NABRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

TO THE SHORES OF THE

THE YEARS 1819-20-21-22.

JOHN FRANKLIN, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., M.W.S.,

AND COMMANDBR OF THE EXPEDITION.

l'UBUSHED BY AUTHOB.ITY OP THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EAEL BATHU|IST.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.

LONDOtf:

PRIKTED KY WILMAM CLOWES,
Northnmberland-court.

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL BATHURST, K. G.,

ONE OF atS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES
OF STATE,

THE FOLLOWING

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY TO
THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA,

VNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES OF
HIS LORDSHIP,

IS BY PEKMISSION, INSCRIBED,

WITH OREAT RESPECT AND GRATITl'DE,

THE AUTHOR.

GONTENTS

THE FIRST VOLUME.

INTRODUCTION ........ i_v

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England�Tramactions at Stromness�Enter
Da-vis' Straits�Perilous situation on the sliore of Reaolution
Island�-Land on the coast of Labrador�Esquimaux of
Savage Islands�York Factory�Preparations for the Jour-
ney into the Intcrior __...--l

CHAPTER II.

Passage up Hayes', Steel, and Hill Rivers�Cross Svvampy
Lake�Jack River�Knee Lake, and Magnetic Islet�Trout
River�Holy Lake�Weepinapannis River�Windy Lake�
White Fall Lake and River�Echemamis and Sea Rivers�
Play-Green Lakes�Lake Winipeg�River Saskatchawan�
Cross, Cedar, and Pine Island Lakes�Cumberland House - 41

CHAPTER III.

Dr. Richardson's residence at Cumberland House�His account
�f the Cree Indians -......91

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Cumberland House�Mode of Travelling in Winter�
Arrival at Carlton House�Stone Indians�Visit to a Buf-
falo Pound�Goitres�Departure from Carlton Honsef-Tsle
a la Crosse�Arrival at Fort Chipevvyan -
a 2

viii CONTENTS.

Pase

CHAPTER V.

Transactions at Fort Chipewyan�Arrival of Dr. Richardson
and Mr. Hood�Preparations for our J�urney tp the Nortli-
vvard..........221

CHAPTER V[.

Mr. Hood's J�urney to the Basquian Hill�Sojourns with an
Indian Party�His Journey to Chipewyan - 260

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Chipewyan�Difficulties of the various Navi-
gation of the Rivers and Lakes, and of the Portages�Slave
Lake and Fort Providence�Scarcity of Provisions, and
Discontent of the Canadian Voyagers�Difficulties with re-
gard to the Indian Guides�Refusal to proceed�Visit of
Observation to the upper part of Copper-Mine River�
Return to the Winter-Quarters of Fort Enterprise - - 301

Dlrections to the Hinder.

VOL. L

I. The CHAR.T shevving¹ the Connected Discoveries of Captains
Ross, Parry, and Franklin, to face the Title-page.

VOL. II.
II. Route from York Factory ~\

III. Isle a la Grosse > To be placeJ at the end.

IV. Slave Lake )

His Majesty's Government having deter-
mined upon sending an Expedition from the
Shores of Hudson's Bay by land, to explore
the Northern Coast of America, from the
Mouth of the Copper-Mine River to the
eastward, I had the honour to be appointed
to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the
recommendation of the Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty; who, at the same
time, nominated Doctor John Richardson, a
Surgeon in the Royal Navy, Mr. George
Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty
Midshipmen, to be joined with me in the
Expedition. My instructions, in substance,
informed me that the main object of the
Expedition was that of determining the
latitudes and longitudes of the Northern

X INTRODUCTION.

Coast of North America, and the trending
of that Coast from the Mouth of the Cop-
per-Mine River to the eastern extremity of
that Continent; that it was left for me
to determine, according to circumstances,
whether it might be most advisable to
proceed, at once, directly to the northward
till I arrived at the sea-coast, and proceed
westerly towards the Copper-Mine River;
or advance, in the first instance, by the
usual route to the Mouth of the Copper-
Mine River, and from thence easterly till I
should arrive at the eastern extremity of
that Continent; that, in the adoption of
either of these plans, I was to be guided
by the advice and information which I
should receive from the wintering servants
of the Hudson's Bay Company, who would
be instructed by their employers to co-ope-
rate cordially in the prosecution of the
objects of the Expedition, and who would
provide me with the necessary escort of
Indians to act as guides, interpreters, game-
killers, #c. ; and also with such articles of
clothing, ammunition, snow-shoes, presents,

INTRODUCTION. XI

#c., as should be deemed expedient for me
to take. That as another principal object
of the Expedition was to amend the very
defective geography of the northern part
of North America, I was to be very care-
ful to ascertain correctly the latitude and
longitude of every remarkablespot upon our
route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers,
headlands, #c� that might occur along the
Northern Shore of North America. That,
in proceeding along the coast, I should
erect conspicuous marks at places where
ships might enter, or to which a boat could
be sent; and to deposit information as to
the nature of the coast for the use of Lieu-
tenant Parry. That, in the Journal of our
route, I should register the temperature of
the air, at least three times in every twenty-
four hours; together with the state of the
wind and weather, and any other meteoro-
logical phenomenon. That I should not
neglect any opportunity of observing and
noting down the dip and variation of the
magnetic needie, and the intensity of the
magnetic force; and should take particular

Xll INTRODUCTION.

notice whether any, and what kind or degree
of, influence the Aurora Borealis might ap-
pear to exert on the magnetic needie; and
to notice whether that phen�menon was
attended with any noise; and to make any
other observations that might be likely
to tend to the further developement of
its cause, and the laws by which it is
governed.

Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist
me in all the observations above-mentioned,
and to make drawings of the land, of the
natives, and of the various objects of natura!
history; and, particularly, of such as Dr.
Richardson, who, to his professional duties,
was to add that of naturalist, might con-
sider to be most curious and interesting.

I was instructed, on my arrival at, or
near, the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River,
to make every inquiry as to the situation
of the spot from whence native copper had
been brought down by the Indians to the
Hudson's Bay establishment, and to visit
and explore the place in question; in order
that Dr. Richardson might be enabled to

INTRODUCTION. X�i

make such observations as might be useful
in a commercial point of view, or interesting
to the science of mineralogy.

From Joseph Berens, Esq., the Governor
of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the
gentlemen of the Committee, I received all
kinds of assistance and information, com-
municated in the most friendly manner pre-
vious to my leaving England; and I had
the gratification of perusing the orders to
their agents and servants in North America,
containing the fullest directions to promote,
by every means, the progress of the Expe-
dition; and I most cheerfully avail myself
of this opportunity of expressing my gra-
titude to these Gentlemen for their personal
kindness to myself and the other officers,
as well as for the benefits rendered by them
to the Expedition ; and the same sentiment
is due towards the Gentlemen of the North-
West Company, both in England and Ame-
rica, more particularly to Simon M'Gil-
livray, Esq., of London, from whom I re-
ceived much useful information, and cordial
letters of recommendation to the partners

XIV INTRODUCTION.

and agents of that Company, resident on
our line of route.

A short time before I left London I had
the pleasure and advantage of an interview
with the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who
was one of the two persons who had visited
the coast we were to explore. He a�brded
me, in the most open and kind manner,
much valuable information and advice.

The provisions, instruments, and other
articles, of which I had furnished a list, by
direction of the Lords Commissioners of
the Admiralty, were embarked on board
the Hudson's Bay Company's ship Prince
of Wales, appointed by the committee to
convey the Expedition to York Factory,
their principal establishment in Hudson's
Bay.

It will be seen, in the course of the Nar-
rative how much reason I had to be satisfied
with, and how great my obligations are
to, all the Gentlemen who were associated
with me in the Expedition, whose kindness,
good conduct, and cordial co-operation,
have made an impression which can never

1NTRODUCTION. XV

be effaced from my mind. The unfortunate
death of Mr. Hood is the only drawback
which I feel from the otherwise unalloyed
pleasure I derived from reflecting on that
cordial unanimity which at all times pre-
vailed among us in the days of sunshine,
and in those of " sickness and sorrow."

To Dr. Richardson, in. particular, the
exclusive merit is due of whatever collec-
tions and observations have been made in
the department of Natural History; and I
am indebted to him in no small degree for
his friendly advice and assistance in the
preparation of the present narrative.

The charts and drawings were made by
Lieutenant Back, and the late Lieutenant
Hood. Both these gentlemen cheerfully
and ably assisted me in making the ob-
servations and in the da�y conduct of
the Expedition. The observations made
by Mr. Hood, on the various phenomena
presented by the Aurora Borealis*, will, it
is presumed, present to the reader some
new facts connected with this meteor. Mr.

* Given in the Appendix to the Quarto Edition.

XVI INTRODUCTION.

Back was mostly prevented from turning
his attention to objects of science by the
many severe duties which were required of
him, and which obliged himto travel almost
constantly every winter that we passed in
America; to his personal exertions, indeed,
is mainly to be attributed our final safety.
And here I must be permitted to pay the
tribute, which is due to the fidelity, exertion,
and uniform good conduct in the most
trying situations, of John Hepburn, an
English seaman, and our only attendant, to
whom in the latter part of our journey we
owe, under Divine Providence, the preser-
vation of the lives of some of the party.

I ought, perhaps, to crave the reader's
indulgence towards the defective style of
this work, which I trust will not be refused
when it is considered that mine has been a
life of constant employment in my profes-
sion from a very early age. I have been
prompted to venture upon the task solely
by an imperious sense of duty, when called
upon to undertake it.

In the ensuing Narrative the notices of

INTRODUCTION. XV11

the moral condition of the Indians as in-
fluenced by the conduct of the traders to-
wards them, refer entirely to the state in
which it existed during our progress through
the country; but lest I should have been
mistaken respecting the views of the Hud-
son's Bay Company on these points, I
gladly embrace the opportunity which a
Second Edition afFord s me of stating that
the junction of the two Companies has
enabled the Directors to put in practice
the improvements which I have reason to
believe they have long contemplated. They
have provided for religieus instruction by
the appointment of two clergymen of the
established church, under whose direction
school-masters and mistresses are to be
placed at such stations as afFord the means
of support for the establishment of schools.
The ofFspring of the voyagers and labourers
are to be educated chiefly at the expense
of the Company; and such of the Indian
children as their parents may wish to send
to these schools, are to be instructed,
clothed, and maintained at the expense of

XVlll INTRODUCTION.

the Church Missionary Society, which has
already allotted a considerable sum for
these purposes, and it has also sent out
teachers who are to act under the super-
intendence of the Rev. Mr. West, the prin-
cipal chaplain of the Company.

We had the pleasure of meeting this
gentleman at York Factory, and witnessed
with peculiar delight the great benefit
which had already marked his zealous and
judicious conduct. Many of the traders,
and of the servants of the Company, have
been induced to marry the women with
whom they had cohabited; a material step
towards the improvement of the females
in that country.

Mr. West, under the sanction of the
Directors, has also promoted a subscription
for the distribution of the Bible in every
part of the country where the Cornpany's
Fur Trade has extended, and which has
met with very general support from the
resident chief factors, traders, and clerks.
The Directors of the Company are con-
tinuing to reduce the distribution of spirits

INTRODUCTION. XIX

gradually among the Indians, as well as
thefr own servants, with a view to the
entire disuse of them as soon as this most
desirable object can be accomplished. They
have likewise issued orders for the cultiva-
tion of the ground at each of the posts,
by which means the residents will be far
less exposed to famine whenever through
the scarcity of animals, the sickness of the
Indians, or any other cause, their supply of
meat may fail.

It is to be hoped that intentions, so dear
to every humane and pious mind, will,
through the blessing of God, meet with
the utmost success.

JOUENEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTEE I.

Departure from Eng-land � Transactions at Stromness � Enter
Davis' Straits � Perilous Situation on the Shore of Resolution
Island � Land on the Coast of Labrador � Esquimaux of Savage
Islands � York Factory � Preparations for the Journey into the
Interior.

May.' ON Sunday, the 23d of May, the whole
of our party embarked at Gravesend on board
the ship Prince of Wales, belonging to the Hud-
son's Bay Company, just as she was in the act of
getting under weigh, with her consorts the Ed-
dystone and Wear. The wind being unfavour-
able, on the ebb tide being finished, the vessels
were again anchored ; but they weighed in the
night, and beat down as far as the Warp, where
they were detained two days by a strong east-
erly wind.

Having learned from some of the passengers,
who were the trading Officers of the Company,
that the arrival of the ships at either of the esta-

VOL. I. B

2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

blishments in Hudson's Bay, gives Ml occupation
to all the boatmen in their service, who are re-
quired to convey the necessary stores to the dif-
ferent posts in the interior; that it was very pro-
bable a sufficient number of men might not be
procured from this indispensable duty; and, con-
sidering that any delay at York Factory would
materially retard our future operations, I wrote
to the Under Secretary of State, requesting his
permission to provide a few well-qualified steers-
men and bowmen at Stromness, to assist our
proceedings in the former part of our journey
into the interior.

May 30.�The easterly wind, which had re-
tarded the ship's progress so much, that we had
only reached Hollesly Bay after a week's beating
about, changed to W.S.W. soon after that an-
chorage had been gained. The vessels instantly
weighed, and, by carrying all sail, arrived in
Yarmouth Roads at seven P.M.; the pilots were
landed, and our course was continued through the
anchorage. At midnight, the wind became light
and variable, and gradually drew round to the
N.W.; and, as the sky indicated unsettled wea-
ther, and the wind blew from an unfavourable
quarter fbr ships upon that coast, the commander
bore up again for Yarmouth, and anchored at
eight A.M.

OP THE POLAR SEA. 3

This return afforded us, at least, the oppor-
tunity of comparing the longitude of Yarmouth
church, as shewn by our chronometers, with its
position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigono-
metrical Survey ; and, it was satisfactory to find,
from the small difFerence in their results, that the
chronometers had not experienced any alteration
in their rates, in consequence of their being
changed from an horizontal position in a room, to
that of being carried in the pocket.

An untoward circumstance, while at this an-
chorage, cast a damp on our party at this early
period of the voyage. Emboldened by the de-
cided appearance of the N. W. sky, several of
our officers and passengers ventured on shore for
a few hours; but, we had not been long in the
town before the wind changed suddenly to S.E.,
which caused instant motion in the large fleet
collected at this anchorage. The commander of
our ship intimated his intention of proceeding to
sea, by firing guns; and the passengers hastened
to embark. Mr. Back, however, had unfortu-
nately gone upon some business to a house two
or three miles distant from Yarmouth, along the
line of the coast; from whence h� expected to be
able to observe the first symptoms of moving,
which the vessels might make. By some acci-
dent, however, h� did not make his appearance

4 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

before the captain was obliged to make sail, that
h� might get the ships through the intricate pas-
sage of the Cockle Gat before it was dark. For-
tunately, through the kindness of Lieutenant
Hewit, of the Protector, I was enabled to convey
a note to our missing companion, desiring him to
proceed immediately by the coach to the Pent-
land Firth, and from thence across the passage to
Stromness, which appeared to be the only way of
proceeding by which h� could rejoin the party.

June 3.�The wind continu ing favourable after
leaving Yarmouth, about nine this morning we
passed the rugged and bold projecting rock,
termed Johnny Groat's house, and soon after-
wards Duncansby Head, and then entered the
Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the mam
shore of Scotland, and steered the ship in safety
between the different islands, to the outer anchor-
age at Stromness, though the atmosphere was
too dense for distinguishing any of the objects on
the land. Almost immediately after the ship
had anchored, the wind changed to N.W., the
rain ceased, and a sight was then first obtained
of the neighbouring islands, and of the town of
Stromness, the latter of which, from this point of
view, and at this distance, presented a pleasing
appearance.
, Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson's Bay

OF THE POL AR SEA. &

Company at this place, undertook to communi-
cate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the dif-
ferent parishes, by a notice on the church-door,
which h� said was the surest and most direct
channel for the conveyance of information to the
lower classes in these islands, as they invariably
attend divine service there every Sunday. He
informed me that the kind of men we were in
want of would be difficult to procure, on account
of the very increased demand for boatmen for the
herring fishery, which had recently been esta-
blished on the shores of these islands ; that last
year, sixty boats and four hundred men only were
employed in this service, whereas now there were
three hundred boats and twelve hundred men
engaged; and that owing to this unexpected
addition to the fishery, h� had been unable to
provide the number of persons required for the
service of the Hudson's Bay Company. This
was unpleasant information, as it increased the
apprehension of our being detained at York Fac-
tory the whole winter, if boatmen were not taken
from hence. I could not therefore hesitate in re-
questing Mr. Geddes to engage eight or ten men
well adapted for our service, on such terms as h�
could procure them, though the Secretary of
State's permission had not yet reached me.
Next to a supply of boatmen, our attention

O JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

was directed towards the procuring of a house
conveniently situated for trying the Instruments,
and examining the rates of the chronometers.
Mr. Geddes kindly ofFered one of his, which,
though in an unfinished state, was readily ac-
cepted, being well situated for our purpose, as it
was placedon an eminence, had a southern aspect,
and was at a sufficient distance from the town to
secure us from frequent interruption. Another
advantage was its proximity to the Manse, the
residence of the Rev. Mr. Clouston, the worthy
and highly respected minister of Stromness;
whose kind hospitality and the polite attention
of his family, the party experienced almost daily
during their stay.

For three days the weather was unsettled, and
few observations could be made, except for the
dip of the needie, which was ascertained to be
74° 37' 48", on which occasion a difference of
eight degrees and a half was perceived between
the observations, when the face of the instrument
was changed from the east to the west, the
amount being the greatest when it was placed
with the face to the west. But, on the 8th, a
westerly wind caused a cloudless sky, which
enabled us to place the transit instrument in the
meridian, and to ascertain the variation of the
eompass, to be 27° 50' west. The sky becoming

OF THE POLAR SEA.

cloudy in the afternoon, prevented our obtaining
the corresponding observations to those gained
in the morning ; and the next day an impervious
fog obscured the sky until noon. On the even-
ing of this day, we had the gratification of wel-
coming our absent companion, Mr. Back. His
return to our society was hailed with sincere
pleasure by every one, and removed a weight of
anxiety from my mind. It appears that h� had
come down to the beach at Caistor, just as the
ships were passing by, and had applied to some
boatmen to convey him on board, which might
have been soon accomplished, but they, discover-
ing the emergency of his case, demanded an ex-
orbitant reward which h� was not at the instant
prepared to satisfy ; and, in consequence, they
positively refused to assist him. Though h� had
travelled nine successive day s, almost without
rest, h� could not be prevailed upon to withdraw
from the agreeable sc�ne of a ball-room, in which
h� joined us, until a late hour.

On the lOth, the rain having ceased, the ob-
servations for ascertaining the dip of the needie
were repeated; and the results, compared with
the former ones, gave a mean of 74° 33' 20".
Nearly the same differences were remarked in
reversing the face of the instrument as before.
An attempt was also made to ascertain the mag-

S JQURNEY TO THE SHORES

netic force, but the wind blew too strong fof
procuring the observation to any degree of ao
curacy.

The fineness of the following day induced us
to set up the different instruments for examina-
tion, and to try how nearly the observations
made by each of them would agree; but a squall
passed over just before noon, accornpanied by
heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable oppor-
tunity was entirely lost. In the intervals be-
tween the observations, and at every opportunity,
my companions were occupied in those pursuits
to which their attention had been more particu-
larly directe d in my instructions. Whilst Dr.
Richardson was collecting and examining the
various specimens of marine plants, of which
these islands furnish an abundant and diversified
supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and
sketches of the surrounding scenery, which is
extremely picturesque in many parts, and wants
only the addition of trees to make it beautiful.
The huls present the bold character of rugged
sterility, whilst the valleys, at this season, are
clothed with luxuriant verdure.

It was not tillthe 14th, that, by appointment,
the boatmen were to assemble at the house of
Mr. Geddes, to engage to accompany the Expe-
dition. Several persons collected, but to my

OP THE POLAR S�A. 9

great mortification, I found they were all so
strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension,
either that great danger would attend the service,
or that we should carry them further than they
would agree to go, that not a single man would
engage with us ; some of them, however, said
they would consider the subject, and give me an
answer on the following day. This indecisive
conduct was extremely annoying to me, espe-
cially as the next evening was fixed for the
departure of the ships.

At the appointed time on the following morn-
ing, four men only presented themselves, and
these, after much hesitation, engaged to accom-
pany the Expedition to Fort Chipewyan, if they
should be required so far. The bowmen and
steersmen were to receive forty pounds' wages
annually, and the middle men thirty-five pounds.
They stipulated to be sent back to the Orkney
Islands, free of expense, and to receive their pay
until the time of arrival. Only these few men
could be procured, although our requisition had
been sent to almost every island, even as far as
the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was
much amused with the extreme caution these
men used before they would sign the agreement;
they minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed
every circumstance, looked narrowly into the

10 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to
the prospect of return. Such caution on the part
of the northern mariners forms a singular contrast
with the ready and thoughtless marnier in which
an English seaman enters upon any enterprise,
however hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring
to know where h� is going, or what h� is going
about.

The brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian
Missionary Society, and bound to their settlement
at Nain, on the coast of Labrador, was lying at
anchor. With the view of collecting some Esqui-
maux words and sentences, or gaining any infor-
mation respecting the manners and habits of that
people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her
a visit. We found the passengers, who were
going out as Missionaries, extremely disposed to
communicate; but as they only spoke the Ger-
man and Esquimaux languages, of which we
were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily
muchconfined: by the aid, however, of an Esqui-
maux and German Dictionary, some few words
were collected, which we considered might be
useful. There were on board a very interesting
girl, and a young man, who were natives of Disco,
in Old Greenland; both of them had fair com-
plexions, rather handsome features, and a lively
manner; the former was going to be married to

OF THE POLAR SEA. Il

a resident Missionary, and the latter to officiate
in that character. The commander of the vessel
gave me a translation of the Gospel of St. John in
the Esquimaux language, printed by the Mora-
vian Society in London.

June 16.�The wind being unfavourable for
sailing I went on shore with Dr. Richardson,and
took several lunar observations at the place of
our former residence. The result obtained was,
latitude 58° 56' 56" N., longitude 3° 17' 55" W.,
variation 27° 50' W.; dip of the magnetic needie,
74° 33' 20". In the afternoon the wind changed
in a squall some points towards the north, and
the Prince of Wales made the preparatory signal
for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an
hour too early for the tide ; as soon as this served
we entered into the passage between Hoy and
Pomona, and had to beat through against a very
heavy swell, which the meeting of a weather tide
and a strong breeze had occasioned.

Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona
shore, and on this side also the tide appeared to
run with the greatest strength. On clearing the
outward projecting points of Hoy and Pomona,
we entered at once into the Atlantic, and com-
menced our voyage to Hudson's Bay�having the
Eddystone, Wear, and Harmony Missionary brig,
in company.

12 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The comparisons of the chronometers this day
indicated that Arnold's NOS. 2148 and 2147, had
slightly changed their rates since they had been
brought on board ; fortunately the rate of the for-
mer seems to have increased nearly in the same
ratio as the other has lost, and the mean longi-
tude will not be materially affected.

Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic, I
issued a general memorandum for the guidance
of the officers, during the prosecution of the ser-
vice on which we we re engaged, and communi-
cated to them the several points of information
that were expected from us by my instructions.
I also furnished them with copies of the signals
which had been agreed upon between Lieutenant
Parry and myself, to be used in the event of our
reaching the northern coast of America, and fall-
ing in with each other.

At the end of the month of June, our progress
was found to have been extremely slow, owing to
a determined N. W. wind and much sea. We had
numerous birds hovering round the ship; princi-
pally fulmars (procellaria glacialis,) and shear-
waters, (procellaria puffinus,} and not unfrequently
saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which
the Greenland seamen term finners from their
large dorsal fin. Some porpoises occasionally
appeared, and whenever they did, the crew were

OF THE POLAR SEA. 13

sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy
change in the wind, which had been so vexatiously
contrary, but they were disappointed in every in-
stance.

Thursday, July l.�The month of July set in
more favourably; and, aided by fresh breezes,
we advanced rapidly to the westward, attended
daily by numerous fulmars and shearwaters.
The Missionary brig had parted company on the
22d of June. We passed directly over that part
of the ocean where the " Sunken Land of Buss"
is laid down in the old, and continued in the Ad-
miralty charts. Mr. Bell, the commander of the
Eddystone, informed me, that the pilot who
brought his ship down the Thames, told him that
h� had gained soundings in twelve feet some-
where hereabout; and I am rather inclined to
attribute the very unusual and cross sea we had
in this neighbourhood, to the existence of a bank,
than to the effect of a gale of wind which we had
just before experienced; and I cannot but regret
that the commander of the ship did not try for
soundings at frequent intervals,

By the 25th July we had opened the entrance
of Davis' Straits, and in the afternoon spoke the
Andrew Marvell, bound to England with a cargo
of fourteen fish. The master informed us that
the ice had been heavier this season in Davis'

14 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Straits than h� had ever recollected, and that it
lay particularly close to the westward, being
connected with the shore to the northward of
Resolution Island, and extending from thence
within a short distance of the Greenland coast;
that whales had been abundant, but the ice so ex-
tremely cross, that few could be killed. His ship,
as well as several others, had suffered material
injury, and two vessels had been entirely crushed
between vast masses of ice in latitude 74° 40' N.,
but the crews were saved. We inquired anxiously,
but in vain, for intelligence respecting Lieute-
nant Parry, and the ships under his command;
but as h� mentioned that the wind had been
blowing strong from the northward for some
time, which would, probably, have cleared Baf-
fin's Bay of ice, we were disposed to hope fa-
vourably of his progress.

The clouds assumed so much the appearance
of icebergs this evening, as to deceive most of
the passengers and crew ; but their imaginations
had been excited by the intelligence we had re-
ceived from the Andrew Marvell, that she had
only parted from a cluster of them two days pre-
vious to our meeting.

On the 27th, being in latitude 57° 44' 21" N.,
longitude 47° 31' 14" W., and the weather calm,
we tried for soundings, but did not reach the

OP THE POLAR SEA. 15

bottom. The register thermometer was attached
to the line just above the lead, and is supposed
to have descended six hundred and fifty fathoms.
A well-corked bottle was also fastened to the
line, two hundred fathoms above the lead, and
went down four hundred and fifty fathoms. The
change in temperature, shewn by the register
thermometer during the descent, was from 52° to
40.5'; and it stood at the latter point, when
taken out of the tin case. The temperature of
the water brought up in the bottle was 41°, being
half a degree higher at four hundred and fifty
than at six hundred and fifty fathoms, and four
degrees colder than the water at the surface,
which was then at 45°, whilst that of the air
was 46°. This experiment in shewing the water
to be colder at a great depth than at the surface,
and in proportion to the increase of the descent,
coincides with the observations of Captain Ross
and Lieutenant Parry, on their late voyage to
these seas, but is contrary to the results obtained
by Captain Buchan and myself, on our recent
voyage to the north, between Spitzbergen and
Greenland, in which sea we invariably found the
water brought from any great depth to be warmer
than that at the surface.

On the 28th we tacked, to avoid an extensive
stream of sailing ice. The temperature of the

IC JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

water feil to 39.5°, when we were near it, but
was at 41°, when at the distance of half a mile.
The thermometer in the air remained steadily at
40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so
decidedly indicated by the decrease of the tem-
perature of either the air or water, as I have before
witnessed, which was probably owing to the
recent arrival of the stream at this point, and its
passing at too quick a rate for the effectual dif-
fusion of its chilling influence beyond a shoi
distance. Still the decrease in both cases was
sufficient to have given timely warning for a
ship's performing any evolution that would have
prevented the coming in contact with it, had the
thickness of the weather precluded a distant
view of the danger.

The approach to ice would b e more evideritly
pointed out in the Atlantic, or wherever the sur-
face is not so continually chilled by the passing
and the melting of ice as in this sea ; and I should
strongly recommend a strict hourly attention to
the thermometrical state of the water at the sur-
face, in all parts where ships are exposed to the
dangerous concussion of sailing icebergs, as a
principal means of security.

The following day our ship came near another
stream of ice, and the approach to it was indi-
cated by a decrease of the temperature of the

OP THE POLAE SEA. 17

water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small
pirie-tree was picked up much shattered by the
ice. In the afternoon of the 30th, a very dense
fog came on; and, about six P.M., when sailing
before a fresh breeze, we were suddenly involved
in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable difficulty
was experienced in steering through the narrow
channels between the different masses in this
foggy weather, and the ship received several
severe blows.

The water, as usual in the centre of the stream,
was quite smooth, but we heard the waves beating
violently against the outer edge of the ice. There
was some earthy matter on several of the pieces,
and the whole body bore the appearance of re-
cent separation from the land. In the space of
two hours we again got into the open sea, but
had left our two consorts far behind; they
followed our track by the guns we discharged.
The temperature of the surfaee water was 35°
when amongst the ice, 38° when just clear of it,
and 41.5° at two miles distant.

On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58'
N., longitude 59° 53' W., we first feil in with
large icebergs; and in the evening were encom-
passed by several of considerable magnitude,
which obliged us to tack the ship in order to
prevent our getting entangled amongst them.

VOL. I. C

18 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The estimated distance from the nearest part of
the Labrador coast was then eighty-eight miles;
here we tried for soundings, without gaining the
bottom. The ship passed through some strong
riplings, which evidently indicated a current, but
its direction was not aseertained. We found,
however, by the recent observations, that the
ship had been set daily to the southward, since
we had opened Davis' Straits. The variation of
the compass was observed to be 52° 41' W.

At nine P.M., brilliant coruscations of the
Aurora Borealis appeared, of a pale ochre colour,
with a slight tinge of red, in an arched form,
crossing the zenith from N.W. to S.�., but after-
wards they assumed various shapes, and had a
rapid motion.

On the 5th of August, a party of the officers
endeavoured to get on one of the larger icebergs,
but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and
smoothness of its sides, and the swell produced
by its undulating motion. This was one of the
largest we saw, and Mr. Hood aseertained its
height to be one hundred and forty-nine feet; but
these masses of ice are frequently magnified to
an immense size, through the illusive medium of
a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their
dimensions have often been exaggerated by
voyagers.

OF THE POLAR SEA. W

In the morning of the 7th, the Island of Reso-
lution was indistinctly seen through the haze, but
was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very
dense fog. The favourable breeze subsided into
a perfect calm, and left the ship surrounded by
loose ice. At this time the Eddystone was per-
ceived to be driving witk rapidity towards some
of the larger masses; the stern-boats of this ship
and of the Wear were despatched to assist in
towing her clear of them. At ten, a momentary
clearness presented the land distinctly at the dis-
tance of two miles; the ship was quite unmanage-
able, and under the sole governance of the cur-
rents, which ran in strong eddies between the
masses of ice. Our consorts were also seen, the
Wear being within hail, and the Eddystone at a
short distance from us. Two attempts were in-
effectually made to gain soundings, and the ex-
treme density of the fog precluded us from any
other means of ascertaining the direction in which
we were driving until half past twelve, when we
had the alarming view of a barren mgged shore
within a few yards, towering over the mast-heads.
Almost instantly afterwards the ship struck vio-
lently on a point of rocks, projecting from the
island; and the ship's side was brought so near
to the shore, that poles were prepared to push
her off. This blow displaced the rudder, and

20 JOUHNEY TO THE SHORES

raised it several inches, but it fortunately had
been previously confined by tackles. A gentle
swell freed the ship from this perilous situation,
but the current hurried us along in contact with
the rocky shore, and the prospect was most
alarming. On the outward bow was perceived
a rugged and precipitous cliff, whose summit
was hid in the fog, and the vessel's head was
pointed towards the bottom of a small bay, int�
which we were rapidly driving. There now
seemed to be no probability of escaping ship-
wreck, being without wind, and having the rudder
in its present useless state; the only assistance
was that of a boat employed in towing, which
had been placed in the water between the ship
and the shore, at the imminent risk of its being
crushed. The ship again struck in passing over
a ledge of rocks, and happily the blow replaced
the rudder, which enabled us to take advantage
of a light breeze, and to direct the ship's head
without the projecting cliff. But the breeze was
only momentary, and the ship was a third time
driven on shore on the rocky termination of the cliff.
Here we rernained stationary for some seconds,
and with little prospect of being removed from this
perilous situation; but we were once more extri-
cated by the swell from this ledge also, and carried
still farther along the shore. The coast became

OF THE POLAR SEA. 21

now more rugged, and our view of it was termi-
nated by another high projecting point on the
starboard bow. Happily, before we had reached
it, a light breeze enabled us to turn the ship's
head to seaward, and we had the gratification to
find, when the sails were trimmed, that she drew
off the shore. We had rnade but little progress,
however, when she was violently forced by the
current against a large iceberg lying aground.

Our prospect was now more alarming than at
any preceding period; and it would be difficult
for me to portray the anxiety and dismay de-
picted on the countenances of the female pas-
sengers and children, who were rushing on deck
in spite of the endeavours of the officers to keep
them below, out of the danger which was appre-
hended if the masts should be carried away.
After the first concussion, the ship was driven
along the steep and rugged side of this iceberg
with such amazing rapidity, that the destruction
of the masts seemed inevitable, and every one
expected we should again be forced on the rocks
in the most disabled state ; but we providentially
escaped this perilous result, which must have
been decisive.

The dense fog now cleared away for a short
time, and we ciiscovered the Eddystone

23 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

some rocks, having three boats employed in tow-
ing; but the Wear was not visible,

Our ship received water very fast; the pumps
were instant] y manned and kept in eontinual use,
and signals of distress were made to the Eddy-
stone, whose commander promptly came on
board, and then ordered to our assistance his
carpenter and all the men h� could spare, toge-
ther with the carpenter and boat's crew of the
Wear, who had gone on board the Eddystone in
the morning, and were prevented from returning
to their own vessel by the fog. As the wind was
increasing, and the sky appeared very unsettled,
it was determined the Eddystone should take the
ship in tow, that the undivided attention of the
passengers and crew might be directed to pump-
ing, and clearing the holds to examine whether
there was a possibility of stopping the leak.
We soon had reason to suppose the principal
injury had been received from a blow near the
stern-post, and, after cutting away part of the
ceiling, the carpenters endeavoured to stop the
rushing in of the water, by forcing oakum be-
tween the timbers ; but this had not the desired
effect, and the leak, in spite of all our efforts at
the pumps, increased so much, that parties of
the officers and passengers were stati©ned to ba�

OF THE POLAR SEA. 2S

out the water in buckets at different parts of the
hold. A heavy gale came on, blowing from the
land, as the night advanced; the saus were split,
the ship was encompassed by heavy ice, and, in
forcing through a closely-connected stream, the
tow-rope broke, and obliged us to take a portion
of the seamen from the pumps, and appoint them
to the management of the ship.

Fatigue, indeed, had caused us to relax in our
exertions at the pumps during a part of the
night of the 8th, and on the following morning
upwards of five feet water was found in the
well. Renewed exertions were now put forth
by every person, and before eight A.M. the
water was so much reduced as to enable the
carpenters to get at other defective places; but
the remedies they could apply were insufficient
to repress the water from rushing in, and our
labours could but just keep the ship in the same
state throughout the day, until six P.M.; when
the strength of every one began to fail, the ex-
pedient of thrusting in feit, as well as oakum,
was resorted to, and a plank nailed over all-
After this operation a perceptible diminution in
the water was made, and being encouraged by
the change, we put forth our utmost exertion in
bailing and pumping ; and before night, to our
nfinite joy, the leak was so overpowered that

24 JOURNEY TO THE iHORES

the pumps were only required to be used at in-
tervals of ten minutes. A sail, covered with
every substance that could be carried into the
leakg by the pressure of the water, was drawn
under the quarier of the ship, and secured by
ropes on each side.

As a matter of precaution in the event of hav-
ing to abandon the ship, which was for some
time doubtful, the elderly women and children
were removed to the Eddystone when the wind
was moderate this afternoon, but the young wo-
men remained to assist at the pumps, and their
services were highly valuable, both for their per-
sonal labour, and for the encouragement their
example and perseverance gave to the men.

At day-light, on the 9th, every eye was anxi-
ously cast around the horizon in search of the
Wear, but in vain; and the recollection of our
own recent peril caused us to entertain consider-
able apprehensions for her safety. This anxiety
quickened our efforts to exchange our shattered
sails for new ones, that the ship might be got, as
speedily as possible, near to the land, which
was but just in sight, and a careful search be
made for her along the coast. We were rejoiced
to find that our leak did not increase by carrying
sail, and we ventured in the evening to remove
the sail which had been placed under the part

OF THE POLAR SEA. 23

where the injury had been received, as it greatly
irapeded our advance.

We passed many icebergs on the lOth, and in
the evening we tacked from a level field of ice,
which extended northward as far as the eye could
reach. Our leak remained in the same state ;
the pumps discharged in three minutes the quan-
tity of water which had been received in fifteen.

The ship could not be got near to the land
before the afternoon of the llth. At four P.M.
we hove to, opposite to, and about five miles
distant from, the spot on which we had first
struck on Saturday. Every glass was directed
along the shore (as they had been throughout the
day,) to discover any trac� of our absent consort;
but, as none was seen, our solicitude respecting
her was much increased, and we feared the crew
might be wrecked on this inhospitable shore.
Guns were frequently fired to apprize any who
might be near of our approach ; but, as no one
appeared, and no signal was returned, and the
loose ice was setting down towards the ship, we
bore up to proceed to the next appointed rendez-
vous. At 8 P.M. we were abreast of the S.W.
end of the island called Cape Resolution, which
is a low point, but indicated at a distance by a
lofty round backed hill that rises above it. We,
entered. Hudsori's Straits goon

23 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The coast of Resolution Island should be ap-
proached with caution, as the tides appear to be
strong and uncertain in their eourse. S©me
dangerous rocks lie above and below the water's
edge, at the distance of five or six miles from
East Bluff, bearing S. 32° E.

August 12.�Having had a fresh gale through
the night, we reached Saddleback Island by noon
�the place of rendezvous; and looked anxiously,
but in vain, for the Wear. Several guns were
fired, supposing she might be hid from our view
by the land; but, as she did not appear, Captain
Davidson, having remained two hours, deemed
further delay inexpedient, and bore up to keep
the advantage of the fair wind. The outline of
this island is rugged; the hummock on its northern
extremity appeared to me to resemble a decayed
rnartello tower more than a saddle.

Azimuths were obtained this evening that gave
the variation 58° 45' W., which is greater than is
laid down in the charts, or than the officers of the
Hudson's Bay ships have been accustomed to
allow. We arrived abreast of the Upper Savage
Island early in the morning, and as the breeze
was moderate, the ship was steered as near to
the shore as the wind would permit, to give the
Esquimaux inhabitants an opportunity of coming
offto barter, which they soon embraced.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 87

Their shouts at a distance intimated their ap-
proach some time before we described the canoes
paddling towards us; the headmost of them
reached us at eleven; these were quickly fol-
lowed by others, and before noon about forty
canoes, each holding one man, were assembled
around the two ships. In the afternoon, when
we approached nearer to the shore, five or six
larger ones, containing the women and children,
came up.

The Esquimaux immediately evinced their de-
sire to barter, and displayed no small cunning in
making their bargains, taking care not to ex-
hibit too many articles at first. Their principal
commodities were, oil, sea-horse teeth, whale-
bone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots, deer-
skins and horns, and models of their canoes ; and
they received in exchange small saws, knives,
nails, tin-kettles, and needies. It was pleasing
to behold the exultation, and to hear the shouts
of the whole party, when an acquisition was
made by any one; and not a little ludicrous to
behold the eagerness with which the fortunate
person licked each article with his tongue, on
receiving it, as a finish to the bargain, and an
act of appropriation. They in no instance omitted
this strange practice, ho we ver small the article;
the needies even passed individually through the

28 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ceremony. ,The women brought imitations of
men, women, animals, and birds, carved with
labour and ingenuity out of sea-horse teeth. The
dresses, and the figures of the animals, were not
badly executed, but there was no attempt at the
delineation of the countenances; and most of
the figures were without eyes, ears, and fingers,
the execution of which would, perhaps, have
required more delicate instruments than they
possess. The men set most value on saws;
huttee-swa-bak, the name by which they dis-
tinguish them, was a constant cry. Knives were
held next in estimation. An old sword was
bartered from the Eddystone, and I shall long re-
member the universal burst of joy on the happy
man's receiving it. It was delightful to witness
the general interest excited by individual acqui-
sitions. There was no desire shewn by any one
to over-reach his neighbour, or to press towards
any part of the ship where a bargain was making,
until the person in possession of the place had
completed his exchange and removed; and, if any
article happened to be demanded from the outer
canoes, the men nearest assisted willingly in
passing the thing across. Supposing the party
to belong to one tribe, the total number of the
tribe must exceed two hundred persons, as there,
, probably, one huridred and fifty around tbs

OF THE POLA.R SEA. 29

ships, and few of these were elderly persons, or
male children.

Their faces were broad and flat, the eyes
small. The men were in general stout. Some
of the younger women and the children had rather
pleasing countenances, but the difference between
these and the more aged of that sex, bore strong
testimony to the effects which a few years produce
in this ungenial climate. Most of the party had
sore eyes, all of them appeared of a plethoric habit
of body ; several were observed bleeding at the
nose during their stay near the ship. The men's
dresses consisted of a jacket of seal-skin, the
trowsers of bear-skin, andseveral hadcaps of the
white fox-skin. The female dresses were made
of the same materials, but diff�rently shaped,
having a hood in which the infants were carried.
We thought their manner very lively and agree-
able. They were fond of mimicking our speech
and gestures ; but nothing afforded them greater
amusement than when we attempted to retaliate
by pronouncing any of their words.

The canoes were of seal-skin, and similar in
every respect to those used by the Esquimaux in
Greenland ; they were generally new and very
complete in their appointments. Those appro-
priated to the women are of ruder construction,
and only calculated for fine weather; they are,

30 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

however, useftil vessels, being capable of contain-
ing twenty persons with their luggage. An el-
derly man officiates as steersman, and the women
paddie, but they have also a mast which carries
a sail, made of dressed whale-gut.

When the women had disposed of all their ar-
ticles of trade they resorted to entreaty ; and the
putting in practice of many enticing gestures was
managed with so much address, as to procure
them presents of a variety of beads, needles, and
other articles in great demand among females.

It is probable these Esquimaux go from this
shore to some part of Labrador to pass the win-
ter, as parties of them have been frequently seen
by the horneward-bound Hudson's Bay ships in
the act of crossing the Strait.

They appear to speak the same language as
the tribe of Esquimaux, who reside near to the
Moravian settlements in Labrador: for we per-
eeived they used several of the words which had
been giventous by theMissionaries atStromness.

Towards evening, the Captain, being desirous
to get rid of his visitors, took an efFectual method
by tacking from the shore ; our friends then de-
parted apparently in high glee at the harvest they
had reaped. They paddled away very swiftly,
andwould, doubtless.soonreachthe shore though
it was distant ten or twelve miles.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 31

Not -having encountered any of the ice, which
usually arrests the progress of ships in their out-
ward passage through the Straits, and being con-
sequently deprived of the usual means of reple-
nishing our stock of water, which had become short,
the Captain resolved on going to the coast of La-
brador for a supply. Dr. Richardson and I gladly
embraced this opportunity to land, and examine
this part of the coast. I was also desirous to
observe the variation on shore, as the azimuths,
which had been taken on board both ships since
our entrance into the Straits, had shewn a greater
amount than we had been led to expect; but,
unluckily, the sun became obscured. The beach
consisted of large rolled stones of gneiss and
sienite, amongst which many pieces of ice had
grounded, and it was with difficulty that we ef-
fected a landing in a small cove under a steep
cliff. These stones were worn perfectly smooth;
neither in the interstices, nor at the bottom of the
water, which was very clear, were there any ves-
tiges of sea-weed.

The cliff was from forty to fifty feet high and
quite perpendicular, and had at its base a small
slip of soil formed of the debris of a bed of clay-
slate. Prom this narrow spot Dr. Richardson
collected specimens of thirty different species of
plants; and we were about to scramble up a

32 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

shelving part of the rock, and go into the interior,
when we perceived the signal of recall, which the
master had caused to be made, in consequence of
a sudden change in the appearance of the weather.

On the evening of the 19th, we passed Digge's
Islands, the terminationofHudson's Strait. Here
the Eddystone parted company, being bound to
Moose Factory, at the bottom of the Bay. A
strong north wind came on, which prevented our
getting roimd the north end of Mansfield; and,
as it continued to blow with equal strength for the
next five days, we were most vexatiously detained
in beating along the Labrador coast, and near
the dangerous chain of islands, the Sleepers, which
are said to extend from the latitude of 60° 10' to
57° 00' N. The press ofsail, which of necessity
we carried, caused the leak to increase, and the
pumps were kept in constant use.

A favouring wind at length enabled us, on the
25th, to shape our course across Hudson's Bay.
Nothing worthy of remark occurred during this
passage, except the rapid decrease in the varia-
tion of the magnetic needie. The few remarks
respecting the appearance of the land, which
we were able to make in our quick passage
through these Straits, were transmitted to the
Admiralty; but, as they will not be interesting
to the general reader, and may not be suf-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 33

ficiently accurate for the guidance of the Navi-
gator, th©y are omitted in this narrative.

On the 28th we discovered the land to the
southward of Cape Tatnam, which is so ex-
tremely low, that the tops of the trees were first
discerned; the soundings at the time were seven-
teen fathoms, which gradually decreased to five
as the shore was approached. 'Cape Tatnam is
not otherwise remarkable than as being the point
from which the coast inclines rather more to the
westward towards York Factory.

The opening of the morning of the SOth pre-
sented to our view the anchorage at York Flats,
and the gratifying sight of a vessel at anchor,
which we reeognised, after an anxious examina-
tion, to be the Wear. A strong breeze blowing
from the direction of the Flats, caused the water
to be more shallow than usual on the sandy bar,
which lies on the seaward side of the anchorage,
and we could not get over it before two P.M.,
when the tide was nearly at its height.

Immediately after our arrival, Mr. Williams,
the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company's
posts, came on board, accompanied by the Com-
mander of the Wear. The pleasure we feit in
welcoming the latter gentleman ean easily be-
imagined, when it is considered what reason we
had for the apprehension that h� and his crew

VOL. I. D

M JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

had been numbered with the dead. We learned
that one of the larger masses of ice had provi-
dentially drifted between the vessel's side and
the rocks just at the time h� expected to strike,
to which h� secured her until a breeze sprang up,
and enabled him to pursue his voyage.

The Governor acquainted me that h� had re-
eeived information from the Committee of the
Hudson's Bay Company of the equipment of the
Expedition, and that the officers would come out
in the first ship. In the evening Dr. Richardson,
Mr. Hood, and I, accompanied the Governor to
York Factory, which we reached after dark; it is
distant from the Flats seven miles. Early next
morning the Governor conferred the honour of a
salute on the members of the Expedition.

Having communicated to the Governor the
objects of the Expedition, and that I had been
directed to consult with him and the senior
servants of the Company as to the best mode
of proceeding towards the execution of the ser-
vice, I was gratified by his assurance that his
instructions from the Committee directed that
every possible assistance should be given to
ibrward our progress, and that h� should feel
peculiar pleasure in performing this part of his
duty. He introduced me at once to Messrs.
Charles, Swaine, and Snodie, masters of dis-

OF THE POLAR SEA. :, 35

tricts, who, from long residence in the country,
were perfectly acquainted with the different modes
of travelling, and the obstructions which might
be anticipated. At the desir� of these gentlemen,
I drew up a series of questions on the points on
which we required information; to which, two
days afterwards, they had the kindness to return
very explicit and satisfactory answers; and on
receiving them I requested the Governor to favour
me with his sentiments on the same subject in
writing, which h� delivered to me on the fo�-
lowing day.

Having learned that Messrs. Shaw, M'Tavish,
and several other partners of the N.W. Com-
pany, were under detention at this place, we
tookjfthe fearliest opportunity of visiting thein ;
when, having presented the general circular, and
other introductory letters, with which I had been
furnished by their agent, Mr. Simon M'G�livray,
we received from them the most friendly and fuli
assurance of the cordial endeavours of the win-
tering partners of their Company to promote the
interests of the Expedition. The knowledge we
had now gained of the state of the violent com-
mercial opposition existing in the country, rea»
dered this assurance highly gratifying; and
these gentlemen added to the obligation by
freely communicating the information respecting

D 2

36 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the interior of the country, which their intelli-
gence and long residence so fully qualified thern
to give.

I deemed it expedient to issue a memorandum
to the officers of the Expedition, strictly pro-
hibiting any interference whatever in the exist-
ing quarrels, or any that might arise, between
the two Companies ; and on presenting it to the
principals of both the parties, they expressed
their satisfaction at the step I had taken.

The opinions of all the gentlemen were so
decidedly in favour of the route by Cumberland
House, and through the chain of posts to the
Great Slave Lake, that I determined on pur-
suing it, and immediately communicated my
intention to the Governor, with a request that h�
would furnish me with the means of conveyance
for the party as speedily as possible.

It was suggested in my instructions, that we
might probably procure a schoener at this place,
to proceed north as far as Wager Bay; but the
vessel alluded to was lying at Moose Factory,
oompletely out of repair ; independently of which,
the route directly to the northward was rendered
impracticable by the impossibility of procuring
hunters and guides.upon the coast.

I found that as the Esquimaux inhabitants had
left Churchill a month previous to our arrival, no

OF THE POLAR SEA. 3T

interpreter from that quarter could be procured
before their return in the following spring. Th�
Governor, however, undertook to forward to us,
next season, the only one amongst them who un-
derstood English, if h� could be induced to go.

The governor selected one of the largest of the
Company's boats for our use on the journey, and
directed the carpenters to commence refitting it
immediately; but h� was only able to furnish us
with a steersman ; and we were obliged to make
up the rest of the crew with the boatmen brought
froin Stromness, and our two attendants.

York Factory, the principal depot of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, stands on the west bank of
Hayes' River, about five miles above its mouth,
on the marshy peninsula which separates the
Hayes and Nelson rivers. The surrounding
country is flat and swampy, and covered with
willows, poplars, larch, spruce, and birch trees ;
but the requisition for fuel has expended all the
wood in the vicinity of the fort, and the residents
have now to send a considerable distance for this
necessary material. The soil is alluvial clay, and
contains imbedded rolled stones. Though the
bank of the river is elevated about twenty feet, it
is frequently overflown by the spring floods, and
large portions of it are annually carried away
by the disruption of the ice ; by these portions

$8 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

gr�U�iding in the stream, several muddy islands
have beenformed. These interruptions, together
with the various collections of stones that are hid
at high water, render the navigation of the river
difficult; but vessels of two hundred tons burthen
��iay be broilght through the proper channels as
high as the Factory.

The principal buildings are placed in the form
of a square, having an octagonal court in the cen-
tre ; they are two stories in height, and have flat
roofs covered with lead. The officers dweil in
one portion of this square, and in the other
parts the articles of merchandise are kept: the
workshops, storehouses for the furs, and the ser-
vants' houses, are ranged on the outside of the
Square, and the whole is surrounded by a stock-
ade twenty feet high. A platform is laid from
the house to the pier on the bank for the con-
venience of transporting the stores and furs, which
is the only promenade the residents have on this
marshy spot during the summer season. The
few Indians, who now frequent this establishment,
belong to the Swampy Crees. There were several
�f them encamped on the outside of the stockade.
Their tents were rudely constructed by tying
twenty or thirty poles together at the top, and
spreading them out at the base so as to form a
�one; these were covered with dressed moose-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 39

skins. The fire is placed in the centre, and a
hole is left for the escape of the smoke. The
inmates had a squalid look, and were suffering
under the combined afflictions of hooping-cough
and measles ; but even these miseries did not
keep them from an excessive indulgence in the
use of spirits, which they unhappily can procure
from the traders with too much facility ; and they
nightly serenaded us with their monotonous
drunken songs. Their sickness, at this time, was
particularly feit by the traders, this being the
season of the year when the exertion of every
hunter is required to procure their winter's stock
of geese, which resort in immense flocks to the
extensive flats in this neighbourhood. These
birds, during the summer, retire far to the north,
and breed in security ; but, when the approach of
winter compels them to seek a more southern
climate, they generally alight on the marshes of
this bay, and fatten there for three weeks or a
month, before they take their final departure from
the country. They also make a short halt at the
same spots in their progress northwards in the
spring. Their arrival is welcomed with joy, and
the period of the goose kunt is one of the most
plentiful seasons of the year. The ducks frequent
the swamps all the summer.

The weather was extremely unfavourable for

4tt JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

�». �

celestial observations during our stay, and it was
only by watching the momentary appearances of
the sun, that we were enabled to obtain fresh
rates for the chronometers, and allow for their
errors from Greenwich time. The dip of the
needie was observed to be 79° 29' 07", and the
difference produced by reversing the face of the
instrument was 11° 3' 40". A succession of fresh
breezes prevented our ascertaining the intensity
of the magnetic force. The position of York
Factory, by our observations, is in latitude 57°
0(X 03" N., longitude 92° 26' W. The variation
of the compass 6° 00' 21" E.

OF THE POLAR SEA, 4»

CHAPTER II.

Passage up Hayes', Steel, and Hill Rivers�Cross Swampy Lake�
Jack River�Knee Lake and Magnetic Islet�Trout River�
Holey Lake�Weepinapannis River�Windy Lake�White-Fall
Lake and River�Echemamis and Sea Rivei-s�Play-Green Lakes
�Lake Winipeg'�River Saskatchawan�Cross, Cedar, and Pine-
Island Lakes�Cumberland House.

September. ON the 9th of September, our boat
being completed, arrangements were made for
our departure as soon as the tide should serve.
But, when the stores were brought down to the
beach, it was found that the boat would not con-
tain them all. The whole, therefore, of the bacon,
and part of the flour, rice, tobacco, and ammuni-
tion, were returned into the store. The bacon
was too bulky an article to be forwarded under
any circumstances; but the Governor undertook
to forward the rest next season. In making the
selection of articles to carry with us, I was guided
by the judgment of Governor Williams, who as-
sured me that tobacco, ammunition, and spirits,
cov�d be procured in the interior, otherwise I
should have been very unwilling to have left

48 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

these essential articles behind. We embarked at
noon, and were honoured with a salute of eight
guns and three cheers from the Governor and
all the inmates of the fort, who had assembled to
witness our departure. We gratefully returned
their cheers, and then made sail, much delighted
at having now commenced our voyage into the
interior of America. The wind and tide failing
us at the distance of six miles above the Factory,
and the current being too rapid for using oars to
advantage, the crew had to commence tracking,
or dragging the boat by a line, to which they
were harnessed. This operation is extremeiy
laborious in these rivers, Our men were obliged
to walk along the steep declivity of a high bank,
rendered at this season soft and slippery by fre-
quent rains, and their progress was often further
impeded by fallen trees, which, having slipped
from the verge of the thick wood above, hung on
the face of the bank in a great variety of direc-
tions. Notwithstanding these obstacles, however,
we advanced at the rate of two miles an hour,
one-half of the crew relieving the other at inter-
vals of an hour and a half. The banks of the
river, and its islands, composed of alluvial soil,
are well covered with pines, larches, poplars,
and willows. The breadth of the stream, some
distance above the Factory, is about half a mile,

OF THE POLAR SEA. «

and its depth, during this day's voyage, varied
from three to nine feet.

At sunset we landed, and pitched the tent for
the night, having made a- progress of twelve
miles. A large fire was quickly kindled, supper
speedily prepared, and as readily despatched,
when we retired with our buffalo robes on, and
enjoyed a night of sound repose.

It may here be stated, that the survey of the
river was made by taking the bearings of every
point with a pocket compass, estimating the dis-
tances, and making a connected eye-sketch of the
whole. This part of the survey was allotted to
Messrs. Back and Hood conjointly: Mr. Hood
also protracted the route every evening on a
ruled map, after the courses and distances had
been corrected by observations for latitude and
longitude, taken by myself as often as the weather
would allow. The extraordinary talent of this
young officer in this line of service proved of the
greatest advantage to the expedition, and h� con-
t-inued to perform that duty until his lamented
death, with a degree of zeal and accuracy that
characterized all his pursuits.

The next morning our camp was in motion at
five A.M., and we soon afterwards embarked
with the flattering accompaniment of a fair wind:
it proved, however, too light to enable us to stem

fi JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the stream, and we were obliged to resum� the
fatiguingoperation of tracking; sometimes under
cliffs so steep that the men could scarcely find a
footing, and not unfrequently over spots rendered
so miry by the small streams that trickled from
above, as to be almost impassable. In the course
of the day we passed the sc�ne of a very melan-
choly accident. Some years ago, two families of
Indians, induced by the flatness of a small beach,
which lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose it
as the site of their encampment. They retired
quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice, de-
tached from the bank, and urged by an accumu-
lation of water in the crevice behind, was tottering
to its base. It feh¹ during the night, and the whole
party was buried under its ruins.

The length of our voyage to-day was, in a
direct line, sixteen miles and a quarter, on a
S.S.W. course. We encamped soon after sunset,
and the tent was scarcely pitched when it began
to rain heavily, and continued to do so all night.

Sixteen miles on the llth, and five on the fol-
lowing morning, brought us to the commencement
of Hayes' River, which is formed by the con-
fluence of the Shamattawa and Steel Rivers.
Our observations place this spot in latitude
56° 22' 32" N., longitude 93° l' 37" W. It is
forty-eight miles and a half from York Factory,

OF THE POLAR SEA. 45

including the windings of the river. Steel River,
through which our course lay, is about three
hundred yards wide at its mouth; its banks have
more elevation than those of Hayes' River, but
they shelve more gradually down to the stream,
and afford a tolerably good towing path, which
compensates, in some degree, for the rapids and
frequent shoals that impede its navigation. We
succeeded in getting about ten miles above the
mouth of the river, before the close of day com-
pelled us to disembark.

We made an effort, on the morning of the 13th,
to stem the current under sail, but as the course
of the river was very serpentine, we found that
greater progress could be made by tracking.
Steel River presents much beautiful scenery;
it winds through a narrow, but well wooded,
valley, which at every turn disclosed to us an
agreeable variety of prospect, rendered more
picturesque by the effect of the season on the
foliage, now ready to drop from the trees. The
light yellow of the fading poplars formed a fine
contrast to the dark evergreen of the spruce, whilst
the willows of an intermediate hue, served to
shade the two principal masses of colour into
each other. The sc�ne was occasionally enli-
vened by the bright purple tints of the dogwood;
blended with the browner shades of the dwarf

4» JO�KNEY TO THE SHORES

birch, and frequently intermixed with the gay
yellow flowers of the shrubby cinquefoil. With
all these charms, the sc�ne appeared desolate
from the want of the human species. The still-
ness was so great, that even the twittering of the
whiskey-johneesh, or cinereous crow, caused us to
start. Our voyage to-day was sixteen miles on
a S.W. eourse.

Sept. 19.�We had much rain during the night,
and also in the morning, which detained us in our
encampment later than usual. We set out as
soon as the weather cleared up ; and in a short
time arrived at the head of Steel River, where it
is formed by the junction of Fox and Hill Riveiis.
These two rivers are nearly of equal width, but
the latter is the most rapid. Mr. M'Donald, on
his way to Red River, in a small canoe, manned
by two Indians, overtook us at this place. It
may be mentioned as a proof of the dexterity of
the Indians, and the skill with which they steal
upon their game, that they had on the preceding
day, with no other arms than a hatehet, killed
two deer, a hawk, a curlew» and a sturgeon.
Three of the Company's boats joined us in the
eourse of the morning,"and we pursued our eourse
up Hill River in coinpany. The water in this
river was so low, and the rapids so bad, that we
were obliged several times, in the eourse of the

OF THE POLAR &EA. f?

day, to jump into the water, and assist in lifting
the boat over the large stones which irapeded the
navigation. The length of our voyage to-day
was only six miles and three quarters.

The four boats commenced operations together
at five o'clock the following morning; but our boat
being overladen, we soon found that we were un-
able to keep pace with the others ; and, therefore,
proposed to the gentlemen in charge of the Com-
pany's boats, that they should relieve us of part
of our cargo. This they declined doing, under
the plea of not having received orders to that
effect, notwithstanding that the circular, with
which I was furnished by Governor Williams,
strictly enjoined all the Company's servants to
afford us every assistance. In consequence of
this refusal we dropt behind, and our steersman,
who was inexperienced, being thus deprived of
the advantage of observing the route followed by
the guide, who was in the foremost boat, fre-
qaently took a wrong channel. The tow-line
broke twice, and the boat was only prevented
from going broadside down the stream, and
breaking to pieces against the stones, by the
officers and men leaping into the water, and hold-
ing her head to the current until the line could be
earried again to the shore. It is but justice to
gay, that in these trying situations, we received

48 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

much assistance from Mr. Thomas Swaine, who
with great kindness waited for us with the boat
under his charge at such places as h� appre-
hended would be most difficult to pass. We en-
camped at sunset, completely jaded with toil.
Our distance made good this day was twelve
miles and a quarter.

The labours of the 16th commenced at half
past five, and for some time the difficulty of
getting the boats over the rapids was equal to
what we experienced yesterday. Having passed
a small brook, however, termed Half-way Creek,
the river became deeper, and although rapid, it
was smooth enough to be named by our Orkney
boatmen Still-water. We were further relieved
by the Company's clerks consenting to take a
few boxes of our stores into their boats. Still we
made only eleven miles in the course of the day.

The banks of Hill River are higher, and have
a more broken outline, than those of Steel or
Hayes' Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose
in some places to the height of eighty or ninety
feet above the stream, and were surmounted by
hills about two hundred feet high, but the thick-
ness of the wood prevented us from seeing far
beyond the mere banks of the river.

September 17.�About half past five in the
morning we commenced tracking, and soon came

OF THE POL AR S E A. 49

to a ridge of rock which extended across the
stream. From this place the boat was dragged
up several narrow rocky channels, until we came
to the Rock Portage, where the stream, pent in
by a range of small islands, forms several cas-
cades. In ascending the river, the boats with
their cargoes are carried over one of the islands,
but in the descent they are shot down the most
shelving of the cascades. Having performed the
operations of carrying, launching, and re-stowing
the cargo, we plied the oars for a short distance
and landed at a depot called Rock House. Here
we were informed that the rapids in the upper
parts of Hill River were much worse and more
numerous than those we had passed, particularly
in the present season, owing to the unusual low-
ness of the water. This intelligence was very
mortifying, especially as the gentlemen in charge
of the Company's boats declared that they were
unable to carry any part of our stores beyond
this place; and the traders, guides, and most ex-
perienced of the boatmen, were of opinion, that
unless our boat was still further lightened, the
winter would put a stop to our progress before
we could reach Cumberland House, or any eligi-
ble post. Sixteen pieces were therefore necessa-
rily left with Mr. Bunn, the gentleman in charge

VOL. I. E

50 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

of the post, to be forwarded by the Athabasca
canoes next season, this being their place of ren-
dezvous.

After this we recommenced our voyage, and
having pulled nearly a mile, arrived at Borro-
wick's Fall, where the boat was dragged up with
a line, after part of the cargo had been carried
over a small portage. From this place to the
Mud Portage, a distance of a mile and three
quarters, the boats were pushed on with poles
against a very rapid stream. Here we encamped,
having come seven miles during the day on a
S.W. course. We had several snow showers in
the course of the day, and the thermometer at
bed-time stood at 30°.

On the morning of the 18th, the country was
clothed in the livery of winter, a heavy fall of
snow having taken place during the night. We
embarked at the usual hour, and, in the course of
the day, crossed the Point of Rocks and Brassa
Portages, and dragged the boats through several
minor rapids. In this tedious way we only made
good about nine miles.

On Sunday the 19th we hauled the boats up
several short rapids, or, as the boatmen term
them, expressively enough, spouts, and carried
mem over the Portages of Lower Burntwood and

OF THE POLAR SE A. 51

Morgan's Rocks; on the latter of which we en-
camped, having proceeded, during the whole day,
only one mile and three quarters.

The upper part of Hill River swells out con-
siderably, and at Morgan's Rocks, where it is
three quarters of a mile wide, we were gratified
with a more extensive prospect of the country
than any we had enjoyed since leaving York
Factory. The banks of the river here, consisting
of low flat rocks with intermediate swamps, per-
mitted us to obtain views of the interior, the sur-
face of which is broken into a multitude of cone-
shaped hills. The highest of these hills, which
gives a name to the river, has an elevation not
exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit,
thirty-six lakes are said to be visible. The
beauty of the scenery, dressed in the tints of
autumn, called forth our admiration, and was the
subject of Mr. Hood's accurate pencil. On the
20th we passed Upper Burntwood and Rocky
Ledge Portages, besides several strong spouts ;
and in the evening arrived at Smooth Rock Por-
tage, where we encamped, having come three
miles and a half. It is not easy for any but an
eye-witness to form an adequate idea of the ex-
ertions of the Orkney boatmen in the navigation
of this river. The necessity they are under of
frequently jumping into the water to lift the boats

E 2

52 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

over the rocks, compels them to remain the whole
day in wet clothes, at a season when the tempe-
rature is far below the freezing point. The im-
mense loads too, which they carry over the por-
tages, is not more a matter of surprise than the
alacrity with which they perform these laborious
duties.

At six on the morning of the 21 st, we left our
encampment, and soon after arrived at the Mossy
Portage, where the cargoes were carried through
a deep bog for a quarter of a mile. The river
swells out, above this portage, to the breadth of
several miles, and as the islands are numerous
there are a great variety of channels. Night
overtook us before we arrived at the Second
Portage, so named from its being the second
in the passage down the river. Our whole dis-
tance this day was one mile and a quarter.

On the 22d our route led us amongst many
wooded islands, which, lying in long vistas, pro-
duced sc�nes of much beauty. In the course of
the day we crossed the Upper Portage, sur-
mounted the Devi�'s Landing Place, and urged
the boat with poles through Groundwater Creek.
At the upper end of this creek, our bowman
having given the boat too broad a sheer, to avoid
the rock, it was caught on the broadside by the
current, and, in defiance of our utmost exertions,

OP THE POLAR S�A_S 53

hurried down the rapid. Fortunately, however,
it grounded against a rock high enough to pre-
vent the current from oversetting it, and the
crews of the other boats having come to our
assistance, we succeeded, after several trials, in
throwing a rope to them, with which they dragged
our almost siriking vessel stern foremost up the
stream, and rescued us from our perilous situa-
tion. We encamped in the dusk of the evening
amidst a heavy thunder-storm, having ad vaneed
two miles and three quarters.

About ten in the morning of the 23d we ar-
rived at the Dramstone, which is hailed with
pleasure by the boats' crews, as markirig the ter-
mination of the laborious ascent of Hill River.
We complied with the custom from whence it
derives its name, and soon after landing upon
Sail Island prepared breakfast. In the mean
time our boatmen cut down and rigged a new
mast, the old one having been thrown over-
board at the mouth of Steel River, where it
ceased to be useful. We left Sail Island with
a fair wind, and soon afterwards arrived at a
depot situated on Swampy Lake, where we re-
ceived a supply of mouldy pemmican *. Mr.
Calder and his attendant were the only tenants
of this cheerless abode, and their only food was

* Buffalo meat, dried and pounded, and mixed with melted fat.

54 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the wretched stuff with which they supplied us,
the lake not yielding fish at this season, After a
short delay at this post, we sailed through the
remainder of Swampy Lake, and slept at the
Lower Portage in Jack River; the distance sailed
to-day being sixteen miles and a half.

Jack River is only eight miles long ; but being
full of bad rapids, it detained us considerably.
At seven in the morning of the 24th, we crossed
the Long Portage, where the woods, having
caught fire in the summer, were still smoking.
This is a common accident, owing to the neglect
of the Indians and voyagers in not putting out
their fires, and in a dry season the woods may
be seen blazing to the extent of many miles,.
We afterwards crossed the Second, or Swampy
Portage, and in the evening encamped on the
Upper Portage, where we were overtaken by an
Indian bringing an answer from Governor Wil-
liams to a letter I had written to him on the
15th, in which h� renewed his injunctions to the
gentlemen of the boats accompanying us, to
afford us every assistance in their power. The
Aurora Borealis appeared this evening in form
of a bright arch, extending across the zenith in a
N.W. and S. E. direction. The extent of our
voyage to-day was two miles.

About noon, on the 25th, we entered Knee

OF THE POLAR SEA. 55

Lake, which has a very irregular form, and near
its middle takes a sudden turn, from wlience it
derives its name. It is thickly studded with
islands, and its shores are low and well-wooded.
The surrounding country, as far as we could see,
is flat, being destitute even of the moderate ele-
vations which occur near the upper part of Hill
River. The weather was remarkably fine, and
the setting sun threw the richest tints over the
sc�ne that I remember ever to have witnessed.

About half a mile from the bend or knee of
the lake, there is a small rocky islet, composed
of magnetic iron ore, which affects the magnetic
needie at a considerable distance. Having re-
ceived previous information respecting this cir-
cumstance, we watched our compasses carefully,
and perceived that they were afFected at the dis-
tance of three hundred yards, both on the ap-
proach to and departure from the rock: on de-
creasing the distance, they became gradually
more and more unsteady, and on landing they
were rendered quite useless ; and it was evident
that the general magnetic influence was totally
overpowered by the local attraction of the ore.
When Kater's compass was held near to the
ground on the N. W. side of the island, the needie
dipped so much that the card could not be made
to traverse by any adjustment of the hand ; but

68 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

on moving the same compass about thirty yards
to the west part of the islet, the needie became
horizontal, traversed freely, and pointed to the
magnetic north. The dipping needie being landed
on the S. W. point of the islet, was adjusted as
nearly as possible on the magnetic meridian by
the sun's bearings, and found to vibrate freely,
when the face of the instrument was directed to
the east or west. The mean dip it gave was
80° 37' 50". When the instrument was removed
from the N. W. to the S.E. point, about twenty
yards distant, and placed on the meridian, the
needie ceased to traverse, but remained steady
at an angle of 60°. On changing the face of the
instrument, so as to give a S.E. and N.W.
direction to the needie, it hung vertically. The
position of the slaty strata of the magnetic ore is
also vertical. Their direction is extremely irre-
gular, being much contorted.

Knee Lake towards its upper end becomes
narrower, and its rocky sh�res are broken into
conical and rounded eminences, destitute of soil,
and of course devoid of trees. We slept at the
western extremity of the lake, having come during
the day nineteen miles and a half on a S.W.
course.

We began the ascent of Trout River early in
the morning of the 27th, and in the course of the

OP THE POLAR SEA, 57

day passed three portages and several rapids.
At the first of these portages the river falls be-
tween two rocks about sixteen feet, and it is
necessary to launch the boat over a precipitous
rocky bank. This cascade is named the Trout-
Fall, and the beauty of the scenery afforded a
subject for Mr. Hood's pencil. The rocks which
form the bed of this river are slaty, and present
sharp fragments, by which the feet of the boat-
men are much lacerated. The Second Portage,
in particular, obtains the expressive name of
Knife Portage. The length of our voyage to-day
was three miles.

On the 28th we passed through the remainder
of Trout River ; and, at noon, arrived at Oxford
House, on Holey Lake. This was formerly a
post of some consequence to the Hudson's Bay
Company, but at present it exhibits unequivocal
signs of decay. The Indians have of late years
been gradually deserting the low or swampy
country, and ascending the Saskatchawan, where
animals are more abundant. A few Crees were
at this time encamped in front of the fort. They
were suffering under the combined maladies of
hooping-cough and measles, and looked miserably
dejected. We endeavoured in vain to prevail on
one of them to accompany us for the purpose of
killing ducks, which were numerous, but too shy

68 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

For our sportsmen. We had the satisfaction,
however, of exchanging the mouldy pemmican,
obtained at Swampy Lake, for a better kind, and
rec�ived, moreover, a small, but very acceptable,
supply of fish. Holey Lake, viewed from an emi-
nence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing
prospect; and its numerous islands, varying much
in shape and elevation, contribute to break that
uniformity of scenery which proves so palling to
a traveller in this country. Trout of a great size,
frequentlyexceedingforty pounds' weight, abound
in this lake. We left Oxford House in the after-
noori, and encamped on an island about eight
miles' distant, having come, during the day, nine
miles and a quarter.

At noon, on the 29th, after passing through the
remainder of Holey Lake, we entered the Weepi-
napannis, a narrow grassy river, which runs
parallel to the lake for a considerable distance,
and forms its south bank into a narrow peninsula.
In the morning we arrived at the Swampy Portage,
where two of the boats were broken against the
rocks. The length of the day's voyage was nine-
teen miles and a half.

In consequence of the accident yesterday even-
ing, we were detained a considerable time this
morning, until the boats were repaired, when we
set out, and, after ascending a strong rapid, arrived

OF THE POLAR SEA. 59

at the portage by John Moore's �sland. Here the
river rushes with irresistible force through the
channels formed by two rocky islands; and we
learned, that last year a poor man, in hauling a
boat up one of these channels, was, by the break-
ing of the line, precipitated into the stream and
hurried down the cascade with such rapidity, that
all efforts to save him were ineffectual. « His
body was afterwards found and interred near
the spot.

The Weepinapannis is composed of several
branches which separate and unite, again and
again, intersecting the country in a great variety
of directions. We pursued the principal chan-
nel, and having passed the Crooked Spout, with
several inferior rapids, and crossed a small piece
of water, named Windy Lake, we entered a
smooth deep stream about three hundred yards
wide, which has got the absurd appellation of the
Rabbit Ground. The marshy banks of this river
are skirted by low barren rocks, behind which
there are some groups of stunted trees. As we
advanced, the country becoming flatter, gradually
opened to our view, and we at length arrived at
a shallow, reedy lake, the direct course through
which leads to the Hill Portage. This route has,
however, of late years been disused, and we there-
fore turned towards the north, and crossing a small

60 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

arm of the lake, arrived at Hill Gates by sunset;
having come this day eleven miles.

October l .��Hill Gates is the name imposed on
a romantic defile, whose rocky walls, rising per-
pendicularly to the height of sixty or eighty feet,
hem in the stream for three quarters of a mile, in
many places so narrowly, that there is a want of
room to ply the oars. In passing through this
chasm we were naturally led to contemplate the
mighty but, probably, slow and gradual eifects of
the water in wearing down such vast masses of
rock; but in the midst of our speculations, the at-
tention was excited anew to a grand and pic-
turesque rapid, which, surrounded by the most
wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile.
The brown fishing-eagle had built its nest on one
of the projecting cliffs. In the course of the day
we surmounted this and another dangerous
portage, called, the Upper and Lower Hill
Gate Portages, crossed a small sheet of water,
termed the White Fall Lake, and entering the
river of the same name, arrived at the White Fall
about an hour after sunset, having come fourteen
miles on a S. W. course.

The whole of the 2d of October was spent in
carrying the cargoes over a portage of thirteen
hundred yards in length, and in launching the
empty boats over three several ridges of rock

OF THE POLAR SEA. 61

which obstruct the channel and produce as many
cascades. I shall long remember the rude and
characteristic wildness of the scenery which sur-
rounded these falls; rocks piled on rocks hung
in rude and shapeless masses over the agitated
torrents which swept their bases, whilst the
bright and variegated tints of the mosses and
lichens, that covered the face of the cliffs, con-
trasting with the dark green of the pines, which
crowned their summits, added both beauty and
grandeur to the general effect of the sc�ne. Our
two companions, Back and Hood, made accurate
sketches of these falls. At this place we observed
aconspicuous lop-st�ck, a kind of land-mark, which
I have not hitherto noticed, notwithstanding its
great use in pointing out the frequented routes.
It is a pine-tree divested of its lower branches,
and having only a small tuft at the top remain-
ing. This operation is usually performed at the
instance of some individual emulous of fame.
He treats his companions with rum, and they in
return strip the tree of its branches, and ever
after designate it by his name.

In the afternoon, whilst on my way to super-
intend the operations of the men, a stratum of
loose moss gave way under my feet, and I had
the misfortune to slip from the summit of a rock
into the river, betwixt two of the falls. My at-

60 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

tempts to regain the bank were, for a time,
ineffectual, owing to the rocks within my reach
having been worn smooth by the action of the
water; but, after I had been carried a considerable
distance down the stream, I caught hold of a
willow, by which I held until two gentlemen of
the Hudson's Bay Company came in a boat to
my assistance. The only bad consequence of
this accident was an injury sustained by a very
valuable chronometer, (No. 1733,) belonging to
Daniel Moore, Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. One of
the gentlemen, to whom I delivered it imme-
diately on landing, in his agitation let it fall,
whereby the minute-hand was broken, but the
works were not in the smallest degree injured,
and the loss of the hand was afterwards sup-
plied.

During the night the frost was severe ; and at
sunrise, on the 3d, the thermometer stood at 25°.
After leaving our encampment at the White Fall,
we passed through several small lakes connected
with each other by narrow, deep, grassy streams,
and at noon arrived at the Painted Stone. Nuni-
bers of musk-rats frequent these streams; and we
observed, in the course of the morning, many of
their mud-houses rising in a conical form to the
height of two or three feet above the gras s of the
swarnps in which they were built.

OF THE POLAR SEA. C>3

The Painted Stone is a low rock, ten or twelve
yards across, remarkable for the marshy streams
which arise on each side of it, taking different
courses. On the one side, the water-course which
we had navigated from York Factory commences.
This spot may therefore be considered as one of
the smaller sources of Hayes' River. On the
other side of the stone the Echemamis rises, and
taking a westerly direction falls into Nelson
River. It, is said that there was formerly a
stone placed near the centre of this portage on
which figures were annually traced, and offerings
deposited, by the Indians; but the stone has been
removed many years, and the spot has ceased to
be held in veneration. Here we were overtaken
by Governor Williams, who left York Factory on
the 20th of last month in an Indian canoe. He
expressed much regret at our having been obliged
to leave part of our stores at the Rock depot, and
would have brought them up with him had h�
been able to procure and man a boat, or a canoe
of sufficient size.

Having launched the boats over the rock, we
commenced the descent of the Echemamis. This
small stream has its course through a morass, and
in dry seasons its channel contains, instead of
water, merely a foot or two of thin mud. On
these occasions it is customary to build dams,

64 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

that it may be rendered navigable by the accu-
mulation of its waters. As the beavers perform
this operation very effectually, endeavours have
been made to encourage them to breed in this
place, but it has not hitherto been possible to re-
stram the Indians from killing that useful animal
whenever they discover its retreats. On the pre-
sent occasion there was no want of water, the
principal impediment we experienced being from
the narrowness of the channel, which permitted
the willows of each bank to meet over our heads,
and obstruct the men at the oars. After proceed-
ing down the stream for some time, we came to a
recently-constructed beaver-damthrough which an
opening was made sufficient to admit the boat to
pass. We were assured that the breach would
be closed by the industrious creature in a single
night. We encamped about eight miles from the
source of the river, having come during the day
seventeen miles and a half.

On the 4th we embarked amidst a heavy rain,
and pursued our route down the Echemamis. In
many parts the morass, by which the river is
nourished, and through which it flows, is inter-
sected by ridges of rock which cross the channel,
and require the boat to be lifted over them. In
the afternoon we passed through a shallow piece
of water overgrown with bulrushes, and hence

OP THE POLAR SEA. 65

nattied Hairy Lake ; and, in the evening, en-
camped on the banks of Blackwater Creek, by
which this lake empties itself into Sea River;
having come during the day twenty miles and
three quarters.

On the morning of the 5th, we entered Sea
River, one of the many branches of Nelson River.
It is about four hundred yards wide, and its
waters are of a muddy white colour. After as-
cending the stream for an hour or two, and pass-
ing through Carpenter's Lake, which is merely
an expansion of the river to about a mile in
breadth, we came to the Sea River Portage,
where the boat was launched across a smooth
rock, to avoid a fall of four or five feet. Re-
embarking at the upper end of the portage, we
ran before a fresh gale through the remainder of
Sea River, the lower part of PJay Green Lake,
and entering Little Jack River, landed and pitched
our tents. Here there is a small log-hut, the
residence of a fisherman, who supplies Norway
House with trout and sturgeon. He gave us a
few of these fish, which afforded an acceptable
supper. The length of our voyage this day was
thirty-four miles.

October 6.�Little Jack River is the name
given to a channel that winds among several
large islands which separate Upper and Lower

VOL. I. F

6� JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Play Green Lakes. At the lower end of this
channe], Big Jack River, a stream of consider-
able magnitude, falls into the lake. Play Green
is a translation of the appellation given to that
lake by two bands of Indians, who met and held
a festival on an island situated near its centre.
After leaving our encampment we sailed through
Upper Play Green Lake, and arrived at Norway
Point in the forenoon.

The waters of Lake Winipeg, and of the
rivers that run into it, the Saskatchawan in par-
ticular, are rendered turbid by the suspension
of a large quantity of white clay. Play Green
Lake and Nelson River, being the discharges
of the Winipeg, are equally opaque, a circum-
stance that renders the sunken rocks, so fre-
quent in these waters, very dangerous to boats
in a fresh breeze. Owing to this, one of the
boats that accompanied us, sailing at the rate
of seven miles an hour, struck upon one of these
rocks. lts mast was carried away by the shock,
but fortunately no other damage sustained. The
Indians ascribe the muddiness of these lakes to
an adventure of one of their deities, a mischievous
fellow, a sort of Robin Puck, whom they hold
in very little esteem. This deity, who is named
Weesakootchaht, possesses considerable power,
but makes a capricious use of it, and delights

OP THE PO LA R SEA. 67

in tormenting the poor Indians. He is not, how-
ever, invincible, and was foiled in one of his
attempts by the artifice of an old woman, who
succeeded in taking him captive. She called in
all the women of the tribe to aid in his punish-
ment, and h� escaped from their hands in a con-
dition so filthy that it required all the waters of
the Great Lake to wash him clean; and ever
since that period it has been entitled to the ap-
pellation of Winipeg, or Muddy water.

Norway Point forms the extremity of a narrow
peninsula which separates Play Green and Wini-
peg Lakes. Buildings were first erected here
by a party of Norwegians, who were driven
away from the colony at Red River by the com-
motions which took place some time ago. It is
now a trading post belonging to the Hudson's
Bay Company. On landing at Norway House
we met with Lord Selkirk's colonists, who had
starled from York Factory the day before us.�
These poor people were exceedingly pleased at
meeting with us again in this wild country;
having accompanied them across the Atlantic,
they viewed us in the light of old acquaintances.
This post was under the charge of Mr. James
Sutherland, to whom I am indebted for replacing
a minute-hand on the chronometer, which was

68 JO�RNEY TO THE SHORES

broken at the White Fall, and I had afterwards
the satisfaction of finding that it went with ex-
traordinary regularity.

The morning of the 7th October was beautifully
clear, and the observations we obtained place
Norway House in latitude 53° 41' 38" N., and
longitude 98° l' 24" W. ; the variation of the
magnetic needie 14° 12' 41" E., and its dip
83° 40' l O". Though our route from York Factory
has rather inclined to the S.W., the dip, it will
be perceived, has gradually increased. The
difFerence produced by reversing the face of the
instrument was 7° 39'. There was too much
wind to admit of our observing, with any degree
of accuracy, the quantity of the magnetic force.

We left Norway House soon after noon, and
the wind being favourable, sailed along the
northern shore of Lake Winipeg the whole of
the ensuing night; and on the morning of the
8th landed on a narrow ridge of sand, which,
running out twenty miles to the westward, se-
parates Limestone Bay from the body of the
Lake. When the wind blows hard from the
southward, it is customary to carry boats across
this isthmus, and to pull up under its lee. From
Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore
ponsists of high clay cliffs, against which the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 69

waves beat with much violence during strong
southerly winds. When the wind blows from
the land, and the waters of the lake are low, a
narrow sandy beach is uncovered, and affords a
landing-place for boats. The shores of Lime-
stone Bay are covered with small fragments of
calcareous stones. During the night the Aurora
Borealis was quick in its motions, and various
and vivid in its colours. After breakfasting we
re-embarked, and continued our voyage until
three P.M., when a strong westerly wind arising,
we were obliged to shelter ourselves on a small
island, which lies near the extremity of the above-
mentioned peninsula. This island is formed of
a collection of small rolled pieces of limestone,
and was remembered by some of our boatmen
to have been formerly covered with water. For
the last ten or twelve years the waters of the
lake have been low, but our information did not
enable us to judge whether the decrease was
merely casual, or going on continually, or pe-
riodical. The distance of this island from Nor-
way House is thirty-eight miles and a half,

The westerly winds detained us all the morn-
ing of the 9th, but, at two P.M., the wind chopped
round to the eastward; we immediately em-
barked, and the breeze afterwards freshening,

70 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

we reached the mouth of the Saskatchawan at
midnight, having run thirty-two miles.

Sunday, October 10.�The whole of this day
was occupied in getting the boats from the mouth
of the river to the foot of the grand rapid, a
distance of two miles. There are several rapids
in this short distance, during which the river
varies its breadth from five hundred yards to
half a mile. lts channel is stony. At the grand
rapid, the Saskatchawan forms a sudden bend,
from south to east, and works its way through a
narrow channel, deeply worn into the limestone
strata. The stream, rushing with impetuous
force over a rocky and uneven bottom, presents
a sheet of foam, and seems to bear with im-
patience the straitened confinement of its lofty
banks. A flock of pelicans, and two or three
brown fishing eagles, were fishing in its agitated
waters, seemingly with great success. There
is a good sturgeon fishery at the foot of the
rapid. Several golden plovers, Canadian gros-
beaks, cross-bills, wood-peckers, and pin-tailed
grouse, were shot to-day; and Mr. Back killed
a small striped marmot. This beautiful little
animal was busily employed in carrying in its
distended pouches the seeds of the American
vetch to its winter hoards.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 71

The portage is eighteen hundred yards long,
and its western extemity was found to be in
53° 08' 25" North latitude, and 99° 28' 02" West
longitude. The route from Canada to the Atha-
basca joins that from York Factory at the
mouth of the Saskatchawan, and we saw traces
of a recent encampment of the Canadian voy-
agers. Our companions in the Hudson's Bay
boats, dreading an attack from their rivals in
trade, were on the alert at this place. They
examined minutely the spot of encampment, to
form a judgment of the number of canoes that
had preceded them ; and they advanced, armed,
and with great caution, through the woods.
Their fears, however, were fortunately, on this
occasion, groundless.

By noon, on the 12th, the boats and their
cargoes having been conveyed across the port-
age, we embarked, and pursued our course.
The Saskatchawan becomes wider above the
Grand Rapid, and the scenery improves. The
banks are high, composed of white clay and
limestone, and their summits are richly clothed
with a variety of firs, poplars, birches, and wil-
lows. The current runs with great rapidity, and
the channel is in many places intricate and
dangerous, from broken ridges of rock jutting
into the stream. We pitched our tents at the

73 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

entrance of Cross Lake, having advanced only
five miles and a half.

Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the
N.E., it is said, for forty miles. We crossed it
at a narrow part, and pulling through several
winding channels, formed by a group of islands,
entered Cedar Lake, which, next to Lake Wini-
peg, is the largest sheet of fresh water we had
hitherto seen. Ducks and geese resort hither in
immense flocks in the spring and autumn. These
birds were now beginning to go off, owing to its
muddy shores having become quite hard through
the nightly frosts. At this place the Aurora
Borealis was extremely brilliant in the night,
its coruscations darting, at times, over the whole
sky, and assuming various prismatic tints, of
which the violet and yellow were predominant.

Afler pulling, on the 14th, seven miles and a
quarter on the lake, a violent wind drove us for
shelter to a small island, or rather a ridge of
rolled stones, thrown up by the frequent storms
which agitate this lake. The weather did not
moderate the whole day, and we were obliged to
pass the night on this exposed spot. The delay,
however, enabled us to obtain some lunar obser-
vations. The wind having subsided, we left our
resting-place the following morning, crossed the
remainder of the lake, and in the afternoon, ar-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 73

rived at Muddy Lake, which is very appro-
priately named, as it consists merely of a few
channels, winding amongst extensive mud banks,
which are overflowed during the spring floods.
We landed at an Indian tent, which contained
two numerous families, amounting to thirty souls.
These poor creatures were badly clothed, and re-
duced to a miserable condition by the ravages of
the hooping-cough and measles. At the time of
our arrival they were busy in preparing a sweat-
ing-house for the sick. This is a remedy which
they consider, with the addition of singing and
drumming, to be the grand specific for all diseases.
Our companions having obtained some geese, in
exchange for rum and tobacco, we proceeded a
few more miles, and encamped on Devil's Drum
Island, having come, during the day, twenty
miles and a half. A second party of Indians
were encamped on an adjoining island, a situa-
tion chosen for the purpose of killing geese and
ducks.

On the 16th we proceeded eighteen miles up
the Saskatchawan. lts banks are low, covered
with willows, and lined with drift timber. The
surrounding country is swampy, and intersected
by the numerous arms of the river. After pass-
ing for twenty or thirty yards through the willow
thicket on the banks of the stream, we entered

74 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

upon an extensive rnarsh, varied only by a dis-
tant line of willows, which marks the course of
a creek or branch of the river. The branch we
navigated to-day is almost five hundred yards
wide. The exhalations from the marshy soil
produced a low fog, although the sky above was
perfectly clear. In the course of the day we
passed an Indian encampment of three tents,
whose inmates appeared to be in a still more
miserable condition than those we saw yesterday.
They had just finished the ceremony of conjura-
tion over some of their sick companions ; and a
dog, which had been recently killed as a sacrifice
to some deity, was hanging to a tree, where it
would be left (I was told) when they moved their
encampment.

We continued our voyage up the river to the
20th with little variation of scenery or incident,
travelling in that time about thirty miles. The
near approach of winter was marked by severe
frosts, which continued all day unless when the
sun chanced to be unusually bright, and the
geese and ducks were observed to take a south-
erly course in large flocks. On the morning of
the 20th we came to a party of Indians, encamped
behind the bank of the river on the borders of a
small marshy lake, for the purpose of killing
water-fowl. Here we were gratified with the

OF THE POL AR SEA. 75

view of a very large tent. lts length was about
forty feet, its breadth eighteen, and its covering
was moose deer leather, with apertures for the
escape of the smoke from the fires which areplaced
at each end; a ledge of wood was placed on the
ground on both sides the whole length of the
tent, within which were the sleeping places, ar-
ranged probably according to families ; and the
drums and other instruments of enchantment were
piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians
there were a great many half-breeds, who led an
Indian life. Governor Williams gave a dram
and a piece of tobacco to each of the males of the
party.

On the morning of the 21 st a heavy fall of
snow took place, which lasted until two in the
afternoon. In the evening we left the Saskat-
chawan, and entered the Little River, one of the
two streams by which Pine Island Lake dis-
charges its waters. We advanced to-day four-
teen miles and a quarter. On the 22d the wea-
ther was extremely cold and stormy, and we had
to contend against a strong head wind. The
spray froze as it feil, and the oars were so loaded
with ice as to be almost unmanageable. The
length of our voyage this day was eleven miles.

The following morning was very cold; we em-
barked at day-light, and pulled across a part of

73 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Pine Island Lake, aboutthree miles and a halfto
Cumberland House. The margin of the lake
was so incrusted with ice, that we had to break
through a considerable space of it to approach
the landing place. When we considered that
this was the effect of only a few days' frost at
the commencement of winter, we were convinced
of the impracticability of advancing further by
water this season, and therefore resolved on ac-
cepting Governor Williams's kind invitation to
remain with him at this post. We immediately
visited Mr. Connolly, the resident partner of the
North-West Company, and presented to him Mr.
Mac Gillivray's circular letter. He assured us that
h� should be most desirous to forward our pro-
gress by every means in his power, and we sub-
sequently had ample proofs of his sincerity and
kindness. The unexpected addition of our party
to the winter residents at this post, rendered an
increase of apartments necessary; and our men
were immediately appointed to complete and ar-
range an unfinished building as speedily as pos-
sible.

November 8.�Some mild weather succeeded
to the severe frosts we had at our arrival; and the
lake had not been entirely frozen before the 6th ;
but this morning the ice was sufficiently firm to
admit of sledges crossing it. The dogs were

OF THE POLAR S�A. 77

harnessed at a very early hour, and the winter
operations commenced by sending for a supply of
fish from Swampy River, where men had been
stationed to collect it, just before the frost set in.
Both men and dogs appeared to enjoy the change;
they started in full glee, and drove rapidly along.
An Indian, who had come to the house on the
preceding evening to request some provision for
his family, whom h� represented to be in a state
of starvation, accompanied them. His party had
been suffering greatly under the epidemie diseases
of the hooping-cough and measles ; and the hun-
ters were stiU in too debilitated a state to go out
and provide them with meat. A supply was
given to him, and the men were directed to bring
his father, an old and faithful hunter, to the
house, that h� might have the comforts of nourish-
ment and warmth. He was brought accordingly,
but these attentions were unavailing as h� died a
few days afterwards. Two days before his death
I was surprised to observe him sitting for nearly
three hours, in a piercingly sharp day, in the
saw-pit, employed in gathering the dust, and
throwing it by handfuls over his body, which was
naked to the waist. As the man was in posses-
sion of his mental faculties, I conceived h� was
performing some devotional act preparatory to his
departure, which h� feit to be approaching; and,

78 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

induced by the novelty of the incident, I went
twice to observe him more closely; but when h�
perceived that h� was noticed, h� immediately
ceased his operation, hung down his head, and
by his demeanour, intimated that h� considered
my appearance an intrusion. The residents at
the fort could give me no information on the sub-
ject, and I could not learn that the Indians in
general observe any particular ceremony on the
approach of death.

November 15.�The sky had been overcast
during the last week; the sun shone forth once
only, and then not sufficiently for the purpose
of obtaining observations. Faint coruscations
of the Aurora Borealis appeared one evening,
but their presence did not in the least affect the
electrometer nor the compass. The ice daily be-
came thicker in the lake, and the frost had now
nearly overpowered the rapid current of the Sas-
katchawan River; indeed, parties of men who
were sent from both the forts to search for the In-
dians, and procure whatever skins and provisions
they might have collected, crossed that stream
this day on the ice. The white partridges made
their first appearance near to the house, which
birds are considered as the infallible harbingers
of severe weather.

Monday, November 22.�The Saskatchawan,

OP THE POLAR SEA. 79

and every other river, were now completely
covered with ice, except a small stream near to
the fort through which the current ran very power-
fully. In the course of the week we removed into
the house our men had been preparing for us
since our arrival. We found it at first extremely
cold notwithstanding a good fire was kept in each
apartment, and we frequently experienced the
extremes of heat and cold on opposite sides of
the body.

November 24.�We this day obtained obser-
vations for the dip of the needie and intensity of
the magnetic force in a spare room. The dip
was 83° 9' 45", and the difference produced by
reversing the face of the instrument 13° 3' 6".
When the needie was faced to the west it hung
nearly perpendicular. The Aurora Borealis was
faintly visible for a short time last evening.
Some Indians arrived in search of provision,
having been totally incapacitated from hunting
by sickness; the poor creatures looked miser-
ably ill, and they represented their distress to
have been extreme. Few recitals are more
affecting than those of their, sufferings during
unfavourable seasons, and in bad situations for
hunting and fishing. Many assurances have
been given me that men and women are yet
living who have been reduced to feed upon the

80 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

bodies of their own family, to prevent actual
starvation; and a shocking case was cited to us
of a woman who had been principal agent in
the destruction of several persons, and amongst
the number her husband and nearest relatives,
in order to support life.

November 28.�The atmosphere had been clear
every day during the last week, about the end of
which snow feil, when the thermometer rose from
20° below to 16° above zero. The Aurora Bo-
realis was twice visible, but faint on both occa-
sions, lts appearance did not affect the electro-
meter, nor could we perceive the compass to be
disturbed.

The men brought supplies of moose meat from
the hunters' tent, which is pitched near the Bas-
quiau Hill, at the distance of forty or fifty miles
from the house, and from whence the greatest
part of the meat is procured. The residents have
to send nearly the same distance for their fish,
and on this service horse-sledges are used. Nets
are daily set in Pine Island Lake which occasion-
ally procure some fine sturgeon, tittameg and
trout, but not more than sufficient to supply the
officers' table.

December 1.�This day was so remarkably
fine, that we procured another set of observations
for the dip of the needie in the open air; the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 81

instrument being placed firmly on a rock, the
results gave 83° 14' 22". The change produeed
by reversing the face of the instrument was
12° 50' 55". ^%

There was a determined thaw during the last
three days, which caused the Saskatchawan
River, and some parts of the lake, to break up,
and rendered the travelling across either of them
dangerous. On this account the absence of
Wilks, one of our men, caused no small anxiety.
He had incautiously undertaken the charge of
conducting a sledge and dogs, in company with
a person, going to Swampy River for fish. On
their return, being unaccustomed to driving, h�
became fatigued, and seated himself on his
sledge, in which situation his companion left him,
presuming that h� would soon rise and hasten
to follow his track. He however returned safe
in the moraing, and reported that, foreseeing
night would set in before h� could get across
the lake, h� prudently retired into the woods
before dark, where h� remained until day-light;
when the men, who had been despatched to look
for him, met him returning to the house, shiver-
ing with cold, h� having been unprovided with
the materials for lighting a fire; which an ex-
perienced voyager never neglects to carry.

We had mild weather until the 20th of De-

VOL. I. G

88 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

cember. On the 13th there had been a decided
thaw, which caused the Saskatchawan, which
had again frozen, to re-open, and the passage
across it was interrupted for two days. We
now received more agreeable accounts from the
Indians, who were recovering strength, and begin-
ning to hunt a little ; but it is generally feared
that their spirits have been so much depressed
by the loss of their children and relatives, that
the season will be far advanced before they can
be roused to any exertion in searching for ani-
mals beyond what may be necessary for their
own support. It is much to be regretted that
these poor men, during their long intercourse
with Europeans, have not been taught how
pernicious is the grief which produces total in-
activity, and that they have not been furnished
with any of the consolations which the Christian
religion never fails to afford. This, however,
could hardly have been expected from persons
who have permitted their own offspring, the half-
casts, to remain in lamentable ignorance on a
subject of such vital importance. It is probable,
however, that an improvement will soon take
place among the latter class, as Governor Wil-
liams proposes to make the children attend a
Sunday school, and has already begun to have
divine service performed at his post.

OF THE POL AR SEA. 83

The conversations which I had with the gentle-
men in charge of these posts, convinced me of
the necessity of proceeding during the winter
into the Athabasca department, the residents of
which are best acquainted with the nature and
resources of the country lying to the north of
the Great Slave Lake ; and from whence only
guides, hunters, and interpreters can be pro-
cured. I had previously written to the partners
of the North West Company in that quarter, re-
questing their assistance in forwarding the Ex-
pedition, and stating what we should require of
them; but, on reviewing the matter, and reflect-
ing upon the accidents that might delay these
letters on the road, I determined on proceeding
to the Athabasca as soon as I possibly could,
and communicated my intention to Governor
Williams and Mr. Connolly, with a request that
I might be furnished, by the middle of January,
with the means of conveyance for three persons,
intending that Mr. Back and Hepburn should
accompany me, whilst Dr. Richardson and Mr.
Hood remained till the spring at Cumberland
House.

After the 20th of December the weather became
cold, the thermometer constantly below Zero.
Christmas-day was particularly stormy ; but the
gale did not prevent the full enjoyment of the

84 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

festivities which are annually given at Cumber-
land House on this day. All the men who had
been despatched to different parts in search of
provision or furs returned to the fort on the
occasion, and were regaled with a substantial
dinner and a dance in the evening.
_18go The new year was ushered in by repeated
Jan. i. discharges of musketry; a ceremony which
has been observed by the men of both the trading
Companies for many years. Our party dined
with Mr. Connolly, and were treated with a
beaver, which we found extremely delicate. In
the evening his men were entertained with a
dance, in which the Canaclians exhibited some
grace and much agility ; arid they contrived to
infuse some portion of their activity and spirits
into the steps of their female companions. The
half-breed women are passionately fond of this
amusement, but a stranger would imagine the
contrary on witnessing their apparent want of
animation. On such occasions they affect a so-
briety of demeanour which I understand to be
the very opposite to their general character.

January 10.�This day I wrote to Governor
Williams and Mr. Connolly, requesting them to
pr�par� two canoes, with crews and appoint-
ments, for the conveyance of Dr. Richardson
and Mr. Hood, with our stores to Chipewyan as

OP THE POLAR SEA. 85

soon as the navigation should open, and had the
satisfaction of receiving from both these gentle-
men renewed assurances of their desire to pro-
mote the objects of the Expedition, I conceived
it to be necessary, previous to my departure, to
make some arrangement respecting the men who
were engaged at Stromness. Only one of them
was disposed to extend his engagement, and
proceed beyond the Athabasca Lake; and, as
I found there was much uncertainty whether the
remaining three could get from the Athabasca to
York Factory sufficiently early to secure them a
passage in the next Hudson's Bay ship, I re-
solved not to ta,ke them forward, unless Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Hood should fail in pro-
curing other men from these establishments next
spring, but to despatch them down to York to
bring up our stores to this place: after which
they might return to the coast in time to secure
their passage in the first ship.

I delivered to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood
a memorandum, containing the arrangements
which had been made with the two Companies,
respecting their being forwarded in the spring,
and some other points of instruction for their
guidance in my absence ; together with direc-
tions to forward the map of our route which had
been finished, since our arrival, by Mr, Hood,

SS JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the drawings and the collections of natural his-
tory, by the first opportunity to York Factory,
for conveyance to England*.

The houses of the two Companies, at this
post are situated close to each other, at the up-
per extremity of a narrow island, which sepa-
rates Pine Island Lake from the Saskatchawan
River, and are about two miles and three quar-
ters distant from the latter, in a northern direc-
tion. They are log-houses, built without much
attention to comfort, surrounded by lofty stock-
ades, and flanked with wooden bastions. The
difficulty of conveying glass into the interior has
precluded the use of that material in theconstrac-
tion of the windows, and its place is poorly sup-
plied by parchment, imperfectly made by the
native women from the skin of the rein-deer.
Should this post, however, continue to be the resi-
dence of Governor Williams, it will b e much
improved in a few years, as h� is devoting his
attention to that point. The land around Cum-
berland House is low, but the soil, from having a
considerable intermixture of limestone, is good,
and capable of producing abundance of corn, and

* As Samuel Wilks, who had accompanied the Expedition from
England, proved to be quite unequal to the fatigue of the journey,
I directed him to be discharged in the spring, and sent to England
by the next ship.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 87

vegetables of every description. Many kinds of
pot-herbs have already been brought to some
perfection, and the potatoes bid fair to equal
those of England. The spontaneous productions
of nature would afford ample nourishment for all
the European animals. Horses feed extremely
well even during the winter, and so would oxen,
if provided with hay, which may be easily done*.
Pigs also improve, but require to be kept warm
in the winter. Hence it appears, that the resi-
dents might with common attention, render them-
selves far less dependant on the Indians for sup-
port, and be relieved from the great anxiety
which they too often suffer when the hunters are
unsuccessful. The neighbourhood of the houses
has been much cleared of wood, from the great
demand for fuel; there is, therefore, little to ad-
mire in the surrounding scenery, especially in
its winter garb ; few animated objects occur to
enliven the sc�ne ; an occasional fox, marten,
rabbit, or wolf, and a few birds, contribute the
only variety. The birds which remairied were

* " The wild buffalo scrapes away the snow with its f eet to get
at the herbage beneath, and the horse, which was introduced by
the Spanish invaders of Mexico, and may be said to have become
naturalized, does the same ; but it is worthy of remark, that the ox
more lately brought from Europe, has not yet acquired an art so
necessary for procuring its ibod."�(Extract from Dr. Richardson's
Journal.)

88 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ravens, magpies, partridges, cross bills, and
woodpeckers. In this universal stillness, the
residents at a post feel little disposed to wander
abroad, except when called forth by their occu-
pations ; and as ours were of a kind best per-
formed in a warm room, we imperceptibly ac-
quired a sedentary habit. In going out, how-
ever, we never suffered the slightest inconveni-
ence from the change of temperature, though the
thermometer, in the open air, stood occasionalJy
thirty degrees below zero.

The ti�be of Indians, who reside in the vicinity,
and frequent these establishments, is that of the
Crees, or Knisteneaux. They were formerly a
powerful and numerous nation, which ranged
over a very extensive country, and were most
successful in their predatory excursions against
their neighbours, particularly the northern In-
dians, and some tribes on the Saskatchawan and
Beaver Rivers ; but they have long ceased to be
held in any fear, and are now, perhaps, the most
harmless and inoffensive of the whole Indian
race. This change is entirely to be attributed
to their intercourse with Europeans ; and the vast
reduction in their numbers occasioned, I fear, in
a considerable degree, by the injudicious intro-
duction amongst them of ardent spirits. They
are so passionatcly fond of this poison, that they

OF THE POLAR SEA. 89

will make any sacrifice to obtain it. They are
esteemed good hunters, and are generally as-
siduous in the occupation. Having laid the bow
and arrow altogether aside, and the use of snares,
except for rabbits and partridges, they depend
entirely on the Europeans for the means of gain-
ing their subsistence, as they require guns, and
a constant supply of powder and shot; so that
these Indians are probably more completely
under the power of the trader than any of the
other tribes. As I only sa w a few straggling
parties of them during short intervals, and under
unfavourable circumstances of sickness and fa-
mine, I am unable to give, from personal obser-
vation, any account of theirmanners and customs;
I must refer the reader, therefore, to Dr. Richard-
son's account of them, which will be found in the
following chapter. That gentleman, during his
longer residence at the post, had many oppor-
tunities of seeing the natives, and made consi-
derable progress in their language.

January 17.�This morning the sporting part
of our society had rather a novel diversion: in-
telligence having been brought that a wolf had
borne away a steel trap, in which h� had been
caught, a party went in search of the marauder,
and took two English buil dogs and a terri�r,
which had been brought into the country this

00 JOURNJEY TO THE SHORES

season. On the first sight of the animal the dogs
became alarmed, and stood barking at a distanee,
and probably would not have ventured to ad-
vance, had they not seen the wolf fall by a shot
from one of the gentlemen; they then, however,
went up, and behaved courageously, and were
enraged by the bites they received. The wolf
soon died of its wounds, and the body was
brought to the house, where a drawing of it was
taken by Mr. Hood, and the skin preserved by
Dr. Richardson. lts general features bore a
strong resemblance to many of the dogs about
the fort, but it was larger and had a more fero-
cious aspect. Mr. Back and I were too much
occupied in preparing for our departure on the
following day to join this excursion.

The position of Cumberland House, by our
observations, is, latitude 53° 56' 40" N., longi-
tude 102° 16' 41" W., by the chronometers :
variations 17° .17' 29" E., dip of the needie,
83° 12' 50". The whole of the travelling dis-
tanee between York Factory and Cumberland
House is about six hundred and ninety miles.

OF THE POLAH S E A. 91

CHAPTER III.

Dr. Richardson's Ilesidence at Cumberland House�His Account of
the Cree Indians.

1S20

January 19. FROM the departure of Messrs. Frank-
lin and Back, on the 19th of January, for Chi-
pewyan, until the opening of the navigation in
the spring, the occurrences connected with the
Expedition were so much in the ordinary routine
of a winter's residence at Fort Cumberland, that
they may be, perhaps, appropriately blended with
the following general but brief account of that
district and its inhabitants.

Cumberland House was originally built by
Hearne, a year or two after his return from the
Copper-mine River, and has ever since been con-
sidered by the Hudson's Bay Company as a post
of considerable importance. Previous to that time,
the natives carried their furs down to the shores of
Hudson's Bay, or disposed of them nearer home
to the French Canadian traders, who visited this
part of the country as early as the year 1697.

The Cumberland House district, extending

92 JOURNEY TO THE SH�11ES

about one hundred and fifty miles from east to
west along the banks of the Saskatchawan, and
about as far froni north to south, comprehends,
on a rough calculation, upwards of twenty thou-
sand square miles, and is frequented at present
by about one hundred and twenty Indian hunters.
Of these a few have several wives, but the ma-
jority have only one ; and, as some are unmar-
ried, we shall not err greatly in considering the
number of married women as only slightly exceed-
ing that of the hunters. The women marry very
young, have a custom of suckling their children
for several years, and are besides exposed con-
stantly to fatigue and often to famine ; hence
they are not prolific, bearing upon an average
not more than four children, of whom two may
attain the age of puberty. Upon these data, the
amount of each family may be stated at five, and
the whole Indian population in the district at five
hundred.

This is but a small population for such an
extent of country, yet their mode of life occa-
sionally subjects them to great privations. The
winter of our residence at Cumberland House
proved extremely severe to the Indians. The
hooping-cough made its appearance amongst
them in the autumn, and was followed by the
measles, which in the course of the winter spread

OF THE POLAR SEA. 03

through the tribe. Many died, aud most of the
survivors were so enfeebled as to be unable to
pursue the necessary avocations of hunting and
fishing. Even those who experienced only a
slight attack, or escaped the sickness altogether,
dispirited by the sc�nes of misery which envi-
roned them, were rendered incapable of aflbrd-
ing relief to their distressed relations, and spent
their time in conjuring and drumming to avert
the pestilence. Those who were able came to
the fort and received relief, but many who had
retired with their families to distant corners, to
pursue their winter hunts, experienced all the
horrors of famine. One evening, early in the
month of January, a poor Indian entered the
North-West Company's House, carrying his only
child in his arms, and followed by his starving
wife. They had been hunting apart from the
other bands, had been unsuccessful, and whilst
in want were seized with the epidemical disease.
An Indian is accustomed to starve, and it is not
easy to elicit from him an account of his suffer-
ings. This poor man's story was very brief; as
soon as the fever abated, h� set out with his wife
for Cumberland House, having been previously
reduced to feed on the bits of skin and offal,
which remained about their encampment. Even
this miserable fare was exhausted, and they

94 JO�RNEY TO THE SHORES

walked several days without eating, yet exerting
themselves far beyond their strength that they
might save the life of the infant. It died almost
within sight of the house. Mr. Connolly, who
was then in charge of the post, received them
with the utmost humanity, and instantly placed
food before them; but no language can describe
the manner in which the miserable father dashed
the morsel from his lips and deplored the loss of
his child. Misery may harden a disposition
naturally bad, but it never fails to soften the
heart of a good man.

The origin of the Crees, to which nation the
Cumberland House Indians belong, is, like that
of the other Aborigines of America, involved in
obscurity; but the researches now making into
the nature and affinities of the languages spoken
by the different Indian tribes, may eventually
throw some light on the subject. Indeed, the
American philologists seem to have succeeded
already in classing the known dialects into three
languageS:� Ist. The Floridean, spoken by the
Creeks, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Cherokees, Pas-
cagoulas, and some other tribes, who inhabit the
southern parts of the United States. 2d. The
Iroquois. spoken by the Mengwe, or Six Nations,
the Wyandots, the Nadowessies, and Asseenee-
poytuck. 3d. The Lenni-lenap�, spoken by a

OF THE POLAR SEA. 95

great family more widely spread than the other
two, and from which, together with a vast number
of other tribes, are sprung our Crees. Mr.
Heckewelder, a Missionary, who resided long
amongst these people, and from whose paper,
(published in the Transactions of the American
Philosophical Society,) the above classification
is taken, states that the Lenap� have a tradition
amongst them, of their ancestors having come
from the westward, and taking possession of the
whole country from the Missouri to the Atlantic,
after driving away or destroying the original
inhabitants of the land, whom they termed Al-
ligewi. In this migration and contest, which
endured for a series of years, the Mengwe, or Iro-
quois, kept pace with them, moving in a parallel
but more northerly line, and finally settling on
the banks of the St. Lawrence, and the great
lakes from whence it flows. The Lenap�, being
more numerous, peopled not only the greater part
of the country at present occupied by the United
States, but also sent detachments to the north-
ward as far as the banks of the River Missis-
sippi and the shores of Hudson's Bay. The
principal of their northern tribes are now known
under the names of Saulteurs or Chippeways,
and Crees; the former inhabiting the «ountry
betwixt Lakes Winipeg and Superior, the latter

96 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

frequenting the shores of Hudson's Bay, from
Moose to Churchill, and the country from thence
as far to the westward as the plains which lie
betwixt the forks of the Saskatchawan.

These Crees, formerly known by the French
Canadian traders under the appellation of Knis-
teneaux, generally designate themselves as
Eithinyoowuc (menj, or, when they wish to
discriminate themselves from the other Indian
nations, as Nathehwy-withinyoowuc (Southern-
men}*.

* Much confusion has arisen from the great variety of narnes,
applied without discrimination to the various tribes of Saulteurs and
Crees. Heckewelder considers the Crees of Moose Factory to be a
branch of that tribe of the Lenap�, which is named Minsi, or Wolf
Tribe. He has been led to form this opinion, from the similarity of
the name given to these people by Monsieur Jeremie, namely, Mon-
sonies; but the truth is, that their real name is Mongsoa-eythi-
nyoowuc, or Moose-deer Indians � hence the name of the factory and
river on which it is built. The name Knisteneaux, Kristeneaux, or
Killisteneaux, was anciently applied to a tribe of Crees, now termed
Maskegons, who inhabit the river Winipeg. This small tribe still
retains the peculiarities of customs and dress, for which it was-
remarkable many years ago, as mentioned by Mr. Henry, in the
interesting account of his journeys in these countries. They are
said to be great rascals. The great body of the Crees were at that
time named Opimmitish Ininiwuc, or Men of the Woods. It would,
however, be an endless task to attempt to determine the precise
people designated by the early French writers. Every small band,
iiaming itself from its hunting grounds, was described as a different
nation, The Chippeways who frequented the Lake of the Woods
were named from a particular act of pillage�Pilliers, or Robbers :
and the name Saulteurs, applied to a principal band that frequented
the Sault St. Marie, has been by degrees extended to the whole tribe.
It is frequeritly pronounced and written Sotoos.

OP THE POLAR SEA. 97

The original character of the Crees must have
been much modified by their long intercourse
with Europeans; hence it is to be understood,
that we confine ourselves in the following sketch
to their present condition, and more particularly
to the Crees of Cumberland House. The moral
character of a hunter is acted upon by the nature
of the land h� inhabits, the abundance or scarcity
of food, and we may add, in the present case, his
means of access to spirituous liquors. In a country
so various in these respects as that inhabited by
the Crees, the causes alluded to must operate
strongly in producing a considerable difference of
character amongst the various hordes. It may
be proper to bear in mind also, that we are about
to draw the character of a peoplewhose only rule
of conduct is public opinion, and to try them by
a morality founded on divine revelation, the only
standard that can be referred to by those who
have been educated in a land to which the bless-
ings of the Gospel have extended.

Bearing these considerations in mind then, we
may state the Crees to be a vain, fickle, impro-
vident, and indolent race, and not very strict in
their adherence to truth, being great boasters ;
but, on the other hand, they strictly regard the
rights of property*, are susceptible of the

* This is, perhaps, true of the Cumberland House Crees alone:
VOL. T. H

98 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

kinder affections, capable of friendship, very hos-
pitable, tolerably kind to their women, and withal
inclined to peace.

Much of the faulty part of their character, no
doubt, originates in their mode of life; accus-
tomed as a hunter to depend greatly on chance
for his subsistence, the Cree takes little thought
ofto-morrow; and the most ofTensive part of his
behaviour�the habit of boasting�has been pro-
bably assumed as a necessary part of his armour,
which operates upon the fears of his enemies.
They are countenanced, however, in this failing,
by the practice of the ancient Greeks, and per-
haps by that of every other nation in its ruder
state. Every Cree fears the medical or conjuring
powers of his neighbour ; but at the same time
exalts his own attainments to the skies. " I am
God-like," is a common expression amongst
them, and they prove their divinity-ship by eat-
ing live coals, and by various tricks of a simi-
lar nature. A medicine bag is an indispensable
part of a hunter's equipment. It is generally
furnished with a little bit of indigo, blue vitriol,
vermilion, or some other showy article ; and is,
when in the hands of a noted conjurer, such an
object of terror to the rest of the tribe, that its

many of the other tribes of Crees are stated by the traders to be
thieves.

OP THE POLAR SEA. 99

possessor is enabled to fatten at his ease upon
the labours of his deluded country men.

A fellow of this description came to Cumber-
land House in the winter of 1819. Notwith-
standing the then miserable state of the Indians,
the rapacity of this wretch had been preying upon
their necessities, and a poor hunter was actually
at the moment pining away under the influence
of his threats. The mighty conjurer, immediate-
ly on his arrival at the House, began to trumpet
forth his power s, boasting, among other things,
that although his hands and feet were tied as se-
curely as possible, yet when placed in a cor-
juring-house, h� would speedily disengage him-
self by the aid of two or three familiar spirits,
who were attendant on his call. He was instant-
ly taken at his word, and that his exertions might
not be without an aim, a capot or great coat was
promised as the reward of his success. A con-
juring-house having been erected in the usual
form, that is, by sticking four willows in the
ground, and tying their tops to a hoop at the
height of six or eight feet, h� was fettered com-
pletely by winding several fathoms of rope round
his body and extremities, and placed in its nar-
row apartment, not exceeding two feet in diame-
ter. A moose skin being then thrown over the
frame, secluded him from our view. He forth-

100 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with began to chant a kind of hymn in a very
monotonous tone. The rest of the Indians, who
seemed in some doubt respecting the powers of
a devil when put in competition with those of a
white man, ranged themselves around, and watch-
ed the result with anxiety. Nothing remarkable
occurred for a long time. The conjurer continued
his song at intervals, and it was occasionally
taken up by those without. In this marnier an
hour and a half elapsed ; but at length our at-
tention, which had begun to flag, was roused by
the violent shaking of the conjuring-house. It
was instantly whispered round the circle, that at
least one devil had crept under the moose-skin.
But it proved to be only the " God-like man"
trembling with cold. He had entered the lists,
stript to the skin, and the thermometer stood very
low that evening. His attempts were continued,
however, with considerable resolution for half an
hour longer, when h� reluctantly gave in. He
had found no difficulty in slipping through the
noose when it was formed by his countrymen;
but, in the present instance, the knot was tied by
Governor Williams, who is an expert sailor.
After this unsuccessful exhibition, his credit sunk
amazingly, and h� took the earliest opportunity
of sneaking away from the fort.

About two years ago a conjurer paid more

OF THE POLAR SEA. 101

dearly for his temerity. In a quarrel with an
Indian h� threw out some obscure threats of
vengeance, which passed unnoticed at the time,
but were afterwards remembered. They met in
the spring at Carlton House, after passing the
winter in different parts of the country, during
which the Indian's child died. The conjurer had
the folly to boast that h� had caused its death,
and the enraged father shot him dead on the spot.
It may be remarked, however, that both these In-
dians were inhabitants of the plains, and had
been taught, by their intercourse with the tur-
bulent Stone Indians, to set but comparatively
little value on the life of a man.

It might be thought that the Crees have bene-
fited by their long intercourse with civilized
nations. That this is not so much the case as it
ought to be, is not entirely their own fault.
They are capable of being, and I believe will-
ing to be, taught; but no pains have hitherto
been taken to inform their minds*, and their
white acquaintances seem in general to find it
easier to descend to the Indian customs, and

* Since these remarks were written the union oftherival com-
panies has enabled the gentlemen who have now the management
of the fur trade, to take some decided steps for the religieus in-
struction and improvement of the natives and half-breed Indians,
which have been more particularly referred to in the introductjon.

102 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

modes of thinking, particularly with respect to
women, than to attempt to raise the Indians to
their's. Indeed such a lamentable want of mo-
rality has been displayed by the white traders
in their contests for the interests of their respec-
tive companies, that it would require a long
series of good conduct to efface from the minds
of the native population the ideas they have
formed of the white character. Notwithstand-
ing the frequent violations of the rights of pro-
perty they have witnessed, and but too often ex-
perienced, in their own persons, these savages,
as they are termed, remain strictly honest.
During their visits to a post, they are suffered to
enter every apartment in the house, without the
least restraint, and although articles of value to
them are scattered about, nothing is ever missed.
They scrupulously avoid moving any thing from
its place, although they are often prompted by
curiosity to examine it. In some cases, indeed,
they carry this principletoa degree ofself-denial
which would hardly be expected. It often hap-
pens that meat, which has been paid for, (if the
poisonous draught it procures them can be con-
sidered as payment,) is left at their lodges until
a convenient opportunity occurs of carrying it
away. They will rather pass several days with-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 1Q3

out eating than touch the meat thus intrusted to
their charge, even when there exists a prospect
of replacing it.

The hospitality of the Crees is unbounded.
They afford a certain asylum to the half-breed
children when deserted by their unnatural white
fathers ; and the infirm, and indeed every indi-
vidual in an encampment, share the provisions
of a successful hunter as long as they last. Fond
too as a Cree is of spirituous liquors, h� is not
happy unless all his neighbours partake with
him. It is not easy, however, to say what share
ostentation may have in the apparent munificence
in the latter article; for when an Indian, by a good
hunt, is enabled to treat the others with a keg of
rum, h� becomes the chief of a night, assumes no
little stateliness of manner, and is treated with de-
ference by those who regale at his expense.
Prompted also by the desire of gaining a name,
they lavish away the articles they purchase at the
trading posts, and are well satisfied if repaid in
praise.

Gaming is not uncommon amongst the Crees
of all the different districts, but it is pursued to
greater lengths by those bands who frequent the
plains, and who, from the ease with which they
obtain food, have abundant leisure. The game
most in use amongst them, termed puckesann, is

104 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

played with the stones of a species ofprmius which,
from this circumstance,they term puc/cesann-meena.
The difficulty lies in guessing the number of
stones which are tossed out of a small wooden
dish, and the hunters will spend whole nights at
the destructive sport, staking their most valuable
articles, powder and shot.

It has been remakred by some writers that the
aboriginal inhabitants of America are defici�nt in
passion for the fair sex. This is by no means
the case with the Crees ; on the contrary, their
practice of seducing each other's wives, proves
the most fertile source of their quarrels. When
the guilty pair are detected, the woman generally
receives a severe beating, but the husband is, for
the most part, afraid to reproach the male culprit
until they get drunk together at the fort; then the
remembrance of the offence is revived, a struggle
ensues, and the affair is terminated by the loss of
a few handfuls of hair. Some husbands, however,
feel more deeply the injury done to their honour,
and seek revenge even in their sober moments.
In such cases it is not uncommon for the ofFended
party to walk with great gravity up to the other,
and deliberately seizing his gun, or some other
article of value, to break it before his face. The
adulterer looks on in silence, afraid to make any
attempt to save his property. In this respect.

OF THE POLAR SEA. 105

indeed, the Indian character seems to difFer from
the European, that an Indian, instead of letting
his anger increase with that of his antagonist,
assumes the utmost coolness, lest h� should push
him to extremities.

Although adultery is sometimes punished
amongst the Crees in the manner above de-
scribed, yet it is no crime, provided the husband
receives a valuable consideration for his wife's
prostitution. Neither is chastity considered as a
virtue in a female before marriage,that is, before
she becomes the exclusive property of one hunter.

The Cree women are not in general treated
harshly by their husbands, and possess consider-
able influence over them. They often eat, and
even get drunk, in consort with the men ; a con-
siderable portion of the labour, however falls to
the lot of the wife. She makes the hut, cooks,
dresses the skins, and for the most part, carries
the heaviest load : but, when she is unable to per-
form her task, the husband does not consider it
beneath his dignity to assist her. In illustration
of this remark, I may quote the case of an Indian
who visited the fort in winter. This poor man's
wife had lost her feet by the frost, and h� was
compelled, not only to hunt, and do all the menial
offices himself, but in winter to drag his wife

106 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with their stock of furniture from one encamp-
ment to another. In the performance of this
duty, as h� could not keep pace with the rest of
the tribe in their movements, h� more than once
nearly perished of hunger.

These Indians, however, capable as they are
of behaving thus kindly, affect in their discourse
to despise the softer sex, and on solemn occasions,
will not suffer them to eat before them or even
come into their presence. In this they are eoun-
tenanced by the white residents, most of whom
have Indian or half-breed wives, but seem afraid
of treating them with the tenderness or attention
due to every female, lest they should themselves
be despised by the Indians. At least, this is the
only reason they assign for their neglect of those
whom they make partners of their beds and
mothers of their children.

Both sexes are fond of, and excessively indul-
gent to, their children, The father never punishes
them, and if the mother, more hasty in her tem-
per, sometimes bestows a blow or two on a
troublesome child, her heart is instantly softened
by the roar which follows, and she mingles her
tears with those that streak the smoky face of her
darling. It may be fairly said, then, that re-
straint or punishment forms no part of the educa-

OP THE POLAR SEA. 107

tion of an Indian child, nor are they early trained-
to that command over their temper which they
exhibit in after years.

The discourse of the parents is never re-
strained by the presence of their children, every
transaction between the sexes being openly talked
of before them.

The Crees having early obtained arms from the
European traders, were enabled to make harass-
ing inroads on the lands of their neighbours,
and are known to have made war excursions as
far to the westward as the Rocky Mountains, and
to the northward as far as M'Kenzie's River ; but
their enemies being now as well armed as them-
selves, the case is much altered.

They shew great fortitude in the endurance of
hunger, and the other evils incident to a hunter's
life; but any unusual accident dispirits them at
once, and they seldom venture to meet their
enemies in open warfare, or to attack them even
by surprise, unless with the advantage of superi-
ority of numbers. Perhaps they are much dete-
riorated in this respect by their intercourse with
Europeans. Their existence at present hangs
upon the supplies of ammunition and clothing
they receive from the traders, and they deeply
feel their dependant situation. But their cha-
racter has been still more debased by the passion

108 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

for spirituous liquors, so assiduously fostered
among them. To obtain the noxious beverage,
they descend to the most humiliating entreaties,
and assume an abjectness of behaviour which
does not seem natural to them, and of which not
a vestige is to be seen in their intercourse with
each other. Their character has sunk among the
neighbouring nations. They are no longer the
warriors who drove before them the inhabitants
of the Saskatchawan and Missinippi. The Cum-
berland House Crees, in particular, have been
long disused to war. Betwixt them and their
ancient enemies, the Slave nations, lie the exten-
sive plains of the Saskatchawan, inhabited by
the powerful Asseeneepoytuck, or Stone Indians,
who having whilst yet a small tribe, entered the
country under the patronage of the Crees, now
render back the protection they received.

The manners and customs of the Crees have,
probably, since their acquaintance with Euro-
peans, undergone a change, at least, equal to that
which has taken place in their moral character ;
and, although we heard of many practices pe-
culiar to them, yet they appeared to be nearly as
much honoured in the breach as the observance.
We shall, however, briefly notice a few of the
most remarkable customs.

When ahuntermarrieshisfirst wife, h� usuallv

OF THE POLAR SEA. 109

takes up his abode in the tent of his father-in-law,
and of course hunts for the family; but when h�
becomes a father, the families are at liberty to
separate, or remain together, as their inclina-
tions prompt them. His second wife is for the
most part the sister of the first, but not necessa-
rily so, for an Indian of another family often
presses his daughter upon a hunter whom h�
knows to be capable of maintaining her well.
The first wife always remains the mistress of the
tent, and assumes an authority over the others,
which is not in every case quietly submitted to.
It may be remarked, that whilst an Indian resides
with his wife's family, it is extremely improper
for his mother-in-law to speak, or even look at
him; and when she has a communication to make,
it is the etiquette that she should turn her back
upon him, and address him only through the
medium of a third person. This singular custom
is not very creditable to the Indians, if it really
had its origin in the cause which they at present
assign for it, namely, that a woman's speaking to
her son-in-law is a sure indication of her ha ving
conceived a criminal affection for him.

It appears also to have been an ancientpractice
for an Indian to avoid eating or sitting down
in the presence of the father-in-law. We re-

110 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ceived no account of the origin of this custom,
and it is now almost obsolete amongst the Cum-
berland House Crees, though still partially ob-
served by those who frequent Carlton.

Tattooing is almost universal with the Crees.
The women are in general content with having
one or two lines drawn from the corners of the
mouth towards the angles of the lower jaW; but
some of the men have their bodies covered with
a great variety of lines and figures. It seems to
be considered by most rather as a proof of cou-
rage than an ornament, the operation being very
painful, and, if the figures are numerous and in-
tricate, lasting several days. The lines on the
face are fornied by dexterously running an awl
under the cuticle, and then drawing a cord, dipt
in charcoal and water, through the canal thus
formed. The punctures on the body are formed
by needies of various sizes set in a frame. A
number of hawk bells attached to this frame serve
by their noise to cover the suppressed groans of
the sufferer, and, probably for the same reason,
the process is accompanied with singing. An in-
delible stain is produced by rubbing a little
finely-powdered willow-charcoal into the punc-
tures. A half-breed, whose arm I amputated,
declared, that tattooing was not only the most

OP THE POJAR SEA. 111

painful operation of the two, but rendered in-
finitely more difficult to bear by its tediousness,
having lasted in his case three days.

A Cree woman, at certain periods, is laid
under considerable restraint. They are far, how-
ever, from carrying matters to the extremities
mentioned by Hearne in his description of the
Chipewyans, or Northern Indians. She lives
apart from her husband also for two months if she
has borne a boy, and for three if she has given
birth to a girl.

Many of the Cree hunters are careful to pre-
vent a woman from partaking of the head of a
moose-deer, lest it should spoil their future hunts;
and for the same reason they avoid bringing it
to a fort, fearing lest the white people should
give the bones to the dogs.

The games or sports of the Crees are various.
One, termed the game of the Mitten, is played
with four balls, three of which are plain, and one
marked. These being hid under as many mit-
tens, the opposite party is required to fix on that
which is marked. He gives or receives a feather
according as h� guesses right or wrong. When
the feathers which are ten in number, have all
passed into one hand, a new division is made;
but when one of the parties obtains possession of
mem thrice, h� seizes on the stakes.

118 JOURNEY TQ THE SHORES

The game of Platter is more intricate, and is
played with the claws of a bear, or some other
animal, marked with various lines and charac-
ters. These dice, which are eight in number,
and cut flat at their large end, are shook together
in a wooden dish, tossed into the air and caught
again. The lines, traced on such claws as hap-
pen to alight on the platter in an erect position,
indicate what number of counters the caster is to
receive from his opponent.

They have, however, a much more manly
amusement termed the Cross, although they do
not engage even in it without depositing consi-
derable stakes. An extensive meadow is chosen
for this sport, and the articles staked are tied to
a post, or deposited in the custody of two old
men. The combatants being stript and painted,
and each provided with a kind of battledore or
racket, in shape resembling the letter P, with
a hand] e about two feet long, and a head loosely
wrought with net-work, so as to form a shallow
bag, range themselves on different sides. A ball
being now tossed up in the middle, each party
endeavours to drive it to their respective goals,
and much dexterity and agility is displayed in
the contest. When a nimble runner gets the ball
in his cross, h� sets off towards the goal with the
utmost speed, and is followed by the rest, who

OF THE POLAR SEA. US

endeavour to jostle him and shake it out; but,
if hard pressed, h� discharges it with a jerk, to
be forwarded by his own party, or bandied back
by their opponents, until the victory is decided
by its passing the goal.

Of the religieus opinions of the Crees, it is
difficult to give a correct account, not only because
they shew a disinclination to enter upon the sub-
ject, but because their ancient traditions are
mingled with the information they have more
recently obtained, by their intercourse with
Europeans.

None of them ventured to describe the original
formation of the world, but they all spoke of an
universal deluge, caused by an attempt of the
fish to drown Wcesack-ootchacht, a kind of demi-
god, with whom they had quarrelled. Having
constructed a raft, h� embarked with his family
and all kinds of birds and beasts. After the
flood had continued for some time, h� ordered
several water-fowl to dive to the bottom ; they
were all drowned : but a musk-rat having been
despatched on the same errand, was more suc-
cessful, and returned with a mouthful of mud,
out of which Wcesack-ootchacht, imitating the
mode in "which the rats construct their houses,
formed a new earth. First, a small conical hill
of mud appeared above the water; by-and-by

VOL. I. I

114 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

its base gradually spreading out, it became an
extensive bank, which the rays of the sun at
length hardened into firm land. Notwithstand-
ing the power that Wcesack-ootchacht here dis-
played, his person is held in very little reverence
by the Indians; and, in return, h� seizes every
opportunity of tormenting them. His conduct is
far from being moral, and his amours, and the
disguises h� assumes in the prosecution of them,
are more various and extraordinary than those
of the Grecian Jupiter himself: but as his ad-
ventures are more reniarkable for their eccen-
tricity than their delicacy, it is better to pass
them over in silence. Before we quit him, how-
ever, we may remark, that h� converses with all
kinds of birds andbeasts in their own languages,
constantly addressing them by the title of bro-
ther, but through an inherent suspicion of his
intentions, they are seldom willing to admit of
his claims of relationship. The Indians make
no sacrifices to him, not even to avert his wrath.
They pay a kind of worship, however, and make
ofFerings to a being, whom they term Kepoochi-
Jeawn.

This deity is represented sometimes by rade
images of the human figure, but more commonly
merely by tying the tops of a few willow bushes
together; and the ofFerings to him consist of

OF THE POLAR SEA. 115

every thing that is valuable to an Indian; yet they
treat him with considerable familiarity, inter-
larding their most solemn speeches with expos-
tulations and threats of neglect, if h� fails in com-
plying with their requests. As most of their
petitions are for plenty of food, they do not trust
entirely to the favour of Kepoochikawn, but en-
deavour, at the same time, to propitiate the ani-
mal, an imaginary representative of the whole
race of larger quadrupeds that are objects of the
chase.

In the month of May, whilst I was at Carlton
House, the Cree hunter, engaged to attend that
post, resolved upon dedicating several articles
to Kepoochikawn, and as I had made some in-
quiries of him respecting their modes of worship,
h� gave me an invitation to be present. The
ceremony took place in a sweating-house, or as
it may be designated from its more important
use, a temple, which was erected for the occasion
by the worshipper's two wives. It was framed
of arched willows, interlaced so as to form a vault
capable of containing ten or twelve men, ranged
closely side by side, and high enough to admit
of their sitting erect. It was very similar in
shape to an oven or the kraal of a Hottentot, and
was closely covered with moose skins, except at
the east end, which was left open for a door.

116 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Near the centre of the building there was a hole
in the ground, which contained ten or twelve red-
hot stones, having a few leaves of the taccohay-
menan, a species ofprunus, strewed around them.
When the women had completed the prepara-
tions, the hunter made his appearance, perfectly
naked, carrying in his hand an image of Kepoo-
chikawn, rudely carved, and about two feet long.
He placed his god at the upper end of the sweat-
ing-house, with his face towards the door, and
proceeded to tie round its neck his ofFerings, con-
sisting of a cotton handkerchief, a looking-glass,
a tin pan, a piece of riband, and a bit of tobacco,
which h� had procured the same day, at the ex-
pense of fifteen or twenty skins. Whilst h� was
thus occupied, several other Crees, who were en-
camped in the neighbourhood, having been in-
formed of what was going on, arrived, and strip-
ping at the door of the temple, entered, and ranged
themselves on each side; the hunter himself
squatted down at the right hand of Kepoochi-
kawn. The atmosphere of the temple having
become so hot that none but zealous worshippers
would venture in, the interpreter and myself sat
down on the threshold, and the two women re-
mained on the outside as attendants.

The hunter, who throughout officiated as high
priest, commenced by making a speech to Ke-

OP TH� POLAR S�A. 117

poochikawn, in which h� requested him to be
propitious, told him of the value of the things
now presented, and cautioned him against ingra-
titude. This oration was delivered in a mono-
tonous tone, and with great rapidity of utterance,
and the speaker retained his squatting posture,
but turned his face to his god. At its conclusion,
the priest began a hymn, of which the burthen
was, " I will walk with God, I will go with the
animal;" and, at the end of each stanza, the rest
joined in an insignificant chorus. He next took
up a calumet, filled with a mixture of tobacco
and bear-berry leaves, and holding its stem by
the middle, in a horizontal position, over the hot
stones, turned it slowly in a circular manner, fol-
lowing the cour se of the sun. lts mouth-piece
being then with much formality, held for a few
seconds to the face of Kepoochikawn, it was next
presented to the earth, having been previously
turned a second time over the hot stones; and
afterwards, with equal ceremony, pointed in suc-
cession to the four quarters of the sky ; then
drawing a few whiffs from the calumet himself, h�
handed it to his left-hand neighbour, by whom it
was gravely passed round the circle; the inter-
preter and myself, who were seated at the door,
were asked to partake in our turn, but requested
to keep the head of the calumet within the thres-

118 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

hold of the sweating-house. When the tobacco
was exhausted by passing several times round,
the hunter made another speech, similar to the
former ; but was, if possible, still more urgent in
his requests. A second hymn followed, and a quan-
tity of water being sprinkled on the hot stones,
the attendants were ordered to close the temple,
which they did, by very carefully covering it up
with moose skins. We had no means of ascer-
taining the temperature of the sweating-house ;
but before it was closed, not only those within,
but also the spectators without, were perspiring
freely. They continued in the vapour bath for
thirty-five minutes, during which time a third
speech was made, and a hymn was sung, and
water occasionally sprinkled on the stones, which
still retained much heat, as was evident from the
hissing noise they made. The coverings were
then thrown off, and the poor half-stewed wor-
shippers exposed freely to the air; but they kept
their squatting postures until a fourth speech was
made, in which the deity was strongly reminded
of the value of the gifts, and exhorted to take an
early opportunity of shewing his gratitude. The
ceremony concluded by the sweaters scampering
down to the river, and plunging into the stream.
It may be remarked, that the door of the temple,
and, ofcourse, the face of the god, was turned

OF THE POLAR SEA. 119

to the rising sun ; and the spectators were de.
sired not to block up entirely the front of the
building, but to leave a lane for the eritrance or
exit of some influence of which they could not
give me a correct description. Several Indians,
who lay on the outside of the sweating-house as
spectators, seemed to regard the proceedings with
very little awe, and were extremely free in the
remarks and jokes they passed upon the condi-
tion of the sweaters, and even of Kepoochikawn
himself. One of them made a remark, that the
shawl would have been much better bestowed
upon himself than upon Kepoochikawn, but the
same fellow afterwards stripped and joined in
the ceremony.

I did not learn that the Indians worship any
other god by a specific name. They often refer
however, to the Keetchee-Maneeto, or Great
Master of Life ; and to an evil spirit, or Maatche-
Maneeto. They also speak of Weettako, a
kind of vampyre or devil, into which those who
have fed on human fiesh are transformed.

Whilst at Carlton, I took an opportunity of
asking a communicative old Indian, of the Black-
foot nation, his opinion of a future state ; h� re-
plied, that they had heard from their fathers, that
the souls of the departed have to scramble with
great labour up the sides of a steep mountain,

180 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

upon attaining the summit of which they are re-
warded with the prospect of an extensive plain,
abounding in all sorts of game, and interspersed
here and there with new tents, pitched in agree-
able situations. Whilst they are absorbed in
the contemplation of this delightful sc�ne, they
are descried by the inhabitants of the happy
land, who, clothed in new skin-dresses, approach
and welcome with every demonstration of kind-
ness those Indians who have led good lives ; but
the bad Indians, who have imbrued their hands
in the blood of their countrymen, are told to re-
turn from whence they came, and without more
ceremony precipitated down the steep sides of
the mountain.

Women, who have been guilty of infanticide,
never reach the mountain -at all, but are com-
pelled to hover round the seats of their crimes,
with branches of trees tied to their legs. The
melancholy sounds, which are heard in the still
summer evenings, and which theignorance of the
white people considers as the screams of the
goat-sucker, are really, according to my inform-
ant, the moanings of these unhappy beings.

The Crees have somewhat similar notions, but
as they inhabit a country widely different from
the mountainous lands of the Blackfoot Indians,
the difficulty of their journey lies in walking along

OF THE POLAR SEA. 121

a slender and slippery tree, laid as a bridge
across a rapid stream of stinking and muddy
water. The night owl is regarded by the Crees
with the same dread that it has been viewed by
other nations. One small species, whicli is
known to them by its melancholy nocturnal hoot-
ings, (for as it never appears in the day, few even
of the hunters have ever seen it,) is particularly
ominous. They call it the cheepai-peethees, or
death bird, and never fail to whistle when they
hear its note. If it does not reply to the whistle
by its hootings, the speedy death of the inquirer
is augured.

When a Cree dies, that part of his property,
which h� has not given away before his death,
is burned with him, and his relations take care
to place near the grave little heaps of fire-wood,
food, pieces of tobacco, and such things as h� is
likely to need in his journey. Similar offerings
are made wheri they revisit the grave, and as
kettles, and other articles of value, are sometimes
offered, they are frequently carried offby pas-
sengers, yet the relations are not displeased, pro-
vided sufficient respect has been shewn to the
dead, by putting some other article, although of
inferior value, in the place of that which has been
taken away.

The Crees are wont to celebrate the returns of

123 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the seasons by religieus festivals, but we are un-
able to describe the ceremonial in use on these
joyous occasions from personal observation. The
following brief notice of a feast, which was given
by an old Cree chief, according to his annual
custom, on the first croaking of the frogs, is drawn
up from the information of one of the guests. A
large oblong tent, or lodge, was prepared for the
important occasion, by the men of the party, none
of the women being suffered to interfere. It
faced the setting sim, and great care was taken
that every thing about it should be as neat and
clean as possible. Three fire-places were raised
within it, at equal distances, and little holes were
dug in the corners to contain the ashes of their
pipes. In a recess, at its upper end, one large image
of Kepoochikawn, and many smaller ones, were
ranged with their faces towards the door. The
food was prepared by the chief's wife, and con-
sisted of marrow-pemmican, berries bolled with
fat, and various other delicacies that had been
preserved for the occasion.

The preparations being completed, and a slave,
whom the chief had taken in war, having warned
the guests to the feast by the mysterious word
peenashewoy, they came, dressed out in their best
garments, and ranged themselves according to
their seniority, the elders seating themselves next

OP THE POLAR SEA. 123

the chief at the upper end, and the young men
near the door.

The chief commenced by addressing his deities
in an appropriate speech, in which h� told them,
that h� had hastened as soon as summer was in-
dicated by the croaking of the frogs, to solicit their
favour for himself and his young men, and hoped
that they would send him a pleasant and plentiful
season. His oration was concluded by an invo-
cation to all the animals in the land, and a signal
being given to the slave at the door, h� invited
them severally by their names to come and par-
take of the feast.

The Cree chief having by this very general
invitation displayed his unbounded hospitality,
next ordered one of the young men to distribute
a mess to each of the guests. This was done in
new dishes of birch bark, and the utmost diligence
was displayed in emptying them, it being consi-
dered extremely improper in a man to leave any
part of that which is placed before him on such
occasions. It is not inconsistent with good man-
ners, however, but rather considered as a piece
of politeness, that a guest who has been too
liberally supplied, should hand the surplus to his
neighbour. When the viands had disappeared,
each filled his calumet and began to smoke with

124, JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

great assiduity, and in the course of the evening
several songs were sung to the responsive sounds
of the drum and seeseequay, their usual accom-
paniraents.

The Cree drum is double-headed, but pos-
sessing very little depth, it strongly resembles a
tambourine in shape. lts want of depth is com-
pensated, however, by its diameter, which fre-
quently exceeds three feet. It is covered with
moose skin parchment, painted with rude figures
of men and beasts, having various fantastic ad-
ditions, and is beat with a stick. The seeseequay
is merely a rattle, formed by enclosing a few
grains of shot in a piece of dried hide. These
two instruments are used in all their religieus
ceremonies, except those which take place in a
sweating-house.

A Cree places great reliance on his drum, and
I cannot adduce a stronger instance than that of
the poor man who is mentioned in a preceding
page, as having lost his only child by famine,
almost within sight of the fort. Notwithstanding
his exhausted state, h� travelled with an enor-
mous drum tied to his back.

Many of the Crees make vows to abstain from
particular kinds of food, either for a specific time,
or for the remainder of their life, esteeming such

OF THE POLAR SEA. 125

abstinence to be a certain means of acquiring
some supernatural powers, pr at least of entailing
upon themselves a succession of good fortune.

One of the wives of the Carlton hunter, of
whom we have already spoken as the worship-
per of Kepoochikawn, made a determination not
to eat of the flesh of the Wawaskeesh, or Ameri-
can stag; but during our abode at that place,
she was induced to feed heartily upon it, through
the intentional deceit of her husband, who told
her that it was buffalo meat. When she had
finished her meal, her husband told her of the
trick, and seemed to enjoy the terror with which
she contemplated the consequences of the invo-
luntary breach of her vow. Vows of this nature
are often made by a Cree before h� joins a war
party, and they sometimes, like the eastern
bonzes, walk for a certain number of days on all
fours, or impose upon themselves some other
penance, equally ridiculous. By such means the
Cree warrior becomes godlike; but unies s h� kills
an enemy before hls return, his newly-acquired
powers are estimated to be productive in future
of some direful consequence to himself.

As we did not witness any of the Cree dances
ourselves, we shall merely mention, that like the
other North American nations, they are accus-
tomed to practise that amusement on meeting with

126 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

strange tribes, before going to war, and on other
solemn occasions.

The habitual intoxication of the Cumberland
House Crees has induced such a disregard of per-
sonal appearance, that they are squalid and dirty
in the extreme; hence a minute description of
their clothing would be by no means interesting.
We shall, therefore, only remark in a general
marmer that the dress of the males consists of a
blanket thrown over the shoulders, a leathern shirt
or jacket, and a piece of cloth tied round the mid-
dle. The women have in addition a long petti-
coat; and both sexes wear a kind of wide hose,
which reaching from the ankle to the middle of the
thigh, are suspended by strings to the girdle.
These hose, or as they are termed, Indian stock-
ings, are commonly ornamented with beads or
ribands, and from their convenience, have been
universally adopted by the white residents, as an
essential part of their winter clothing. Their
shoes, or rather short boots, for they tie round the
ankle, are made of soft dressed moose skins, and
during the winter they wrap several pieces of
blanket round their feet.

They are fond of European articles of dress,
considering it as mean to be dressed entirely in
leather, and the hunters are generally furnished
annually with a capot or great coat, and the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 127

women with shawls, printed calicoes, and other
things very unsuitable to their mode of life, but
which they wear in imitation of the wives of the
traders ; all these articles, however showy they
may be at first, are soon reduced to a very filthy
condition by the Indian custom of greasing the
face and hair with soft fat or marrow, instead of
washing them with water. This practice they
say preserves the skin soft, and protects it from
cold in the winter, and the moschetoes in summer,
but it renders their presence disagreeable to the
olfactory organs of anEuropean, particularly when
they are seated in a close tent and near a hot
fire.

The only peculiarity which we observed, in
their mode of rearing children consists in the use
of a sort of cradle, extremely well adapted to
their mode of life. The infant is placed in the
bag having its lower extremities wrapt up in soft
sphagnum or bog-moss, and may be hung up in
the tent, or to the branch of a tree, without the
least danger of tumbling out; or in a journey
suspended on the mother's back, by a band which
crosses the forehead, so as to leave her hands
perfectly free. It is one of the neatest articles
of furniture they possess. being generally orna-
mented with beads, and bits of scarlet cloth, but

12S JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

it bears a very strong resemblance in its form to
a mummy case.

The sphagnum in which the child is laid, forms
a soft elastic bed, which absorbs moisture very
readily, and affords such a protection from the
cold of a rigorous winter, that its place would be
ill supplied by cloth.

The mothers are careful to collect a sufficient
quantity in autumn for winter use; but when
through accident their stock fails, they have re-
course to the soft down of the typha, or reed mace,
the dust of rotten wood, or even feathers, although
none of these articles are so cleanly, or so easily
changed as the sphagnum.

The above is a brief sketch of such parts of the
manners, character, and customs of the Crees, as
we could collect from personal observation,or from
the information of the most intelligent half-breeds
we met with; and we shall merely add a few re-
marks on the manner in which the trade is con-
ducted at the diff�rent inland posts of the Fur
Companies.

The Standard of exchange in all mercantile
transactions with the natives is a beaver skin, the
relative value of which, as originally established
by the traders, differs considerably from the pre-
sent worth of the articles it represents; but the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 129

Indians are averse to change. Three marten,
eight musk-rat, or a single lynx, or wolverene
skin, are equivalent to one beaver; a silver fox,
white fox, or otter, are reckoned two beavers, and
a black fox, or large black bear, are equal to four;
a mode of reckoning which has very little con-
nexion with the real value of these different furs
in the European market. Neither has any at-
tention been paid to the original cost of European
articles, in fixing the tariffby which they are sold
to the Indians. A coarse butcher's knife is one
skin, a woollen blanket or a fathom of coarse cloth,
eight, and a fowling-piece fifteen. The Indians
receive their principal outfit of clothing and am-
munition on credit in the autumn, to be repaid by
their winter hunts; the amount intrusted to each
of the hunters, varying with their reputations for
industry and skill, from twenty to one hundred and
fifty skins. The Indians are generally anxious
to pay off the debt thus incurred, but their good
intentions are often frustrated by the arts of the
rival traders. Each of the Companies keeps men
constantly employed travelling over the country
during the winter, to collect the furs from the dif-
ferent bands of hunters as fast as they are pro-
cured. The poor Indian endeavours to behave
honestly, and when h� has gathered a few skins
sends notice to the post from whence h� procured

VOL. I. K

130 JO�RNEY TO THE SHORES

his supplies, but if discovered in the mean time
by the opposite party, h� is seldom proof against
the temptation to which h� is exposed. However
firm h� may be iri his denials at first, his resolu-
tions are enfeebled by the sight of a little rum,
and when h� has tasted the intoxicating beverage,
they vanish like smoke, and h� brings forth his
store of furs, which h� has carefully concealed
from the scretinizing eyes of his visitors. This
mode of carrying on the trade not only causes the
amount of furs, collected by either of the two
Companies, to depend more upon the activity of
their agents, the knowledge they possess of the
motions of the Indians, and the quantity of rum
they carry, than upon the liberality of the credits
they give, but is also productive of an increasing
deterioration of the characterof the Indians, and
will probably, ultimately prove destructive to the
fiir trade itself. Indeed the evil has already, in
part, recoiled upon the traders; for the Indians,
long deceived, have become deceivers in their
turn, and not unfrequen�y after having incurred a
heavy debt at one post, move off to another, to
play the same game. In some cases the rival
posts have entered into a mutual agreement, to
trade only with the Indians they have respectively
fitted out.; but such treaties, being seldom rigidly
adhered to,proveafertile subject for disputes, and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 131

the difFerences have been more than once decided
by force of arms. To carry on the contest, the
twoCompanies are obliged to employ a greatmany
servants, whom they maintain often with much
difficulty, and always at a considerable expense*.

There are thirty men belonging to the Hud-
son's Bay Fort at Cumberland, and nearly as
many women and children.

The inhabitants of the North West Company's
house are still more numerous. These large
families are fed during the greatest part of the
year on fish, which are principally procured at
Beaver Lake, about fifty miles distant. The
fishery commencing with the first frosts in autumn,
continues abundant,tillJanuary, and the produce
is dragged over the snow on sledges, each drawn
by three dogs, and carrying about two hundred
and fifty pounds. The journey to and from the
lake occupies five days, and every sledge requires
a driver. About three thousand fish, averaging
three pounds a piece, were caught by the Hudson's
Bay fishermen last season ; in addition to which
a few sturgeon were occasionally caught in Pine
Island Lake; and towards the spring a consider-
able quantity of moose meat was procured from
the Basquiau Hill, sixty or seventy miles distant.
The rest of our winter's provision consisted of

* As the contending¹ parties have united, the evils mentioned in this
and the two preceding- pages, are now, in all probability, at an end.

K 2

132 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

geese, salted in the autumn, and of dried meats
and pemmican, obtained from the provision posts
on the plains of the Saskatchawan. A good many
potatoes are also raised at this post, and a small
supply of tea and sugar is brought from the depot
at York Factory. The provisions obtained from
these various sources were amply sufficient in the
winter of 1819-20; but through improvidence this
post has in former seasons been reduced to great
straits.

Many of the labourers, and a great majority of
the agents and clerks employed by the two Com-
panies, have Indian or half-breed wives, and the
mixed offspring thus produced has become ex-
tremely numerous.

These m�tifs, or as the Canadians term them,
bois-brul�s, are upon the whole a good looking
people, and where the experiment has been made,
have shewn much aptness in learning, and will-
ingness to be taught; they have, however, been
sadly neglected. The example of their fathers
has released them from the restraint imposed by
the Indian opinions of good and bad behaviour;
and generally speaking, no pains have been taken
to fill the void with better principles. Hence it is
not surprising that the males, trained up in a high
opinion of the authority and rights of the Com-
pany to which their fathers belonged, and un-
acquainted with the laws of the civilized world,

OF THE POL AR SEA. 133

should be ready to engage in any measure what-
ever, that they are prompted to believe will forward
the interests of the cause they espouse. Nor that
the girls, taught a certain degree of refmement by
the acquisition of an European language, should
be inflamed by the unrestrained discourse of their
Indian relations, and very early give up all pre-
tensions to chastity. It is, however, but justice
to remark, that there is a very decided difference
in the conduct of the children of the Orkney men
employed by the Hudson's Bay Company and
those of the Canadian voyagers. Some trouble
is occasionally bestowed in teaching the former,
and it is not thrown away; but all the good that
can be said of the latter is, that they are not quite
so licentious as their fathers are.

Many of the half-breeds, both male and female,
are brought up amongst, and intermarry with, the
Indians ; and there are few tents wherein the
paler children of such marriages are not to be
seen. It has been remarked, I do not know with
what truth, that half-breeds shew more personal
courage than the pure Crees *.

* A singular change takes place in the physical constitution of
the Indian females who become inmates of a fort; namely, they bear
children more frequently and longer, but, at the same time, are ren-
dered liable to indurations of the mammse and prolapsus of the
uterus; evils from which they are, in a great measure, exempt
whilst they lead a wandering and laborious life.

134 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The girls at the forts, particularly the daughters
of Canadians, are given in marriage very young;
they are very frequently wives at twelve years of
age, and mothers at fourteen. Nay, more than
one instance came under our observation, of the
master of a post having permitted a voyager to
take to wife a poor child that had scarcely attain-
, ed the age of ten years. The masters of posts
and wintering partners of the Companies deemed
this criminal indulgence to the vices of their ser-
vants, necessary to stimulate them to exertion for
the interest of their respective concerns. Another
practice may also be noticed, as shewing the state
of moral feeling on these subjects amongst the
white residents of the fur countries. It was not
very uncommon, amongst the Canadian voyagers,
for one woman to be common to, and maintained
at the joint expense of, two men ; nor for a voy-
ager to sell his wife, either for a season or alto-
gether, for a sum of money, proportioned to her
beauty and good qualities, but always inferior to
the price of a team of dogs.

The country around Cumberland House is flat
and swampy, and is much intersected by small
lakes. Limestone is found every where under a
thin stratum of soil, and it not unfrequently shows
itself above the surface. It lies in strata generally
horizontal, but in one spot near the fort, dipping

OF THE POLAR SEA. 135

to the northward at an angle of 40°. Some por-
tions of this rock contain very perfect shells.
With respect to the vegetable productions of the
district the populus trepida, or aspen, which thrives
in moist situations, is perhaps the most abundant
tree on the banks of the Saskatchawan, and is
much prized as fire-wood, burning well when cut
green, The populus balsamifera, or taccamahac,
called by the Crees matheh meteos, or ugly poplar,
in allusion to its rough bark and naked stem,
crowned, in an aged state, with a few distorted
branches, is scarcely less plentiful. It is an in-
ferior fire-wood, and does not burn well, unless
when cut in the spring, and dried during the sum-
mer; but it affords a great quantity of potash.
A decoction of its resinous buds has been some-
times used by the Indians with succes s in cases of
snow-blindness, but its application to the inflamed
eye produces much pain. Of pines, the white
spruce is the most common here ; the red and
black spruce, the balsam of Gilead fir, and Bank-
sian pine, also occur frequently. The larch is
found only in swampy spots, and is stunted and
unhealthy. The canoe birch attains a consider-
able size in this latitude, but from the great de-
mand for its wood to make sledges, it has become
rare. The alder abounds on the margin of the
little grassy lakes, so common in the neighbour-

136 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

hood. A decoction of its inner bark is used as
an emetic by the Indians, who also extract frora
it a yellow dye. A great variety of willows occur
on the banks of the streams; and the hazel is met
with sparingly in the woods. The sugar maple,
elm, ash, and the arbor vitce *, termed by the Ca-
nadian voyagers cedar, grow on various parts of
the Saskatchawan; but that river seems to form
their northem boundary. Two kinds of prunus
also grow here, one of whichf, a handsome small
tree, produces a black fruit, having a very astrin-
gent taste, whence the term choke-cherry applied
to it. The Crees call it tawquoy-meena, and
esteem it to be when dried and bruised, a good
addition to pemmican. The other species J is a
less elegant shrub, but is said to bear a bright
red cherry, of a pleasant sweet taste. lts Cree
name is passee-awey-meenan, and it is knownto
occur as far north as Great Slave Lake.

The most esteemed fruit of the country, however,
is the produce of the aroma ovalis. Under the
name of meesasscootoomeena it is a favourite dish
at most of the Indian feasts, and mixed with pem-
mican, it renders that greasy food actually palat-
able. A great variety of currants and gooseberries
are also mentioned by the natives, under the name

* Thuya occidenfalis. f Prunus Virgfiniana.

J Prunus Pensylvanica.

OF THE POL AR SEA. 137

of sappoom-meena, but we only found three species
in the neighbourhood of Cumberland House. The
strawberry, called by the Crees otei-meena, or
heart-berry, is found in abundance, and rasps are
common on the sandy banks of the rivers. The
fruits hitherto mentioned fall in the autumn, but
the following berries remained hanging on the
bushes in the spring, and are considered as much
mellowed by exposure to the colds in winter.
The red whortleberry (vaccinium vitis idea) is
found every where, but is most abundant in rocky
places. It is aptly termed by the Crees weesaw-
gum-meena, sour-berry. The common cranberry
(oxycoccos palustris,) is distinguished from the
preceding by its growing on inoist sphagnous
spots, and is hence called maskcego-meena, swamp-
berry. The American guelder rose, whose fruit
so strongly resembles the cranberry, is also com-
mon. There are two kinds of it, (viburnum
oxycoccos, and edule,} one termed by the natives
peepoon-meena, winter-berry, and the other mong-
soa-meena, moose-berry. There is also a berry of
a bluish white colour, the produce of the white
corael tree, which is named musqua-meena, bear-
berry, because these animals are said to fatten on
it. The dwarf Canadian cornel, bears a corymb of
red berries, which are highly ornamental to the
woods throughout the country, but are not other-

138 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

wise worthy of notice, for they have an insipid
farinaceous taste, and are seldom gathered.

The Crees extract some beautiful colours from
several of their native vegetables. They dye
their porcupine quills a beautiful scarlet, with the
roots of two species of bed-straw, (galium tinc-
torium, and boreale) which they indiscriminately
term sawoyan. The roots, after being carefully
washed, are boiled gently in a clean copper kettle,
and a quantity of the juice of the moose-berry,
strawberry,cranberry, orarcticraspberry, is added
together with a few red tufts of pistils of the larch.
The porcupine quills are plunged into the liquor
before it becomes quite cold, and are soon tinged
of a beautiful scarlet. The process sometimes
fails, and produces only a dirty brown, a circum-
stance which ought probably to be ascribed to the
use of an undue quantity of acid. They dye black
with an ink made of elder bark, and a little bog-
iron-ore, dried and pounded, and they have vari-
ous modes of producing yellow. The deepest
colour is obtained from the dried root of a plant,
which from their description appears to be the
cow-bane (cicuta mrosa.) An inferior colour is
obtained from the bruised buds of the Dutch
myrtle, and they have discovered methods of dye-
ing with various lichens.

The quadrupeds that are hunted for food in

OF THE POLAR SEA. 139

this part of the country, are the moose and the
rein-deer, the former termed by the Crees, mong-
soa, or moosoa, the latter attekh. The buffalo or
bison, (moostoosh,) the red-deer or American-stag,
(wawaskeeshoo,) the apeesee-mongsoos, or jumping
deer, the kinwaithoos, or long-tailed deer, and the
apistatchcekoos, a species of antelope, animals
that frequent the plains above the forks of the
Saskatchawan, are not found in the neighbour-
hood of Cumberland House.

Of fur-bearing animals, various kinds of foxes
(makkeeshewuc,) are found in the district, distin-
guished by the traders under the names of black,
silver, cross, red, and blue foxes. The two former
are considered by the Indians to be the same kind,
varying accidentally in the colour of the pelt.
The black foxes are very rare, and fetch a high
price. The cross and red foxes differ from each
other only in colour, being of the same shape and
size. Their shades of colour are not disposed in
any determinate manner, some individuals ap-
proaching in that respect very nearly to the silver
fox, others exhibiting every link of the chain
down to a nearly uniform deep or orange-yellow,
the distinguishing colour of a pure red fox. It is
reported both by Indians and traders, that all the
varieties have been found in the same litter. The
blue fox is seldom seen here, and is supposed to

140 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

come from the southward. The gray wolf (ma-
haygan,} is common here. In the month of
March the females frequently entice the domestic
dog from the forts, alth�ugh at other seasons a
strong antipathy seemed to sub sist between
them. Some black wolves are occasionally seen.
The black and red varieties of the American bear
(musquah) are also found near Cumberland
House, though not frequently; a black bear often
has red cubs, and vice versd. The grizzly bear,
so much dreaded by the Indians for its strength
and ferocity, inhabits a track of country nearer
the Rocky Mountains. It is extraordinary that
alth�ugh I made inquiries extensively amongst
the Indians, I met with but one who said that h�
had killed a she-bear with young in the womb.

The wolverene, in Cree okeekoohawgees, or
ommeethatsees, is an animal of great strength
and cunning, and is much hated by the hunters,
on account of the mischief it does to their marten-
traps. The Canadian lynx (peesh&w) is a timid
but well-armed animal, which preys upon the
American hare. lts fur is esteemed. The marten
(wapeestan,) is one of the most common furred
animals in the country. The fisher, notwith-
standing its name, is an inhabitant of the land,
living like the common marten principally on
mice. It is the otchcek of the Crees, and the pekan

OF THE POL AR S E A. 141

�f the Canadians. The mink, (atjackash,) has
been often confounded by writers with the fisher.
It is a much smaller animal, inhabits the banks
of rivers, and swims well; its prey is fish. The
otter, (neekeek,) is larger thanthe English species,
and produces a much more valuable fur.

The musk rat (watsuss, or musquash,} is very
abundant in all the small grassy lakes. They
build small conical houses with a mixture of hay
and earth; those which build early raising their
houses on the mud of the marshes, and those
which build later in the season founding their
habitations upon the surface of the ice itself.
The house covers a hole in the ice, which permits
them to go into the water in search of the roots
on which they feed. In severe winters when the
small lakes are frozen to the bottom, and these
animals cannot procure their usual food, they
prey upon each other. In this way great num-
bers are destroyed.

The beaver (amm�sk) furnishes the staple fur
of the country. Many surprising stories have
been told of the sagacity with which this animal
suits the form of its habitation, retreats, and dam,
to local circumstances; and I compared the ac-
count of its marmers, given by Cuvier, in his
R�gne Animal, with the reports of the Indians,
and found them to agree exactly. They have

148 JOUR NE Y TO THE SHORES

been often seen in the act of constructing their
houses in the moon-light nights, and the ob-
servers agree, that the stones, wood, or other
materials, are carried in their teeth, and generally
leaning against the shoulder. When they have
placed it to their mind, they turn round and give
it a smart blow with their flat tail. In the act of
diving they give a similar stroke to the surface
of the water. They keep their provision of wood
under water in front of the house. Their fa-
vourite food is the bark of the aspen, birch, and
willow; they also eat the alder, but seldom touch
any of the pine tribe unless from necessity; they
are fond of the large roots of the nupliar lutea, and
grow fat upon it, but it gives their nesh a strong
rancid taste. In the season of love their call
resembles a groan, that of the male being the
hoarsest, but the voice of the young is exactly
like the cry of a child. They are very playful,
as the following anecdote will shew:�One day
a gentleman, long resident in this country, espied
five young beavers sportirig in the water, leaping
upon the trunk of a tree, pushing one another
off, and playing a thousand interesting tricks.
He approached softly, under cover of the bushes,
and prepared to fire on the unsuspecting crea-
tures, but a nearer approach discovered to him
such a similitude betwixt their gestures and the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 143

infantile caresses of his own children, that h�
threw aside his gun. This gentleman's feelings
are to be envied, but few traders in fur would
have acted so feelingly. The musk rat frequently
inhabits the same lodge with the beaver, and the
otter also thrusts himself in occasionally: the
latter, however, is not always a civil guest, as h�
sometimes devours his host.

These are the animals most interesting in an
economical point of view. The American hare,
and several kinds of grouse and ptarmigan, also
contribute towards the support of the natives;
and the geese, in their periodical flights in the
spring and autumn, likewise prove a valuable re-
source both to the Indians and white residents;
but the principal article of food, after the moose-
deer, is fish; indeed, it forms almost the sole
support of the traders at some of the posts. The
most esteemed fish is the Coregonus albus, the
attihhawmeg of the Crees, and the white-fish of
the Americans. lts usual weight is between
three and four pounds, but it has been known to
reach sixteen or eighteen pounds. Three fish of
the ordinary size is the daily allowance to each
man at the fort, and is considered as equivalent
to two geese, or eight pounds of solid moose-
meat. The fishery for the attihhawmeg lasts the
whole year, but is most productive in the spawn-

144 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ing season, from the middle of September to the
middle of October. The ottonneebees, (Coregonus
Artedi,) closely resembles the last. Three species
of carp, (Catastomus Hudsc 'as, C. Forsteri-
anus, and C. Lesueurii,) are also found abun-
dantly in all the lakes, their Cree names are
namaypeeth, meethquawmaypeeth, and wapawhaw-
keeshew. The occow, or river perch, termed also
horn-fish, piccarel, or dor�, is c�f?�non, but is not
so much esteemed as the attihhawmeg. It attains
the length of twenty inches in these lakes. The
methy is another common fish; it is the gadus
lota, or burbot, of Europe. lts length is about
two feet, its gullet is capacious, and it preys
upon fish large enough to distend its body to
nearly twice its proper size. It is never eaten,
not even by the dogs unless through necessity,
but its liver and roe are considered as delicacies.

The pike is also plentiful, and being readily
caught in the winter time with the hook, is so
much prized on that account by the natives, as
to receive from them the name of eithinyoo-can-
nooshoeoo, or Indian fish. The common trout, or
nammcecous, grows here to an enormous size,
being caught in particular lakes, weighing up-
wards of sixty pounds; thirty pounds is no
uncommon size at Beaver Lake, from whence
Cumberland House is supplied. The Hioden

OF THE POLAR SEA. 145

clodalis, oweepeetcheesees, or gold-eye, is a beau-
tiful small fish, which resembles the trout in its
habits.

One of the largest fish is the mathemegh, cat-
fish, or barbue. It belong^ to the genus silurus.
It is rare, but is highly prwed as food.

The sturgeon (Accipenser ruthenus) is also
taken in the Saskatchawan, and lakes communi-
cating with it, and furnishes an excellent, but
rather rich, article of fcx -

146 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Cumberland House�Mode of Travelling in Winter�Arriva�
at Carlton House�Stone Indians�Visit to a Buffalo Pound�
Goitres�Departure from Carlton House�Isle & la Grosse�
Arriva� at Fort Chipewyan.

1820. THIS day we set out from Cumberland
January is. House for Carlton House; but previously
to detailing the events of the journey, it may be
proper to describe the necessary equipments of a
winter traveller in this region, which I cannot do
better than by extracting the following brief,
but accurate, account of it from Mr. Hood's
Journal:�

" A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of
wood, fastened together at their extremities, and
projected into curves by transver se bars. The
side bars have been so shaped by a frame, and
dried before a fire, that the front part of the shoe
turns up, like the prow of a boat, and the part
behind terminates in an acute angle; the spaces
between the bars are filled up with a fine netting
of leathern thongs, except that part behind the

OF THE POLAR SEA. 147

main bar, which is occupied by the feet; the
netting is there close and strong, and the foot is
attached to the main bar by straps passing round
the heel, but only fixing the toes, so that the heel
rises after each step, and th� tail of the shoe is
dragged on the snow. Between the main bar
and another in front of it, a small space is left,
permitting the toes to descend a little in the act
of raising the heel to make the step forward,
which prevents their extremities from chafing.
The length of a show-shoe is from four to six
feet, and the breadth one foot and a half, or one
foot and three quarters, being adapted to the size
of the wearer. The motion of walking in them
is perfectly natural, for one shoe is level with the
snow, when the edge of the other is passing over
it. It is not easy to use them among bushes,
without frequent overthrows, nor to rise after-
wards without help. Each shoe weighs about
two pounds when unclogged with snow. The
northern Indian snow shoes differ a little from
those of the southern Indians, having a greater
curvature on the outside of each shoe; one ad-
vantage of which is, that when the foot rises the
over-balanced side descends and throws off the
snow. All the superiority of European art has
been unable to improve the native contrivance of
this useful machine.

L 2

148 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

" Sledges are made of two or three flat boards,
curving upwards in front, and fastened together
by trans verse pieces of wood above. They are
so thin that, if heavily laden, they bend with the
inequalities of the surface over which they pass.
The ordinary dog-sledges are eight or ten feet
long, and very narrow, but the lading is secured
to a lacing round the edges. The cariole used
by the traders is merely a covering of leather for
the lower part of the body, affixed to the common
sledge, which is painted and ornamented accord"
ing to the taste of the proprietor. Besides snow
shoes, each individual carries his blanket,hatchet,
steel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire-arms."

The general dress of the winter traveller is a
capot, having a hood to put up under the fur cap
in windy weather, or in the woods, to keep the
snow from his neck; leathern trowsers and Indian
stockings, which are closed at the ankles, round
the upper part of his mocassins, or Indian shoes,
to prevent the snow from getting into them.
Over these h� wears a blanket, or leathern coat,
which is secured by a belt round his waist, to
which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are sus-
pended.

Mr. Back and I were accompanied by the sea-
man, John Hepburn; we were provided with two
carioles and two sledges ; and their drivers and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 14»

dogs were furnished in equal proportions by the
two Companies. Fifteen days' provision so com-
pletely filled the sledges, that it was with diffi-
culty we found room for a small sextant, one suit
of clothes, and three changes of linen, together
with our bedding. Notwithstanding we thus
restricted ourselves, and even loaded the carioles
with part of the luggage, instead of embarking in
them ourselves, we did not set out without con-
siderable grumbling from the voyagers of both
Companies, respecting the overlading of their
dogs. However, we left the matter to be settled
by our friends at the fort, who were more con-
versant with winter travelling than ourselves.
Indeed, the loads appeared to us so great that we
should have been inclined to listen to the com-
plaints of the drivers. The weight usually placed
upon a sledge, drawn by three dogs, cannot, at
the commencement of a journey, be estimated at
less than three hundred pounds, which, however,
suffers a daily diminution from the consumption
of provisions. The sledge itself weighs about
thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen,
or the track well trodden, the rate of travelling is
about two miles and a half an hour including
rests, or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow
is loose, the speed is necessarily much less and
the fatigue greater.

150 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted
the fort, and took leave of our hospitable friend,
Governor Williams, whose kindness and atten-
tion I shall ever remember with gratitude. Dr.
Richardson, Mr. Hood, and Mr. Connolly, accom-
panied us along the Saskatchawan until the snow
became too deep for their walking without snow-
shoes. We then parted from our associates, with
sincere regret at the prospect of a long separa-
tion. Being accompanied by Mr. Mackenzie, of
the Hudson's Bay Company, who was going to
Isle �, la Grosse, with four sledges under his
charge, we formed quite a procession, keeping in
an Indian file, in the track of the man who pre~
ceded the foremost dogs; but, as the snow was
deep, we proceeded slowly on the surface of the
river, which is about three hundred and fifty
yards wide, for the distance of six miles, which
we went to-day. lts alluvial banks and islands
are clothed with willows. At the place of our
encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine
branches to floor " the hut," as the Orkney men
term the place where travellers rest. lts prepa-
ration, however, consists only in clearing away
the snow to the ground, and covering that space
with pine branches, over which the party spread
their blankets and coats, and sleep in warmth
and comfort, by keeping a good fire at their feet,

OP THE POLAR SEA. 151

without any other canopy than the heaven, even
though the thermometer should be far below zero.

The arrival at the place of encampment gives
immediate occupation to every one of the party;
and it is not until the sleeping-place has been
arranged, and a sufficiency of wood collected as
fuel for the night, that the fire is allowed to be
kindled. The dogs alone remain inactive during
this busy sc�ne, being kept harnessed to their
burdens until the men have leisure to unstow the
sledges, and hang upon the trees every species
of provision out of the reach of these rapacious
animals. We had ample experience, before morn-
ing, of the necessity of this precaution, as they
contrived to steal a considerable part of our stores,
almost from underneath Hepburn's head, notwith-
standing their having been well fed at supper.

This evening we found the mercury of our ther-
mometer had sunk into the bulb, and was frozen.
It arose again into the tube on being held to the
fire, but quickly re-descended into the bulb on
being removed into the air; we could not, there-
fore, ascertain by it the temperature of the at-
mosphere, either then or during our journey. The
weather was perfectly clear.

January 19.�We arose this morning after the
enjoyment of a sound and comfortable repose,
and recommenced our journey at sun-rise, but

152 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

made slow progress through the deep snow. The
task of beating the track for the dogs was so
very fatiguing, that each of the men took the lead
in turn, for an hour and a half. The scenery of
the banks of the river improved as we advanced
to-day ; some firs and poplars were intermixed
with the willows. We passed through two creeks,
formed by islands, and encamped on a pleasant
spot on the north shore, having only made six
miles and three quarters actual distance.

The next day we pursued our course along the
river ; the dogs had the greatest difficulty in
dragging their heavy burdens through the snow.
We halted to refresh them at the foot of Stur-
geon River, and obtained the latitude 53° 51' 41"
N, This is a small stream, which issues from a
neighbouring lake. We encamped near to Mus-
quito Point, having walked about nine miles.
The termination of the day's journey was a great
relief to me, who had been suffering during the
greater part of it, in consequence of my feet hav-
ing been galled by the snow-shoes; this, how-
ever, is an evil which few escape on their initia-
tion to winter travelling. It excites no pity from
the more experienced companions of the journey,
who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of
the pain of the sufferer.

Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us

OF THE POLAR SEA. 153

from Cumberland House, and brought some pem-
mican which we had left behind ; a supply which
was very seasonable after our recent loss. The
general occupation of Mr. Isbester during the
winter, is to follow or find out the Indians, and
collect their furs, and his present journey will ap-
pear adventurous to persons accustomed to the
certainty of travelling on a well-known road. He
was going in search of a band of Indians, of whom
no information had been received since last Oc-
tober, and his only guide for finding them was
their promise to hunt in a certain quarter ; but h�
looked at the jaunt with indifference, and calculated
on meeting them in six or seven days, fcr which
time only h� had provision. Few persons in this
country suffer more from want of food than those
occasionally do who are employed on this service.
They are furnished with a sufficiency of provision
to serve until they reach the part where the In-
dians are expected to be ; but it frequently oc-
curs that, on their arrival at the spot, they have
gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of snow has
hidden their track, in which case the voyagers have
to wander about in search of them ; and it often
happens, when they succeed in finding the In-
dians, that they are unprovided with meat. Mr.
Isbester had been placed in this distressing situa-
tion only a few weeks ago, and passed four days

154 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

without either himself or his dogs tasting food.
At length, when h� had determined on killing one
of the dogs to satisfy his hunger, h� happily met
with a beaten track, which led him to some Indian
lodges, where h� obtained a supply of food.

The morning of the 21 st was cold, but pleasant
for travelling. We left Mr. Isbester and his com-
panion, and crossed the peninsula of Musquito
Point, to avoid a detour of several miles which
the river makes. Though we put up at an early
hour, we gained eleven miles this day. Our en-
campment was at the lower extremity of Tobin's
Falls. The snow being less deep on the rough
ice which enclosed this rapid, we proceeded, on
the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual, though at
the expense of great suffering to Mr. Back, my-
self, and Hepburn, all our feet being much galled.
After passing Tobin's Falls, the river expands to
the breadth of five hundred yards, and its banks
are well wooded with pines, poplars, birch, and
willows. Many tracks of moose-deer and wolves
were observed near the encampment.

On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and
there were several snow showers. We saw two
wolves and some foxes cross the river in the
course of the day, and passed many tracks of the
moose and red-deer. Soon after we had encamp-
ed the snow feil heavily, which was an advan-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 155

tage to us after we had retired to rest, by its
affording an additional covering to our blankets.
The next morning, whilst at breakfast, two men
arrived from Carlton on their way to Cumber-
land. Having the benefit of their track, we were,
to our great joy, able to get on at a quick pace
without snow shoes. My only regret was, that
the party proceeded too fast to allow of Mr. Back's
halting occasionally, to note the bearings of the
points, and delineate the course of the river*,
without being left behind. As the provisions
were getting short, I could not, therefore, with
propriety, check the progress by interrupting the
party ; and, indeed, it appeared to me less ne-
cessary, as I understood the river had been care-
fully surveyed. In the afternoon, we had to re-
sum� the incumbrance of the snow-shoes, and to
pass over a rugged part where the ice had been
piled over a collection of stones. The tracks of
animals were very abundant on the river, parti-
cularly near the remains of an old establishment,
called the Lower Nipp�ween.

So much snow had fallen on the night of the
24th, that the track we intended to follow was
completely covered, and our march to-day was
very fatiguing. We passed the remains of two

' This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage
to Carlton in the spring.

156 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

red-deer, lying at the basis of perpendicular cliffs,
from the summits of which they had, probably,
been forced by the wolves. These voracious
animals, who are inferior in speed to the moose
or red-deer, are said frequently to have recourse
to this expedient in places where extensive plains
are bounded by precipitous cliffs. Whilst the
deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in
great numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep
slowly towards the herd so as not to alarm them
much at first, but when they perceive that they
have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting crea-
tures, and cut off their retreat across the plain,
they move more quickly, and with hideous yells
terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the
only open way, which is that towards the preci-
pice; appearing to know, that when the herd is
once at full speed, it is easily driven over the
cliff, the rearmost urging on those that are before.
The wolves then descend at their leisure, and
feast on the mangled carcasses. One of these
ferocious animals passed close to the person who
was beating the track, but did not offer any vio-
lence. We encamped at sunset, after walking
thirteen miles.

On the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the
half-way point, between Cumberland and Carl-
ton. The scenery of the river was less agreeable

OF THE POLAR SEA. 157

beyond this point, as there was a scarcity of
wood. One of our men was despatched after a
red-deer that appeared on the bank. He con-
trived to approach near enough to fire twice,
though without success, before the animal moved
away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen
miles, we put up at the upper Nipp�ween, a de-
serted establishment; and performed the com-
fortable operations of shaving and washing for
the first time since our departure from Cumber-
land, the weather having been hitherto too
severe. We passed an uncomfortable and sleep-
less night, and agreed next morning to encamp
in future, in the open air, as preferable to the
imperfect shelter of a deserted house without
doors or windows.

The morning was extremely cold, but fortu-
nately the wind was light, which prevented our
feeling it severely; experience indeed had taught
us that the sensation of cold depends less upon
the state of temperature, than the force of the
wind. An attempt was made to obtain the lati-
tude, which failed, in consequence of the screw,
that adjusts the telescope of the sextant, being
immoveably fixed, from the moisture upon it
having frozen. The instrument could not be
replaced in its case before the ice was thawed
by the fire in the evening.

108 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

In the course of the day we passed the conflu-
ence of the south branch of the Saskatchawan,
which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the
sources of the northern branch of the Missouri.
At Coles Falls, which commence a short distance
from the branch, we found the surface of the ice
very uneven, and many spots of open water. �*

We passed the ruins of an establishment,
which the traders had been compelled to aban-
don, in consequence of the intractable conduct
and pilfering habits of the Assin�boine or Stone
Indians; and we learned that all the residents at a
post on the south branch, had been cut off by the
same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve
miles to-day. The wolves serenaded us through
the night with a chorus of their agreeable bowl-
ing, but none of them ventured near the encamp-
ment. Mr. Back's repose was disturbed by a
more serious evil: his buffalo robe caught fire,
and the shoes on his feet, being contracted by the
heat, gave him such pain, that h� jumped up in
the cold, and ran into the snow as the only means
of obtaining relief.

On the 28th we had a strong and piercing
wind from N. W. in our faces, and much snow-
drift; we were compelled to walk as quick as we
could, and to keep constantly rubbing the ex-
posed parts of the skin, to prevent their being

OP THE POLAR SEA. 159

frozen, but some of the party suff�red in spite of
every precaution. We descried three red-deer
on the banks of the river, and were about to send
the best marksmen after them, when they espied
the party, and ran away. A supply of meat
would have been very seasonable, as the men's
provision had become scanty, and the dogs were
without food, except a little burnt leather. Owing
to the scarcity of wood, we had to walk until a
late hour, before a good spot for an encampment
could be found, and had then come only eleven
miles. The night was miserably cold ; our tea
froze in the tin pots before we could drink it, and
even a mixture of spirits and water became
quite thick by congelation; yet, after we lay
down to rest, we feit no inconvenience, and
heeded not the wolves, though they were howl-
ing within view.

The 29th was also very cold, until the sun
burst forth, when the travelling became pleasant.
The banks of the river are very scantily supplied
with wood through the part we passed to-day.
A long track on the south shore, called Holms
Plains, is destitute of any thing like a tree, and
the opposite bank has only stunted willows ; but,
after walking sixteen miles, we came to a spot
better wooded, and encamped opposite to a re-

1(50 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

markable place, called by the voyagers " The
NeckofLand."

A short distance below our encampment, on
the peninsula formed by the confluence of the
Net-setting river with the Saskatchawan, there
stands a representation of Kepoochikawn, which
was formerly held in high veneration by the In-
dians, and is still looked upon with some respect.
It is merely a large willow bush, having its tops
bound into a bunch. Many offerings of value
such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and kettles,
used to be made to it, b ut of late its votaries have
been less liberal. It was mentioned to us as a
signal instance of its power, that a sacrilegious
moose-deer having ventured to erop a few of its
tender twigs was found dead at the distance of a
few yards. The bush having now grown old
and stunted is exempted from similar violations.

On the thirtieth we directed our course round
The Neck of Land, which is well clothed with
pines and firs ; though the opposite or western
bank is nearly destitute of wood. This contrast
between the two banks continued until we
reached the commencement of what our compa-
nions called the Barren Grounds, when both the
banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend behind
the southern bank, which afford excellent pas-

OF THE POLAR SEA. 161

turage for the bufFalo, and other grazing animals.
In the evening we saw a herd of the former, but
could not get near to them. After walking fif-
teen miles we encamped. The men's provision
having been entirely expended last night, we
shared our small stock with them. The poor
dogs had been toiling some days on the most
scanty fare ; their rapacity, in consequence, was
unbounded; they forced open a deal box, con-
taining tea, �f c., to get at a small piece of meat
which had been incautiously placed in it.

As soon as daylight permitted, the party com-
menced their march in the expectation of reach-
ing Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not
arrive until noon, although the track was good.
We were received by Mr. Prudens, the gentle-
man in charge of the post, with that friendly at-
tention which Governor Williams's circular was
calculated to ensure at every station ; and were
soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish
of buffalo steaks, which would. have been thought
excellent under any circumstances, but were par-
ticularly relished by us, after our travelling fare
of dried meat and pemmican, though eaten with-
out either bread or vegetables. After this
repast, we had the comfort of changing our¹ tra-
velling dresses, which had been worn for four-
teen days. This was a gratification which can

VOL. I. M

162 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

only be truly estimated by those who may have
been placed under similar circumstances. I was
still in too great pain from swellings in the an-
kles to proceed to La Mont�e, the North-West
Company's establishment, distant about three
miles ; but Mr. Hallet, the gentleman in charge,
came the foi�owing morning, and I presented to
him the circular from Mr. S. Mac Gillivray. He
had already been furnished, however, with a copy
of it from Mr. Connolly, and was quite prepared
to contribute any assistance that we might re-
quire to forward our advance to the Athabasca.

Mr. Back and I having been very desirous to
see some of the Stone Indians, who reside on the
plains in this vicinity, learned with regret that a
large band of them had left the house on thepre-
ceding day ; but our curiosity was amply grati-
fied by the appearance of some individuals, on
the foi�owing and every subsequent day during
our stay.

The looks of these people would have prepos-
sessed me in their favour, but for the assuran-
ces I had received from the gentlemen of the posts,
of their gross and habitual treachery. Their
countenances are affable and pleasing, their eyes
large and expressive, nose aquiline, teeth white
and regular, the forehead bold, the cheek-bones
rather high. Their figure is usually good, above

OF THE POLAR SEA. i�3

the middle size, with slender, but weU propor-
tioned, limbs. Their colour is a light copper,
and they have a profusion of very black hair,
which hangs over the ears, and shades the face.
Their dress, which I think extremely neat and
convenient, consists of a vest and trowsers of
leather fitted to the body; over these a buffalo
robe is tastefully thrown. These dresses are in
general cleaned with white-mud, a sort of marl,
though some use red-earth, a kind of bog-iron-ore;
but this colour neither looks so light, nor forms
such an agreeable contrast as the white with the
black hair of the robe. Their quiver hangs be-
hind them, and in the hand is carried the bow,
with an arrow always ready for attack or defence,
and sometimes they have a gun ; they also carry
a bag containing materials for making a fire,
some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever
valuables they may possess. This bag is neatly
ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus equip-
ped, the Stone Indian bears himself with an air
of perfect independence.

The only articles of European commerce they
require in exchange for the meat they furnish to
the trading post, are tobacco, knives, ammunition,
and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but
more frequently buttons, which they string in
their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will

M 2

164 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

probably have two or three dozen of them hanging
at equal distances on locks of hair, from each side
of the forehead. At the end of these locks, small
coral bells are sometimes attached, which tingle
at every motion of the head, a noise which seems
greatly to delight the wearer; sometimes strings
of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara;
and a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns th�
head.

The Stone Indians steal whatever they can,
particularly horses; these animals they maintain
are common property, sent by the Almighty for
the general use of man, and therefore may be
taken wherever met with ; still they admit of the
right of the owners to watch them, and to prevent
theft if possible. This avowed disposition on
their part calls forth the strictest vigilance at the
different posts ; notwithstanding which the most
daring attacks are often successfully made, some-
times on parties of three or four, but oftener on
individuals. About two years ago a band of
them had the audacity to attempt to take away
some horses which were grazing before the gate
of the N. W. Company's fort; and, after braving
the fire from the few people then at the establish-
ment through the whole day, and returning their
shots occasionally, they actually succeeded in
their enterprise. One man was killed on each

OF THE POLAR SEA. 165

side. They usually strip defenceless persons
whom they meet of all their garments, but
particularly of those which have buttons and
leave them to travel home in that state, however
severe the weather. If resistance be expected,
they not unfrequently murder before they attempt
to rob. The traders, when they travel, invariably
keep some men on guard to prevent surprise,
whilst the others sleep; and often practise the
stratagem of lighting a fire at sunset, which they
leave burning, and move on after dark to a more
distant encampment�yet these precautions do
not always baffle the depredators. Such is the
description of men whom the traders of this river
have constantly to guard against. It must require
a long residence among them, and much expe-
rience of their manners, to overcome the painful
apprehensions their hostility and threats are cal-
culated to excite. Through fear of having their
provision and supplies entirely cut off, the traders
are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences,
even murder, though the delinquents present
themselves with unblushing effrontery almost im-
mediately after the fact, and perhaps boast of
having committed it. They do not, on detection,
consider themselves under any obligation to de-
liver up what they have stolen without receiving
an equivalent,

l�� JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The Stone Indians keep in amity with their
neighbours the Crees from motives of interest;
and the two tribes unite in determined hostility
against the nations dwelling to the westward,
which are generally called Slave Indians�a term
of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes
against whom they have waged successful wars.
The Slave Indians are said greatly to resemble
the Stone Indians, being equally desperate and
daring in their acts of aggression and dishonesty
towards the traders.

These parties go to war almost every summer,
and sometimes muster three or four hundred
horsemen on each side. Their leaders, in ap-
pfoaching the foe, exercise all the caution of the
most skilful generals; and whenever either party
considers that it has gained the best ground, or
finds it can surprise the other, the attack is made.
They advance at once to close quarters, and the
slaughter is consequently great, though the battle
may be short. The prisoners of either sex are
seldom spared, but slain on the spot with wanton
cruelty. The dead are scalped, and h� is con-
sidered the bravest person who bears the greatest
number of scalps from the field. These are after-
wards attached to his war dress, and worn as
proofs of his prowess. The victorious party,
during a certain time, blacken their faces and

OF THE POLAR SEA. 167

every part of their dress in token of joy, and in
that state they often come to the establishment,
if near, to testify their delight by dancing and
singing, bearing all the horrid insignia of war, to
display their individual feats. When in mourn-
ing, they completely cover their dress and hair
with white mud.

The Crees in the vicinity of Carlton House
have the same cast of countenance as those about
Cumberland, but are much superior to them in
appearance, which is to be attributed to their
living in a more abundant country. These men
are more docile, tractable, and industrious, than
the Stone Indians, and bring greater supplies of
provision and furs to the posts. Their genera!
mode of dress resembles that of the Stone In-
dians ; but sometimes they wear cloth leggins,
blankets, and other useful articles, when they can
afford to purchase them. They also decorate their
hair with buttons.

The Crees procure guns from the traders, and
use them in preference to the bow and arrow ;
and from them the Stone Indians often get sup-
plied, either by stealth, gaming, or traffic. Like
the rest of their nation, these Crees are remark-
ably fond of spirits, and would make any sacrifice
to obtain them. I regretted to find the demand
for this pernicious article had greatly increased

168 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

in this department within the few last years.
The following notice of these Indians is extracted
from Dr. Richardson's Journal:

" The Asseenaboine, termed by the Crees As-
seeneepoytuck, or Stone Indians, are a tribe of
Sioux, who speak a dialect of the Iroquois, one
of the great divisions under which the American
philologists have classed the known dialects of
the Aborigines of North America. The Stone
Indians, or, as they name themselves, Eascab,
originally entered this part of the country under
the protection of the Crees, and in concert with
them attacked and drove to the westward the
former inhabitants of the banks of the Saskatcha-
wan. They are still the allies of the Crees, but
have now become more numerous than their
former protectors. They exhibit all the bad qua-
lities ascribed to the Mengwe or Iroquois, the
stock from whence they are sprung. Of their
actual number I could obtain no precise informa-
tion, but it is very great. The Crees who inhabit
the plains, being fur hunters are better known to
the traders.

" They are divided into two distinct bands,
the Ammisk-watche�thinyoowuc or Beaver Hill
Crees, who have about forty tents, and the Sacka-
we�-thinyoowuc, or Thick Wood Crees, who have
thirty-five. The tents average nearly ten in-



		LONDOtf: PRIKTED KY WILMAM CLOWES, Northnmberland-court.



				TO

			THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

		THE EARL BATHURST, K. G., ONE OF atS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES OF STATE,

THE FOLLOWING NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY TO THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA, VNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES OF HIS LORDSHIP, IS BY PEKMISSION, INSCRIBED, WITH OREAT RESPECT AND GRATITl'DE, BY THE AUTHOR.

	Voi,. �.



		GONTENTS OP THE FIRST VOLUME. INTRODUCTION ........ i_v CHAPTER I. Departure from England�Tramactions at Stromness�Enter Da-vis' Straits�Perilous situation on the sliore of Reaolution Island�-Land on the coast of Labrador�Esquimaux of Savage Islands�York Factory�Preparations for the Jour- ney into the Intcrior __...--l CHAPTER II. Passage up Hayes', Steel, and Hill Rivers�Cross Svvampy Lake�Jack River�Knee Lake, and Magnetic Islet�Trout River�Holy Lake�Weepinapannis River�Windy Lake� White Fall Lake and River�Echemamis and Sea Rivers� Play-Green Lakes�Lake Winipeg�River Saskatchawan� Cross, Cedar, and Pine Island Lakes�Cumberland House - 41 CHAPTER III. Dr. Richardson's residence at Cumberland House�His account �f the Cree Indians -......91 CHAPTER IV. Leave Cumberland House�Mode of Travelling in Winter� Arrival at Carlton House�Stone Indians�Visit to a Buf- falo Pound�Goitres�Departure from Carlton Honsef-Tsle a la Crosse�Arrival at Fort Chipevvyan - a 2



viii CONTENTS. Pase CHAPTER V. Transactions at Fort Chipewyan�Arrival of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood�Preparations for our J�urney tp the Nortli- vvard..........221 CHAPTER V[. Mr. Hood's J�urney to the Basquian Hill�Sojourns with an Indian Party�His Journey to Chipewyan - 260 CHAPTER VII. Departure from Chipewyan�Difficulties of the various Navi- gation of the Rivers and Lakes, and of the Portages�Slave Lake and Fort Providence�Scarcity of Provisions, and Discontent of the Canadian Voyagers�Difficulties with re- gard to the Indian Guides�Refusal to proceed�Visit of Observation to the upper part of Copper-Mine River� Return to the Winter-Quarters of Fort Enterprise - - 301

		Dlrections to the Hinder.

	VOL. L I. The CHAR.T shevving¹ the Connected Discoveries of Captains Ross, Parry, and Franklin, to face the Title-page. VOL. II. II. Route from York Factory ~\ III. Isle a la Grosse > To be placeJ at the end. IV. Slave Lake )



			INTRODUCTION.

		His Majesty's Government having deter- mined upon sending an Expedition from the Shores of Hudson's Bay by land, to explore the Northern Coast of America, from the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River to the eastward, I had the honour to be appointed to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the recommendation of the Lords Commis- sioners of the Admiralty; who, at the same time, nominated Doctor John Richardson, a Surgeon in the Royal Navy, Mr. George Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty Midshipmen, to be joined with me in the Expedition. My instructions, in substance, informed me that the main object of the Expedition was that of determining the latitudes and longitudes of the Northern



		X INTRODUCTION. Coast of North America, and the trending of that Coast from the Mouth of the Cop- per-Mine River to the eastern extremity of that Continent; that it was left for me to determine, according to circumstances, whether it might be most advisable to proceed, at once, directly to the northward till I arrived at the sea-coast, and proceed westerly towards the Copper-Mine River; or advance, in the first instance, by the usual route to the Mouth of the Copper- Mine River, and from thence easterly till I should arrive at the eastern extremity of that Continent; that, in the adoption of either of these plans, I was to be guided by the advice and information which I should receive from the wintering servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, who would be instructed by their employers to co-ope- rate cordially in the prosecution of the objects of the Expedition, and who would provide me with the necessary escort of Indians to act as guides, interpreters, game- killers, #c. ; and also with such articles of clothing, ammunition, snow-shoes, presents,



		INTRODUCTION. XI #c., as should be deemed expedient for me to take. That as another principal object of the Expedition was to amend the very defective geography of the northern part of North America, I was to be very care- ful to ascertain correctly the latitude and longitude of every remarkablespot upon our route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, headlands, #c� that might occur along the Northern Shore of North America. That, in proceeding along the coast, I should erect conspicuous marks at places where ships might enter, or to which a boat could be sent; and to deposit information as to the nature of the coast for the use of Lieu- tenant Parry. That, in the Journal of our route, I should register the temperature of the air, at least three times in every twenty- four hours; together with the state of the wind and weather, and any other meteoro- logical phenomenon. That I should not neglect any opportunity of observing and noting down the dip and variation of the magnetic needie, and the intensity of the magnetic force; and should take particular



		Xll INTRODUCTION. notice whether any, and what kind or degree of, influence the Aurora Borealis might ap- pear to exert on the magnetic needie; and to notice whether that phen�menon was attended with any noise; and to make any other observations that might be likely to tend to the further developement of its cause, and the laws by which it is governed. Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist me in all the observations above-mentioned, and to make drawings of the land, of the natives, and of the various objects of natura! history; and, particularly, of such as Dr. Richardson, who, to his professional duties, was to add that of naturalist, might con- sider to be most curious and interesting. I was instructed, on my arrival at, or near, the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River, to make every inquiry as to the situation of the spot from whence native copper had been brought down by the Indians to the Hudson's Bay establishment, and to visit and explore the place in question; in order that Dr. Richardson might be enabled to



		XIV INTRODUCTION. and agents of that Company, resident on our line of route. A short time before I left London I had the pleasure and advantage of an interview with the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who was one of the two persons who had visited the coast we were to explore. He a�brded me, in the most open and kind manner, much valuable information and advice. The provisions, instruments, and other articles, of which I had furnished a list, by direction of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, were embarked on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship Prince of Wales, appointed by the committee to convey the Expedition to York Factory, their principal establishment in Hudson's Bay. It will be seen, in the course of the Nar- rative how much reason I had to be satisfied with, and how great my obligations are to, all the Gentlemen who were associated with me in the Expedition, whose kindness, good conduct, and cordial co-operation, have made an impression which can never



		1NTRODUCTION. XV be effaced from my mind. The unfortunate death of Mr. Hood is the only drawback which I feel from the otherwise unalloyed pleasure I derived from reflecting on that cordial unanimity which at all times pre- vailed among us in the days of sunshine, and in those of " sickness and sorrow." To Dr. Richardson, in. particular, the exclusive merit is due of whatever collec- tions and observations have been made in the department of Natural History; and I am indebted to him in no small degree for his friendly advice and assistance in the preparation of the present narrative. The charts and drawings were made by Lieutenant Back, and the late Lieutenant Hood. Both these gentlemen cheerfully and ably assisted me in making the ob- servations and in the da�y conduct of the Expedition. The observations made by Mr. Hood, on the various phenomena presented by the Aurora Borealis, will, it is presumed, present to the reader some new facts connected with this meteor. Mr. Given in the Appendix to the Quarto Edition.



		XVI INTRODUCTION. Back was mostly prevented from turning his attention to objects of science by the many severe duties which were required of him, and which obliged himto travel almost constantly every winter that we passed in America; to his personal exertions, indeed, is mainly to be attributed our final safety. And here I must be permitted to pay the tribute, which is due to the fidelity, exertion, and uniform good conduct in the most trying situations, of John Hepburn, an English seaman, and our only attendant, to whom in the latter part of our journey we owe, under Divine Providence, the preser- vation of the lives of some of the party. I ought, perhaps, to crave the reader's indulgence towards the defective style of this work, which I trust will not be refused when it is considered that mine has been a life of constant employment in my profes- sion from a very early age. I have been prompted to venture upon the task solely by an imperious sense of duty, when called upon to undertake it. In the ensuing Narrative the notices of



		INTRODUCTION. XV11 the moral condition of the Indians as in- fluenced by the conduct of the traders to- wards them, refer entirely to the state in which it existed during our progress through the country; but lest I should have been mistaken respecting the views of the Hud- son's Bay Company on these points, I gladly embrace the opportunity which a Second Edition afFord s me of stating that the junction of the two Companies has enabled the Directors to put in practice the improvements which I have reason to believe they have long contemplated. They have provided for religieus instruction by the appointment of two clergymen of the established church, under whose direction school-masters and mistresses are to be placed at such stations as afFord the means of support for the establishment of schools. The ofFspring of the voyagers and labourers are to be educated chiefly at the expense of the Company; and such of the Indian children as their parents may wish to send to these schools, are to be instructed, clothed, and maintained at the expense of



		XVlll INTRODUCTION. the Church Missionary Society, which has already allotted a considerable sum for these purposes, and it has also sent out teachers who are to act under the super- intendence of the Rev. Mr. West, the prin- cipal chaplain of the Company. We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman at York Factory, and witnessed with peculiar delight the great benefit which had already marked his zealous and judicious conduct. Many of the traders, and of the servants of the Company, have been induced to marry the women with whom they had cohabited; a material step towards the improvement of the females in that country. Mr. West, under the sanction of the Directors, has also promoted a subscription for the distribution of the Bible in every part of the country where the Cornpany's Fur Trade has extended, and which has met with very general support from the resident chief factors, traders, and clerks. The Directors of the Company are con- tinuing to reduce the distribution of spirits



		INTRODUCTION. XIX gradually among the Indians, as well as thefr own servants, with a view to the entire disuse of them as soon as this most desirable object can be accomplished. They have likewise issued orders for the cultiva- tion of the ground at each of the posts, by which means the residents will be far less exposed to famine whenever through the scarcity of animals, the sickness of the Indians, or any other cause, their supply of meat may fail. It is to be hoped that intentions, so dear to every humane and pious mind, will, through the blessing of God, meet with the utmost success.



		JOUENEY TO THE SHORES

			THE POLAR SEA.

	CHAPTEE I. Departure from Eng-land � Transactions at Stromness � Enter Davis' Straits � Perilous Situation on the Shore of Resolution Island � Land on the Coast of Labrador � Esquimaux of Savage Islands � York Factory � Preparations for the Journey into the Interior.

May.' ON Sunday, the 23d of May, the whole of our party embarked at Gravesend on board the ship Prince of Wales, belonging to the Hud- son's Bay Company, just as she was in the act of getting under weigh, with her consorts the Ed- dystone and Wear. The wind being unfavour- able, on the ebb tide being finished, the vessels were again anchored ; but they weighed in the night, and beat down as far as the Warp, where they were detained two days by a strong east- erly wind. Having learned from some of the passengers, who were the trading Officers of the Company, that the arrival of the ships at either of the esta- VOL. I. B



		2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES blishments in Hudson's Bay, gives Ml occupation to all the boatmen in their service, who are re- quired to convey the necessary stores to the dif- ferent posts in the interior; that it was very pro- bable a sufficient number of men might not be procured from this indispensable duty; and, con- sidering that any delay at York Factory would materially retard our future operations, I wrote to the Under Secretary of State, requesting his permission to provide a few well-qualified steers- men and bowmen at Stromness, to assist our proceedings in the former part of our journey into the interior. May 30.�The easterly wind, which had re- tarded the ship's progress so much, that we had only reached Hollesly Bay after a week's beating about, changed to W.S.W. soon after that an- chorage had been gained. The vessels instantly weighed, and, by carrying all sail, arrived in Yarmouth Roads at seven P.M.; the pilots were landed, and our course was continued through the anchorage. At midnight, the wind became light and variable, and gradually drew round to the N.W.; and, as the sky indicated unsettled wea- ther, and the wind blew from an unfavourable quarter fbr ships upon that coast, the commander bore up again for Yarmouth, and anchored at eight A.M.



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 3 This return afforded us, at least, the oppor- tunity of comparing the longitude of Yarmouth church, as shewn by our chronometers, with its position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigono- metrical Survey ; and, it was satisfactory to find, from the small difFerence in their results, that the chronometers had not experienced any alteration in their rates, in consequence of their being changed from an horizontal position in a room, to that of being carried in the pocket. An untoward circumstance, while at this an- chorage, cast a damp on our party at this early period of the voyage. Emboldened by the de- cided appearance of the N. W. sky, several of our officers and passengers ventured on shore for a few hours; but, we had not been long in the town before the wind changed suddenly to S.E., which caused instant motion in the large fleet collected at this anchorage. The commander of our ship intimated his intention of proceeding to sea, by firing guns; and the passengers hastened to embark. Mr. Back, however, had unfortu- nately gone upon some business to a house two or three miles distant from Yarmouth, along the line of the coast; from whence h� expected to be able to observe the first symptoms of moving, which the vessels might make. By some acci- dent, however, h� did not make his appearance B2



		4 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES before the captain was obliged to make sail, that h� might get the ships through the intricate pas- sage of the Cockle Gat before it was dark. For- tunately, through the kindness of Lieutenant Hewit, of the Protector, I was enabled to convey a note to our missing companion, desiring him to proceed immediately by the coach to the Pent- land Firth, and from thence across the passage to Stromness, which appeared to be the only way of proceeding by which h� could rejoin the party. June 3.�The wind continu ing favourable after leaving Yarmouth, about nine this morning we passed the rugged and bold projecting rock, termed Johnny Groat's house, and soon after- wards Duncansby Head, and then entered the Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the mam shore of Scotland, and steered the ship in safety between the different islands, to the outer anchor- age at Stromness, though the atmosphere was too dense for distinguishing any of the objects on the land. Almost immediately after the ship had anchored, the wind changed to N.W., the rain ceased, and a sight was then first obtained of the neighbouring islands, and of the town of Stromness, the latter of which, from this point of view, and at this distance, presented a pleasing appearance. , Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson's Bay



		OF THE POL AR SEA. & Company at this place, undertook to communi- cate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the dif- ferent parishes, by a notice on the church-door, which h� said was the surest and most direct channel for the conveyance of information to the lower classes in these islands, as they invariably attend divine service there every Sunday. He informed me that the kind of men we were in want of would be difficult to procure, on account of the very increased demand for boatmen for the herring fishery, which had recently been esta- blished on the shores of these islands ; that last year, sixty boats and four hundred men only were employed in this service, whereas now there were three hundred boats and twelve hundred men engaged; and that owing to this unexpected addition to the fishery, h� had been unable to provide the number of persons required for the service of the Hudson's Bay Company. This was unpleasant information, as it increased the apprehension of our being detained at York Fac- tory the whole winter, if boatmen were not taken from hence. I could not therefore hesitate in re- questing Mr. Geddes to engage eight or ten men well adapted for our service, on such terms as h� could procure them, though the Secretary of State's permission had not yet reached me. Next to a supply of boatmen, our attention



		O JOURNEY TO THE SHORES was directed towards the procuring of a house conveniently situated for trying the Instruments, and examining the rates of the chronometers. Mr. Geddes kindly ofFered one of his, which, though in an unfinished state, was readily ac- cepted, being well situated for our purpose, as it was placedon an eminence, had a southern aspect, and was at a sufficient distance from the town to secure us from frequent interruption. Another advantage was its proximity to the Manse, the residence of the Rev. Mr. Clouston, the worthy and highly respected minister of Stromness; whose kind hospitality and the polite attention of his family, the party experienced almost daily during their stay. For three days the weather was unsettled, and few observations could be made, except for the dip of the needie, which was ascertained to be 74° 37' 48", on which occasion a difference of eight degrees and a half was perceived between the observations, when the face of the instrument was changed from the east to the west, the amount being the greatest when it was placed with the face to the west. But, on the 8th, a westerly wind caused a cloudless sky, which enabled us to place the transit instrument in the meridian, and to ascertain the variation of the eompass, to be 27° 50' west. The sky becoming



		S JQURNEY TO THE SHORES netic force, but the wind blew too strong fof procuring the observation to any degree of ao curacy. The fineness of the following day induced us to set up the different instruments for examina- tion, and to try how nearly the observations made by each of them would agree; but a squall passed over just before noon, accornpanied by heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable oppor- tunity was entirely lost. In the intervals be- tween the observations, and at every opportunity, my companions were occupied in those pursuits to which their attention had been more particu- larly directe d in my instructions. Whilst Dr. Richardson was collecting and examining the various specimens of marine plants, of which these islands furnish an abundant and diversified supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and sketches of the surrounding scenery, which is extremely picturesque in many parts, and wants only the addition of trees to make it beautiful. The huls present the bold character of rugged sterility, whilst the valleys, at this season, are clothed with luxuriant verdure. It was not tillthe 14th, that, by appointment, the boatmen were to assemble at the house of Mr. Geddes, to engage to accompany the Expe- dition. Several persons collected, but to my



		OP THE POLAR S�A. 9 great mortification, I found they were all so strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension, either that great danger would attend the service, or that we should carry them further than they would agree to go, that not a single man would engage with us ; some of them, however, said they would consider the subject, and give me an answer on the following day. This indecisive conduct was extremely annoying to me, espe- cially as the next evening was fixed for the departure of the ships. At the appointed time on the following morn- ing, four men only presented themselves, and these, after much hesitation, engaged to accom- pany the Expedition to Fort Chipewyan, if they should be required so far. The bowmen and steersmen were to receive forty pounds' wages annually, and the middle men thirty-five pounds. They stipulated to be sent back to the Orkney Islands, free of expense, and to receive their pay until the time of arrival. Only these few men could be procured, although our requisition had been sent to almost every island, even as far as the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused with the extreme caution these men used before they would sign the agreement; they minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked narrowly into the



		10 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to the prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the northern mariners forms a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless marnier in which an English seaman enters upon any enterprise, however hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring to know where h� is going, or what h� is going about. The brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society, and bound to their settlement at Nain, on the coast of Labrador, was lying at anchor. With the view of collecting some Esqui- maux words and sentences, or gaining any infor- mation respecting the manners and habits of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit. We found the passengers, who were going out as Missionaries, extremely disposed to communicate; but as they only spoke the Ger- man and Esquimaux languages, of which we were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily muchconfined: by the aid, however, of an Esqui- maux and German Dictionary, some few words were collected, which we considered might be useful. There were on board a very interesting girl, and a young man, who were natives of Disco, in Old Greenland; both of them had fair com- plexions, rather handsome features, and a lively manner; the former was going to be married to



		OF THE POLAR SEA. Il a resident Missionary, and the latter to officiate in that character. The commander of the vessel gave me a translation of the Gospel of St. John in the Esquimaux language, printed by the Mora- vian Society in London. June 16.�The wind being unfavourable for sailing I went on shore with Dr. Richardson,and took several lunar observations at the place of our former residence. The result obtained was, latitude 58° 56' 56" N., longitude 3° 17' 55" W., variation 27° 50' W.; dip of the magnetic needie, 74° 33' 20". In the afternoon the wind changed in a squall some points towards the north, and the Prince of Wales made the preparatory signal for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an hour too early for the tide ; as soon as this served we entered into the passage between Hoy and Pomona, and had to beat through against a very heavy swell, which the meeting of a weather tide and a strong breeze had occasioned. Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore, and on this side also the tide appeared to run with the greatest strength. On clearing the outward projecting points of Hoy and Pomona, we entered at once into the Atlantic, and com- menced our voyage to Hudson's Bay�having the Eddystone, Wear, and Harmony Missionary brig, in company.



		12 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES The comparisons of the chronometers this day indicated that Arnold's NOS. 2148 and 2147, had slightly changed their rates since they had been brought on board ; fortunately the rate of the for- mer seems to have increased nearly in the same ratio as the other has lost, and the mean longi- tude will not be materially affected. Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic, I issued a general memorandum for the guidance of the officers, during the prosecution of the ser- vice on which we we re engaged, and communi- cated to them the several points of information that were expected from us by my instructions. I also furnished them with copies of the signals which had been agreed upon between Lieutenant Parry and myself, to be used in the event of our reaching the northern coast of America, and fall- ing in with each other. At the end of the month of June, our progress was found to have been extremely slow, owing to a determined N. W. wind and much sea. We had numerous birds hovering round the ship; princi- pally fulmars (procellaria glacialis,) and shear- waters, (procellaria puffinus,} and not unfrequently saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which the Greenland seamen term finners from their large dorsal fin. Some porpoises occasionally appeared, and whenever they did, the crew were



		OF THE POLAR SEA. 13 sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy change in the wind, which had been so vexatiously contrary, but they were disappointed in every in- stance. Thursday, July l.�The month of July set in more favourably; and, aided by fresh breezes, we advanced rapidly to the westward, attended daily by numerous fulmars and shearwaters. The Missionary brig had parted company on the 22d of June. We passed directly over that part of the ocean where the " Sunken Land of Buss" is laid down in the old, and continued in the Ad- miralty charts. Mr. Bell, the commander of the Eddystone, informed me, that the pilot who brought his ship down the Thames, told him that h� had gained soundings in twelve feet some- where hereabout; and I am rather inclined to attribute the very unusual and cross sea we had in this neighbourhood, to the existence of a bank, than to the effect of a gale of wind which we had just before experienced; and I cannot but regret that the commander of the ship did not try for soundings at frequent intervals, By the 25th July we had opened the entrance of Davis' Straits, and in the afternoon spoke the Andrew Marvell, bound to England with a cargo of fourteen fish. The master informed us that the ice had been heavier this season in Davis'



		14 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES Straits than h� had ever recollected, and that it lay particularly close to the westward, being connected with the shore to the northward of Resolution Island, and extending from thence within a short distance of the Greenland coast; that whales had been abundant, but the ice so ex- tremely cross, that few could be killed. His ship, as well as several others, had suffered material injury, and two vessels had been entirely crushed between vast masses of ice in latitude 74° 40' N., but the crews were saved. We inquired anxiously, but in vain, for intelligence respecting Lieute- nant Parry, and the ships under his command; but as h� mentioned that the wind had been blowing strong from the northward for some time, which would, probably, have cleared Baf- fin's Bay of ice, we were disposed to hope fa- vourably of his progress. The clouds assumed so much the appearance of icebergs this evening, as to deceive most of the passengers and crew ; but their imaginations had been excited by the intelligence we had re- ceived from the Andrew Marvell, that she had only parted from a cluster of them two days pre- vious to our meeting. On the 27th, being in latitude 57° 44' 21" N., longitude 47° 31' 14" W., and the weather calm, we tried for soundings, but did not reach the



		OP THE POLAR SEA. 15 bottom. The register thermometer was attached to the line just above the lead, and is supposed to have descended six hundred and fifty fathoms. A well-corked bottle was also fastened to the line, two hundred fathoms above the lead, and went down four hundred and fifty fathoms. The change in temperature, shewn by the register thermometer during the descent, was from 52° to 40.5'; and it stood at the latter point, when taken out of the tin case. The temperature of the water brought up in the bottle was 41°, being half a degree higher at four hundred and fifty than at six hundred and fifty fathoms, and four degrees colder than the water at the surface, which was then at 45°, whilst that of the air was 46°. This experiment in shewing the water to be colder at a great depth than at the surface, and in proportion to the increase of the descent, coincides with the observations of Captain Ross and Lieutenant Parry, on their late voyage to these seas, but is contrary to the results obtained by Captain Buchan and myself, on our recent voyage to the north, between Spitzbergen and Greenland, in which sea we invariably found the water brought from any great depth to be warmer than that at the surface. On the 28th we tacked, to avoid an extensive stream of sailing ice. The temperature of the



		IC JOURNEY TO THE SHORES water feil to 39.5°, when we were near it, but was at 41°, when at the distance of half a mile. The thermometer in the air remained steadily at 40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so decidedly indicated by the decrease of the tem- perature of either the air or water, as I have before witnessed, which was probably owing to the recent arrival of the stream at this point, and its passing at too quick a rate for the effectual dif- fusion of its chilling influence beyond a shoi distance. Still the decrease in both cases was sufficient to have given timely warning for a ship's performing any evolution that would have prevented the coming in contact with it, had the thickness of the weather precluded a distant view of the danger. The approach to ice would b e more evideritly pointed out in the Atlantic, or wherever the sur- face is not so continually chilled by the passing and the melting of ice as in this sea ; and I should strongly recommend a strict hourly attention to the thermometrical state of the water at the sur- face, in all parts where ships are exposed to the dangerous concussion of sailing icebergs, as a principal means of security. The following day our ship came near another stream of ice, and the approach to it was indi- cated by a decrease of the temperature of the



		OP THE POLAE SEA. 17 water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small pirie-tree was picked up much shattered by the ice. In the afternoon of the 30th, a very dense fog came on; and, about six P.M., when sailing before a fresh breeze, we were suddenly involved in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable difficulty was experienced in steering through the narrow channels between the different masses in this foggy weather, and the ship received several severe blows. The water, as usual in the centre of the stream, was quite smooth, but we heard the waves beating violently against the outer edge of the ice. There was some earthy matter on several of the pieces, and the whole body bore the appearance of re- cent separation from the land. In the space of two hours we again got into the open sea, but had left our two consorts far behind; they followed our track by the guns we discharged. The temperature of the surfaee water was 35° when amongst the ice, 38° when just clear of it, and 41.5° at two miles distant. On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58' N., longitude 59° 53' W., we first feil in with large icebergs; and in the evening were encom- passed by several of considerable magnitude, which obliged us to tack the ship in order to prevent our getting entangled amongst them. VOL. I. C