The facts are as follows:
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From twelve experiments made on feet, in view of throwing
light on a subject hitherto considered as dark, the following are
the results:
First. That the ordinary shoe, heated to cherry redness, and
applied to a horny sole of an inch in thickness, and kept burn-
ing for one minute, the carbonized portion not being obliterated
in "paring out the foot, has transmitted from three to four
degrees of caloric to the villo-papillary and reticular tissue.
Second. That the greatest amount of caloric transmitted in
these experiments was felt, according to the thermometer, be-
tween the fourth and sixth minute from the application of the
heated shoe.
Third. That the sole, pared to the thickness of one-third of
an inch, giving under the pressure of the thumb, and the iron
kept burning on it for half a minute, exhibited the villo-papillaa
destroyed by the caloric.
Fourth. That when the sole had but one-eighth of an inch in
thickness, and readily bent under the thumb, when the heated
shoe was held upon it, burning for half a minute, both its villo-
papillae and the surface of the reticular tissues were destroyed by
the caloric.
From other twelve experiments, performed with the shoe
heated to black redness, the following facts were gleaned:
First. The shoe being applied to the sole upon which the
burnt mark still remained, it was found to transmit in the same
time more caloric to the living tissues than the iron at a cherry
red heat.
Second. The dull heated iron, the thickness of the sole being
the same, caused a more lively and deeper burn than the bright
heated one.
TJiird. These experiments confirm what was said by the elder
Lafosse, in 1858, viz., that it was not the bright heated iron
which oftenest occasioned the burning of the fleshy sole, but
rather the iron brought to a dull or obscure heat.
A notion has generally passed current among persons engaged
in the art of shoeing that if the burnt part of the sole be pared
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SHOEING HOESES.
away, by means of the ordinary tools, immediately after the ap-
plication of the hot shoe, the burn is obliterated, with its effects
at the same time. I found this, however, by placing my hand
upon the burnt spot, and by testing it with a thermometer, not
to be correct, and I further demonstrated its fallacy by direct
experiment.
The reader will now perceive that the danger apprehended as
the result of hot shoeing is not entirely groundless; neither do
the effects of the same exist only in a fertile imagination, as some
writers have asserted, but there is often more truth than poetry
in the matter. Unfortunately we have a vast amount of book
knowledge on shoeing, which often passes current as the result of
scientific investigation; yet, in my opinion, the horse and its
owner would have been better off had such works never been
written.
Some smiths contend that it is necessary to apply hot shoes
in order to "ascertain the bearings," or rather to discover the
uneven parts which necessarily occur as the result of faulty par-
ing. Now I contend that a good workman, with proper tools at
command, can make an even surface; hence a good workman has
no reasonable excuse for the unnecessary application of red hot
shoes. In fact the application of the same either shows that the
smith is wedded to the errors of our forefathers or else is deficient
in skill. Now if this be true, every honest smith who under-
stands his business should try to dispense with hot shoeing, and
consider the practice as one of the barbarisms of the ancients,
whose policy it was " never to forget what they had learned and
never learn anything new."
Some smiths, I am informed, merely apply the heated shoe
for the purpose of carbonizing, and thus softening the sole and
crust of the hoof, so that it can be easily pared. This, I think,
is a very lame excuse, for in most cases too much of the same is
removed, and thus the horse has " tender feet."
If the above is true, then it appears that the intelligent and
progressive smith of the present day has no rational excuse for
the application of heated shoes; and he who acts according to
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the dictates of reason and humanity is sure to secure a gopd
business, and the thanks of an intelligent community will be
his reward.
In offering the above remarks on the practice and principles
of shoeing, I have no desire to scold or find fault with the honest
smith,
" Whose brow is often wet with honest sweat,"
for it is a well-known fact that lameness in horses is often attrib-
uted to faulty shoeing, when such is not the case. For example,
a horse has recently been shod, and becomes suddenly lame; this
lameness may be so obscure that the owner cannot determine its
location, and he jumps at the conclusion that the lameness has
its origin in faulty shoeing, when the reverse is the case — the
animal being lame in the shoulder instead of the foot.
REMARKS OS THE FROG.
There are several reasons why a large portion of the frog
should not be removed, and I will briefly allude to some of them.
In the healthy frog there is a solid, wedge-like portion of horn
extending from the cleft to the point of the same; it lies di-
rectly under that small yet very important bone known as the
" navicular" (which signifies boat shape), and this bone, its re-
gion and contiguous tissues often become the seat of a very
painful disease, known as navicular thritis — inflammation of
the parts. This disease often arises, so say the authorities, in
consequence of removing the bulbous prolongation termed the
anterior point and bulb of the frog, the function of whicl1 is
to protect, to a certain extent, this bone and the sensitive parts
connected with it, and to shield them from the injuries which
might otherwise occur when the animal is made to travel fast
over hard and uneven roads.
A very distinguished physiologist has asserted that when
once this bulbous enlargement is cut off it can never be re-
produced, and thus this peculiar bulbous enlargement is seldom
found in a horse's foot after he has been pared and shod. But
I think differently. Let the frog alone;. shoe so as not to cramp
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SHOEING HORSES.
the heels, and use the black oil liniment or common pine tar
freely and you can restore it. This enlargement or thickening
of horny substance in the frog not only protects the navicular
region, but it also shields the coffin joint; yet there is no part
of the sole that receives such a thorough paring as this.
The bulb of the toe once removed, nature causes augmented
secretion of horny substance to make up for the loss of this bulb;
this secretion is often very abundant, but nature is no match
against the knife improperly used. The faster the horn grows,
the better chance is there for those who feel disposed to cut and
whittle it at every subsequent shoeing; then the secretory func-
tion soon becomes impaired, and we find that the part finally
becomes inelastic and brittle.
The frog, as a whole, is that cushion-like substance which,
by coming in contact with the ground, prevents jar and concus-
sion, not only to the sensitive tissues within the hoof, but to the
joints above; in fact, by the same means, some jar or concussion
which might otherwise occur to the whole body is lessened.
The frog is a part which is developed in the same ratio with
other parts of the hoof, provided the parts are in a healthy condi-
tion, and thus the integrity of the whole is preserved; the frog,
therefore, serving as a part of the basis of the animal structure,
cannot be removed with impunity.
The reader is probably aware that if the frog be cut away so
that nothing but the shoe comes in contact with the earth, the
body of the animal has little, if any, solar support; hence arise
the strain of the laminse, and, finally, descent of the sole.
Strain, or sprain, of the laminae, and descent of the sole, is
followed by structural alterations of tissues and parts within the
hoof, and then the animal is said to be "foundered"—ruined in
the feet.
When preparing the foot in view of applying the shoe, it may
be proper to remove just about as much of loose and rough por-
tions of frog as the animal might be supposed to wear off, provided
he were not shod; and yet, according to the testimony of eminent
surgeons, this is not always good policy, for these ragged and un-
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92                                         SHOEING HORSES.
couth looking parts usually serve as a protection to new forma-
tions beneath, and should not be removed until the latter are
perfected.
I am aware that the frog looks better when pared, but a
healthy condition of the parts does not consist altogether in good
looks; and the same reasoning applies to the body of the animal.
There are many fine looking horses in the country, yet many of
them, in consequence of hereditary predisposition and insidious
disease, may be next to death's door. We get a very handsome
looking hoof and frog by means of the knife and rasp, but I defy
any man to preserve their integrity and keep them healthy by
such instruments, when used to excess.
There was a time when the practice of cutting away the frog
was recommended by surgeons themselves, so that the smiths
who now, in good faith, practice it are not always blamable.
One author, whose work I have perused, endeavors to smooth the
matter over as follows: " The frog offers so little resistance to the
knife, and presents such an even surface, so clean and nice, and
cuts so easy, that it requires more philosophy than many smiths
possess to resist the temptation to slice it away, despite a knowl-
edge, in some instances, that it would be far wiser to let the frog
alone."
One of the most distinguished cavalry surgeons of the British
army says that he never allows a knife to touch the frog, for the
simple reason that a long experience has shown conclusively that
the frog possesses, under certain circumstances, less reproductive
powers than some other parts of the hoof; and the individual
alluded to has had horses in his possession for more than five
years, whose frogs never scraped acquaintance with a knife or
anything of that sort.
The reader may desire to know how the frog is to disencumber
itself of its ragged and apparently superfluous surfaces; if so, I
will answer that nature has provided a means, which is a process
of casting off, or sloughing, and when this does occur, a new
growth is seen beneath it, a smaller frog is visible, yet it is an entire
one, and soon acquires magnitude in ratio with its connections.
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SHOEIKG HOKSES.                                        93
PBESSUKE ON THE FKOG.
Goodwin says: " It is an incontrovertible fact that unless the
frog receives a certain degree of pressure, it will degenerate and
become incapable of affording sufficient protection to the sen-
sitive frog which it covers; that the heels -will gradually con-
tract ; that the bars alone are not sufficient to prevent the same,
though they certainly oppose it with considerable force. But it
does not follow from this that it is necessary for the pressure to
be constant, nor is it believed that a shoe which allows the frog
to bear on the ground when the horse stands upon a plane, hard
surface, can always be applied even to a sound foot without in-
convenience. There is no doubt that a horse in a state of nature
has his frog almost always in contact with the ground, and then
of course he feels no inconvenience from it; but when burthens
are placed upon his back and he is driven about on hard roads,
he is certainly in very different circumstances, and if the frog in
such cases was constantly exposed to this severe pressure, it
would no doubt occasion lameness." Still, a certain amount of
pressure is absolutely necessary, for unless that be the case, de-
scent'of the sole and disease of the laminaa are apt to occur.
In view of giving the reader some idea of the theory and art
of shoeing horses in Scotland, I here introduce a selection from
the " Scottish Farmer."
" In preparing the horse's foot to be shod, the requirement in
the skill of the operator above all is, that he shall know the right
form and required bearing surface of that particular foot; he
has, in fact, as much to give the bearing surface to the foot as he
will afterward have to adapt the shoe to it. The foot surface and
that of the iron shoe to be applied are entirely dependent on the
skill and understanding of the shoer, and on these mainly de-
pends the success of the whole process. We will go a little further
in explanation. When we have adjusted the foot, whether it be
a sound or an unsound one, we proceed to adopt our shoe accord-
ingly, and if the understanding and manual skill are efficient,
the shoe will be brought to the foot in every way moulded to its
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requirements. In approximating the two surfaces, which is always
done once or twice, and, if necessary, more frequently, till the
adaptation is complete, we just as much review the foot as we do
the shoe, and may in the critical process with as much propriety
file away a little hoof as we may in the other case bend the iron,
under the hammer. In either case it is necessarily an adaptation
of surfaces, the foot in the first part of the preparation being
approximately finished, as the shoe when first tried is the same.
In answer to the question, what parts of the hoof are to be
removed ? we would say none, only so far as is necessary to give
the circumference and due proportion to the whole hoof. This
we may say cannot always be effected, unfortunately, as horses*
feet come to our hands we find such deficiency, through destruc-
tion of parts, and not unfrequently a general debility throughout
the whole hoof, that we can only make the best use of what
remains.
" Among the most common deteriorations in form, under the
present custom of shoeing, is a low, weak state of the hoof across
the quarters — that is taking a transverse line across the center
of the foot, immediately under the line of bearing. This low and
weak state proceeds from two causes, first, from the method of
preparing the feet; secondly, from the way they are shod, so that
the iron gravitates, nay, is often converted into a lever, the ful-
crum of which is in that center alike in both branches of the
shoe, and the hoof is worn, or, as is said, ridden down by the
pressure. Another common defect is the foot being higher on
one side than the other, and thus every part of the foot and limb
is thrown out of its natural line of bearing. Then we have
many dieturbances in the line of obliquity which the foot, in its
natural state, should bear to the limb. We find variations of
half an inch or an inch in the depth of the heels, under different
modes of preparing the foot, and a similar extreme at the point
constituting what is called length or shortening of the toe. All
these, which nature has ordained to be exact, are found to vary
by the inch, and the defects are variously complicated in the
same foot. To know how to prepare the foot implies an under-
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SHOEING HORSES.                                    95
standing of all these deviations. We may be asked, are there no
parts of the foot to be removed and others to be conserved besides
that which comes under the general meaning of proportion in
depth, breadth and length of the whole ? We say, no. In ad-
justing the foot we have to deal with the wall, and if that part
is well done and the foot well shod, the other parts, viz., the sole
and the frog, are necessarily taken care of, though the horn is
secreted constantly on those parts like that of a wall, to meet the
wear, the process of detaching is different; the sole and frog
detach their outer layers as they become superabundant, which,
however, as is commonly the case, the foot is badly prepared and
badly shod, the sole may become, as it does, imprisoned by an
overlapping of the wall and want of the general natural func-
tions of the foot. Then the process of exfoliation may be inter-
rupted, the proper remedy in which case is not to hack and sink
holes into the sole, but restore the balance of the whole foot by
removal of disturbing causes. The instruments at present in.
use with us for preparing the horse's foot are of the most ill-
adapted kind; and here we are prepared to be met by the observa-
tion that a good workman will effect his object with any tool. It
would, perhaps, however be more correct to say that an able artist
will generally devise a proper instrument to effect his object.
Two instruments are used for the reduction of the hoof, the
knife and rasp. These are both of modern introduction for that
purpose, and, as applies to the old world, they are confined to
our country. These instruments are coeval with a doctrine of
shoeing which has prevailed for between sixty and seventy years.
Previous to that time, an instrument similar to that in use up to
the present time all over the continent, called a butteris, was
adopted in Great Britain. To the late Professor Coleman is
mainly due the abolition of the butteris and substitution of the
knife. The reason assigned was that the old one was an ungainly,
clumsy tool, and, certainly, to perform what the new doctrine in
shoeing was requiring, it was not the instrument. It was laid
down as a rule that the sole was to be cut away; that it was to
be pared thin every time the horse was shod; that there were
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90
SHOEING HORSES.
certain parts called bars that were to be preserved, which con-
sisted in neither more nor less than a carving away of the sole
almost to the blood, and leaving a small ridge at each angle,
between which the hook of the knife was freely used to scoop out
what was called the seat of corn. The little knife bent so as to
reach to every crevice and angle of the foot, was just the de-
structive instrument to do such work, but was in no way adapted
to adjust a foot for the shoe; indeed, no one ever used it, or does
so now, for that purpose. The rasp is used for lowering the
wall. There is a point where the work of these two instru-
ments meet; the little crooked knife clears away and destroys
the sole, leaving a thin edge of wall, which the rasp sweeps away.
A rasp or file was long in use with us, as it is now on the con-
tinent ; but little use is made of it there, since the butteris, a
broad cutting instrument, gives a much better bearing surface
to the foot, and the file is used to a small extent only in finishing
the work. We may give some notion of the adaptation of the
old instrument, the butteris, and the thorough unfitness of the
knife for the same office, by a few comparisons.
"Every one knows that if he wants to form an exact sur-
face or line he does not choose a very small instrument, but
one of breadth and length. A joiner does not use his chisel,
but his long plane, to strike a plain, smooth surface. A man
who carves handsomely and economically a joint of meat does
not take his pocket-knife, but one with a broad, well-adapted
blade. A man who cuts leather uses a broad instrument, and
he can do it with exactness. We may go farther, and adduce
the tailors' large shears as he divides his broadcloth. The fact
is, the little instrument makes notches and holes, destroys and
weakens, and this has been preeminently the case in the ap-
plication of the knife to the destruction of horses' feet.
"We will, in conclusion, say a few words as to how this
change was effected. To abolish an instrument from the land,
which was well adapted for the requirement, and to introduce
into general application one which we hold to be ill adapted,
seems difficult to account for. The fact is, at the time the
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SHOEING HOESES.                                         97
London Veterinary College was first established (nearly seventy
years ago), and subsequently, its principal was able to carry
any point, almost at command. The power was displayed in
the army, through which changes in the plan of shoeing were
rapidly carried, and there the butteris was at once abolished
and the knife substituted. The same thing followed through
all the principal forges, and since the scooping out of the foot
was pronounced to be a requirement, and insisted on, compli-
ance on the part of the workmen to use the knife was the more
readily exacted. Subsequently the rasp manufacturers adapted
that instrument, so that instead of the little fine-cut rasp and
file of the former times a sharper, rougher and bigger instrument
was introduced, with which a strong man could reduce the hoof,
and even destroy it, with a very few sweeping strokes. How
we are to get back to a more rational system than now pre-
vails i« the work to which we have put our shoulders."
OVER-REACHING.
This unpleasant noise — known also by the term clicking —
arises from the toe of the hind-foot knocking against the shoe
of the fore-foot. In the trot, one fore-leg and the opposite hind-
leg are first lifted from the ground and moved forward, the other
fore-leg and the opposite hind-leg remaining fixed, but to keep
the center of gravity within the base ; and as the stride, or space
passed over by these legs is often greater than the distance be-
tween the fore and hind-feet, it is necessary that the fore-feet
should be alternately moved out of the way for the hind ones
to descend ; then (as occasionally happens with horses not per-
fectly broken and have not been taught their paces, and especially
if they have high hind-quarters and low fore ones), if the fore-
feet are not raised in time the hind-feet will strike them; the fore-
foot will generally be caught when it has just begun to be raised,
and the toe of the hind-foot will meet the middle of the bottom
of the fore-foot. It is an unpleasant noise, and not altogether
free from danger, for it may so happen that a horse,— the action
of whose feet generally so much interferes with each other,—
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98
SHOEING HORSES.
may advance the hind-foot a little more rapidly, or raise the fore
one a little more slowly, so that the blow may fall on the heel of
the shoe, and loosen or displace it; or the two shoes may be locked
together and the animal may be thrown; or the contusion may
be received even higher and on the tendons of the leg, and con-
siderable swelling and lameness will follow. A blow received
on the heel of the fore-foot, in thi3 manner, has not unfrequently
— and especially if neglected — been followed by quittor. The
heels most frequently suffer in over-reaching, although the
pastern is sometimes injured; it usually or almost always occurs
in fast paces on deep ground; the injury is inflicted by the
edge of the inner part of the shoe. The remedies are many—
what will stop one horse will not stop another.
Some horses have too much action in front, and some too
much behind. Some you can stop by putting long heavy shoes
in front, so that the hind shoe will strike under the heels of
the front shoe as they are raised, instead of hitting the heels
of a short shoe, and put light shoes behind, and set them back
at the toe and let the wall project over; and if you put on a toe-
caulk, put that well hack to the inside of the shoe so that it will
not strike the front foot. This plan is good for all hind feet,
whether you shoe them light or heavy; in others you 'will find it
is the best to put on a two-pound shoe behind and a half-pound
shoe in front. I have stopped them in this way. The object is
to weight the feet to make them go slow, and light weight to
make them go fast; so you will see, if the front feet are shod
light they will get out of the way, while the hind feet are shod
heavy to keep them back. All this you must ascertain by experi-
ments, for you rarely stop them the first time trying; and then
hard or light driving has a great deal to do with it. Never drive
too hard.
CORNS OK HOESES' FEET.
In the angle between the bars and the quarters, the horn of the
sole has sometimes a red appearance, and is more spongy and softer
than any other part. The horse flinches when this partition of
the horn is pressed upon, and occasional or permanent lameness
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SHOEING HORSES.                                         99
is produced. This disease of the foot is termed corn, bearing this
resemblance to the corns of the human being, that it is produced
by pressure, and is a cause of lameness. When corns are neg-
lected, so much inflammation is produced in that part of the sen-
sible sole that suppuration follows, and to that quittor succeeds,
and the matter either undermines the horny sole or is discharged
at the cornet. The pressure hereby produced manifests itself in
various ways. When the foot becomes contracted, the part of the
sole enclosed between the external crust wearing in, and the bars
that are opposing that contraction, is placed in a kind of vice,
and becomes inflamed, hence it is rare to see a contracted foot
"without corns. When the shoe is left on too long the heels
of the shoe will become embedded in the heels of the foot. The
external crust grows down on the outside of it, and the bearing
is thrown on this angular portion of the sole. No portion of the
sole can bear continued pressure, and inflammation and corns
are the result. From the long time shoes are left on (for econ-
omy) they become loose at the heels, and gravel insinuates itself
between the shoe and the crust, and accumulates in the angle,
and sometimes seriously wounds it.
The bars are too frequently cut away, and then the heels are
cut away, then the heels of the shoe concaved, so that they will
fit the foot so cut and mutilated by this concaving the shoe clear
to the heels. An unnatural disposition to contraction is given,
and the sole must suffer in two ways — in being pressed upon by
the shoe, and squeezed between the outer crust and the external
portion of the bar. The shoe is often made too wide at the heels,
so when the shoe becomes bedded to the foot, the heels rest on the
outside of the wall, and, being concaved, will press the heels in
and cause contraction, and bruises, and corns. In paring the
foot, leave the bars full, pare out the horn in the angle between
the bars and outward crust or wall, then fit the shoe the shape
of the foot; follow the walls nicely and convex the heels so that
the shoe when bedded will press the heels out, then he will do
right, and you cannot make narrow heels or corns. When I shoe
a horse I always see that the shoe rests easy on the heels. The
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100                                       SHOEING HORSES.
unshod colt rarely has corns. The heels have their natural power
of expansion, they have a large frog, broad heels, strong braces.
So we must make up our minds that contraction and corns
are to be laid to faulty shoeing. I have seen horses eighteen years
old that never had a shoe on; they had large feet, strong bars,
wide heels, soft and large frogs. Why ? Because they were in
the stage of nature. But I claim you can shoe a horse as long
as he lives and keep his feet free from contraction and corns; but
if the horse-shoer is the best in the world, and he is to be dictated
to by the ignorant horse owner, he is not to blame if the feet are
spoiled; for, in order to keep his trade, he has to cater to the no-
tions of the customer, and then gets the blame if the horse is
lame. Some want to have old shoes set as long as they will hold
together and there is a hole in them; they think this is econ-
omy. Not so, for they will spring and be imbedded in the heels,
and by this unnatural pressure on the sole, blood is thrown out
and enters into the pores of the soft and diseased horn, which is
then secreted.
Corns are most frequent and serious in horses with thin and
flat soles and low, weak heels. To cure old corns is sometimes
difficult, but in the end is sure and certain. Eecent corns will
yield to good shoeing. My plan is, and has been for many years,
to pare out the corn until I get to the bottom, if I draw blood.
I use a jack knife blade, ground at the point on both edges like a
fleam, so that I can get down deep and not make a large hole;
leave the wall and braces, then hold up the foot and pour the
hole full of muriatic acid, then take a hot poker and burn it in,
and sear the corn ; then take the shoe (Fig. 5) and fit it to the
foot; have the offset commence a little front of the corn, and if
you wish the shoe caulked, put on a side caulk in front of the
offset; then you will protect the sore heel and corn; put the nails
well at the toe, and nail firm, before you put on the shoe; fill the
hole with pure pine tar and cotton; this keeps the dirt out and
heals up the horn. This rarely fails in the first instance. The
shoe should be set often, until the hole is entirely healed up.
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101
SHOEING HORSES.
This (see fig. 5) I consider far ahead of the bar shoe in all cases of
corns or contraction.
When you find a soft corn cut it out until it bleeds freely j
this will draw out the inflammation. Treat it the same as any
other corn.
There is nothing perhaps that has assisted the veterinary art
and relieved the horse from suffering more than horse-shoeing,
properly done, where corns now exist. They are a disgrace to
to the smith, groom and owner.
PICKING UP NAILS, STUBS, ETC.
First, remove the nail or stub. If it bleeds freely, all right j
the more it bleeds, the better; if not, take a sharp-pointed knife,
clean out the hole, and bleed well — this runs off the poison. Do
not cut away the sole or frog more than you can help; then put
in a few drops of muriatic acid and heat it in with a hot iron;
then cover it over with pine tar, hot, and cover the whole sole
with horse manure. If the horse is lame the next day, open the
hole and bleed again, and repeat the treatment; this will prevent
its festering. The acid will kill the poison, the tar will heal
it up. If the horse should continue lame, open the sore until it
bleeds, then poltace with linseed meal and use Furlong's boots;
do this and you will cure the horse and prevent the lock jaw.
THE FOOT SPREADER.
This cut represents a foot spread-
er. It is to be used with a great
of caution in spreading horses feet
that are contracted, for if you use it
on a dry foot you will ruin it for
life; you must first soften the foot
and prepare it for spreading, and to
do it, is in this way. Take your
horse to the shop, take off the old
shoes, pare down the toe, leave the
the foot spreadbe. heels high, put on the shoe, figure 5,
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102
THE FOOT SPREADER.
in the book, then put on .Pitcher's soaking boots, with a large
sponge to fill the cavity, and fill it with lye made in this way:
take two quarts of wood ashes, put this in a wooden bucket, fill
the bucket with boiling water, and you have it, put this in the
sponge twice a day. If he has corns, kill them. The book will
tell you what a corn is, and how to cure it. When the foot gets
soft, then use the spreader every other day, spreading only J inch
at a time. Spread the shoe and it takes the foot with it. This
spreader is made of cast steel, very strong, for it requires so to
be. When you get the foot spread out to the proper size, then
use the hoof liquid, in the book, this will make the foot tough,
and will set it to the place where it should be, then follow the
directions for shoeing horses, in the book, in the first place, and
you will have sound feet, then take the frog for your guide.
When it becomes hard, put on the Pitcher's boots, sponges, and
clear water, this gets down to nature, what it gets in the pasture.
Any one can make the spreader, that can hammer cast steel, and
there is no shoeing shop complete without it.
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MECHANICAL RECEIPTS.
TO TEMPER TAPS AND DIES.
This is plain and simple, and never fails. I have used it for
thirty years. Take a tin can that will hold half a gallon, and fill
it with lard oil. Heat the taps and dies slow and even — at a
dark cherry red. Then take them with a cold pair of tonges
and put in the oil. Stir them, and cool as soon as possible, and
they are done. Draw no temper, and they will stand and cut a
steel bolt, if the steel is anealed. The best way to aneal is to
heat the steel at a low heat, and put into forge ashes until cool.
TO TEMPER MILL PICKS.
To six quarts soft water add one ounce of corrosive subli-
mate, two ounces sal ammoniac, these two pulverized; one pound
of common salt, dissolve in a little warm water; then put all
together, and it is fit for use. Heat the picks slowly and even,
as far as you want them tempered, at a low cherry red heat, and
plunge them in and cool them off. Draw no temper, and they
will stand the hardest millstone. Keep the liquid covered in a
stone jar, for it is poison.
TO WELD CAST OR ANT KIND OF STEEL.
Take borax, one pound; sal ammoniac, one-half an ounce;
prussiate of potash, one-half an ounce; one pint of rain water.
Put all in a kettle over a slow fire, and stir until all the water
boils away, then keep in on the fire and stir until it becomes fine
like flour, and is dry. Then take it off and cool. Then put in
one ounce of black oxide of manganese and mix and grind all
through a coffee-mill. Use as borax, only a less quantity. It
welds at a low heat, and will do what borax will not do. This
is the boss for welding, and it is cheap; ten cents buys all but
the borax, and it will go as far as three pounds of borax, and it
never fails.
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THE HORSE COLLAR.
THIS is a subject upon which much has been said and written,
and yet the poor horse is still made to suffer. Why ? Because
the collars are not rightly made. One man makes them of the
right size to fit a horse; another makes them open at the top,
puts on a strap and buckle, so as to use one collar for all horses.
This is wrong, and has caused more trouble with horses, in the
way of sore shoulders and feet, poll evil and fistula, than many
imagine.
You take great pains in selecting and fitting the bridle and
checks, breeching, back straps, " lines," etc.; but when you come
to " hitch up," you have no collar that fits your horse. You say,
" Never mind, bring me ' old Bill's,' that will do; I can ' take it
up' or ' let it out,'" as the case may require. And you drive off.
When you return you take off the harness, and let your horse
stand in the dirt and sweat, just as he came off the road, and the
next day your horse is sore, and you think that perhaps you have
foundered him. You bleed and blister him; still the horse is
lame. Why? Because you have not found the cause of the
lameness. Now examine his shoulders; you will find, by press-
ing on his neck and shoulders, that they, with the cords running
to the feet, are sore. He cannot speak to tell you, so you must
examine and find the place affected for yourself. This you can
easily do, as he will flinch, as you would, should any one touch a
sore upon your body.
When you find the lame spot attend to it at once; don't wait
until the " hired man," or some one else does it. Do it yourself,
and do not go into the house and smoke your pipe while your
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THE HOBSE COLLAB.                               105
horse is in pain. Wash the sore spot with salt and water and
vinegar, as I have before directed; then use the black oil lini-
ment, and in a few days he will be well.
Then use some common sense; go and get a collar made that
will fit his breast and shoulders. In making collars some cut
them " straight stuff," and hammer them into shape. The best
way is to learn your trade; cut the collars to fit the shoulder, by
giving them spring and belly, so that when you stuff them they
are of the right shape to fit the horse. Then fasten them solidly
at the top, and mark this one for Bob or Bill, and never use it
on any other horse unless it fits him.
I will here say that I wish that I had the power to put into
the penitentiary for one year every man that would have a buckle
and strap put on a collar. Many blame the collar maker, with-
out just cause, for these things. You go to a harness maker and
ask if he has any collars. He says, "Yes; what size do you
want ? " You say, "About medium size. Put a good long strap
and a buckle on it; then I can take it up or let it out as I wish."
The harness maker tells you to bring the horse and he will fit it;
but you say, " I will fit it." You take and use it, and what is
the result ? Your horse is lame, and no doubt you will go about
cursing the harness maker; blaming him as a botch, when you
yourself are the one to be blamed.
You might as well go to a shoe maker and ask for a pair of
boots, and when he asks you what size, tell him, " I don't know;
John has a big foot; give me a large pair." And to carry the
comparison still further, you take the boots home; they are two
or three sizes too large; but you say, " Never mind, wear them
out." What is the result ? He is " tired out," his feet are chafed;
he, in a short time, has corns on his toes; the cords of the legs
are sore, and he is " laid up," as the saying is, by some mysterious
visitation of Providence. You send for a doctor, pay him five or
ten dollars, and you are satisfied. The same is true of a horse.
You might as well make all boots on one last for the same
foot, and then cut them off the right length, as to make all
collars on one block, from fifteen to twenty-four. Try to learn
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106                               THE HOBSE COLLAR.
something in this particular, and in that way you may save
money. That I consider the best of economy.
I cannot close this article without giving you some useful
suggestions. Now I am opposed to the use of the hame collar,
when you can use a breast collar. Why? Because the breast
collar is easy on the breast, leaves the shoulders free, and in warm
weather is cool. The main cords and veins running from the
poll forward, backward and down the breast and legs into the
feet, are free; it does not stop the circulation of the blood, or
wear on contracted shoulders.' Take good care of the front part
of the horse, for there it is that they first receive the concussion
in traveling, and the hind parts will take care of themselves.
Farmers, if you would use the old-fashioned " Dutch " collar in
plowing, and as little harness as possible, you would have fewer
sore horses. I have seen men plowing with a full set of harness
on and the horses checked up; this is wrong.
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APPENDIX.
General History of the Horse,
The Education of the Horse,
The Age of the Horse,
Rules and Regulations of " The National
Trotting Association," and Betting
Rules.
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An English Draught Horse — <£m (Engltfdjes gugpferb.
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GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
The Horse (Uquidae), is distinguished in his medium height,
fine form, well proportioned, strong limbs, lean, out-stretched
head, with large expressive eyes, medium size pricked ears and
expanding nostrils. The neck is strong and muscular, the body
round and fleshy, the coat of hair soft and short, but fitting
snugly. The hair on mane and tail is long and wavy. The
unsplit and neat hoof of the horse suffices to distinguish him
from all other cloven animals. Of the three different kinds of
teeth, there are the same equal number, six incisors, six long
molars, with somewhat rounding grooves on the outer surface,
and small hooked, blunt cone-shaped corner nippers form the
mouth piece of the horse.
In the skeleton, the length of the skull is remarkable, a third
of which covers the brain capacity, the remaining two-thirds
falling to the face. The breast is enclosed by sixteen vertebrae ;
eight form the loins, five the crupper, whereas the tail vertebrae
number as high as twenty-one. For the mastication of food, the
small tube leading into the stomach, and provided with a little
trap, is deserving of notice. The stomach itself is simply an
undivided small oval bag.
Horses are by nature spirited, lively, sagacious animals, their
movements graceful and proud. The ordinary gait of the un-
tamed horse is a rather brisk trot; in speeding, a somewhat light
gallop. Gentle and peacefully inclined towards other animals,
when not provoked, fearing wild animals and entertaining for
mim a similar shyness, defending themselves in case of necessity
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110                     GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSB.
from their foes by biting and kicking. Their increase is slow.
The mare, after carrying a long time, brings forth but a single
colt.
ORIGIN OF THE HORSB.
Two at least, perhaps three tribes, have succumbed to man.
History does not tell us when it first became a domestic animal;
even that part of the globe, where horses were first domesticated,
remains a mystery. The belief is, that to Central Asia belongs
the title; and to whose people our thanks are due for the acquire-
ment of the horse; yet is the date and race unknown, to which
we might turn in this extremity.
THE ARABIAN HORSE.
At the head of all horse tribes, up to tne present day,
stands the Arabian. For centuries past, careful training has
brought to bear with his numberless qualifications, the steed in
his present state. The Arabians claim the following combine the
perfect horse: Symmetrical build, short pricked ears, heavy,
but finely formed bones, a fleshless face, nostrils "expanding as
the jaws of a lion." Fine, dark beaming eyes, "whose expres-
sion loving as a woman's," the neck long and bent, breast and
crupper broad, narrow back, hind quarters rounding, very long
proper and very short shallow ribs, body well enlaced, long up-
per shanks, " like those of the ostrich," with the muscles of a
camel, a plain black hoof, a fine somewhat sparely settled mane,
but a full flowing tail, heavy at the roots, thinner toward the
end. The following four parts must be wide, namely, the fore-
head, the hips and the limbs; the neck, the upper shanks, the
belly and the flanks must be long; the croup, the ears, the crest
and the tail must be short. These qualifications signify that the
horse is of a pure breed and active; thus it compares in his con-
struction with " the greyhound, the dove and the camel" at the
same time. The mare must be possessing of the courage and
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The Arab Horse, — Z>as 2lxabex pferb.
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GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE.                      Ill
the width of the head the same as that of the wild hog, the
grace, the eye and the mouth of the gazelle, merry and cunning
as the antelope, the compact build and speed of the ostrich and
the tail as short as a viper.
All Arabs are of the opinion, that the Arabian steed has ever
been of the same noble specimen as it is to-day, and, therefore,
use great precaution in the rearing of their horses. Certain
customs have become habitual with them. Such as that
each owner deems himself in duty bound to loan his stallion to
the possessor of a noble mare, for the purpose of increasing the
pure breed. Stallions of pure breed are much sought after. The
owner of a mare will often ride hundreds of miles in eearch of a
stallion to breed from. In return for such favors, the owner of
the stallion is presented with a certain amount of barley, a sheep,
and a bag of milk. To accept money is considered ignominious,
and would be branded as " selling the love of his horse ;" only in
the case of a nobleman being called upon to loan his stallion for
an inferior mare is he at liberty to refuse. While the mare is in
foal she is given the greatest of care, although in the last month
only remains entirely unmolested. During the parturition wit-
nesses must be present to certify to the pure breed of the foal.
The young colt is treated with great consideration, and as one of
the family. Thus it is that the Arabian horse has become so
tame that he is often seen wandering in his master's tent, or with
the children at play.
In the eighteenth month the training of this noble animal
begins. At first a youth attempts to ride him. He leads him
to water, to graze, cleans, in fact takes entire charge of him.
Both being taught at the same time, the boy becomes a rider, the
horse well to ride; nor will the young Arab seek in any way to
overload his charge, or demand of him things not in his power to
fulfiH. The animal's every movement is watched, and treated
with the utmost kindness, though quick to punish resistance and
malevolence. Not until the expiration of the second year is the
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112                     GENERAL HISTORY OP THE HORSE.
horse won to the saddle. At the onset the bit is wound round
with wool or flannel, and oft besprinked with salt water, to accus-
tom the horse more readily to the unpleasant iron in his mouth.
The saddle used is as light as possible in the beginning. After the
third year he has gradually learned to make use of all his powers,
however never waiving from the course of his training. No-
where is the power of training so felt as in the deserts. As the
Arabian says : " The horseman lifts up and instructs his horse,
as the husband the wife." The services of a welj-trained Ara-
bian horse are truly great.
HORSE BREEDING IN ENGLAND.
At the present time the English are looked upon as fully
equal the Arabians in the breeding of horses. Two centuries
ago the Spaniards and Italians put up better horses than the
Britons; since then, however, the retarding of the former has
advanced the progress of the latter. The race horse is the un-
tiring and persevering effort to produce an animal excelling all
others in speed. Arabian, Turkish and Barb horses are pointed
out as the ancestors of the race horse, which, in the eyes of the
English, excells all others, though to the unprejudiced in beauty
and form far behind the Arabian steed. Being more than spare,
whose angular form is far from picturesque, head and neck hav-
ing lost all claim of being symmetrical, nevertheless it is im-
proved upon and brought out in all populated parts of the
European world, and often brings fifty thousand dollars, if not
more. To be sure, if the horse comes out ahead in the race, its
owner may come into the possession of a sufficiently remunera-
tive sum. " King Herod " won, in racing, ,£201,505. A three
year old thoroughbred will speed, on an average, 850 yards per
minute. All thoroughbreds are enrolled in the Stud Book of
Great Britain, in which to refer regarding their pedigree.
THE TRAKEHNER HORSE.
In Germany the breeding of horses has received due atten-
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GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE.                      113
tion only since the beginning of the last century. Until then it
was thought sufficient to rear horses without much attention as to
their pedigree. In the end of the last century the breeding of
horses in Germany was below that of the middle ages, which was
in closer relation with the East than later centuries. A national
breed of horses then was not in the least the idea. In Prussia
Frederick William I. was the first to bring the high breeding of
horses in the right channel; after which, in order to fill his sta-
bles with pure breeds, he caused to be erected the Stud Trakehner,
thereby laying the foundation of a national method to ennoble the
until then neglected old Prussian horse. Crossing the breed
of Arabian and English thoroughbreds, has brought forth the
Trakehner much like the race horse, yet stronger, and by far the
most serviceable, which we may still call the German horse,
especially as Trakehner and its branch establishments have had
an essential influence in the breeding and exalting of all old
Prussian horses, and which influence is still strongly felt.
Next to Prussia are Hanover, Mecklenburg, Holstein, and
principally Wurtemberg, given to the breeding of horses,
whereas, in Westphalia and along the Rhine are chiefly found
large heavy animals, particularly the Percheron, a gigantic, pow-
erful animal, who derives its name from its birthplace, the old
French province Perche, which has become very popular of late,
as the animal is found very proficient for heavy work.
THE SOUTH AMERICAN HORSE.
At the end of the fifteenth century, some time after the
discovery of America, little was known of the horse in this hem-
isphere ; not until the year 1535, when a few were introduced by
the Spaniards, and in the year 1537 a number were transported into
Paraguay. From these few were bred the countless herds which
have since spread over the entire southern part of the hemis-
phere, and from there, crossing the Isthmus of Panama, have
roamed into and spread over the whole of North America. In
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114                     GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE.
both of these divisions the horse runs wild, where the plains are
adapted to him, and not yet cultivated, but principally in South
America are found the greatest number of wild horses, on the
extensive plains which stretch almost unbroken from the La Plata
to the Patagonia. Here herds, numbering some thousands in
each, may be seen, each under the guidance of a master stallion,
who enforces submission to his will so long as he has the power
to do so. Here the native Gaucho has only to throw his lasso
and supply himself with a horse, that will carry him for miles at
a gallop until spent; lassos another, and so on. It was in this
way that Captain Head rode from one coast to the other (across
the continent) changing horses at every fifty or sixty miles.
These wild horses greatly resemble their Spanish ancestors in
form and build. They are quoted as possessing great speed,
though not greater than the average foreign breeds. Neverthe-
less, from ther wild habits, have good wind in speeding, and it is
said that a Gaucho has been known to ride one newly caught
horse over 100 miles without feeding.
THE MUSTANG, OR NORTH AMERICAN HORSE.
Like the wild horse of South America, those of Mexico and
California are undoubtedly of the same Spanish blood; in fact,
it is impossible to define with anything like certainty the origi-
nation of the Indian pony, large herds of which run wild in the
north and northwestern part of the continent.
THE INDIAN PONY.
The Indian pony, which is seldom or never over thirteen
hands high, is noted for its liveliness and strength. Notwith-
standing its small size, it can accomplish a great deal, and,
although the limbs of the rider almost touch the ground, he moves
under the burden with ease. He has a high crest, and a flowing
main and tail, carries his head high, making a fine appearance.
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GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE.
The body is strongly built and the legs and feet are composed of
the most lasting material. Large herds of these ponies may be
found on the prairies of the Northwest, and many are trans-
ported into Canada for use.                                 • ^
THE CANADIAN HORSE.
The Canadian horse is generally about fourteen to fifteen
hands high, and is noticeable for its hardiness; capable of trav-
eling long distances, but in his own way not above the average
in speed. When crossed, however, with a thoroughbred, it com-
bines the speed of the latter with his own tenaciousness, iron
constitution and legs. In this way are bred some of the best
race horses. Next to the active Canadian horse, there are many
more American breeds, namely: The " Morgan Horse," the
"American Courser," the " Narraganset Pacer " and the " Thor-
oughbred," whose ancestors having been imported, of English and
French blood, has thus little of domestic blood in its veins. Of
the agricultural horse there is to be mentioned the Vermont and
Conestoga draught horse, and several others not classified. The
horse differs in the various regions of the United States. In
several instances, certain classes have been sorted out for breed-
ing ; still, the greater part of our horses which are considered
"pure breed " retain the name and character they inherited from
England and France. It was customary, until recently, to-
underestimate the value of the American horse. Special atten-
tion is given now to the breeding of large heavy horses. In
comparison with all other classes our own horse ranks the same,
on an average, as those of other countries. Our fast horses will
run equally as fast, and our racers and trotters have greater
speed than others. In general, our horses are worthy the praise
of being active, cunning, sagacious, and of a good disposition.
THE THOROUGHBRED.
The term thoroughbred is applied to the horse of a breed,
namely, the English-French race-horse. This breed deserves
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GENERAL HISTORY OF THE HORSE.
with right to be the first on the list—not so much on account of
its practical usefulness as the influence it has on other breeds
and classes. It is the most symmetrical type of a horse, for
speed, courage,"and strength, trained principally for the race.
Horses of this breed are, in general, poor pacers, and very seldom
good trotters. They are generally too light to perform heavy
work, and often too restless and excited for light work. By
crossing the breed has greatly improved the American horse.
The thoroughbred is a descendant of the Arab, Barb, Turkish,
and Persian horses, and to some extent crossed with English
horses. Nearly a century has been given, and no pains spared,
to the breeding of these horses, which are now decidedly larger
and faster than their forefathers and the modern Arabian steed.
The English settlers—chiefly those in the Southern States—im-
ported, in earlier times, quite a number of these horses, and thus
were many bred here. Horse-racing has never been as popular
in the United States as in England, although it is believed that the
same time could be made here. The American race-horse, Ten
Broek, ran a mile in one minute and forty seconds. The most popu-
lar colors of these horses are bay, chestnut, and brown. Gray and
black are also seen occasionally. White spots on head and neck
are also not uncommon. They are from fifteen to sixteen hands
high ; the average weight is 1,000 pounds. These horses pos-
sess a light head and neck, with broad forehead, beaming eye,
and large nostrils. The rump is quite long, the back and sides
muscular. The breast is well developed, the withers of medium
height, shoulders sloping, the hips wide, the hind quarters long
and more powerful than the fore parts. The legs are somewhat
lengthy, the bones fine, the pasterns long and inclining. The
skin is soft, the hair short and fine; mane and tail light and
straight. Among the celebrated horses of this breed, of the im-
ported or those bred here, are mentioned Messenger, Diomed
Duroc, Trustee, and, of late, Lexington, Leamington, Australia,
Bonnie Scotland, and Ten Broek.
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1
TRAINING OF HORSES.
The right education of the horse is of the greatest import-
ance for its value to the wants of man. In the following lessons
we endeavor to explain in the most direct manner possible, cer-
tain infallible rules, which, if strictly adhered to, will surely and
safely accomplish the result desired. Explanations of the traits,
habits, and causes of the habits of the animal, with reasons for
every step to be taken, will, as far as necessary, accompany each
illustration.
THE WILD COLT.
The inclosure in which you intend to operate upon the colt
must be unoccupied by anything which might distract the atten-
tion of the colt; for instance, fowls, domestic animals, etc., and
all persons except the one who is to undertake the training.
This latter precaution should be taken for the reason that the
presence of other parties would annoy the colt.
Get the colt into his training-place as carefully as possible,
using such gentle means as may be convenient and most likely to
be successful without exciting the colt. We have found the fol-
lowing rules very useful:
HALTEK-BKEAK THE COLT.
This is often accompanied with danger, umess the proper
steps are taken to avoid it. Our experience has taught us that
at this point it is well to be governed by these rules: First, Pro-
vide against accident to yourself; Second, Secure your horse
against the possibility of injury; Third, Accomplish your desire
with the animal in the quickest time possible to render the lesson
a permanent one. Having these rules in view, we proceed as
follows: Take a stick about the size of a rake-stale, and about
ten or twelve feet in length, the length to be governed by the
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118                                  TRAINING OF HORSES.
prospect of danger from the viciousness or nervousness of the
colt. Commence within about an inch of one end, and whittle
up a few stout shavings on one side, whittling toward the center
of the stick, and leaving the shavings attached to the stick; a
few inches from the shavings alluded to (the distance to be
governed by the width apart of the colt's ears), whittle up a few
similar shavings, whittling this time from the center of the stick.
Take a common rope halter, with a running noose; hang the
part of the halter which is intended to rest on the head back of
the ears, upon the shavings (they being strong enough to bear the
weight of the halter), turning the shavings upward for security
in holding it. You can now commence operations with the colt,
in doing which it is advisable to understand the fact that curiosity
is a strong trait in the horse, and, when not overcome by fear or
some other powerful influence, is sure to prevail. This you can
test previous to operating, if you choose, by placing a hat or
handkerchief upon the end of your stick, and holding it toward
the colt. He may be alarmed at first, but if you remain quiet,
moving the object gently, the nature of the colt will be to reach
his nose toward it, and quite likely to touch it. He will soon
become accustomed to the stick, and will manifest the same
curiosity in regard to the halter. You will now take the halter,
with the noose unloosened perhaps half the length of the halter-
stale, holding the end with the stick in both hands, the halter
being placed upon the shavings, as before suggested. If the
halter-stale is not long enough, attach a piece, as it is best to
keep yourself as far as possible from the colt. The colt will
gradually begin to smell at the halter, when you will hold the
stick pretty well up over the head, and while the animal's atten-
tion is attracted by the swinging of the halter, and his nose near
that portion of the halter-stale which is slipped through the
noose, you will gently pass the rope over his ears, and, turning
the stick half round, drop the rope from the shavings upon the
colt's head, just back of the ears. This will probably cause the
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119
TRAINING OF HORSES.
colt to start back, and, by holding firmly upon the halter-stale,
the noose will be drawn up, fastening the halter upon the head.
The stick may now be laid aside.
Having your colt haltered, your object is now to teach him
its use. You will take a position about opposite the shoulder,
still keeping at a distance, and give him a sharp, short pull toward
you, sufficient to move him, immediately slackening your pull.
The object in doing this is to cause the animal to feel your power
to move him, and by slackening the pull you do not give him
time to resist, which, if the pull should be steady, he will do, even
to the extent of throwing himself down (which i3 to be always
avoided). This you may repeat for a few times, until the dis-
position to resist seems to grow weaker. You will then repeat
the operation upon the other side, alternating from side to side
(always avoiding a forward pull), and continuing the short pulls
until the colt either moves readily or becomes stubborn. The
reason for working upon both sides is that in this, as well as all
other points which you attempt to instruct the horse, there are
two sides to teach-^ What he learns to do from one side must
be learned by the same process on the other side, in order to
have the same understanding of what is required of him. The
reason for avoiding a forward pull is that you can not easily
move the colt in that direction; and, as he learns from your
acts, you should attempt to perform no act in which you are not
reasonably sure to succeed.
If the colt appears to be of a yielding disposition, you will
now gradually shorten your hold upon the halter, as you pull
from side to side, being watchful to avoid the possibility of his
striking or kicking you, until you come within reach of his head,
when you will gently put forth your hand and allow him to ex-
amine it with his nose—that organ being the one made use of by
all horses to test the danger or harmlessness of substances which
alarm them. As he becomes accustomed to your presence, which
he will readily do if you are gentle, you will then proceed to care-
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120
TRAINING OF HORSES.
fully caress him over the face and forehead, gradually extending
your hand down his neck, being cautious not to touch his ears.
As soon as he begins to cringe or grow restive under your hand,
remove it and gently place it again near his nose, repeating the
former operation, extending the hand farther and farther at each
repetition, until he becomes calm. You will now quietly tie a j
knot through the noose, so that it can not slip, leaving it quite
loose, to avoid hurting him. You will now step back and repeat the
pulling operation, being careful to get a side pull. As you pass in
front, if the colt shows a disposition to move, instead of pulling
immediately, first approach and caress him, performing slowly
and gently, and, as far as you can, encouraging the animal when-
ever he shows signs of doing what you require, until he steps
willingly without the pull.
Figure 1.
Should the colt prove to be of a stubborn disposition,
and refuse to move as you desire, you will take hold of the hal-
ter-stale with your left hand about a foot from the head, and
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121
TRAINING OF HORSES.
with your right hand seize him by the tail, and give him a few
sharp turns around, pulling the head toward you, and giving him
an occasional kick with the top of your foot across the buttock.
(See Figure 1.) This will have the effect of creating a degree of
submission, the colt learning that he has a master. Now proceed
with the pulling as before; and if he remains stubborn, repeat
the operation of turning twice or three times. By this time he
will probably appear to brighten up, and show signs of being
willing to step. If he should not, you will take a bow-top whip
or beech limb in your right hand, holding the halter-stale with
Figure 2.
your left hand, you standing by his side. Hold the whip over
the back of the colt and touch him gently with it across the off-
side hip, at the same moment giving a gentle side pull upon the
halter. (See Figure 2.) If he starts forward with this movement
caress him and then repeat with the whip. If he does not start,
use a little more force with the whip. If he is still stubborn
and does not show signs of moving, caress him, give him a kind
look or word, and step back a few moments before proceeding^
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122
TRAINING OF HORSES.
allowing him to get quiet if he appears angered ; as the reason
for this conduct is that the colt is frightened, and by your kind-
ness and patience alone is he to be assured that you do not mean to
injure him. He will soon grow less excited, when you may pro-
ceed. As soon as the colt will step readily at a slight side pull,
take oiF the halter or throw the halter-stale over the neck, and
let him go.
The colt should now be left alone for at least half an hour,
or until he has recovered from the excitement. Any time there-
after, the lesson may be repeated; and as soon as he becomes
perfectly accustomed to obey the side* pull, you may then, and
not before, commence to teach him to obey the forward pull, by
gently pulling him straight ahead; and if he leads, no matter
how little, caress him and repeat; but be careful and not pull too
hard. If he does not move with a reasonable pull, give him two
or three of the short side pulls, and try again. In a little while
he will obey your desire, and lead. Be sure and not give a
•determined pull in front, as it will not succeed, and will only
teach the colt your weakness, and by inflicting pain upon him
learn him to pull at the halter—the natural movement being in
an opposite direction from whatever causes the pain.
HITCHING THE COLT IN THE STALL.
The stall, which should be a common one-horse stall, about
four feet wide, should be prepared by having a hole bored on
each side of the rear end of the stall, to put a pole through, or
staples driven in to tie a rope or strap across, at about the height
where the breeching would come on the colt if harnessed. You
will lead the colt into the stall; and if some other person can be
called to assist, have him put up the pole or strap—if not, do it
yourself, being sure to have it done before you tie the colt. The
reason for putting up the obstruction in the rear before tying is,
because you thereby avoid the risk of the colt, through fright,
pulling at the halter. When once tied, which should be with
-considerable slack, if he attempts to back out of the stall he will
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123
TRAINING OF HORSES.
hit the rope or pole and step forward, instead of hurting his
head with the halter and pulling harder to avoid the hwrt. In
removing the colt from the stall be sure and untie the halter
before loosening the obstruction in the rear, and for the first few
days be careful and not hitch the colt where he can have a
chance to pull. By observing these rules for eight or ten days,
there is no danger that the colt will ever become a halter-puller.
Bear in mind that during the entire process of handling the colt
it is proper and necessary to speak to him in a mild manner, for
the purpose of familiarizing him with your voice, and as a par-
tial guard over your own temper. Never speak sharp or over
loud, but gently and firmly. For instance, in your side pulls
say, " Come here, sir!" This kept up, will eventually teach the
colt to come to you on being called by these words.
THE BITTING-BRIDLE.
(See Figures 3 and 4.)
A convenient way to make
it, is, to take a common
harness pad and crouper ;
pull out the breeching strap
and take out the terrets (or a
' rope around the body and a
• strap for the crouper will an-
swer.) Put on a common
driving bridle without blinds;
under all circumstances use a
joint-bit. Take a piece of cot-
ton clothes-line rope, about
Figure 3.                      ten feet long; place the cen-
ter of the rope in the check-hook, or fasten it to the strap which
runs to the crouper; pass one end of the rope through the gag-
runner on the near side of the horse, passing it from toward the
nostril back through the ring of the bit; draw it tolerably tight,
4
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TRAINING OF HORSES.
and tie it to the pad or girth at the side. Perform the same
operation on the offside. You will see that by tying the rope
to the girth well up the sides toward the check-hook, it will com-
pel him to hold his head high, and will throw the nose out; by
tying them well down on the side it will lower the head and
curve the neck, at the same time giving him the power to move
the head up and down with considerable ease. In cases where
bitting is required only for the purpose of suppling and devel-
oping the muscles of the neck this bridle should be used, as we
have never known a horse to be injured by falling backward by
being geared in this bridle.
Figure 4.
In placing the bitting-bridle upon the colt great care should
be taken not to buckle any of the straps very tight at first, as
you might give pain and alarm the animal. Be particular and have
the throat-latch loose enough, so that when he straightens up it will
not choke him. Many horses have been ruined by carelessness in
this particular. In gearing him up care should be taken that the
check is not too tight at first, lest he should, in rearing, go over
\
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TRAINING! OF HORSES.
backward and fall on the top of his head. Another reason is,
that he will thereby yield more readily to the side-reins. The
checking up should be governed by the length and form of the
neck and shoulders. The side straps should be buckled just suf-
ficiently to impose restraint upon the colt. As soon as the colt
shows a disposition to yield the bridle should be removed on the
check and side straps loosened. This should be done within at
least five minutes from the time it is put on. The oftener it is
taken )ff and replaced, for the first three days, the better; not,
however, removing it while the colt is sulky and refuses to move
his head. A lesson to be taught him here is, that he can not be
loosened from the restraint while he is resisting it. This will
prove useful in all future dealings with the animal. At your
leisure you may now proceed
TO GET THE COLT USED TO THE BIT.
Place on the colt an ordinary head-stall with a joint-bit,
without any check-strap or reins. Leave him in the stable or
yard for a few minutes, then remove it. Frequently replace it,
and allow it to remain on a short time. By this means his
mouth becomes used to the bit, which is a great improvement on
the old way of putting on the bitting-bridle at once. After a
few times doing this, the colt is ready for harnessing.
HARNESSING OF THE COLT.
In the first place, harness the colt and allow him to walk
around the yard or remain in the barn about a half an hour, to
get accustomed to the rattling of the straps and the feeling of
the harness in these unaccustomed positions; then remove the
harness. When convenient replace the harness, for a short time,.
and again remove it. The third time you harness the colt, after
he has been harnessed a few minutes, pass the tugs through the
ring of the breeching and tie them, drawing the breeching and
breast-collar pretty snugly against the body. After a little time
you may commence to drive him with the reins, turning him in
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TRAINING OF HOUSES.
different directions, and gently urging him forward, impressing
upon him the fact that you control him, thus teaching him to
obey the rein and go without leading. Be careful each time to
repeat the word "whoa!" at the same instant you pull up on the
reins to stop him.
HITCHING UP THE COLT.
If possible avoid hitching him up single. If it is really
necessary, however, to do so, be particular to place him in the
thills as quietly as possible. As there is no particular danger
attached to this transaction, we have no established rule, leaving
the operator to be governed by circumstances and his own judg-
ment. Before hitching him to the wagon, rattle the thills, shake
the wagon, walk him out and in between the thills, leading him
in toward the wagon, unchecking him and allowing him to exam-
ine in his own way the object which is so new and terrifying to
him. You must accustom him to the wagon or there will be
danger. If he continues frightened in spite of these efforts, it
will be well to let him go for a while. If after one or two attempts
he still continues excited and restive, you may apply the bitting
bridle. You may then hitch him to the wagon and drive him
very carefully on level ground for a short time, for the first few
times avoiding backing and turning if possible, being careful for
a few days to give only short drives; after which several miles
and back will do no harm, gradually toughening the colt to do
your work.                  •
We recommend, however—and it is the only method which
can be safely used—to hitch the colt up alongside of a broke
horse, putting him on the off-side. The harness being on both
horses (quite loosely on the colt), with long inside lines you will
buckle a short strap around the near hoof of the colt just below
the fetlock, with an inch ring slipped on the strap before buckling
and left there. Tie a long line or rope to the ring, pass it under
the girth of the colt, bringing it up on the outside of his trace,
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TRAINING OF HOUSES.                                 127
and holding it with the line in your hands. You will then drive
the team about; as you start them, promptly and decidedly using
such word as you choose, never varying from the same word, fre-
quently pulling up the lines and saying "whoa!" at the same
drawing up on the line attached to the foot, until the foot is lifted
from the ground and held there, leaving the colt standing on
three legs in spite of his struggles. After a few times doing this
you may unharness him, as that is sufficient for this lesson.
When ready to hitch up, which you may now do at your leisure,
you will do as before, and, after a little driving, hitch the team
to the wagon and get in. You now have the foot-strap
alluded to (see Figure 5) passing from your hand between the
pole and the colt's near trace, under his girth and fastened to
Figure 6.
the near foot. You may now start up slowly, stopping the team
once or twice while on a walk, saying " whoa!" as before, and pull-
ing up the footstrap. You will now readily perceive that you have
perfect control over the colt's movements, whether on a walk or
run, and without any danger to the colt. The colt will not
stumble, strange as it may appear, it being almost impossible for
him to fall by this means while in motion. Short and lively
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128
TRAINING OF HORSES.
drives are what you now want until the colt becomes wonted and
obeys the rein and word " whoa!" » You may then change sides
with him, to teach the other side of him, of course changing the
foot-strap to the inside each time. When he has by this means
become accustomed to being handled freely, you may then hitch
him up, single or double as you may choose, for he is now
ready to drive.
TEACHING TnE COLT TO BACK.
This should not be attempted until the colt has been driven
eight or ten days, nor until the habit of readily stopping, start-
ing, driving and obeying the reins has been formed. If this rule
is followed no colt will balk, throw himself down in harness, run
into the fence, or refuse to stand while the driver is getting into
the carriage. When sufficient time has elapsed to warrant you
in undertaking to teach him to back, you will take a common
bridle, or a bitting-bridle is best, and begin by taking hold of the
side-reins, standing in front of the colt, and gently pushing back-
ward, saying " back !" at the time he steps back. This you will
repeat until he readily takes two or three steps backward, when
you will release him for the present. At the next trial you may
put on the reins and take your position behind him, passing the
reins through the side loops of the girth, or, if obliged to use a
harness, through the thill-straps, holding the reins well down by
his side to prevent him from turning round and facing you.
Have him loosely checked. As you step behind him, pull
gently on the reins, and as he steps backward say " back !" and
immediately slacken the lines. A half an hour's exercise is
usually sufficient at a time, repeating the operation until he backs
readily. It is well to give him one or two sharp, steady pulls,
for eight or ten feet backward just before leaving him each time.
He is now ready to be hitched up as you usually hitch up your
horses, and ready to form the habit of backing to wagon at the
word. Be careful for the first few t'mes not to ask him to back
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TRAINING OF HORSES.                                 129
with a load, each time naving the wagon in a favorable position,
such as descending ground when the attempt is made. By using
this caution the colt will soon learn to be handy, and practice
will enable him to be perfect. Under all circumstances in hand-
ling the colt, preserve your temper, no matter how much incon-
venienced ; for if you lose control of yourself you will be sure to
lose control of your charge. The colt is to be governed by kind-
ness and determination, not by abuse and tyranny.
RIDING THE COLT.
This should not be done until he is well bridle-broke. Be-
gin the lesson in the barn or yard. Place on him a common
riding-bridle, without girth or martingale. Tie the bridle-reins
Figure 6.
together on top of the neck, tight enough to check him a very
little. Stand on the near side, near the shoulder; throw a web-
bing or tie-strap across the withers, near where the reins lie.
Quietly reach under in front and caress the fore-legs, and as soon
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130
TRAINING OF HORSES.
as he is sufficiently calmed, tie the webbing or strap to the off-
side foot, just below the fetlock. If he is restive, and prevents
you from trying it, or shows signs of striking or kicking, take
him by the head and tail, the left hand well up to the head, and
whirl him around two or three times (see Figure 1), and while
he is disconcerted by this movement, stoop and tie the strap.
Then take hold of the near rein within about four inches of the
head, and with the right hand draw upon the strap so as to pull
the foot clear from the ground, at the same time pulling on the
rein toward you quite firmly, until he has made two or three
hops on three legs. The points to be gained by this are, first,
you teach the colt that he is not to be hurt, and that he can not
get away. This tends to prevent his " plunging" when you
afterward attempt to ride him; second, by pulling the strap
across the back, it accustoms him to bear a weight upon the back;
third, it prevents him from throwing himself over backward;
fourth, it accomplishes your desire in a safer and quicker way
than any other known. .Now take a shorter hold of the web or
strap, with the foot held up, passing your right arm well over
his back, with the left hold of the near rein and mane near the
withers, and then make the motion of mounting. Do this a few
times until the colt becomes accustomed to the new positions and
movements. Then gently mount him, the foot being still held
up. (See Figure 6). Now let down the foot and start him
along. If he shows signs of being restive or attempting to throw
you, pull up the foot and caress him. He will not fall down
while the foot is up, as it might be supposed he would. Keep
well hold of the fooi-strap, untie the knot in the reins, and let-
ting down the foot, commence turning him from side to side and
urging him forward. If he is unwilling to start, take a short
bow-top whip or switch, holding it in the same hand with which
you hold the foot-strap, and gently touch him with it on the off
hind-leg, just back of the stifle, gradually increasing the blow
until he starts, at the same time loosening the reins. In turning
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131
TRAINING OF HORSES.
him, use caution and do not pull upon but one rein at a time, for the
reason that, if you pull upon both, the colt will be apt to run
backward, sideways, and otherwise act awkwardly. Do not ride
him at a distance the first time. This lesson with the foot-strap
should, be repeated three or four times, until the colt is accus-
tomed to your presence on his back, and your legs against his-
side.
TO MOUNT THE COLT.
Take hold of the mane with your left hand, placing the right
hand upon the back; then, springing lightly, raise yourself upon
your wrists until your middle reaches the height of the horse's-
withers, when, as you lean over the horse, with a quick spring
you throw your weight upon your wrists, pulling strongly
with your arms, and with a quick spring, you throw your right
leg over the crouper, and are mounted.
KICKING IN DOUBLE HARNESS.
A very disagreeable and contemptibly mean habit—one-
quite likely to be bred, but, if not, sure to have been caused by
mismanagement—is that of crowding against the pole, and frisk-
ing and kicking while in double harness. To break him of this
habit, and, in the act of breaking him, to form other habits which
are of value, take the colt into the barn or yard, and apply the
bitting bridle (Figure 3). Now put on the harness, checking
him up as tight as he will bear, and apply the "long foot-strap,"
fastening it to the near fore-foot, bringing it up under the girth;
take hold of the reins and foot-strap, and start him along, pulling
up the foot frequently and stopping him, saying, "whoa!" as
you pull up, turning 'him occasionally about; then change sides
with the strap, and repeat the operation. Take the long strap off"
the foot, tie it round the neck, and pass it along the near side of
him, and put it between his hind-legs, holding the near fore-foot
in your left hand, to avoid being hurt. Drop the fore foot and
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132
TRAINING OF HORSES.
Tmng the strap back around the near hind leg, close up to the
body, on the near side, and pass it through the part tied around
the neck, and commence drawing this up. He will probably
cringo and be frightened; keep hold of the bridle well up to the
head, with your left hand. Keep tightening the strap until he
allows you to pull up his hind-leg without struggling; theD
change to the other hind-foot, repeating the same process. This
should be repeated two or three times, if he is very spiteful.
When completed, the colt is then ready to hitch up with another
horse. Hitch him up on t'he side on which he is in the habit of
kicking, with the "long strap " around the inside foot, and held
-with the reins. Walk him along, driving straight ahead, pulling
up the foot and stopping him occasionally. Then begin turning
him, doing it quickly, and managing to have the pole hit him,
at the same time pulling up on the foot, but compelling him to
go around. If afraid of the trace, change sides with the strap.
This should be kept up for about ten minutes at a time. If the
habit should continue, repeat this a few times, when he will re-
cover from it.
PULLING AT HALTER.
(See Figure 1.)
Place on him a common halter head-stall. Put on a common
girth. Take a half-inch rope about twenty feet long. Pass the
center of this rope under the tail in place of a crouper; twist the
rope over a couple of times; pass the ends of the rope under the
girth, bringing an end up on each side of the neck, and pass the
ends through the nose-piece of the head-stall, under the check-
pieces, and tie to a stout ring or place, leaving about three feet
play of rope. As soon as the horse pulls back, he being tied by
the tail to the ring, he pulls upon the tail (see Figure 7), and the
hurt coming there instead of the head, where he expected it, he
starts up, it being natural to go from the hurt. In fact, any plan
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133
TRAINING OF HORSES.
which brings the pull in the
rear, either upon the tail or
leg, will do the business.
Your own ingenuity will de-
vise several ways to accom-
plish this, but we consider
tying to the tail the safest,
as there is no danger at-
tached to it; and if he is
in the habit of pulling nights,
this arrangement may be left
on without fear of the horse
getting tangled in the rope,
as there would be if tied to
the leg. Common-sense will
show that as there is no pull
upon the head, and conse-
quently no hurt there, he will
soon cease pulling, and lose
the habit. To make the
lessons effective, you may
cause him to pull by using
such exciting means as are
apt to alarm him.
BRIDLE-PULLING.
Put a rope on the tail in the same manner as in halter-
pulling, except that you pass the ends through the rings of a
bridle, and tie them to a post where the'horse is in the habit of
pulling, unhitching the wagon, if one is attached. Step away,
and frighten him by means of a wheelbarrow or whatever is apt
to alarm him, causing him to pull. As he pulls, the pressure
coming upon the tail, he will step up to the post. Take hold of
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"I
134                                 TRAINING OF HORSES
the rope between the post and his head, and give it a few pulls
back and forth. By this means he will learn to step forward
rather than to pull back. After a few lessons he may be tied
with a common tie-strap, the end, however, passing through the
ring of the bridle-bit, and being tied to the back-strap. Do this
until you are satisfied you have effected a cure.
HOW TO THROW A HORSE.
The easiest and most effectual method of throwing down a
horse is to strap up the near side fore-foot; put on a surcingle,
with a ring fastened to the top of the surcingle; tie a half-inch
rope around his neck in the same manner ^ou would to hitch him
Figure 8.
by the neck ; place it up near the throat-latch, with the knot on
the near side of the face; pass the rope through the mouth, and
bring it along his neck on the off side, and pass it through the
ring on the back; standing back on the near side, about six or
eight feet from the horse, opposite his near side hind-leg, drawing
the rope sufficiently tight to keep it in the mouth. Pull care-
fully until he yields his head a little to the off side; then give a
sharp, strong pull, and, keeping your hold, pull strongly until he
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135
TRAINING OF HORSES.
is down {see Figure 8), which will occupy from one to five sec-
onds. As he g$es down, lying upon the near side, you keep the
rope tightened, and he cannot get up. By repeating this, you
will soon make him quite a trick-horse, as he will learn to lie
down by simply pulling upon the off bridle-rein. Throwing is
often necessary in surgical operations, and as the horse may be
thrown on either side, and with perfect safety, by this plan, we
consider it preferable to the former way of throwing him by main
strength.
A JUMPING RI8.
This cut represents a
horse with a surcingle on,
and two straps around the
fore legs or fore arms.
This is to stop horses,
cattle, or sheep from jump-
ping fences or running
in the pasture when you
want to catch them. This
is plain, simple, and cheap.
It will cost, at any har-
ness shop, $1.25 to make
it, and the horse cannot gcr
over a fence two feet high.
Figure 9.                        To make it, take any com-
mon surcingle, sew on, near the buckle, a strap to hold a ring one
inch in diameter; then go fourteen inches on the surcingle, and
sew on another strap and ring; then take two straps one inch
wide, two feet three inches long, with buckles on, and put them
through the rings and around the legs, and you have a complete
rig to stop any animal from jumping. They can eat, walk, lie
down, and get up, but cannot jump. Try it.
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THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
The age of the horse not only adds importance to its power
of endurance and services, but also influences the value of the
same; it is therefore of great importance to know the exact age,
and especially as the nippers, whose cutting, alternation, and
whose transfer takes places at certain periods, and serves as a
guide to ascertain with certainty the age up to the eighth year;
for this reason a knowledge of the dentition of the horse is-
invaluable. There are, to be sure, certain other points in distin-
guishing the exact age, for instance, at somewhat advanced age
a sprinkle of white hair on the eyebrows and forehead, the sink-
ing of the hollow over the eyes, the throat passage sunken and
stiongly marked, etc., and yet these changes are sometimes
wrought by circumstances, which makes it often impossible to-
ascertain the exact age.
The teeth are composed of substances: th«
dentine (d), also called ivory substance; the
enamel (e), and the bone substance (c), cement.
Figure 1 gives the three formations in their
natural size. The stallion has 40 teeth, viz.,
24 molars, 12 incisors and 4 tushes; the latter
are missing in the mare, therefore leaving but
36. The 6 incisors form a half circle in both
the upper and lower jaw, set in an even row,
closing one over the other; they serve to grasp
and bite off the food. The tushes stand isolated
in their places, thus in the space existing be-
tween the incisors and molars, still nearer the
incisors; they do not, however, touch close on
Pig. 1, Section of
Inciaor.
each other, as the tushes of the under jaw are
(136)
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13T
THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
set further forward than those of the upper jaw. The molars
stand six in each side of the jaw, close together, form an even;
surface and close on each other; they are four-cornered with the
exception of the foremost and last of each row, being more of a
three-corner shape; they serve to crush and chew the food;;
whereupon the surface is rough and uneven.
Of these teeth, and foremost the nippers of the lower jaw,
are used to establish the age of the horse, as the molars cannot
be so easily examined, and as also the tushes, do not undergo
such changes as the nippers.
Still, before proceeding further in the description of the-
transformation of the teeth, it will be necessary to so examine
the classification and nature of the teeth.
In each tooth there is a distinction between the root, the-
neck and crown of the same. In the center of the nippers may
be found, still to a certain age, long round black cavities, with a.
somewhat upraised gleaming white edge, which are called marks,
which after awhile wear off; these marks are particularly con-
sidered the best judgement of the horse's age.
Further on we make a distinction between the milk teeth,,
temporary teeth and permanent teeth. The milk or foaling
teeth are smaller and frailer, and often exist before birth, or in
the earliest infancy of the colt. These foal teeth soon fall out.
and the temporary teeth make their appearance; to these belong
the several incisors and the three first molars in each row, mak-
ing in all 12 incisors and 12 molars.
Permanent teeth are termed those which are never ex-
cnanged for the space of life; to these belong the three last
molars in each row and the four bushes.
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138
THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
In form, size and color the milk nippers differ
from the permanent nippers. The first display the
crown (a), and the root (b), (see Figure 2.) The
crown appears above the flesh, with a grinding
surface (c), which is oval and having in its center
a cavity \ of an inch in depth, which is called
mark. As the edges wear off in grinding, this
mark disappears gradually, until at last entirely
lost to view. The color of the crown of the foal-
ing teeth is either a faint white or of a yellowish
Figure 2.
tint.
The incisors of the matured horse are decid-
' edly longer and thicker than are the milk teeth,
they are set more oblique, have more of a yellow-
ish tint, and the outer surface indented with a
long groove (see Figure 3), which is deeper
and of a darker tone than in the milk teeth.
As in the latter, so have also those of the fully
developed horse a grinding surface; cavities or
marks are also found in the permanent, although
deeper. The tushes (see Figure 4),
are cone-shaped and pointed at
the«nd, with a somewhat outward-
ly inclined crown; in the young
animal they are hollow, but gradu-
ally become filled with bone sub-
stance (cement), and appear to an
advanced age equally sustained.
Figure 3.
They wear off continually, so that
at 12 to 15 years the crown is almost entirely ob-
literated.
The age of the horse is recognized by: the Figure 4.
falling out or decay of the milk teeth, the transformation of the
teeth, and the natural change which they undergo.
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139
THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
At its birth the foal is already possessed of twelve molars,
and often both anterior incisors have put in appearance; but, as
a rule, the latter are cut in the first ten days after birth. In the
next four or six weeks the central nippers break through, and
from the sixth to the ninth month the corner nippers have also
come forth. Each of these nippers have on their grinding sur-
face a mark which after awhile disappears in consequence of the
intervening teeth, and coming in contact with their opposites,
are naturally worn oif. This disappearance of the mark on the
anterior nippers follows after the expiration of the first year, on
the central nippers at one and one-half years, and on the cornel
nippers at the end of the second year; therefore in the two year
old foal the marks of the milk teeth have entirely disappeared.
The growth of the foaling-teeth has thus ended, and under
these are formed the so-called temporary teeth. The foaling-
teeth have fallen out, and the transformation of the teeth begins.
With 2J years the changing of both the anterior nippers and the
first molar of each row takes place. After another half year,
being the third year, both central nippers have so far advanced
as to come in grinding contact with those of the opposite jaw,
and at the same time the second molar in each row is transplanted.
In three and one-half years the central nippers and third molar
in each row are cut, but not until the expiration of the fourth
year do the central nippers meet. With 4J years the corner
nippers are cut, which, with five years, come in mutual contact.
There are thus several nippers cut and in use, and it is said
"the horse has shed all his teeth."
Further, with 1J years appears the fourth molar, with 2|
years the fifth, and with 4J years the sixth molar. The tushes
are shed between the fourth and fifth years. They are at first
pointed, with sharp edges, and in the sixth year fully developed;
after the eighth year, they gradually wear off. During the space
of five years the transforming and shedding of teeth has been
completed, and the horse, then also (as a general rule), fully
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140                                THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
Fig. 6. Mouth of the Colt at 4J^ years.
1.   1. Central nippers, considerably worn
down.
2.    2. The next pair, fully developed, with
their edges slightly worn down.
3.   3. Permanent corner nippers, in a state
of growth, with the edges of the cavity
sharp, and the mark very plain.
4.   4. The Tushes showing themselves
through the gum, but not full grown.
Fig. 5. Three-year old Month,
1.    1. Central permanent nippers, nearly full
grown.
2.    2, Milk teeth worn down.
3.   3. Corner milk teeth, showing central
mark.
4.   4. TusheB concealed within the jaw.
Fig. 8. Lower NipperB and Tushes at five
years old.
- 1. 1. Central nippers, with their marks
almost entirely worn out.
2.    2. Next nippers, marks partially worn.
3.   3. Corner nippers, with the mark plainly
seen, edges somewhat worn.
4.   4. Tushes, with the grooves inside almost
obliterated.
Fig. 7. Upper Nippers and Tushesat five
years old.
1.   1. Central nippers, with the mark still
unobliterated.
2.    2. Next nippers, with the mark still
plainer.
3.   3. Corner nippers, with the edges very
slightly worn.
4.   4, Tushes, well developed and still show-
ing the groove on the outside plainly.
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THE AGE OF THE HORSE.                             141
Fig. 9. The lower teeth of a six year
old horse.
1.   1, Central nippers, with the marks worn
out.
2.    2. "With the marks disappearing.
3.   3. The corner nippers, showing the mirk
plainly enough, but with the edges of
the cavity considerably worn,
4.   4. The Tushes protruding % of an inch,
with their points only slightly blunted
Fig. 10. At seven years old.
Fig. 11. At nine years.
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142                               THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
developed. As has been shown thus far, the age of the horse
is judged up to his fifth year by his dentition; after the fifth
year, however, the age can be ascertained only by the wearing
off of the nippers and the necessarily following changes of the
grinding surface ; and in this instance the nippers of the lower
jaw are principally taken into consideration, the wearing off of
the upper jaw having no set time. On both inner nippers,
the marks disappear after the sixth year. With the seventh
year, the marks of central nippers disappear, and with the eighth
year the corner nippers, so that in the eighth year the marks are
all worn down. A peculiar change takes place the ninth year
in the corner nippers of the upper jaw, inasmuch that not wholly
coming in contact with those of the lower jaw, in consequence of
an expanding of the latter jaw, which happens in the seventh
year, a sharp corner is left in the upper corner nipper; it begins
with the eighth year, is most conspicuous in the ninth year, but
is gradually lost sight of with the eleventh year. Up to the
eighth year a knowledge of the exact age of the horse is not
attended with much trouble, but in later vears it doubles in un-
certainty and a correct statement of the age cannot be ascer-
tained. It can then be given only within two or three years of
the age, judging by the form or surface of the nippers and the
length of the teeth in general.
The period of teething is for the development of the horse
of great importance. Particularly during the time of shedding
the corner nippers, which are followed almost immediately by the
tushes, should the horse therefore be treated with the greatest
consideration. The pain during the transformation is sufficient
cause for its lack of nourishing, and effected head, etc.; and if
the animal is fed on indigestible food, used hard, exposed to
every temperature, it is not to be wondered at, that just in this
time the foundation of many ills horse is habitual to, is laid,
namely, brain affections, inflammation of the brain, staggers, etc.
It will also be well to make mention at the present opportunity
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'
THE AGE OF THE HORSE.                              143
of the fraud practiced in the teeth. As before said, the age of
the horse influences in a great measure the value of the same;
and for this reason the nippers are fraudulently tampered with,
to make the horse appear either younger or older, as the case
may be. The proceeding to age the horse lies in the pulling out
of the foaling teeth sooner than their natural transformation will
permit of, in this manner to convince the purchaser the horse
has already transfered his foaling teeth.
In most cases, the pulling out occurs with the corner teeth,
which are taken out as soon as the central nippers are exchanged,
thus making the horse appear four and one-half years old, and
given out for five years, when it is actually only three and one-
half years old. It is nevertheless an easy matter to discover
this treachery, for a close observation will show that the tem-
porary tooth has not yet put in an appearance in the hollow left
by the pulling out of the corner nipper, and which is always seen
when allowed to take a natural course, the flesh round the pulled
nipper is very much inflamed and grown over the cavity ; as a
rule the corner nippers of the lower jaw are pulled, whereas
those of the upper jaw are foremost in their transfer, and in this
wise also may the trickery be brought to light. Yet more fre-
quent is the case to make the horse appear younger than he
really is, and this is brought about by fraudulent negotiations in
horses, that on the grinding surface of the nipper, where the
natural mark has long since disappeared, a new indention is
engraved and darkened with a cauterized acid—in this way an
artificial mark is effected. The term applied to this mode is
"bishoping." This bishoping is either done on all the nippers
of the lower jaw, or on certain ones, especially on the corner
nippers, through which the horse appears to be but from seven to
eight years old. However, this open trickery is soon detected,
since the natural mark is surrounded by an elevated, white,
polished rim, while the artificial marks lack this feature, and it
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144
THE AGE OF THE HORSE.
is just herein tnat fraudulent horse-dealers have been unable to
imitate nature.
The fraud is more difficult to detect, not when new marks
are engraved, but when the depth of the natural cavity of the
teeth is increased, thus giving it a closer resemblance with a
natural mark, and in this case it is possible to pass a twelve year
old horse for one aged only seven or eight.
Nevertheless, the shape of the grinding surface, the position
of the teeth and the condition of the tushes must hereby be
taken into consideration.
DRESSING HORSES TEETH.
This is one of the most important points to look after. Your
horse gets to cribbing, tongue lalling, side pulling, frothing,
yanks his head while driving ; he cannot eat, will turn his head
side ways; he cannot grind his food; he gets poor; his food
will not digest. Now all this comes from tooth ache—rough and
decayed teeth. All horses from two years old up are liable to
have this trouble. But not all, for all teeth are not alike; some
are harder than others. They wear out the centre of the teeth
and leave the outside rough. This must be floated off. To cure
a cribber you must saw or file between the front nippers, for
they crowd, and this causes them to ache the same as ours, and
they get decayed and ulcerated teeth. They must come out.
All this requires skill, practice and instruments. Get a skilled
veterinary dentist to do it if you don't know how.
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BY-LAWS
OF
"THE NATIONAL TROTTING ASSOCIATION."
IN FORCE PROM AND AFTER FBBROARY 12, 1880.
ARTICLE I.
NAME.
Sec. 1. This Association shall be known under the name of
The National Trotting Association."
ARTICLE II.
OBJECT.
Sec. 1. This Association shall have for its object, the improve-
ment of the breed, and the development of horses, through the
promotion of the interests of the American Trotting Turf; the
prevention, detection, and punishment of frauds thereon ; and
uniformity in the government of trotting and pacing.
ARTICLE III.
OFFICERS.
Sec. 1. The officers of this Association shall consist of a
President and two Vice-Presidents (to be designated as First and
Second Vice-Presidents), and a Secretary and Treasurer. The
duties of the Secretary and Treasurer may be discharged by the
same person.
ARTICLE IV.
PRESIDENT.
Sec. 1. The President shall be ex-officio a member of the Board
(145)
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146
BY-LAWS.
of Review and District Boards, and when present shall preside
at all meetings of the Association and the Board of Review and
District Boards, and he shall have the casting vote at such
meetings ; and whenever, upon verified written petition, he
shall believe there is injustice or illegality in any penalty imposed
by an associate member, he may temporarily remove or modify
the same until a meeting of the proper Board having jurisdiction
of the matter. [See also Art. 7, Sections 3 and 7.]
ARTICLE V.
VICE-PRESIDENTS.
Sec. 1. The Vice-Presidents shall be ex-ojfficio members of the
Board of Review and District Boards ; and, in the absence of the
President, they shall preside at meetings of the Association, and
Board of Review and District Boards, which duty shall devolve
by seniority upon the first Vice-President, and, in his absence,
upon the second.
ARTICLE VI.
SECRETARY AND TREASURER.
Sec. 1. It shall be the duty of the Secretary, when present, to
act as Secretary at all meetings of the Association and Board of
Review and District Boards. He shall keep a record of all the
proceedings of such meetings, and, by order of the President,
call all meetings of the Association and Boards, and he shall
attend to all correspondence relating to the affairs of the Asso-
ciation. He shall, from time to time, publish, or furnish each
associated course with a written or printed report of the proceed-
ings of meetings of the Association and Boards, and at the close
of each year he shall compile and arrange a complete list of
persons and horses under penalty of suspension or expulsion,
and such other matters of record as he shall deem of interest
and service to the Association. Of the matter so prepared, at
least one printed copy shall be supplied to each of the associated
courses.
Sec. 2. The Treasurer shall receive and take charge of all
moneys that may belong to the Association, and make therefrom
such payments as shall have been ordered by the Committee on
Disbursements, or by the Board of Review, of which a statement
in detail shall be submitted at the end of the year or when
required b" the Board of Review.
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147
BY-LAWS.
ABTICLE VII.
BOARD OF APPEALS.
[Including Board of Review and District Boards.]
Sec. 1. The Board of Appeals shall have general management,
control, and superintendence of the affairs of this Association,
subject to the Rules, Regulations, and By-Laws. [See Sections
7 and 9.]
Sec. 2. To the Board, through the Secretary, must he addressed
in writing all charges against any member of this Association,
or other communications intended for their action.
Sec. 3. The Board shall examine all evidence of fraud, or any
other matter relating to the turf, that is brought before them,
and shall take such measures to ascertain the truth or falsity
of all charges as they shall deem necessary and proper, and they
shall pass judgment in each case ; and they shall have authority
to fine, suspend, or expel any member who shall refuse or fail to
obey the laws of this Association, or the orders of the Board ;
and any member failing to pay a fine so imposed may be sus-
pended until such fine is paid ; provided, that such fines shall
not in any single case exceed $100. And it in further provided,
that the President, upon complaint made, and after ascertainment
of the truth thereof, that a member has failed to pay premiums
won, for more than ten days, shall order such member to be
suspended until such premiums be paid or deposited with the,
treasurer of the National Association.
Sec. 4. The Board of Appeals shall consist of not more than
fifteen members, besides the President and Vice-Presidents, to
be chosen as hereinafter provided.
Sec. 5. As a part of the system established under these by-laws,
there shall be, and there are hereby created, five judicial districts,
as follows :
District No. One, to be known as the " Eastern District,"
composed of the New England States and the Dominion of
Canada, having for its place of meeting the City of Hartford,
Conn.
District No. Two, to be known as the " Atlantic District,"
to be composed of the States of New York, Pennsylvania,
Delaware, Virginia, New Jersey, Maryland, and the District of
Columbia, having for its place of meeting the City of New York.
District No. Three, to be known as the " Central District,"
composed of the States of Ohio, Indiana, West Virginia, Ken-
tucky, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, and all of the States south
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148                                         BY LAWS.
of the southern border of Virginia and Kentucky, having for its
place of meeting the City of Cincinnati, 0.
District No. Four, to be known as the " Western District,"
composed of the States of Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota,
Michigan, Iowa, and Texas, and all the Western States and
Territories not included by name in this or other districts,
having for its place of meeting the City of Chicago, 111.
District No. Five, to be known as the " Pacific District," com-
posed of the States of California, Oregon, and Nevada, having
for its place of meeting the City of San Francisco, Cal.
Sec. 6. Three members of the Board shall be chosen in each
judicial district, who shall constitute a Disteict Boaed for such
district, of which Board the President and Vice-Presidents shall
be ex-officio members.
Sec. 7. The President shall, from time to time, select one of
the three members of the Board in each judicial district to be
chairman of the Board for such district; and the five chairmen
thus chosen shall constitute a Boaed oe Review, of which the
President and Vice-Presidents shall be ex-officio members. After
a meeting of the Board of Review, and before another meeting
of that Board, the President shall again select the chairman in
each of the said five districts, changing the chairman in each
district when practicable. The President may act as referee in
any case wherein the parties thereto so request, and in such
case his decision shall be final.
Sec. 8. Each of said District Boards shall have jurisdiction on
all questions of fraud or other matters relating to the turf, aris-
ing in said district. [See Rule 26, Sec. 1, Rule 51, Sec. 4, and
Rule 52, Sec. 2.]
Sec. 9. The Board of Review shall possess the authority con-
ferred upon the Board of Appeals, and may perform any of the
offices and duties which, under the By-Laws and Rules, devolve
upon said Board of Appeals. They shall hear all appeals from
the decisions and rulings of the District Boards, and they may
hear appeals from the decisions and rulings of the judges of any
race, and of the several associate members, and they shall pass
t'udgment in each case, from which there shall be no appeal.
See Rule 26, Sec. 1, Rule 51, Sec. 4, and Rule 52, Sec. 2.]
Sec. 10. Each District Board shall meet upon the call of its
chairman, or of the President. In all meetings of a District
Board, two members, exclusive of the ex-officio members, shall
be a quorum for business.
Sec. 11. The, Board of Raview shall hold a meeting on the
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BY-LAWS.                                         149
first Tuesday of December, 1880, in the City of New York ; and
thereafter shall hold a regular meeting on the first Tuesday of
December in each year, at such place as they shall determine :
provided, that if the Board shall, at its first, or any regular
meeting, omit to determine the place of its next meeting, the
President shall designate the place. In all meetings of the
Board of Review, three members of the Board, exclusive of the
ex-ojficio members, shall constitute a quorum for business.
Special meetings of the Board of Review shall be held, when
ordered by the President.
Sec. 12. In all meetings of either District Board or the Board
of Review, notice shall be sent to the members of the Board by
the Secretary, through the mail, not less than fifteen days prior
to the meeting.
Sec. 13. All petitions, appeals, or applications to be consid-
ered by either District Board, shall be lodged with the Secre-
tary of this Association, and shall be accompanied by a payment
of $10 for costs, the costs to go to the National Association ;
but no costs shall be charged for supplemental proceedings in
the same matter. Neither shall any costs be charged for ap-
peals to, or other proceedings before, the Board of Review.
Sec. 14. Re-hearings may be granted by each District Board,
for causes which such Board shall deem sufficient, in any matter
upon which said District Board has acted, and in such cases
new evidence may be introduced : but in appeals to the Board
of Review, no new evidence shall be introduced. And in such
appeals, the parties may file briefs, and may be heard by argu-
ment in writing, and when so heard, the papers in the case may
be submitted by order of the President to the several members
pf the Board, for their action, without requiring them to
assemble at a special meeting. In any such case, if a tie shall
occur in the vote or decision of the members, the President or
one of the Vice-Presidents shall cast the deciding vote.
Sec. 15. No member of a District Board, having sat in the
hearing of a case coming before such District Board, shall be al-
lowed to vote or decide upon the same case arising in the Board
of Review.
Sec. 16. There shall be a Committee of Disbursements, con-
sisting of the President and two members of the Board of Ap-
peals, to be appointed by the President. Said committee shall
direct and audit all disbursements of moneys of the Association.
Sec. 17. The Board of Review shall have power to call a
special congress whenever by them deemed necessary. [See
Art. 15.J
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150                                         BY-LAWS.
Sec. 18. Each member of the Board of Appeals shall be en-
titled to the privilege of honorary membership on the grounds
and premises of all the associated courses. [After February,
1880, this provision will not include the privilege of the Judges'
stand.]
ARTICLE VIII.
DELEGATION.
Sec. 1. A delegation to a general congress or any Association
meeting shall consist of one person, duly authorized in writing
by the President or Secretary of their respective associations,
or proprietor or proprietors of individual courses. [See also
Art. 14.]
ARTICLE IX.
ADMISSION OF MEMBERS.
Sec. 1. All applications for admission to membership in this
Association must be made in writing, duly signed, and addressed
to the Secretary, for action of the Board of Review, who may ad-
mit or reject the applicant: provided, that in the interval be-
tween meetings of the Board the new members shall be admitted
when sanctioned by the President, but always subject to the ap-
proval or rejection of the Board at its next meeting.
ARTICLE X.
ANNUAL FEE OF MEMBERSHIP.
Sec. 1. The fee of membership shall be determined by the
Board of Review, and shall be payable on or before the first day
of April in each year.
ARTICLE XI.
FORFEITURE OF MEMBERSHIP.
Sec. 1. An association or proprietor, having once been ad-
mitted, shall continue a member upon the prompt payment of
dues for the succeeding year, unless suspended or expelled by
order of the Board of Appeals, for a violation of the Rules and
Regulations or By-Laws of this Association, or for other cause.
[See Art. 7. Sec. 3 and Sec. 9.]
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BY-LAWS.                                              151
ARTICLE XII.
DUTIES OF MEMBERS.
Sec. 1. It shall be the duty of each associate member to see
that the Rules, Regulations and By-Laws of this Association
are rigidly enforced upon their respective courses, under penalty
of suitable fines or expulsion.
Sec. 2. Members shall not allow their courses to be used for
exhibitions of a character degrading to the public standing of
the National Trotting Association, and they shall be held re-
sponsible before the Board of Appeals for any violation of the
Rules of this Association. [See Art. 7, Sec. 3 and Sec. 9.]
Sec. 3. They shall keep on file, for future reference, all letters,
entries and communications relating to their respective courses.
Sec. 4. It shall be the duty of each member to furnish the
Secretary of said National Association, within ten days of the
close of each meeting, a review containing an oificial summary of
all races upon their respective courses, said summary to contain
the date, the amount or value of the purse, match, or sweepstake,
the full terms and conditions of the race, lists of such entries
as they have received, the position of each and every horse in
each heat, the drawn, distanced, and ruled-out horses, the official
time of each and every heat, the names of the judges, and such
notes and remarks as are necessary for an understanding of the
whole.
Sec. 5. Members shall furnish to the Secretary the names of
all persons and horses that have been fined, suspended, or
expelled, together with the amount of fines and term of suspension.
They shall also furnish a list of the officers of their respective
associations or courses, with their post-office address. [See Sec.
2, of Rule 3, requiring action within one week of the meeting
when suspension is imposed, for non-payment of dues. See also
Sec. 6 of Rule 51, for further requirements regarding penalties.]
ARTICLE XIII.
CLERK OF THE COURSE.
Sec. 1. It shall be the duty of each member to provide the
services of a competent person to assist the judges in each and
every race upon their respective courses, who shall be styled the
Clerk of the Course.
Sec. 2. He may, at the request of the judges, assist in weighing
riders or drivers, assigning the position of horses before the race,
or other similar duties, and shall keep a book in which shall be
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152
BY-LAWS.
recorded a description of the dress or colors worn by each rider
or driver, and the weight carried ; he shall note the time when
a heat is finished, and shall notify the judges, or ring the bell,
at the expiration of the time allowed between heats ; he may
assist the judges in placing the horses at the finish of the heat.
Sec. 3. He shall record, in a book to be kept for that purpose,
an account of every race, in the following form, to wit: First,
all horses entered and the names of the riders or drivers ; next,
the starting horses and the positions assigned them ; next, a
record of each heat, giving the position of each horse at the
finish ; then, the official time of each heat, and, at the end, an
official summary of the race, giving the drawn, distanced, and
ruled-out horses, if any there be. He shall record all protests,
fines, penalties, and appeals. This book shall be signed by the
judges, and shall constitute the official record. [See also Rule
43, Sec. 1.J
ARTICLE XIV.
MEETINGS.
Sec. 1. There shall be a meeting, or Congress of the members
of this Association, biennially, on the second Wednesday in
February, at such place as may be chosen at the meeting next
preceding ; a written or printed notice of each meeting shall be
mailed, postage paid, and addressed by the Secretary to each
member, at least thirty days prior to such meeting. [See also
Art. 15, Sec. l.J
Sec. 2. Each member shall be entitled to one vote, and may
vote by a delegate duly authorized, who shall have the power of
substitution. [See also Art. 8.]
ARTICLE XV.
SPECIAL MEETINGS.
Sec. 1. Special meetings of the Association shall be called by
the Secretary whenever requested by the Board of Review, or in
writing by a majority of the members, and fifteen days' notice
shall be given by the Secretary to each member of the time and
place of holding any special meeting, in the manner provided
for notice of biennial meetings. [See Art. 14, Sec. 1.]
Sec. 2. One-fourth of the members shall be represented to
constitute a quorum for the transaction of business in any
special meeting. [See also Art. 8.]
-ocr page 157-
153
BY.LAWS.
ARTICLE XVI.
ELECTION" OF OFFICEKS.
Sec. 1. The President, Vice-Presidents, and Board of Appeals
shall be chosen at each biennial meeting of the Association, and
shall retain their respective offices until their successors are
appointed.
Sec. 2. In case of the resignation or death of any of their
members, the Board of Appeals shall have power to fill vacancies
until the next election. [See Art. 7, Sec. 9.]
Sec. 3. The Secretary and Treasurer shall be elected by the
Board of Review, and he or they shall hold office until a suc-
cessor is appointed.
ARTICLE XVII.
FINES.
Sec. 1. All fines shall revert to the National Trotting Asso-
ciation, and shall, upon collection, be immediately paid to the
Treasurer. And no fine shall be removed or modified unless by
order of the Board of Review.
Sec. 2. Any member failing to report and make returns for
fines collected shall be liable to a fine to be imposed by the Board
of Review. [See Rule 49 ; also Rule 52, Sections 1 and 3.]
ARTICLE XVIII.
LENGTH OF TRACKS.
Sec. 1. All members of this Association shall furnish the Secre-
retary with the statement of a competent civil engineer, who shall
certify, under oath, the exact distance of their respective tracks,
measured just three feet from the pole—that is to say, from the
inside fence or ditch. These certificates shall be endorsed by
the proper officer of the course designated, and shall be placed
upon the records of this Association.
ARTICLE XIX.
BY-LAWS.
Sec. 1. Each Association may be governed by its own By-
laws, provided they do not conflict with these, or with the Rules
and Regulations adopted by this Association.
-ocr page 158-
154
BY-LA1VS.
ARTICLE XX.
STJPEKVISORS.
Sec. 1. The President may employ a trusty man, or men, to
visit any trotting meeting or-meetings to learn if the Rules of
this Assooiation are properly observed, and to take the time of
the horses in any heat or heats trotted or paced at such meeting.
Such supervisor or supervisors shall have authority to inspect
the records and the entries in possession of any member when
so directed by the President. The report of such supervisor or
supervisors as to said matters shall be received by the Board of
Review as evidence in any investigation by the Board relating
thereto.
Sec. 2. Any member or the judges of any member, or any
party, thus reported guilty of violating said Rules, shall be by
the President reported to said Board.
A true copy from record, February 12, 1880.
Attest:
JNO. J. VAIL,
Secretary.
-ocr page 159-
,
' 1
RULES AND REGULATIONS'
OF
"THE NATIONAL TROTTING ASSOCIATION."
[TO GOVERN ALL ENGAGEMENTS AND PERFORMANCES OVER
THE ASSOCIATED COTJRSES.]
ENACTED BY THE NATIONAL TROTTING ASSOCIATION AT THE CONGRESS HELD IN THE
CITY OF NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 12, 1880.
Eule 1.—Mandate.
Sec. 1. All trotting and pacing engagements and performances
over the several courses which are, or shall be, represented by
membership in " The National Trotting Association," and
each and every person who shall in any way be concerned or
employed therein, as well as all associations and proprietors
themselves who are or shall become members of said National
Association, shall be governed by the following rules from and
after February 12,1880.
Rule 2.—Entries.
Sec. 1. All entries must be made in writing, signed by the
person making the same, or by some one authorized in his be-
half ; and, within the time appointed for closing, they must be
addressed and forwarded according to the published conditions,
or deposited with the Secretary or other person authorized to
receive them.
Sec. 2. All entries not actually received by the member as
aforesaid, at the hour of closing, shall be ineligible, except en-
tries by registered letter bearing postmark not later than the
day of closing, or entries notified by telegraph, the telegram to
be actually received at the office of sending at or before the hour
/155)
-ocr page 160-
156                          BULKS AND REGULATIONS.
of closing, such telegram to state the color, sex and name of the
horse, and the class to be entered, also to give the name and
res^ence of the party making the entry.
Ao. 3. The hour for closing the entries for all purses or
premiums offered by any of the associated courses shall be 11
oWock p. M., except for stakes and purses for horses to be named
at the post, the entries to which shall close at the hour fixed
for the race.
Sec. 4. Nominations for sweepstakes shall not be privileged
to compete unless the payments have been made as required by
the conditions. And nominations for premiums may be rejected
when not accompanied by the entrance money.
Sec. 5. It shall be the duty of the Secretary, or other person
authorized, to prepare the list of entries for publication, com-
prising all information necessary for the enlightenment of the
general public and parties to the race.
Rule 3.—Entrance Pee.
Sec. 1. The entrance fee shall be 10 per cent, of the purse,
unless otherwise specified ; and any person failing to pay his en-
trance dues, or in stake races his declaration, forfeit, or entrance,
may, together with his horse or#horses, be suspended until they
are paid in full, which shall be with an addition of 10 per cent,
penalty, and interest at 7 per cent, pter annum until paid—the
penalty to go to the National Association. [See Rule 50 ; also
Rule 51, Sec. 7 ; and Rule 52, Sec. 3.]
Sec. 2. After February 9, 1876, no suspension for non-pay-
ment of dues as aforesaid shall be lawful unless ordered within
one week of the close of the meeting, and no suspension shall
be imposed for non-payment of such dues contracted in a class
wherein the horse was permitted to start.
Sec. 3. All entries shall be governed by the published con-
ditions, and shall be bound for the entrance fee regardless of
any proposed deviation from such published conditions, and any
member who shall make a collusive arrangement to allow a
nominator privileges differing from those allowed by the terms
of the race to other entries in the same class, shall, upon satis-
factory evidence thereof produced to the Board of Review, be
held to forfeit to the National Association 50 per cent, of the
amount of the purse in which such collusive arrangement was
made, one-half of such forfeit to go to the informant upon re-
covery of the same, and the member, upon a second conviction
of like character, shall be expelled.
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RULES AND KEGULATIONS.                           157
Rule 4.—How Many to Enter.
Sec. 1. In all purses three or more entries are required, and
two to start, unless otherwise specified.
Rule 5.—Horses to be Eligible when Entries Close.
Sec. 1. A horse shall not be eligible to start in any race that
has beaten the time advertised prior to the closing of the entries
for the race in which he is entered, unless otherwise specified in
the published conditions. Fractions of a second shall be con-
sidered in determining the time made, and shall be entered in
the record, but they shall not operate as a bar in making en-
tries ; that is, a horse gaining a record of 2.29£ shall remain
eligible in the 2.30 class.
Sec. 2. A horse shall not be eligible if the time specified has
been beaten by him at a greater distance ; that is, a horse hav-
ing made two miles in five minutes is eligible for a 2.30 race,
but not eligible for a race limited to horses of a slower class
than that.
Rule 6.—Description and Name of Each Horse Required.
Sec. 1. An accurate and sufficient description of each entry
will be required, such as shall identify the animal, and shall em-
brace the following particulars, to wit:
[color.]
Sec. 2. The color shall always be given, and when necessary
to identification, the marks shall be stated.
[sex.]
Sec. 3. It shall be distinctly stated whether the entry be a
stallion, mare, or gelding, and the names of the sire and dam if
known shall be given in all cases, and when unknown it shall
be so stated in the entry. If this requirement as to pedigree is
not complied with, the entry may be rejected; and when the
pedigree is given, it shall be stated by the member with the pub-
lication of the entry.
[name of horse.]
Sec. 4. Every horse shall be named, and the name correctly
and plainly written in the entry ; and after entering or trotting
in a public race such name shall not be changed without pro-
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168
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
curing a record thereof to be made in the office of the Secretary
of The Nabional Trotting Association, for which there shall be
paid a recording fee of $50, the fee to go to said National Asso-
ciation. For each violation of this requirement a fine of $100
shall be imposed^ together with suspension of the horse until
paid, and no horse shall be thus recorded by a name that has
been recorded for another horse.
Sec. 5. If a horse has ever trotted in a public race, the last
name under which he or she trotted shall be given with the
entry; and if the name has been changed within two years, each
name he or she has borne during that time must be given; and
if any horse without a name has ever trotted in a public race,
mention must be made in the entry of a sufficient number of
his or her most recent performances, to enable interested par-
ties to identify the animal: provided, that it shall not be neces-
sary to furnish any one association or proprietor with the same
record of performances the second time during one season.
Sec. 6. In entries and nominations made after 1875, the words
"no name " shall not be received as a name; neither shall such
descriptive words as " bay horse^' " gray mare," " unknown,"
etc., be allowed as names, under penalty of a fine not to exceed
the entrance-fee, to be imposed on the member who violates
this restriction. But this restriction shall not apply to any
horse having obtained a record previous to 1876 under the name
of " Unknown."
Sec. 7. A horse having once been named, shaM not afterward
start in a race on any associate course, without a name nor
under a different name, unless the foregoing requirements have
been complied with.
[double teams.]
Sec. 8. In all double-team races the entry must contain the
name and description of each horse, in the manner provided for
entry of single horses.
Eule 7.—Identification.          .
Sec. 1. The residence and post-office address, in full, of the
person or persons in whose name an entry is made must always
be given, and if the name or residence be falsely stated, for the
purpose of deception, the offender shall be punished by a fine
not to exceed $100, or by suspension or expulsion.
Sec. 2. If the nominator is not the owner, then the name
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159
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
and residence of the owner or owners must also be stated with
the nomination.
Sec. 3. Whenever the nominator is personally unknown to
the officers of the course, if required, or if his entry is protested,
he shall establish his identity, and that of his* horse, by suffic-
ient references or evidence; and if the Judges are not satisfied
in regard to said identity, before or after the start, all pools and
bets on said horse shall be declared off, and this shall be publicly
announced from the stand; and if the fdentity of the horse
shall not be established within twenty-one days he shall be
barred from winning, and any premium which might be
awarded said horse which is not distributable under the rules to
another horse in the race shall revert to the National Trotting
Association. [See Rule 16, Sec. 8.]
Rule 8.—Entries that Cannot Start.
Sec. 1. As many horses may be entered by one party, or as
many horses trained in the same stable as may be desired, but
only one that has been owned or controlled wholly or partly by
the same person or persons, or trained in the same stable within
ten days preceding the race, can start in any race of heats.
Rube 9.—No Purse for a "Walk Over."
Sec. 1. No purse will be awarded for a " walk over," but in
cases where only one of the horses entered for a purse shall
appear on the course, he shall be entitled to his own entrance
money and to one-half of the entrance money received from the
other entries for said purse. The restriction herein as to " walk
over," shall not apply to stakes or forfeits.
Rule 10.—In Case of Death, Engagements Void.
Sec. 1. All engagements, including obligations for entrance
fees, shall be void upon the decease of either party or horse, so
far as they shall affect the deceased party or horse : but forfeits,
also matches made " play or pay," shall not be affected by the
death of a horse.
Rule 11.—Match Races.
Sec. 1. In all match races these rules shall govern, unless the
contrary be expressly stipulated and assented to by the club,
association, or proprietor of the course over which the race is to
come off.
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160
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Rule 12.—When Matches Become "Plat or Pat."
Sec. 1. In all matches made to come off over any of the
associate courses, the parties shall place the amount of the match
in the hands of the stakeholder one day before the event (omit-
ting Sunday) is to come off, at such time and place as the club,
association, or proprietor, upon application, may determine, and
tihe race shall then become play or pay."
Rule 13.—Purse or Stakes Wrongfullt Obtained.
Sec. 1. A person obtaining a purse or stake through fraud or
•error, shall return it to the Treasurer of the National Trotting
Association, if demanded within one year, by the member or by
order of the Board of Appeals, or he shall be punished as fol-
lows : He, together with the parties implicated in the wrong,
and the horse or horses, shall be suspended until such demand
is complied with, and such purse or stake shall be awarded to
the party justly entitled to the same.
Rule 14.—Fraudulent Entries- or Meddling with Horses.
Sec. 1.—Any person found guilty of dosing or tampering with
any horse, or of making a fraudulent entry of any horse, or of
disguising a horse with intent to conceal his identity, or being
in any way concerned in such a transaction, shall be expelled.
Sec. 2. Any horse that shall have been painted or disguised,
to represent another or a different horse, or shall have been
entered in a purse in which he does not belong, shall forfeit the
entrance money and be expelled.
Rule 15.—Reward.
■
Sec. 1. A reward of $50 will be paid to the person who shall
first give information leading to the detection and conviction
of any fraudulent entry and of the parties thereto, to be paid
out of the funds of the National Trotting Association by the
Treasurer, upon the decision and order of the Board of Review :
provided, that this shall not be construed to extend protection
to courses outside of this Association.
Rule 16.—Protests.                    >
Sec. 1. Protests may be made verbally before or during a race,
and shall be reduced to writing, and shall contain at least one
Kpecific charge, and when required, a statement of the nature of
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
the evidence upon which they are based, and they shall be filed
with the judges, association, or proprietor, before the close of
the meeting ; and the protesting party shall be allowed to file
additional charges with evidence. [See Rule 7, Sec. 3.]
Sec. 2. The Judges shall in every case of protest demand that
the rider or driver, and the owner or owners, if present, shall
immediately testify under oath, in the manner hereinafter pro-
vided ; and in case of their refusal to do so, the horse shall not
be allowed thereupon to start or continue in that race, but shall
be considered and declared ruled out, with forfeit of entrance
money.
Sec. 3. But if the parties do comply, and take the oath as
herein required, unless the Judges find conclusive evidence to
warrant excluding the horse, they shall allow him to start or
continue in the race under protest, and the premium, if any is
won by that horse, shall be retained a sufficient length of time
(say three weeks) to allow the parties interested a chance to
sustain the allegations of the protest, or to furnish information
which shall warrant an investigation of the matter by the
associate member, or the Board of Appeals : provided, that where
no action as aforesaid has been taken to sustain a protest, or to
furnish information, during three weeks, the associate member
may proceed as if such protest has not been made.
Sec. 4. In any heat which such protested horse shall win,
the Judges shall waive the application of a distance as to all
other horses, except for " fouls " defined in Rule 48.
Sec. 5. When a protest is presented before or during a race,
and the parties refuse to make the prescribed oath, if the Judges
believe the refusal is designed to favor a fraud, they may require
the horse under protest to start or continue in the race.
Sec. 6. Any person found guilty of protesting a horse falsely
and without cause, or merely with intent to embarass a race,
shall be punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension
or expulsion.
Sec. 7. When a protest has been duly made, or any information
lodged with the Judges in support of a protest, alleging an
improper entry or any act prohibited or punishable under these
rules, the same shall not be withdrawn or surrendered before
the expiration of three weeks, without the approbation of the
association or proprietor of the course upon which such protest
or information was produced ; and if any association or proprietor
shall permit such a withdrawal of protest or information, with
a corrupt motive to favor any party who shall be affected by
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
the same, the association or proprietor so permitting, if convicted
thereof by the Board of Appeals, shall be expelled from all
connection with The National Trotting Association. [See
By-laws, Art. 7, Sec. 9.]
Sec. 8. Associations or proprietors shall be warranted in
withholding the premium of any horse, during the time herein
mentioned, without any formal protest, if before it is paid they
shall receive information in their judgment tending to establish
fraud, the premiums withheld under this rule to be forthwith
sent to the Treasurer of said National Association and by him
to be retained, awaiting' the result of an investigation by the
member or by the Board of Appeals. [See Rule 7, Sec. 3.]
Sec. 9. The oath required in answer to protest shall be in the
following form, to wit:
I......................of..................in the County
of.......................State of...................on oath
depose and say that I am the........................of the
................called....................the same entered
in a purse for horses that have never trotted better than
.................minutes and • .*....................seconds,
to be trotted this day on this course, and the same that has
been protested, and to which protest this affidavit is in answer,
hereby declare and affirm that to the.best of my knowledge and
belief said before-mentioned horse is eligible to start or compete
in the race aforesaid ; and that I fully believe all the provisions
and conditions required in the rules and regulations for the
government of trials of speed over this course were fully and
honestly complied with in making the entry aforesaid.
Given under my hand at............this................
day of..............A.D. 188..
Subscribed and sworn to before me, this..................
day of..............A.D. 188..
Justice of the Peace.
[Note.—In the absence of a Justice of the Peace, if this oath
be administered by an officer of the association, or one of the
Judges of the race, it will be considered sufficient for the pur-
poses of the National Association.]
Rule 17.—When Horses Shall Not be Drawn.
Sec. 1. No horse shall be drawn except by permission of the
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Judges of the race, unless at or before seven o'clock p. m. of
the day preceding the race (omitting Sunday), the proper party
shall have lodged with the President, Secretary, or proprietor of
the course, a written notice, or notice by telegraph, of his
intention not to start, after which notice the horse so drawn
shall be ineligible to start in the race. For a violation of the
requirement herein, a fine not to exceed $100, or suspension or
expulsion shall be imposed, the penalty to apply to both the
horse and the party who violates the regulation.
Sec. 2. Parties having two or more entries in one race shall
elect which they will not start, and notify their decision at the
same time, in the same manner, and under the same penalty as
provided above.
Rule 18.—Power op Postponement.
Sec. 1. In case of unfavorable weather, or other unavoidable
cause, each association or proprietor shall have power to postpone
to the next fair day and good track (omitting Sunday) all purses
or sweepstakes, or any race to which they have contributed
money, upon giving notice thereof; and they may exercise this
power before or after the race has commenced. [See also Rule
19.]
Rule 19.—No Trotting Apter Dark.
Sec. 1. No heat shall be trotted when it is so dark that the
gait of the horses cannot be plainly seen by the Judges from the
stand, but all such races shall be continued by the Judges to the
next fair day (omitting Sunday), at such hour as they shall
designate.
Sec. 2. In all purses, matches, and stakes, the above rule shall
govern, unless otherwise especially agreed between the parties
and the association or proprietors.
Rule 20.—Weights and Weighing.
Sec. 1. Every horse starting for purse, sweepstake, or match,
in any trotting or pacing race, shall carry, if to wagon or sulky,
150 lbs., exclusive of harness ; and if under the saddle, 145 lbs.,
the saddle and whip only to be weighed with the rider.
Sec. 2. Riders and drivers shall weigh in the presence of one
or more of the Judges previous to starting for any race, and
after each heat shall come to the starting stand, and not dismount
or leave their vehicles without permission of the Judges, and
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164                           RULES AND REGULATIONS.
those who are deficient in bodily weight shall be re-weighed
after each heat. Any rider or driver not bringing in his required
weight shall be distanced, unless such decision shall be deemed
to favor a fraud. But a rider or driver thrown or taken by force
from his horse or vehicle, after having passed the winning-post,
shall not be considered as having dismounted without permission
of the Judges, and if disabled may be carried to the Judges'
stand to be weighed, and the Judges may take the circumstances
into consideration and decide accordingly. And the riders or
drivers who shall carry during the heat and bring home with
them the weights which have been approved or announced
correct and proper by the Judges, shall be subject to no penalty
for light weight in that heat: provided, the Judges are satisfied
the mistake or fault was their own, and that there has been no
deception on the part of the rider or driver who shall be deficient
in weight; but all parties shall thereafter carry the required
weight.
Rule 21.—Handicaps and Miscellaneous Weights.
Sec. 1. In matches or handicaps, where extra or lesser weights
are to be carried, the Judges shall carefully examine and ascer-
tain before starting, whether the riders, drivers, or vehicles are
of such weights as have been agreed upon or required by the
match or handicap, and thereafter the riders and drivers shall be
subject to the same penalties and conditions as if they were to
carry the weights prescribed by the rules
Rule 22.—When Riders and Drivers are Over-Weight.
Sec. 1. If the bodily weight of any rider or driver shall be
found to exceed that which is prescribed in the rules, or that
which is required by the conditions of the race, and the over-
weight shall exceed twenty pounds, it shall be announced from
the stand before the heat; and the Judges shall have power, if
in their belief such extra weight was imposed on the horse for
an improper or fraudulent purpose, to substitute another rider
or driver of suitable weight; and if they believe the horse has
been prejudiced in the race by such overweight, he shall not be
allowed to start again or continue in the race. [See also Rule
28. Sec. 5.J
Sec. 2. A horse prevented by this rule from continuing in the
race shall not be distanced, but ruled out.
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Kule 23.—Length of Whips.
Seo. 1. Riders and drivers will be allowed whips not to exceed
the following lengths : For saddle horses, 2 ft. 10 in.; sulkies,
4 ft. 8 in.; wagons, 5ft. 10 in.; double teams,8 ft. 6 in.; tandem
teams and four-in-hand, unlimited ; snappers, not longer than
three inches, will be allowed in addition to the foregoing meas-
urement.
Rule 24.—Judges' Stand.
Sec. 1. None but the Judges of the race in progress, and their
assistants, shall be allowed in the Judges' stand during the
pendency of a heat.
Rule 25.—Selection of Judges.
Sec. 1. In every exhibition or race, over any course repre-
sented in the National Trotting Association, each course for
itself, through the proprietor or association controlling the
same, shall choose or authorize the selection of three (3) compe-
tent Judges, for the day or race, who shall understand the rules
of the said National Association, and shall rigidly enforce the
same ; and all their decisions shall be subject to and in con-
formity with said rules. [See also Art. 13 of By-Laws.]
Sec. 2. Any person who at the time is under penalty of sus-
pension or expulsion, or who has any interest in, or any bet de-
pendent upon the result of a race, or has any interest in either
of the horses engaged therein, shall thereby be disqualified and
restricted from acting as a Judge in that race. And if any per-
son who is thus disqualified shall intentionally and deceptively
violate this restriction, he shall, upon conviction thereof by the
Board of Appeals, be adjudged guilty of a dishonorable act, for
which he shall be expelled from every course represented in said
National Association.
Rule 26.—Authority of Judges.
[See also Rule 28.]
Sec. 1. The Judges of the day or race shall have authority,
while presiding, to appoint Distance and Patrol Judges and
Timers; to inflict fines and penalties, as prescribed by these
rules ; to determine all questions of fact relating to the race over
which they preside ; to decide respecting any matters of differ-
ence between parties to the race, or any contingent matter
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
which shall arise, such as are not otherwise provided for in these
rules ; and they may declare pools and bets " off" in case of
fraud, no appeal to be allowed from their decision in that respect,
but all their decisions shall be in strict conformity with the
rules, or with the principles thereof. They shall have control
over the horses about to start, and the riders or drivers and as-
sistants of the horses, and, in the absence of other provision in
these rules, they shall have authority to punish by a fine not
exceeding $100, or by suspension or expulsion, any such person
who shall fail to obey their orders or the rules. [See Rule 28 ;
and Rule 52, Sec. 1 and Sec. 2.]
Rule 27.—Distance and Patrol Judges.
Sec. 1. In all races of heats there shall be a Distance Judge
appointed by the Judges of the race, or by those in authority,
who shall remain in the distance-stand during the heats, and
immediately after each heat shall repair to the Judges' stand
and report to the Judges the horse or horses that are distanced,
and all foul or improper conduct, if any has occurred under his
observation.
Sec. 2. Patrol Judges may be similarly appointed, and it shall
be their duty to repair in like manner to the Judges' stand, and
report all foul or improper conduct, if any has occurred under
their observation.
Rule 28.—Powers and Duties of Judges.
[See also Rule 26.]
Sec. 1. The Judges shall be in the stand fifteen minutes before
the time for starting the race ; they shall weigh the riders or
drivers, and determine the positions of the horses, and inform
each rider or driver of his place, before starting ; they may re-
quire the riders and drivers to be properly dressed ; they shall
be prepared to take the time of each heat in the race, and they
may appoint some suitable person or persons to assist them in
that respect, and the time so taken shall be recorded and an-
nounced in conformity with these rules. [See also Rules 39 and
40, and Art. 13 of By-Laws.]
Sec. 2. The Judges shall ring the bell, or give other notice,
ten minutes previous to the time announced for the race or heat
to come off, which shall be notice to all parties to prepare for
the race or heat at the appointed time, when all the horses must
appear at the stand, ready for the race or heat, and any rider or
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
driver failing to obey this summons may be punished by a fine
not exceeding $ 100, or his horse may be ruled out by the Judges
and considered drawn ; but in all stakes and matches a failure to
appear promptly at the appointed time shall render the delin-
quent party liable to forfeit.
Sec. 3. The result of a heat shall not be announced until the
Judges are satisfied as to the weights of the riders or drivers,
and sufficient time has elapsed to receive the reports of the Dis-
tance and Patrol Judges.
Sec. 4. The Judges shall not notice or consider complaints of
foul from any person or persons, except the Distance and Patrol
Judges appointed by themselves or by those in authority, and
from owners, riders, or drivers in the race. [See also Rule 48.]
Sec. 5. If the Judges believe that a horse is being or has been
" pulled," or has been ridden or driven in other respects im-
properly, with a design to prevent his winning a heat which he
was evidently able to win, and that such act was done on the
part of the rider or driver for the purpose of throwing the race,
or to perpetrate or aid a fraud, they shall have power to substi-
tute a competent and reliable rider or driver for the remainder
of the race, who shail be paid a reasonable compensation for his
services, but not to exceed $50, which shall be paid by the mem-
ber, and the member may retain the amount paid from the purse,
if any, which said substitute driver may win ; and any profes-
sional rider or driver who, without good and sufficient reason,
refuses to be so substituted, may be fined, suspended, or expelled,
by order of the Judges and upon approval of the Board of Ap-
peals ; and the Judges may declare such heat void, if it be a
deciding heat of the race ; and, if the result and circumstances
of the race shall confirm their belief, the rider or driver so re-
moved shall be expelled by the Judges. And if the owner or
person or persons controlling the offending horse shall be a
party or parties to such fraud, he or they, together with the
horse, shall be punished by expulsion. [See also Rules 22
and 48.]
Rule 29.—Starting and Keeping Positions.
Sec. 1. No rider or driver shall cause unnecessary delay after
the horses are called up, either by neglecting tq prepare for the
race in time, or by failing to come for the word, or otherwise;
and in scoring, if the word is not given, all the horses in the
race shall immediately turn, at the tap of the bell or other sig-
nal given, and jog back for a fresh start. But there shall be
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168                              RULES AND REGULATIONS.
no recall after the starting word or signal has been given, and
that the horses shall be deemed to have started in the race when
the word "ffo" is given for the first heat; provided, however,
that if the Judges shall through any error give signal of recall,
after having given the word, Distance shall be waived in that
heat, except for foul riding or driving.
Sec. 2. The Judges shall, after the first scoring, choose one
of the contending horses (the pcle horse being selected, if
deemed suitable), to score by. And no driver shall wilfully
come up in advance of said horse, nor shall he wilfully hold
back, under penalty of a fine, which shall be imposed and col-
lected at once.
Sec. 3. No driver shall be allowed to sponge out his horse
or horses oftener than once in five times scoring.
Sec. 4. If these requirements are not complied with on the
part of any rider or driver, the Judges may not only start the
race, or give the word without regard to the absence or position
of the offending party or parties, but the offender may be pun-
ished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension not to
exceed one year.
Sec. 5. In all cases, the starting word or signal shall be given
from the Judges' stand, and in no instance shall a standing
start be given.
Sec. 6. No warning shall be necessary on the part of the
Judges before inflicting fines or penalties for a violation of any
of the provisions of this rule.
Sec. 7. The horse winning a heat shall take the pole (or in-
side position) the succeeding heat, and all others shall take their
positions in the order assigned them in judging the last heat.
When two or more horses shall make a dead heat, the horses
shall start for the succeeding heat in the same positions with
reference to the pole that they occupied at the finish of the dead
heat.
Sec. 8. In coming out on the homestretch the foremost horse
or horses shall keep the positions first selected, or be liable to
be distanced; and the hindmost horse or horses, when there is
sufficient room to pass on the inside or anywhere on the home-
stretch, without interfering with others, shall be allowed to do
so, and any party interfering to prevent him or them shall be
distanced.
Sec. 9. If a horse, in attempting to pass another on the
homestretch, should at any time cross or swerve, so as to im-
pede the progress of a horse behind him, he shall not be enti-
tled to win that heat.
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RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Sec. 10. Although a leading horse is entitled to any part of
the track, except after selecting his position on the homestretch,
he shall not change from the right to the left, or from the
inner to the outer side of the track, during any part of the
race, when another horse is so near him that in altering his
position he compels the horse behind him to shorten his stride,
or causes the rider or driver of such other horse to pull him out
of his stride; neither shall any horse, rider, or driver cross,
jostle, or strike another horse, rider, or driver, nor swerve or do
any other thing that impedes the progress of another horse;
nor shall any horse, in passing a leading horse, take the track
of the other horse so soon after getting the lead as to cause the
horse passed to shorten his stride.
Sec. 11. In any heat wherein there shall be a violation of any
of these restrictions, the offending horse shall not be entitled
to win the heat, and he shall be placed behind all other horses
in that heat. And if the impropriety was intentional on the
part of the rider or driver, the offending horse may be dis-
tanced, and the rider or driver shall be suspended or expelled.
[See Sections 8, 9 and 10; also Rule 48.]
Rule 30.—Horse Breaking.
Sec. 1. When any horse or horses break from their gait in
trotting or pacing, their riders or drivers shall at once pull
them to the gait in which they were to go the race, and any
party failing to comply with this requirement, if he come out
ahead, shall loose the heat, and the next best horse shall win
the heat; and whether such breaking horse come out ahead or
not, all other horses shall be placed ahead of him in that heat,
and the Judges shall have discretionary power to distance the
offending horse or horses, and the rider or driver may be pun-
ished by a fine not to exceed $100, or by suspension not exceed-
ing one year.
Sec. 2. Should the rider or driver comply with this require-
ment, and the horse should gain by a break, twice the distance
so gained shall be taken from him at the coming out; but this
provision must not be so construed as to shield any trotting
or pacing horse from punishment for running.
Sec. 3. In case of any horse (in a trotting race) repeatedly
breaking, or running, or pacing, while another horse is trotting,
the Judges shall punish the horse so breaking, running, or
pacing, by placing him last in the heat.
Sec. i. To assist in determining the matters contained in
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BULKS AND REGULATIONS.
Sections 1, 2 and 3, it shall be the duty of one of the Judges to
call out during the progress of the race every break made,
designating by colors or name the horse making it and the
character of the break, and a Judge or assistant shall at once
note the fact in writing.
Sec. 5. A horse breaking at or near the score shall be subject
to the same penalty as if he broke on any other part of the
track.
Rule 31.—Relative to Heats and Horses Eligible
to Start.
Sec. 1. In heats one, two, three, or four miles, a horse not
winning one heat in three shall not start for a fourth, unless
such horse shall have made a dead heat. In heats best three in
five, a horse not winning a heat in the first five shall not start
for a sixth, unless said horse shall have made a dead heat, but
horses so ruled out shall have a right to a share of the purse or ?
premium, according to their rank at the close of their last heat.
And where ten or more horses start in a race, every horse
not distanced shall have the right to compete until the race is
completed—subject, however, to all other penalties in these
rules.
Rule 32.—Dead Heats.
Sec. 1. A dead heat shall be counted in the race, and shall be
considered a heat which is undecided only as between the hor ses
making it, and it shall be considered a heat that is lost by all
the other horses contending therein ; and the time made in a
dead heat shall constitute a record or bar for each horse making
such dead heat. [See also Rule 40, Sec. 2.]
Sec. 2. Whenever each of the horses making a dead heat would
have been entitled to terminate the race had he won said dead
heat, they only shall start again.
Sec. 3. A horse prevented from starting by this rule shall not
be distanced, but ruled out, and shall be entitled to a share of
the purse or premium according to his rank at the close of his
last heat.
Rule 33.—Time Between Heats.
Sec. 1. The time between heats shall be twenty minutes for
mile heats ; and for mile heats best three in five, twenty-five
minutes ; and for two-mile heats, thirty minutes ; and for three-
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RULES AND REGULATIONS
mile heats, thirty-five minutes ; and should there be a race of
four-mile heats, the time shall be forty minutes.
Sec. 2. Not more than two races shall be " sandwiched " in
the performance on one day, but when one race of the two has
been finished, another may be called on. And when races are
" sandwiched," the first race started shall be trotted out on time
as far as practicable.
Sec. 3. After the first heat the horses shall be called five
minutes prior to the time of starting.
Rule 34.—Time Allowed in Case of Accidents.
Sec. 1. In case of accidents, ten minutes shall be allowed ;
but the Judges may allow more time when deemed necessary
and proper.
Rule 35.—Collision and Break-Down.
Sec. 1. In case of collision and break-down, the party causing
the same, whether wilfully or otherwise, may be distanced ; and
if the Judges find the collision was intentional or to aid fraud,
the driver in fault shall be forthwith suspended or expelled, and
his horse may be distanced ; but if necessary to defeat fraud,
the Judges shall direct the offending horse to start again.
Sec. 2. No horse but the offending one shall be distanced in
such a heat, except for foul driving.
Sec. 3. The Judges in a concluding heat, finding that a col-
lision involved a fraudulent object, may declare that heat void.
[See also Rule 48.]
Rule 36.—Placing Horses.
Sec. 1. A horse must win a majority of the heats which are
required by the conditions of the race to be entitled to the purse
or stake ; but if a horse shall have distanced all competitors in
one heat, the race will then be concluded, and such horse shall
receive the entire purse and stakes contended for. [See Rule
37, Sec. 3.1
Sec. 2. When more than one horse remains in the race en-
titled to be placed at the finish of the last heat, the second best
horse shall receive the second premium, if there be any ; and if
there be any third or fourth premium, etc., for which no horse
has won and maintained a specific place, the same shall go to
the winner ; provided, that the number of premiums awarded
shall not exceed the number of horses which started in the race.
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172                              RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Sec. 3. The foregoing provisions shall always apply, in such
cases, unless otherwise stated in the published conditions of the
race.
Sec. 4. In deciding the rank of horses other than the winner,
as to second, third and fourth places, etc., to be assigned among
such as remain in the race entitled to be placed at the conclusion
of the last heat thereof, the several positions which have been
assigned to each horse so contending shall be considered as to
every heat in the race—that is, horses having won two heats,
better than those winning one ; a horse that has won a heat,
better than a horse only making a dead heat; a horse winning
one or two heats and making a dead heat, better than one win-
ning an equal number of heats but not making a dead heat; a
horse winning a heat or making a dead heat and not distanced
in the race, better than a horse that has not won a heat or made
a dead heat ; a horse that has been placed " second " one heat,
better than a horse that has been placed " third " any number
of heats.
Sec. 5. When two or more horses appear equal in rank in the
summary of the race, they shall share equally in the award of
premiums won by them.
Sec. 6. In case these provisions shall not give a specific decis-
ion as to second and third money, etc., the Judges of the race
are to make the awards according to their best judgment, but in
conformity with the principles of this rule.
Rule 37.—Distances.
Sec. 1. In races of mile heats, 80 yards shall be a distance. In
races of two-mile heats, 150 yards shall be a distance. In races
of three-mile heats, 220 yards shall be a distance. In races of
mile heats, best three in five, 100 yards shall be a distance. In
heats of not over one mile, wherein eight or more horses con-
tend, the distance shall be increased one half ; but in any heat
wherein the number of starters shall be reduced to less than
eight, the ordinary distance shall be restored.
Sec. 2. All horses whose heads have not reached the distance-
stand as soon as the leading horse arrives at the winning-post
shall be declared distanced, except in cases otherwise provided
for, or the punishment of the leading horse by setting him back
for running, when it shall be left to the discretion of the Judges.
[See Rule 16, Sec. 4 ; Rule 29, Sec. 1 ; Rule 35, Sec. 2 ; and
Rule 40, Sec. 2. J
Sec. 3. A distanced horse is out of the race, and if in any heat
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RULES AXD REGULATIONS.                              173
one horse shall distance all competitors, the race will then be
completed, and the winner shall be entitled to the entire purse
and stakes contended for, unless otherwise stipulated in the pub-
lished conditions of the race. [See Rule 36, Sec. 1.]
Rule 38.—Rank Between Distanced Horses.
Sec. 1. Horses distanced in the first heat of a race shall be
equal, but horses that are distanced in any subsequent heat shall
rank as to each other in the order of the positions to which they
were entitled at the start of the heat in which they were
distanced.
Rule 39.—Time and its Record.
Sec. 1. In every public race the time of each heat shall be ac-
curately taken and placed in the record, and upon the decision
of each heat the time thereof shall be publicly announced by the
Judges, except as provided in these rules concerning those heats
which are not awarded to either of the leading horses.
Sec. 2. It shall be the duty of the Judges of the race to take
the time as aforesaid, or to appoint some suitable person or per-
sons to assist them in that respect, and no unofficial timing shall
be announced or admitted to the record. [See Art. 20 of By-
Laws ; See also Rules 40, 41 and 43.J
Rule 40.—Two Leading Horses to be Separately Timed.
Sec. 1. The two leading horses shaH be separately timed, and
if the heat is awarded to either, his time only shall be announced
and be a record or bar as the case may be ; and if the winning
horse shall afterwards be ruled out of the race for fraud or in-
eligibility, he shall»retain the record or bar acquired by the time
so announced. [See also Rules 39, 41, and 43.J
Sec. 2. In case of a dead heat, the time shall constitute a
record or bar for the horses making the dead heat; and if lor
any other cause the heat is not awarded to either of the leading
horses, it shall be awarded to the next best horse, and no time'
shall be given out by the Judges or recorded against either-
horse ; and the Judges may waive the application of the rule irt
regard to distance in that heat, except for foul riding or driving.
Rule 41.—Suppression of Time.
Sec. 1. In any public race, if there shall be an intentional
suppression or misrepresentation in either the record or the
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. 1T4
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
announcement of the time of any heat in the race, procured
through any connivance, or collusive arrangement, or under-
standing between the proprietor or Judges or Timers and the
owner of the winning horse or his driver or other authorized
agent, it shall be deemed fraudulent. And any horse winning a
heat or making a dead heat wherein there was such a fraudulent
suppression of time, together with the parties implicated in the
fraud, shall by operation of the rules be henceforth expelled.
[See Rules 39, 40, 43 and 44.
Rule 42.—A Public Race.
Sec. 1. Any contest for purse, premium, stake or wager, on
any course, and in the presence of a Judge or Judges, shall
constitute a public race.
Rule 43.—Time Records, and Bar Records.
[When Time Becomes a Record or Bar.]
Sec. 1. A record can hereafter be made only over a track of a
member of The National Trotting Association, in a public race,
the horse to trot or pace a full mile according to rule ; and the
time must be taken by at least two timers selected for the pur-
pose, and the record of their names as well as the time must be
kept.
Sec. 2. Time otherwise taken or at fairs and on any track,
whether short or not, shall be known as a bar, and shall consti-
tute a bar the same as if regularly made over a track that was
full measurement, but shall not be known as a " record " or be
evidence in favor of the horse as to the time made by him.
[This rule was adopted in February, 1880. For remarks thereon,
see Preface to this edition.]
Rule 44.—When Time Shall Not Be a Bar.
Sec. 1. Time made under the saddle, as well as time made
when two or more horses are harnessed together, shall constitute
a bar for races of the same character, but shall not be a bar for
races of a different character.
Rule 45.—Complaints by Riders or Drivers.
Sec. 1. All complaints by riders or drivers, of any foul riding
or driving, or other misconduct, must be made at the termination
of the heat, and before the rider or driver dismounts or leaves
his vehicle.
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175
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Rule 46.—Decorum.
Sec. 1. If any owner, trainer, rider, driver, or attendant of a
norse, or any other person, use improper language to the officers
of the course or the Judges in a race, or be guilty of any
improper conduct, the person or persons so offending shall be
punished by a fine not exceeding $100, or by suspension or
expulsion. [See also Rule 48.]
Rule 47.—Loud Shouting.
Sec. 1. Any rider or driver guilty of loud shouting, or making
other improper noise, or of making improper use of the whip
during the pendency of a heat, shall be punished by a fine not
to exceed $25, or by suspension during the meeting. [See also
Rule 48.]
Rule 48.—"Fouls."
Sec. 1. If any act or thing shall be done by any owner, rider,
driver, or their horse or horses, during any race or in connection
therewith, which these rules define or warrant the Judges in
deciding to be fraudulent or foul, and if no special provision is
made in these rules to meet the case, the Judges shall have
power to punish the offender by fine not to exceed $100, or by
suspension or expulsion. And in any case of foul riding or
driving they shall distance the offending horse, unless they
believe such a decision will favor a fraud.
Sec. 2. The penalty imposed herein for " Fouls " shall apply
to any act of a fraudulent nature, and to any unprincipled con-
duct such as tends to debase the character of the trotting turf
in the estimation of the public. [See Rule 28, Sections4 and 5 ;
Rule 29, Sec. 11; See also Rules 35, 46, and 47.]
Rule 49.—Fines.
Sec. 1. All persons who shall have been fined under these
rules, unless they pay the fines imposed in full on the day of
assessment, shall be suspended until they are so paid or deposited
with the Treasurer of The National Trotting Association.
[See By-laws, Article 17 ; See also Rule 52, Sec. 1.]
Sec. 2. All fines which shall be paid to the association or
proprietor on whose grounds they were imposed, shall by them
be reported and paid to the Treasurer of said National Asso-
ciation. [See By-laws, Art. 12, Sec. 4. J
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176                           RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Rule 50.—No Compromise of Penalties bt Judges or
Members.
Sec. 1. In no case shall there be any compromise or change
on the part of the Judges, or member, in the manner of punish-
ment prescribed in the rules, but the same shall be strictly
enforced ; but members may accept compromise settlements of
suspended dues, and the penalties in such cases shall be reduced
in proportion. [See Rule 52.J
Rule 51.—Suspensions and Expulsions.
Sec. 1. Whenever the penalty of suspension is prescribed in
these rules, if applied to a horse, it shall be construed to mean
a disqualification, during the time of suspension, to enter or
compete in any race to be performed on the course of the
association or proprietor ; and if applied to a person, it shall be
construed to mean a conditional withholding of all right or
privilege to make an entry, or to ride, drive, train, or assist on
the course and grounds of the association or proprietor ; pro-
vided, that any entry made by any person or of any horse so
disqualified shall be held liable for the entrance fee thus con-
tracted, without any right to compete during suspension.
Sec. 2. If no limit is fixed in an order of suspension and none
is defined in the rule applicable to the case, the punishment
shall be considered as limited to the season in which the order
was issued. [See Section 7.]                   '
Sec. 3. Whenever the penalty of expulsion is prescribed
in these rules, it shall be construed to mean unconditional
exclusion and disqualification from any participation in the
privileges and uses of the course and grounds of the association
or proprietor.
Sec. 4. No penalty of expulsion for fraud shall be removed
or modified after confirmation by the Board of Review, and
on an appeal to the Board of Review the burden of proof shall
be on the applicant, but expulsion for offenses not fraudulent
may be so modified or removed.
Sec. 5. Any associate member allowing the use of their track
by an expelled man or horse, after notice from the Secretary of
National Trotting Association, shall be subject to a fine of $100.
Sec. 6. Whenever either of these penalties has been imposed
on any horse or person, on the grounds of any association or
proprietor holding membership in said National Association,
written or printed notice thereof shall immediately be forwarded
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177
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
to the Secretary of said National Association, giving the name
and residence of the person, and the color, sex and name of the
horse, and stating the offense and the character of punishment,
who shall at once transmit the information to each associated
course or member; and thereupon the offender thus punished
shall suffer the same penalty and disqualification with each and
every association and proprietor holding membership in said
National Association.
Sec. 7. All suspensions imposed on horses for non-payment
of entrance dues, shall cease aud become void by limitation, at
the expiration of six years from the date of their imposition, as
per the records of this Association. [The limitation herein
does not apply to men.']
Rule 52.—Right of Appeal.
Sec. 1. Appeals may be taken to the associate member in
cases of suspension imposed by order of the Judges of a race or
of an officer acting for the member, but members shall not
remove or modify any fine imposed by the Judges of a race, nor
review any order of expulsion. [See Section 3 as to Appeals,
and rule 49 as to fines.]
Sec. 2. All decisions and rulings of the Judges of any race,
and of the several associations and proprietors belonging to the
National Trotting Association, may be appealed to the Board
of Review or to a District Board in the proper district, and
shall be subject to review by such Board, upon facts and
questions involving the proper interpretation and application
of these rules; provided, that parties to be affected thereby,
shall be notified as the Board shall direct, of a time and place
when such appeal will be acted on; and provided further, if the
appeal relate to the decision of^ a race, immediate notice shall
have been given to the Judges of the race, of the intention so
to appeal. Notices of all other appeals must be given within
one week from the announcement of the decisions appealed.
[See By-Laws, Art. 7, Sec. 8, and Sec. 9; See also Rule 26, Sec.
1, ana Rule 51, Sec. 4.]
Sec. 3. Any person who shall appeal from any order suspend-
ing him or his horse for non-payment of entrance money or a
fine, may deposit the amount claimed with the Treasurer of said
National Association, who may thereupon issue a certificate or
notice temporarily reinstating or relieving the party and his
horse from such penalty, subject to the final action of the Board
of Appeals,
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178
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
Rule 53.—Age of a Horse—How Reckoned.
Sec. 1. The age of a horse shall be reckoned from the first
day of January of the year of foaling.
Rule 54.—Colts and Fillies Equally Eligible to Enter.
Sec. 1. All colts and fillies shall be elgible alike to all pre-
miums and stakes for animals of their age, unless specially
excluded by the conditions imposed.
Rule 55.—A Green Horse.
Sec. 1. A green horse is one that has never trotted or paced
for premiums or money, either double or single.
Rule 56.—Races Made and ".No Hour Named. "
Sec. 1. All races shall be started at 2 o'clock P. M., from the
1st day of April to the 15th day of September, and after that
date at 1 o'clock P. M., until the season closes, unless otherwise
provided.
Rule 57.—Race Made and no Distance Specified.
Sec. 1. When a race is made and no distance ppecified, it
shall be restricted to the following distances, viz.: One mile and
repeat ; mile heats, best 3 in 5 ; two miles and repeat, or three
miles and repeat, and may be performed in harness, to wagon,
or under the saddle, the distance and mode of going to be named
by the party accepting the race.
Rule 58.—Race Made to " Go as They Please."
Sec. 1. When a race is made " to go as they please," it shall
be construed that the performance shall be in harness, to
wagon, or under the saddle; but after the race is commenced
no change shall be made in the mode of going, and the race
shall be deemed to have commenced when the horses appear on
the track.
Rule 59.—Race Made to Go " In Harness."
Sec. 1. When a race is made to go " in harness," it shall be
construed to mean that the performance shall be to a sulky.
Rule 60.—Matches Made Against Time.
Sec. 1. When a horse is matched against time, it shall be
proper to allow any other horse to accompany him in the per-
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179
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
formance, but not to be harnessed with, or in any way attached
to him,
Sec. 2. In matches made against time, the parties making
the match shall be entitled to three trials, unless expressly stipu-
lated to the contrary, which trials shall be had on the same day
—the time between trials to be the same as the time between
heats in similar distances.
Rule 61.—Horses Sold with Engagements.
Sec. 1. The seller of a horse sold with his engagements has
not the power of striking him out.
Sec. 2. In case of private sale, the written acknowledgment
of the parties that the horse was sold with engagements, is
necessary to entitle the buyer to the benefit of this rule.
A true copy from record, February 12th, 1880.
Attest—
JNO. J. VAIL, Secretary.
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BETTING RULES.
IN FORCE FROM AND AFTER FEBRUARY 1, 1881.
No. 1. All pools and bets must follow the main stakes, purse,
or other prize, as awarded by the decision of the judges, except
in cases where the horse that comes in first is found to be dis-
qualified, or the bets are declared off for fraud or collusion.
No. 2. If a race is postponed, it shall not affect the pools or
bets that may have been made on it. They shall stand until
the race comes off, unless the contrary shall be agreed on
between the parties betting; provided the race takes place
within five days of the time first named; after which time all
bets and pools are drawn, unless made play or pay.
No. 3. When any change is made in the conditions of a race,
all pools and bets, made previous to the announcement of the
change shall be null and void.
No. 4. When a bet is made on one horse against the field, he
must start or the bet is off, and the field is what starts against
him ; but there is no field unless one start against him.
No. 5. In pools and betting, the pool stands good for all the
horses that start in the race ; but for those horses that do not
start, the money must be returned to the purchaser.
No. 6. In races made play or pay, outside bets are not play or
pay unless so made by the parties.
No. 7. All bets are void on the decease of either party, but in
case a horse should die, play or pay bets made on him stand.
No. 8. If a bet is made on any number of straight heats, and
there is a dead heat made, the heats are not straight, and the
party betting on straight heats loses.
No. 9. If in any case the Judges declare a heat null and void,
it does not affect the bets as in case of a dead heat as to winning
in straight heats.
No. 10. When a race is coming off, and a party bets that a
(180)
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181
BETTING RULES.
heat will be made in two minutes and thirty seconds (2.30), and
they make two thirty (2.30) or less, he would win. If he bets
they will beat two minutes and thirty seconds (2.30), and they
make exactly two thirty (2.30), he loses; but if he takes two
minutes and thirty seconds (2.30) against the field, and they
make exactly two thirty (2.30), it is a tie, or draw bet. All
time bets to be decided accordingly.
No. 11. In a double event—where there is no action on the
first race in order, in consequence of forfeit or other cause, the
bet is off; but where there is an action on the bet, and the
party betting on the double event shall have won the first, the
bet shall then stand as a play or pay bet for the second event,
No. 12. If a bet should be made during the contest of a heat
that a named horse will win that heat, and he makes a dead
heat, the bet is drawn ; but if after the horses have passed the
score, a party bets that a certain named horse has won the heat,
and the Judges declare it a dead heat, the backer of the named
horse loses.
No. 13. In races between two or more horses, of a single dash
at any distance, which result in a dead heat, it is a draw between
the horses making the dead heat, and bets between them are
off; and if it is sweepstakes, the money of the beaten horses is
to be divided between the horses making the dead heat.
No. 14. When a better undertakes to place the horses in a
race, he must give a specified place, as first, second, third, and
so on. The word " last" shall not be construed to mean "fourth
and distanced," if four start, but " fourth " only, and so on. A
distanced horse must be placed M distanced."
No. 15. Horses shall be placed in a race and bets decided as
they are placed in the official record of the day ; provided, that
where a horse comes in first and it is afterward found that he
was disqualified for fraud, the bets on him shall be null and
void, but pool-sellers and stakeholders shall not be held re-
sponsible for moneys paid by them under the decision of the
Judges of the race. [See article 13 of By-laws.]
No. 16. Bets made during a heat are not determined until the
conclusion of the race, if the heat is not mentioned at the time.
No. 17. Either of the betters may demand stakes to be made,
and, on refusal, declare the bet to be void.
No. 18. Outside bets cannot be declared off on the course un-
less that place was named for staking the money, and then it
must be done by filing such declaration in writing with the
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182
BETTING RULES.
Judges, who shall read it from the stand before the race
commences.
No. 19. Bets agreed to be paid or received, or bets agreed to
be made or put up elsewhere than at the place of the race, or
any other specified place, cannot be declared off on the course.
No. 20. Bets on horses disqualified and not allowed to start
are void, unless the bets are play or pay.
No. 21. A bet cannot be transferred without the consent of
parties to it, except in pools.
No. 22. When a bet is made on a horse's time, it shall be de-
cided by the time made in a public race, he going single and
carrying his proper weight.
No. 23. When a horse makes time on a short track it shall
not constitute a record for the decision of bets.
No. 24. Horses that are distanced or drawn at the conclusion
of a heat, are beaten in the race by those that start afterward.
A horse that is distanced in a heat is beaten by one drawn at
the termination of the same heat.
No. 25. When a man lays odds and intends to take the field
against a single horse, he must say so, and the other party will
choose his horse. When a man undertakes to name the winner,
whether he bets odds or takes odds, he must name some one
horse.
No. 26. All bets relate to the purse, stake, or match, if nothing
to the contrary is specified at the time of making the bet.
No. 27. Parties wishing all the horses to start for a bet, must
so name it at the time the bet is made.
No. 28. When the Judges declare a heat null and void, all
bets on that heat shall stand for decision on the next heat.
No. 29. All pools and bets shall be governed and decided by
these rules, unless a stipulation to the contrary shall be agreed
upon by the parties betting.
No. 30. Should any contingencies occur not provided for by
these rules, the Judges of the day shall decide them.
No. 31. When a horse which has not been sold in the pools
wins the race, the best horse sold in the pools wins the money.
A true copy from record.
Attest—
JNO. J. VAIL, Secretary.
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TESTIMONIALS.
Fire Department of the City op Chicago,
Office of the Fire Marshal, No. 2 Qdincy Street,
Chicago, III., Sept. 10, 1877.
To whom, it may concern:
This is to certify that Mr. B. Pitcher, the author of this
book, came to us a stranger, and explained his theory and prac-
tice in shoeing of horses and restoring bad feet and shoulders,
and taking proper care of the same. Having a number of
horses in this department that were lame in the feet and shoul-
ders, we gave him an opportunity to practically test his theory
on the same while he was having his book published. We will
say that he has accomplished more than we expected during
the time the horses have been under his treatment, and that
we have become satisfied that the method adopted by some in
cutting out the frog, braces and sole, and putting on a shoe
hot enough to burn the foot, is entirely wrong and hurtful.
We do most cheerfully recommend his book, theory and prac-
tice to all owners of horses and shoeing smiths.
M. Bejtner, Fire Marshal.
J. P. Baebett, Supt. Fire Alarm Tel.
Office of the McCormick's Reaper Works,
Chicago, III., Sept. 1, 1877.
This is to certify that in the month of July last I formed the
acquaintance of Mr. B. Pitcher, the author of this book, at which
time my horse was very lame — he had on bar shoes. Mr. Pitcher
advised me to have them removed and substitute his method of
shoeing, which I did, according to his directions, and the re-
sult is, that he has recovered from his lameness and his feet are
sound and good to-day. Under these considerations I do cheer-
fully recommend his book and system of shoeing to all, both for
well or crippled horses.                                  W. R. Selleck.
183
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184                                     TESTIMONIALS.
Office of the Chicago City R. R. Co.,
To whom it may concern:              Chicago, III., Sept. 7, 1877.
Sometime in July, 1877, my horse became quite lame. Mr.
B. Pitcher, the author of this book, shod him with the Perkins
shoe, fitted according to his system of shoeing, and he soon
became better. I can readily recommend his book, theory and
practice, to all owners of horses and horse shoers.
C. W". Hammond, Foreman 21st st. K. E. barn.
I do cheerfully indorse the above.
Wm. M. Buet, Veterinary Surgeon.
Office of Leroy Payne,
Divert, Boarding and Sale Stables, 144 and 145 Michigan Ave.,
Chicago, III., Sept. 7, 1877.
This is to certify that Mr. B. Pitcher has had two of my
horses shod according to his system of shoeing, and it is grati-
fying for me to say that, by so doing, a great change for the
better has been the result. Previous to his method being tested
they traveled quite lame, but at the present they are all right.
I can cheerfully recommend his book and his system of shoe-
ing to all horse owners and shoeing smiths. Leroy Payne.
To whom it may concern:                      Chicago, III., Sept. 7, 1877.
This is to certify that I have shod several horses under the
direction of Mr. B. Pitcher, the author of this book, and I think
his system of shoeing bad feet, and his method of taking care of
horses' feet, is good, and I can cheerfully recommend his book to
all owners of horses and to all shoeing smiths.
Abraham S. Beamish, Practical Horse shoer,
54 Pacific avenue, first shop south of Field, Leiter & Co's stables.
To whom it may concern:                      Chicago, III., Sept. 7, 1877.
We, the undersigned, have shod several horses under the
direction of Mr. B. Pitcher, the author of this book, and have
found his system to be very good, and do cheerfully recommend
his book and method to all owners of horses and to all horse
shoere.                                                 McGuire Bros.,
Practical Horse shoers, 287 E. Kinzie st.
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TESTIMONIALS.                                 185
Newark City Insurance Company.
Insurance Building, 174 La Salle St., Chicago, Jan. 22,1879.
I wish to add my testimony in favor of Mr. B. Pitcher's suc-
cessful method of treating horses. My mare, " Nellie," became
lame in the shoulder. After employing the best veterinary skill
in Chicago, all to no avail, I was recommended to Mr. Pitcher.
In less than three weeks she was taken from his hands as sound
as a "bell," with no return, which is nearly a year since the
lameness.                                                  Thomas Hancock.
Chicago, January 16,1879.
As far as I am capable of judging, Mr. Pitcher is an experi-
enced, practical farrier, as well as a successful horse doctor. I
had a horse which became lame in its fore-legs. Mr. P. assured
me that he could cure the lameness. I therefore let him try.
Within four weeks he pronounced the animal well, and, although
the horse has been driven quite constantly, he shows no signs of
his former lameness.                                      Jas. K. Buktis.
Office of C. H. Slack's Wholesale and Retail Grocery House,
109 Madison St., Chicago, Jan. 14, 1879
Last winter I saw B. Pitchard selling his books on the horse.
He was saying what he could do in curing cripples, such as stiff
shoulders, corns, contracted feet, etc. I told him I had a fine
horse that was lame, and if he would tell where he was lame and
cure him, I would give him ten dollars. He took the job — no
cure no pay. He had him under his treatment three weeks;
then I put him to work, and he has done his work every day
since, and is sound, and one of the best horses I have. When
Pitcher took him he had on bar shoes. His heels, braces and
frog had been cut away, and the foot burnt. Pitcher took off
the bar shoes and put on his open offset shoe. He told me when
the horse got a sound foot he would be a horse again, which he
has. I consider his system of great value to owners of horses,
and wo"' * cheerfully recommend it amd his book.
A. S. Savage,
Foreman at Slack's Barn.
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186                                        TESTIMONIALS.
Office of A. M. Forbes1 Truck Stables,
24 and 26 Adams St., Chicago, Jan. 14, 1879.
To whom it may Concern:
Last March B. Pitcher commenced shoeing my horses. Then
their feet were in bad order, they having been burnt, the frogs
and braces cut away, the hoofs dry and feverish, and they were
lame. He has shod them since, and now they are all in good
order, with large, strong walls, frogs and braces. You would
think they had just come in from the country. I think his sys-
tem is the best I have found. I would most cheerfully recom-
mend his book and system to all owners of horses.
A. M. Forbes.
Racine, Wis., January 20, 1880.
lb whom it may concern.
This is to certify that B. Pitcher, came to me a stranger, on the 27th day of December,
1879. and explained his theory and practice of restoring horseB feet that are sore from contrac-
tion and corns, resulting often from bud shoeing. I gave him my family horse to work on,
which had been lame a long time, his feet were contracted. The best shoeing I could get has
not cured him. Mr. Pitcher took the horse and kept him (31) eleven days, when he returned
him to me in a very much improved condition, he having spread his feet 1% inches during the
time. I have driven the horse nearly every day since, and find his lameness gone, and his driv-
ing is very much better, and improving daily, and I can cheerfully recommend hie theory and
practice to all owners of horses thus afflicted.                                                        W. T. BULL.
Racine, Wis., Jan. 29th, 1«S0.
This li to certify that we employed Mr. B. Pitcher to treat one of our horses, which had
contracted feet. He began treatment January 6th. We notice a great improvement and are
confident that Mr. Pitcher can do what he claims for a horse's foot, and recommend him to all
owners of horses in need of such services.                                       THE BLAKE-BtiEBE CO.
Racine, Wis., February 3d, 1880.
This is to certify that two weeks ago my carriage team was lame in their front feet, from
contraction and corns. Mr. B. Pitcher, a horso-shoer and author of a book entitled, "The
Horse," came to me a stranger and explained his mode and practice of restoring horses' feet in
like condition and offered to take the horses and restore them—no cure, no pay. After exam-
ining bis specimens. I became satisfied he understood his business, and I gave him my horses to
work on. I saw what he done and I must say it was new to me. I am satisfied his system is a
good one, aiy horses are much improved and travel better than they have for a long time. I
would most cheerfully recommend him to all having hurses thus afflicted.
M. B. ERSKINE.
Kenosha, Wis., March 23, 1880.
To whom U may concern.
We, the undersigned, have had lame and crippled horses, from corns, contraction and sore
shoulders. We employed Mr. B. Pitcher to treat them, and he has succeeded beyond our expec-
tations. We cheerfully recommend him to all owners of horses thus afflicted.
EDWARD BAIN.                          E. G. TIMMB, County Clerk,
K. S. PORVEY, City Hotel. MET MILLKR, Watchmaker,
Mr. R. 0. GOTTFRE0M.            M. J. LEWIS.
GEORGE YULE.                            LEVI GRANT.
Dr. H. JUNGE.                             GEO. S. BALDWIN.
O. M. PETTIT.
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Why Do We Shoe Horses ?
As I understand it, it is because we are compelled to, for on
hard roads the wall of the hoof will wear, and the horse will slip.
This being the case, we should take a rational view of the matter
and try in our shoeing to keep the horses foot as nearly as pos-
sible in its natural state; cover the wall with as little metal as
possible, and at the same time use a shoe that is durable. I
have shod horses for over thirty-seven years, and have always
argued that a three-calk shoe was wrong, and that some time
some one would devise a shoe that would cover the wall, give an
even pressure to the entire bearing surface of it, and at the same
time furnish a ground bearing that would not slip. My attention
has been called to a shoe that I believe combines all of these
qualities, and I am glad to know that my prediction has been
fulfilled, and that a shoe is now to be had that will be a comfort
and a benefit to the horse. I refer to the u Seymour" steel shoe.
While it completely protects the wall, it is both light and dur-
able, and having calks on the entire ground surface, the horse
gets a firfn footing the instant his foot touches the ground.
This shoe lets the frog and sole down near the ground as nature
intended they should be. I have been so impressed with the
merits of this shoe, that 1 have arranged with the manufacturers
(The Western Steel Company of Chicago) to keep me supplied
with them, and I have them for sale from Nos. 1 to 6.
B. PITCHER,
Author of thti Book.
a.d7Jf
-ocr page 192-
GLOBE NAIL CO.
MANUFACTURERS OF THE
GLOBE HOESE SHOE MIL.
JOHN GARDNER, President.           T. H. FULLER, Treasurer.
BOSTON, MASS.
CQiicagr© ©face, 159 <Sc 1©1 XjaJse Street.
THOS. O. CLARKE,
EXCLUSIVE AGENT FOR WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES.
No. .3.                          JTo. 4.                            Xo. 5.                          JTo. S.
TWO GOLD MEDALS AWAKDED
By the Paris Exposition, being the ONLY GOLD MEDALS EVER GIVEN
FOR HORSE NAILS SINCE THE CREATION OF THE GLOBE ITSELF.
No other exhibitor at Paris, of any line of goods, has received TWO Gold
Medals.
Ask for G-LOBE NAILS and take no other.
-ocr page 193-
With the GLOBE NAIL a shoer can drive on a set of Shoes and be
earning money, while another is spending the time in hammering and
pointing a set of other nails. In most cases where nails are driven, the
shell of the hoof is not thicker than the head of the nails used, and as the
GLOBE NAILS are made thin, smooth and even, they are considered the
safest, best, most economical, and merciful to the animal, of any nail in use.
JVo. 7.                          y». 8.                           v<>. 0.                          JTo. 10.
The GLOBE NAILS are made from best Norway and Swedish iron, fin-
ished and pointed, ready for driving.
The peculiar process by which these nails are made ensures a greater
uniformity in stiffness, thickness, lengths, widths and points, than is the case
with any other nail, and they will drive truer, clinch better, and last longer.
FOR SALE BY HARDWARE AND IRON DEALERS GENERALLY.
If the Globe Nails are not to be found in your town, send your order to
us, and we will see that it is filled.
THOS. C. CLARKE, Agent,
159 tSc IS! Xjalse Street, dxicagr©-
-ocr page 194-
C. F. DEWICK & CO.
MANUFACTURERS OP
PATENT TOE CALKS,
360 DORCHESTER AVE.
SOUTH! BOSTOIT, MASS.
BLUNT                                          SHARP
Nos. 1,2, 3, 4. 5                                 Nos. 0. 1, 2, 3,4
Put up In Boxes containing '25 pounds.
DIE FOR WELDING gHARP CALHS.
In addition to our well known one-pronged Toe-calk, we are now pre-
pared to offer two-pronged calks of the above pattern.
These calks are peculiarly adapted for use with machine-made shoes, as
the position of the spurs keeps them clear of the crease, and does away with
all danger of bursting the edge of the shoe.
They are made from carefully selected brands of Steel; will weld readily
with sand, and harden well.
This Swedge or Die will be found a great assistance in welding sharp
calks. One or two blows on the sharp edge of the calk will suffice to drive
the spurs well into the hot iron of the shoe. Then the shoe (with calk at-
tached) being brought to the proper heat, is reversed, so as to allow the sharp
edge of the calk to be placed in the cbrresponding space in the Die, and the
welding is completed by blows struck upon the upper surface of the shoe.
THOS. C CLARK, Affent,
Nos. 159 and 161 Lake Street, Chicago, III.
-ocr page 195-
"RACER" HORSE RASPS.
PATENTED.
We present herewith an illustration of
an ingenious arrangement of the teeth of
Horse Rasps, from which it will be seen
that the faces of each alternate row of teeth
are presented to the work at reversed an-
gles, producing an obliquity of the cutting
edges, which gives a shearing or drawing
cut. Thus, the substance is cut away, in-
stead of being torn, and a much larger
quantity of material is removed with the
same power, than if the faces of the teeth
were arranged at right angles to the edges
of the rasp, as is the usual custom. By
this arrangement, the teeth are much more
durable, their points being less liable to
crumble in use; and. as will be seen from
their principle of construction, they are less
liable to become clogged; the refuse, instead
of being forced into the apace in front of the
tooth, as in the old style, is, to some de-
gree, by the very action of the operator,
pressed outward, and thus made to clear
itself. For Horse Rasps of this brand,
both tanged and plain, we have adopted
the name of "Racer." They are made
of the usual sizes, from an extra quality of
" mild" steel, each tooth having a double
blow, and are tempered by a process which
gives them extreme toughness. The ver-
dict of those who have used this rasp,
demonstrates that it is unequaled by any
rasp known.
MAHUFACTCRBD ONLY BY TH«
NICHOLSON FILE CO.
PROVIDENCE, R. I.
Ask for the "RACER" RASP. Every Jobber has, or will get them for you.
-ocr page 196-
The Best Horse Shoe
SEYMOUR'S PATENT
MILLED STEEL HORSE SHIES.
This Shoe gires the most Perfect
Bearing, and is the most Com-
fortable Shoe ever made
for a Horse.
With this Shoe the Horses' Foot
is brought nearer to the
ground than with any
other Calked Shoe.
Manufactured by the
WEsfErn SIeeI Enmpanii,,
-Hie CHICAGO, ILL. $<-
J- 110 Dearborn St.
J W Helmeb, SecrGkorgk R French,